In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the ferry at Olbia via La Maddalena, the Gulf of Orosei and the Genna ’e Silana pass to the beaches of Villasimius: around 600 kilometres of east coast, where you book coves, plan overnight stops and take the siesta seriously.
The spirit of the route
Sardinia’s east begins with the smell of diesel and salt as the ferry’s ramp opens in the morning light over the Gulf of Olbia. Then come granite boulders worn by the wind into mushrooms and bears’ heads, cork oaks with rust-red trunks, juniper and rockrose smelling resinous in the midday heat. Through the sliding door you see water in colours that barely have names, and behind it the bare limestone walls of the Supramonte. The SS125, the Orientale Sarda, is not a coast road in the strict sense: it winds through cork forests and over passes around 1,000 metres, and only descends to the sea at the very end. Here you learn the island’s rules: beaches are booked, sand stays on the beach, fires are taboo in summer – and the best evening ends on a campsite under pines, not in a dune car park.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Olbia (ferry port) to Palau via San Pantaleo and the Costa Smeralda (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- From the Isola Bianca port through Olbia to the north, along narrow, winding minor roads up to the granite village of San Pantaleo, then via Porto Cervo, Baja Sardinia and Cannigione along the Gulf of Arzachena to Palau. Short climbs, many roundabouts, and in the Costa Smeralda narrow approaches to coves and villa roads. Driving time alone is around 2 hours, considerably more in August with traffic jams around Porto Cervo.
- Highlights & must-sees
- San Pantaleo: the village square in front of the church beneath jagged granite pinnacles, with a Thursday market for crafts and food in summer.
- Nuraghe La Prisgiona and the Coddu Ecchju giants’ tombs near Arzachena – Bronze Age sites, signposted directly on the road to Luogosanto.
- Capo d’Orso near Palau: the wind-sculpted “Bear Rock” above the La Maddalena archipelago, a short climb from the pay car park.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Camping Baia Saraceno in Palau, right on the water and about 600 m from the town centre: shaded pitches, electricity (for an extra charge), restaurant and market; in 2026 open from 1 April to 31 October according to the operator. Alternative on the Gulf of Arzachena: Centro Vacanze Isuledda near Cannigione, about 3.5 km from the town centre on the coast; ask beforehand about motorhome pitches and service facilities. Book in July and August.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Costa Smeralda and around Arzachena, wild overnighting is practically out of the question: beach car parks such as Capriccioli or Liscia Ruja charge fees, some have height barriers or a ban on campers, and municipal ordinances prohibit motorhomes stopping overnight on the coast. The forestry police (Corpo Forestale) and the municipal police carry out regular checks in summer.
- Insider tip for campers
- In San Pantaleo the lanes are narrow and the few car parks are full on market day – leave the motorhome at the edge of the village or visit on another day. Before driving into the Costa Smeralda, fill up and shop in Olbia: petrol stations and supermarkets on the coast are more expensive and overcrowded in high summer. The ferry often arrives early in the morning; use the quiet hours until 9 a.m. for the narrow stretches.
2Stage 2: Palau to Santa Teresa Gallura via La Maddalena and Caprera (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- In the morning, take the ferry from Palau to La Maddalena (about 15 minutes, several sailings an hour), then follow the roughly 20 km panoramic road around the island and across the causeway to Caprera. Back in Palau, take the SS133 bis along the coast to Santa Teresa Gallura, a well-built, gently hilly route through maquis and granite. The islands can also be explored without the motorhome: as a foot passenger with a bicycle or the island bus.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Compendio Garibaldino on Caprera: the home and tomb of Giuseppe Garibaldi in the middle of the Arcipelago di La Maddalena National Park.
- Viewpoints along the Panoramica of La Maddalena with views over Spargi, Budelli and the Strait of Bonifacio to Corsica.
