In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 280 km through Basilicata and the Murgia plateau: from the bread of Altamura via the Sassi of Matera and the rock churches of the Murgia Materana to abandoned Craco, into Carlo Levi’s Calanchi at Aliano and down to the Greek temple columns of Metaponto.
The spirit of the route
The landscape is pale, dry and old. Matera lies on a gorge in whose limestone wall people have lived for millennia: the Sassi, cave dwellings, cisterns and rock churches, were cleared in the 1950s and are lived in again today. Opposite, on the Murgia, paths run between holm oaks, asphodels and hermit caves. Further south Craco sits like a skeleton on its hill, abandoned after landslides in the 20th century. Aliano lies in the Calanchi, the pale grey ribs of clay that Carlo Levi described in “Christ Stopped at Eboli”. From the sliding door you see wheat fields, limestone cliffs and, in the evening, the lights of the Sassi hanging on the gorge like stars. At the end the Ionian Sea awaits, with sandy beaches and Doric columns in the evening light. Along the way there is bread, peperoni cruschi and a red wine from the Vulture volcano.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Altamura to Gravina in Puglia (approx. 20 km)
- The drive
- From Altamura take the SS96 and provincial roads north to Gravina in Puglia. Open plateau, straight stretches with short climbs; about 30 minutes. The old town of Gravina lies on the edge of the gorge and is narrow.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Altamura: the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta from the 13th century, founded under Frederick II, and an old town with lanes and courtyards.
- Pane di Altamura DOP in the bakeries of the old town, the first European bread with a protected designation of origin.
- Gravina: the Ponte Acquedotto over the gorge and the rock church of Madonna della Stella, hewn into the rock.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Altamura the aire at the Frantoio Oleario Perniola is listed; clarify facilities and prices beforehand. The site lies on the edge of town and suits as a base for Altamura. The route to Matera is short.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Italian law allows overnighting in a motorhome wherever parking is permitted, as long as nothing is put out. A ZTL applies in the old towns; use the car parks on the edge.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Altamura Man, a Neanderthal skeleton, lies in the Lamalunga cave and is not open to the public; finds are shown by the Museo Archeologico Nazionale. Bread is baked fresh and keeps for several days, so a loaf is worth taking as provisions.
2Stage 2: Gravina in Puglia to Matera (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Gravina take the SS7 Via Appia and the SS99 to Matera, over the Murgia plateau, with a view of the gorge on the approach. Well-built road; about 40 minutes. In Matera traffic is dense and the old town is closed to vehicles.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano: cave dwellings, churches and lanes, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1993.
- Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario: a furnished cave dwelling showing life before 1950.
- Santa Maria de Idris and San Pietro Caveoso: rock churches with frescoes on the edge of the gorge.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Matera the Area Camper Matera is listed, with electricity, service point and sanitary facilities; information on its website, check prices and season beforehand. Other options are agriturismi in the surrounding area that take motorhomes; the access is in part narrow.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Matera a ZTL applies in the Sassi area; parking in the centre is limited. Overnighting in public car parks is not recommended; use the aires.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Sassi are a pedestrian area; the paths lead over steps and cobblestones, and sturdy shoes are needed. Visit them early in the morning or in the evening, when there are no groups. Take the city buses or walk into the old town; the motorhome stays at the aire.
3Stage 3: Matera to Murgia Materana and Montescaglioso (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Matera into the Murgia, along roads on the edge of the gorge to the Belvedere Murgia Timone, then via the SS175 and provincial roads to Montescaglioso. Some narrow roads with gravel sections; about an hour. Access routes in the Murgia run along tracks that may be unsuitable for large motorhomes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Parco della Murgia Materana: rock churches and hermit caves in the gorge, with trails and views of the Sassi.
- Belvedere Murgia Timone: a viewpoint opposite the Sassi, especially in the evening.
- San Michele Arcangelo Abbey in Montescaglioso, a Benedictine monastery with a cloister.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In the area around Matera there are several agriturismi and masserie that take motorhomes; clarify facilities and access. They suit a two-night stay to experience the Murgia on foot.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Murgia Materana park the park authority’s rules apply; overnighting outside the sites and open fires are not permitted. In summer the wildfire risk is high.
- Insider tip for campers
- For hikes in the gorge a guide is recommended, who knows the access to the churches and the paths; information at the visitor centre. In summer the midday hours are very hot, so start early and take water.
4Stage 4: Matera to Pisticci (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- From Matera on the SS7 and the SS407 Basentana expressway towards the Ionian Sea, exit Pisticci. Well built, with wide views of limestone hills and wheat fields; about 55 minutes. The access to the old-town district is narrow.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pisticci: white houses on the ridge, the Dirupo district and the Rabatana, a quarter of lanes and viewpoints.
- Calanchi of Pisticci: clay ribs and erosion formations below the town.
- Drive over the plateau with a view of the Basento valley.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Pisticci the Area Sosta Camper Agriturismo Il Calanco is listed, with electricity, water and service point; clarify facilities and season beforehand. It lies on the edge of the Calanchi.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the old town of Pisticci parking is limited; overnighting in public car parks is possible where parking is allowed, but the aire is more convenient.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Calanchi glow most beautifully in the evening; plan the hike for sunset. In summer it is very hot here with little shade, so take water and sun protection.
