In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 255 km through southern Basilicata: from Monte Sirino near Lagonegro to the steep Tyrrhenian coast of Maratea, through the Lao valley to the walls of the Pollino with its ancient Bosnian pines, and on via Latronico into the Val d’Agri to Moliterno.
The spirit of the route
Basilicata has only a good thirty kilometres of Tyrrhenian coast, and they are the most beautiful. At Maratea wooded mountains drop steeply into the sea, bays alternate with rocks, and above it all stands a white Christ on Monte San Biagio. Inland it turns quiet: Pollino National Park, the largest in Italy, carries on its ridges the Bosnian pine, whose ancestors survived the Ice Age, and some trees are centuries old. In the valleys the Lao rushes, where people go white-water rafting, and on the slopes villages such as Morano Calabro cling in tiers like a nativity scene. From the sliding door you see mist between the peaks in the morning and, in the evening, the lights of the coastal villages down by the water. Here there is buffalo cheese and beans from Sarconi, sausage that tastes of chilli, and bread still baked in a wood oven.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Lagonegro to Lago Sirino (Nemoli) (approx. 15 km)
- The drive
- From Lagonegro on provincial roads north to Lago Sirino near Nemoli, in the mountains of the Monte Sirino massif. The road is good but winding, with climbs; about 25 minutes. From the A2 motorway you come via the Lagonegro exit.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lago Sirino: a small lake in the mountains of Lagonegro, set among beech forests and meadows.
- Monte Sirino with trails and, in winter, a ski area, with views as far as the sea in clear weather.
- Lagonegro: a mountain town with an old town and churches, a starting point for excursions into the mountains.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Around Lagonegro aires are rare; in Lauria a site is listed as an area sosta. Ask about facilities and opening times beforehand. At Lago Sirino agriturismi and mountain huts sometimes have room for motorhomes.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Italian law allows overnighting in a motorhome wherever parking is permitted, as long as nothing is put out. In the mountains the rules of the municipalities and of nature conservation apply; observe the signs.
- Insider tip for campers
- At about 1,000 m it turns cool at night even in summer. In winter snow chains may be compulsory. Buy water and provisions in Lagonegro, as the choice in the mountains is small.
2Stage 2: Lago Sirino to Maratea (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Lagonegro take the SS585 Fondo Valle del Noce west, then the SS18 Tirrenica Inferiore to Maratea. The expressway is fast, the coast road winding, narrow and busy in summer; about an hour. The drive through the mountains and the view of the sea are impressive.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Maratea: an old town with over forty churches on the mountainside, and the harbour with fishing boats.
- Cristo Redentore on Monte San Biagio: a statue about 21 m high above the sea with panoramic views, reached by road.
- The coastal stretch between Acquafredda and Fiumicello with bays and rocks.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Maratea there are several sites, including the Villaggio Camping Maratea, the International Camping Village in Fiumicello, the Mara Ranch site and the Area Camper Riva Riva; clarify facilities and season beforehand. The access roads are in part steep and narrow, so announce large motorhomes in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Along the coast at Maratea overnighting outside the sites is practically ruled out in summer: municipal bylaws, checks and narrow roads. Use the campsites.
- Insider tip for campers
- The SS18 coast road is narrow and congested in high season; set off early. The town of Maratea lies high up, and the lanes of the old town are closed to vehicles. Boats and excursions to the grottoes start from the harbour; ask about prices in advance.
3Stage 3: Maratea to Laino Borgo (Lao valley) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Maratea on the SS585 Fondo Valle del Noce to Lauria, then on the A2 motorway or the SS19 further south into the Lao valley at Laino Borgo. Good roads with long tunnels and bridges; about 1 hour 10 minutes. The valley is green and overlooked by the peaks of the Pollino.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lauria: an old town in two parts on the slope, Lauria Superiore and Inferiore, with churches and lanes.
- Lao valley: gorges and waterfalls, rafting and canoeing on the river, especially full of water in spring and autumn.
- Laino Borgo and Laino Castello: villages on the slopes with views of the river.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In the Lao valley at Laino Borgo, operators such as Pollino Rafting and River Tribe are listed, which offer camping and aire pitches; ask about facilities and season beforehand. In Lauria an aire is also listed.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Lao valley the rules of nature conservation apply; overnighting outside the sites and open fires are not permitted. By the river there is a flood risk in heavy rain.
- Insider tip for campers
- Rafting tours on the Lao are possible between spring and autumn depending on the water level; operators give times and prices. Take water shoes and a change of clothes. The water level changes quickly; stay away from the river when it rains.
4Stage 4: Laino Borgo to Morano Calabro (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Laino Borgo on the A2 motorway or the SS19 south, then to Morano Calabro on a provincial road to the village at the foot of the Pollino. Partly narrow and winding; about 40 minutes. The old town of Morano lies on the slope, and the streets are very narrow.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Morano Calabro: a village clinging in tiers to a conical hill, with the church of San Pietro e Paolo and castle remains.
- Gole del Raganello near Civita: a deep gorge for guided tours, only with a guide and equipment.