- Boat trip to the outer islands from La Maddalena or Palau: the “Spiaggia Rosa” on Budelli is closed and can only be seen from the water; Cala Coticcio and Cala Brigantina on Caprera can only be visited with authorised guides.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Camping La Liccia near Santa Teresa Gallura, about 5 km from the town on a hill above a long sandy beach (roughly 10 minutes on foot): motorhome pitches with water, waste-water connection and electricity; check opening times beforehand. On La Maddalena itself there are only a few small campsites and pitch offers – if you want to stay there, enquire beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The whole archipelago is a national park: overnighting in a vehicle outside designated sites, landing on protected beaches and walking on the dunes are all prohibited. On the mainland between Palau and Santa Teresa, too, the beach car parks (Porto Pollo, Rena Majore) charge parking fees in summer and camping-style behaviour is not allowed; anyone who takes sand or stones from the beach risks heavy fines.
- Insider tip for campers
- For a boat trip into the national park, the park authority charges an environmental fee, which is usually paid along with the tour operator’s price – ask when booking whether it is included. If you cross with the motorhome, you pay by length; the vehicle fits, but the old town of La Maddalena is tight and parking is scarce. The cheaper and more relaxed option: leave the motorhome in Palau and take a bicycle with you.
3Stage 3: Santa Teresa Gallura to San Teodoro via Capo Testa (approx. 95 km)
- The drive
- In the morning, the short detour to Capo Testa (about 4 km, narrow at the end, little parking), then via Arzachena on the SS125 and the Olbia bypass to the south, on via Porto San Paolo with views of Tavolara to San Teodoro. Mostly a wide main road, multi-lane around Olbia, with lorry and holiday traffic in high season. About 2 hours without stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Capo Testa: the granite landscape of the Valle della Luna and the lighthouse at the tip of the headland, on foot from the car park at the isthmus.
- Spiaggia Rena Bianca in Santa Teresa with a view of the chalk cliffs of Bonifacio; in summer 2026, from 1 June to 30 September, access is by online booking only (lovesantateresa.it/booking), so check the rules beforehand; parking in town is scarce.
- Isola Tavolara: the limestone island off Porto San Paolo, best seen from the viewpoint at Capo Coda Cavallo.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Camping San Teodoro La Cinta in Via del Tirreno, about 800 m from the town centre, set in greenery with access to La Cinta beach: pitches, hot showers, bar; check opening times and motorhome facilities beforehand. Book early in August.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At Capo Testa many campers spend the night in the car parks – the municipality of Santa Teresa is cracking down on this, and the Valle della Luna is no place for wild campers. In San Teodoro the car parks at the beaches of Cala Brandinchi, Lu Impostu and La Cinta charge fees in summer, and overnight parking with a motorhome is prohibited there. Expect checks along this stretch of coast.
- Insider tip for campers
- Cala Brandinchi and Lu Impostu are subject to quotas from 1 June to 30 September 2026 and can only be accessed with prior online booking through the municipality of San Teodoro (santeodorospiagge.it); the fee for visitors is 2 euros and parking is extra; check time slots and the current rules on the official municipal website before visiting. In the evening in summer, the centre of San Teodoro becomes a pedestrian zone – stay on the site with the motorhome and go to the beach on foot or by bike.
4Stage 4: San Teodoro to Orosei (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- On the SS131dcn expressway, or in parallel on the old SS125, via Budoni, Posada and Siniscola to the south. The old road is slower but leads through the villages and closer to the sea; near Posada short side roads branch off to the beaches. Beyond Siniscola the plain of the Cedrino opens up, with the limestone ridge of Monte Albo on the right. About 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Posada: the white village on a rocky spur with the Castello della Fava, a short climb with a view over the river mouth.
- Oasi di Biderosa north of Orosei: pine forest and five small coves, with restricted access and a fee in summer; motorhomes are not admitted according to the booking portal, so check the rules beforehand and prefer a bike or a walk.
- Old town of Orosei with Piazza del Popolo and the church of San Giacomo, plus the view of Monte Tuttavista.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Camping Cala Ginepro in Cala Liberotto on the coast north of Orosei, in a large pine forest right on the beach: pitches with electricity, camper service, shop and restaurant; check opening times beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The pine forests and dunes on the Orosei coast are protected; overnighting in the forest car parks is not allowed, and in summer the forestry police also patrol because of the fire risk. During the day, the pay car parks at the beaches are fine.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up in Siniscola or Orosei: between Dorgali and Tortolì there are hardly any petrol stations on the SS125 over the pass. Monte Albo and the plain around Orosei heat up strongly in summer – schedule your drive for the morning.