5Stage 5: Pisticci to Craco (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- From Pisticci on provincial roads to Craco, over hills with wide views of the Calanchi. The road is narrow and winding; about 40 minutes. Access to the abandoned old town is via the new village of Craco Peschiera.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Craco: an abandoned town on a rocky ridge, given up after landslides and an evacuation from 1963, with churches, palazzi and towers.
- Guided visit of the old town wearing a helmet, possible only by registration; check dates in advance.
- Panorama over the Calanchi and the Cavone valley.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Craco the choice of aires is small; information from the municipality or the visitor centre. Use the aires in Pisticci or Aliano and plan the visit as a day trip.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Craco Peschiera overnighting in car parks is possible where parking is allowed; observe the signs. The abandoned village itself may be entered only with a guide, because there is a risk of collapse.
- Insider tip for campers
- The visit to Craco takes about an hour and is possible only on guided tours; clarify dates and tickets online or at the information office in advance. The place is known as a film location, for example for feature films and documentaries.
6Stage 6: Craco to Aliano (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Craco on provincial roads to Stigliano and on to Aliano. The road is winding, narrow and runs over hills with views of the Calanchi; about an hour. On the last stretch the access into the village is tight.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Aliano: a village on a ridge above the Calanchi, Carlo Levi’s place of exile, with museums and the Parco Letterario.
- Calanchi di Aliano: clay ribs that glow like waves in the evening light, with trails.
- Casa di Carlo Levi and the museum of peasant culture.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Aliano the Area Aliano is listed as an aire with electricity, water and service point; clarify facilities and prices beforehand. From there the Calanchi can be reached on foot.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the village quiet parking in public squares is usual where it is allowed; observe the signs and the municipality’s bylaws. The aire is the more convenient choice.
- Insider tip for campers
- The literature museum and the Casa di Carlo Levi are open only at certain times; check opening times in advance. If you have read the book, you will see the landscape with different eyes. In summer it is hot, so hike early in the morning.
7Stage 7: Aliano to Metaponto (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- From Aliano on provincial roads and the SS653 Sinnica expressway south-east into the coastal valley, then on the SS106 Jonica to Metaponto. Long, fast stretches with little traffic; about an hour and a half. Near the coast greenhouses and fruit plantations dominate.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Tavole Palatine: fifteen Doric columns of the temple of Hera from the 6th century BC, at the edge of the plain.
- Parco Archeologico and Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Metaponto with finds from the ancient settlement where Pythagoras is said to have lived.
- The wide sandy beach on the Ionian Sea and the pine woods behind the beach.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: On the coast near Metaponto the site Amici nella Natura is listed, with electricity, water, service point and showers; clarify facilities and season beforehand. Other campsites and aires lie at the Lido; in summer the coast is heavily visited.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the beaches of the Ionian coast bans on motorhomes often apply in summer; observe municipal bylaws and signs. Use the aires.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Tavole Palatine are most beautiful in the morning and evening; check opening times. The coast is full in August, while May, June and September are quieter and the sea is already warm. Mosquitoes are common in the coastal plains, so take repellent.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law (Codice della Strada, Art. 185) distinguishes parking (“sosta”) from camping (“campeggio”): a motorhome may overnight where parking is allowed, as long as only its wheels touch the ground. Chairs, tables, awnings, stabilisers, wedges and discharged grey water are forbidden.
- In Basilicata wild camping in small places is often tolerated, but legally the municipalities decide. In Matera and on the Ionian coast bans and ZTL apply; in summer the coastal municipalities check heavily.
- In the Parco della Murgia Materana and in the Calanchi the authorities’ own rules apply; overnighting outside designated sites and open fires are not permitted.
- Aree di sosta and agricampeggi are numerous in the region, but some are not open all year. Useful apps: park4night, CamperOnline and Campercontact.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service points are called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. Most aires around Matera have a service point; fill up with water before driving inland.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at the service point; wild dumping is a main reason for new motorhome bans.
- Tap water is mostly drinkable; look for “acqua potabile”. In summer water can be scarce.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not swapped in Italy. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at GPL filling stations using the Italian adapter.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on the motorway; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on the motorway. Vehicles towing a caravan: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on the motorway. Dipped headlights outside built-up areas even in daytime.
- ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) with camera monitoring exists in Matera, Altamura and many old towns; fines arrive by post, often months later.
- Tolls: the expressways of Basilicata and the country roads are toll-free; the approach via the A14 is a toll road.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, such as bicycles on a rear carrier, the red-and-white warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is compulsory. Alcohol limit 0.5, for novice and professional drivers 0.0; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Sturdy footwear with a good tread for the steps and cobblestones of the Sassi and the paths of the Murgia.
- Sun hat, sun protection and at least two litres of water per person: the Calanchi and the Murgia offer hardly any shade.
- Head torch for visiting caves and cisterns.
- Mosquito repellent for the coastal plain near Metaponto.
- Italian gas adapter and full cylinders.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