- Views of the Pollino mountain range with the summit Serra Dolcedorme, 2,267 m.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Morano Calabro an Area Camper with electricity is listed as an aire; clarify facilities and season beforehand. The access into the village is tight, so use the site on the edge of the village.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Pollino National Park special rules apply; overnighting and fires outside designated sites are not permitted. In Morano itself quiet parking on the edge of the village is possible where it is allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Raganello gorge is dangerous in rain and may be entered only with qualified guides; book in advance. Do not drive into the old town of Morano with the motorhome; explore it on foot.
5Stage 5: Morano Calabro to Rotonda (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- Via Campotenese and the A2 motorway or the SS19 north to the Campotenese exit, then on provincial roads to Rotonda in Basilicata. The Campotenese plateau lies at about 1,000 m, and the road is good, but in winter snow may fall; about 40 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Rotonda: a village in Basilicata on the edge of the national park, with an old town and views of the Pollino.
- Bosnian pines (Pino loricato): ancient trees on the ridges of the Pollino, reached on hikes, often only with a guide or on guided tours.
- Trails in the national park through beech forests and over high pastures, with information at the park centre.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Rotonda agricampeggi and aires are listed; clarify facilities and season beforehand. It suits as a base for hikes in the national park. Ask beforehand about access for large motorhomes.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Strict rules apply in the national park: overnighting, camping and fires outside designated sites are forbidden. In the villages quiet parking in public squares is usual where it is allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- Summit tours to the Bosnian pines are long and demanding; plan a whole day and check the weather and path conditions at the park centre. At night it is cool on the plateau even in summer.
6Stage 6: Rotonda to Latronico (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Rotonda on provincial roads and the SS653 Sinnica north to the spa town of Latronico. A good but partly winding route through hills and valleys; about 55 minutes. The road through Latronico is narrow.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Latronico: a spa town with baths, the Terme di Latronico, and caves in the surrounding area.
- Grotta Zachito: a stalactite cave near Latronico, accessible only with a guide; check times in advance.
- The forests and pastures at the foot of the Pollino with views of the mountains.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In the area around Latronico aires are listed; ask about location and facilities beforehand. Alternatively agriturismi in the surrounding area offer pitches.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the mountains of Basilicata quiet parking in public squares is usual where it is allowed; observe the signs and the municipality’s bylaws.
- Insider tip for campers
- The thermal baths have their own opening times and prices; ask in advance. The area is known for truffles, cheese and sausage, which are cheaper direct from the producer.
7Stage 7: Latronico to Moliterno (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Latronico on the SS653 Sinnica and provincial roads into the Val d’Agri to Moliterno. The route runs through hills with olive groves and pastures and over several ridges; about an hour. The roads are good but have bends.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Moliterno: a mountain village with a castle and the famous sheep’s cheese Canestrato di Moliterno.
- Sarconi in the Val d’Agri: home of the bean with protected geographical indication, with festivals and markets in autumn.
- Views of the Pollino and the Agri valley from the hill of Moliterno.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Moliterno the Area Camper Moliterno is listed as an aire with electricity, water and waste disposal; clarify facilities and opening times beforehand. It suits as the end of the route.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Moliterno and the villages of the Val d’Agri quiet parking in public squares is usual where it is allowed; observe the signs.
- Insider tip for campers
- Canestrato di Moliterno matures in caves and is sold direct from the producer. From Moliterno the A2 motorway at Atena Lucana or the SS598 leads on north or south. Fill up with fuel and water before continuing.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law (Codice della Strada, Art. 185) distinguishes parking (“sosta”) from camping (“campeggio”): a motorhome may overnight where parking is allowed, as long as only its wheels touch the ground. Chairs, tables, awnings, stabilisers, wedges and discharged grey water are forbidden.
- In Basilicata quiet parking in small places is often tolerated, but legally the municipalities decide. On the coast at Maratea overnighting outside the sites is practically ruled out in summer; checks and fines are common.
- In Pollino National Park the park authority’s strict rules apply; overnighting outside designated sites, camping and open fires are not permitted. In summer the wildfire risk is high.
- Aree di sosta and agricampeggi are scattered across the region and some are not open all year. Useful apps: park4night, CamperOnline and Campercontact.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service points are called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. The aires in Rotonda, Moliterno and Maratea mostly have a service point; in the mountains they are rare.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at the service point; wild dumping is a main reason for new motorhome bans.
- Tap water is mostly drinkable; look for “acqua potabile”. In summer water can be scarce in mountain villages.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not swapped in Italy. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at GPL filling stations using the Italian adapter; in the mountains they are rare.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on the motorway; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on the motorway. Vehicles towing a caravan: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on the motorway. Dipped headlights outside built-up areas even in daytime.
- ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) with camera monitoring exists in many old towns; in Maratea and the mountain villages old-town lanes are closed to vehicles. Fines arrive by post, often months later.
- Tolls: the A2 Salerno–Reggio Calabria is toll-free on this section, as are the country roads of the route.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, such as bicycles on a rear carrier, the red-and-white warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is compulsory. Alcohol limit 0.5, for novice and professional drivers 0.0; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit. From 15 November to 15 April winter equipment may be required on mountain roads.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Hiking boots with a grippy sole for the stony paths in the Pollino and the coastal trails near Maratea.
- Water shoes and a change of clothes for rafting and streams in the Lao valley.
- A warm layer and a rain jacket: on the Campotenese plateau and in the Pollino it can turn cold even in summer.
- Levelling wedges for the sloping pitches of the agricampeggi.
- Italian gas adapter and full cylinders.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