5Stage 5: Orosei to Cala Gonone (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- Via Dorgali to the Galleria di Cala Gonone: the tunnel through Monte Bardia suddenly opens out above the sea, then hairpins lead about 400 metres of altitude down into the town. The road is wide enough but steep – use low gears going down, and allow for enough cooling on the way back. A little under an hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Boat trip in the Gulf of Orosei from the port of Cala Gonone: Cala Luna, Cala Sisine, Cala Biriola and Cala Mariolu, plus the Grotta del Bue Marino.
- Hike to Cala Luna along the coastal path from Cala Fuili (about 4 km one way, rocky and shadeless).
- Nuragic village of Serra Orrios between Dorgali and Oliena, well-preserved round huts and a well temple.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Camping Cala Gonone in Via Collodi on the edge of town, in a pine forest about 200 m from the beaches: pitches, camper service, pool, restaurant; check opening times beforehand and book in good time in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The municipality of Dorgali points out that wild camping is not permitted. The beach car parks in Cala Gonone and at Cala Fuili charge fees during the day and are not intended for motorhomes overnight.
- Insider tip for campers
- For several coves in the gulf (including Cala Luna, Cala Mariolu, Cala Sisine, Cala Biriola), access restrictions or fees imposed by the municipalities of Dorgali and Baunei apply in summer; rules, prices and booking routes change every year – ask the boat operator or check the municipal websites whether a ticket is needed and whether it is included in the tour price. Save booking confirmations offline – there is often no signal at sea or in the coves. Take the first boats in the morning, before the wind picks up; in a mistral or scirocco, tours are cancelled.
6Stage 6: Cala Gonone to Santa Maria Navarrese via Genna ’e Silana (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- Back via Dorgali and along the old SS125 in long bends through the Supramonte up to the Genna ’e Silana pass (just over 1,000 m). After that comes one of the loneliest stretches in Sardinia: hardly any villages, limestone plateaus, holm oaks, free-roaming goats and cows on the carriageway. Via Urzulei down to Baunei and on to the coast at Santa Maria Navarrese. Well built but winding; around 2 hours of driving time alone.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gola di Gorropu: from the Genna ’e Silana pass, a marked path leads well over 600 metres of altitude down into one of the deepest gorges in Europe; an entrance fee is charged at the entrance to the gorge itself. The return in the sun is hard – start early.
- Altopiano del Golgo above Baunei with the karst sinkhole of Su Sterru, the church of San Pietro and the starting point for Cala Goloritzé.
- Cala Goloritzé: about 1.5 hours’ descent from the Golgo to the cove with the Aguglia rock needle; in summer entry only with a paid ticket booked online in advance from the municipality of Baunei, with a limited number of visitors per day.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Camping Cavallo Bianco in Lotzorai, a few kilometres south of Santa Maria Navarrese, in pine forest near the beach, with electricity, sanitary facilities and fresh water and waste disposal; check opening times beforehand. There are further campsites in Lotzorai and Tortolì.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the Genna ’e Silana pass and on the Golgo plateau people occasionally spend the night in car parks, but this is not a designated pitch, and camping-style behaviour is prohibited; in summer the fire risk there is at its highest. On the Golgo, the car parks for the Goloritzé hike charge fees. Down on the coast in Santa Maria Navarrese, signs at beach car parks exclude motorhomes.
- Insider tip for campers
- The road from Baunei up to the Golgo is steep and tight in the hairpins; with large motorhomes it is better to go up by shuttle or bike and leave the vehicle below. There are hardly any supplies on the SS125 between Dorgali and Baunei – take water, provisions and a full tank. Beware of animals behind bends, especially at dusk.
7Stage 7: Santa Maria Navarrese to Costa Rei via Arbatax (approx. 115 km)
- The drive
- Via Tortolì to the port of Arbatax, then on the SS125, in sections rebuilt as a new alignment (Nuova Orientale Sarda) with tunnels and viaducts, elsewhere on the winding old road through the hill country, south to the Flumendosa valley near Muravera and on to the Costa Rei. About 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Rocce Rosse of Arbatax: red porphyry rocks right at the harbour, most beautiful in the morning light.
- Torre di Barì near Bari Sardo, a Spanish coastal watchtower on a headland above the sea.
- Menhirs of Piscina Rei (Cuili Piras) on the road to the Costa Rei – a group of around 50 prehistoric stones on the plain.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Villaggio Camping Capo Ferrato on the Costa Rei, on the sandy beach: numbered pitches with electricity, some in the first row by the sea; check opening times and motorhome services beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the Costa Rei and in the municipality of Muravera, overnight sosta at beaches and on coast roads is not allowed; dune areas are protected. The designated beach car parks can be used during the day and are mostly charged in summer.
- Insider tip for campers
- Arbatax and Tortolì have supermarkets and petrol stations – the last convenient opportunity before the sparsely populated Sarrabus. Ferries to Civitavecchia and Genoa dock at Arbatax; if you want to cut the route short from here, check the timetable, as the services are seasonal and do not run daily.
8Stage 8: Costa Rei to Cagliari via Villasimius (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- South along the coast to Villasimius, then on the SP17 into the bends above the cliffs towards Cagliari: narrow coves, steep slopes and viewpoint car parks, in places tight and without a verge. Beyond Quartu Sant’Elena, along the Poetto and through the Molentargius salt pans into the city. About 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Capo Carbonara near Villasimius with the beaches of Porto Giunco and Simius and the flamingos in the Stagno Notteri.
- Punta Molentis: a small cove on a headland, subject to quotas in 2026 from 6 June to 31 October and accessible only with prior online reservation (pass.brav.it/Villasimius) and a fee of 10 euros per person, plus a parking charge (according to press reports about 10 euros for cars and 15 euros for campers); check the current position on the municipality of Villasimius’s website.
- Cagliari: the Castello district with the Bastione di Saint Remy and the Sella del Diavolo at the end of the Poetto.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: There is no campsite in Cagliari itself. The central Camper Cagliari Park in Via Stanislao Caboni near the port is reported to be open all year, with water and waste disposal; electricity and showers cost extra, and according to user reports payment is in cash. The old town is about 1.5 km away. On the way, in Villasimius, is Villaggio Camping Spiaggia del Riso, right on the coast with pitches for motorhomes; check opening times beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Cagliari and Quartu Sant’Elena there have been repeated ordinances against motorhomes overnighting at the Poetto and on the coast roads; in Villasimius, too, the beach car parks charge fees during the day and are closed to campers at night. The safe solution is the sosta in the city.
- Insider tip for campers
- The old-town districts of Castello, Marina, Stampace and Villanova are camera-monitored ZTL zones – do not drive in with the motorhome, as fines arrive by post. The return to Olbia takes around 3.5 hours on the toll-free SS131; alternatively, ferries to the mainland leave from Cagliari – check timetable and season in advance.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Under the Italian highway code (Art. 185), a motorhome may park, and also spend the night, wherever parking is allowed – what is prohibited is camping-style behaviour: chairs, tables, awning, wedges, extended stabilisers, grey water on the ground.
- Sardinia restricts this right heavily on the coast: numerous coastal municipalities prohibit by ordinance motorhomes staying overnight at beaches, on coast roads and in pine forests; many beach car parks carry signs banning campers or have height barriers. The regional bathing regulations prohibit tents and camping on the beach as well as driving and parking on dunes. The forestry police and municipal police carry out targeted checks in summer.
- Taking sand, gravel, stones and shells from beaches is prohibited under Regional Law No. 16/2017; fines range from €500 to €3,000. Holidaymakers are caught again and again at the airport and at ferry checks.
- Many of the well-known coves are subject to quotas or charges in summer (including Cala Goloritzé, Cala Brandinchi, Lu Impostu, Punta Molentis, plus coves in the Gulf of Orosei); in the La Maddalena National Park, Budelli is closed. Prices and booking portals change every year.
- You can legally stay overnight on campsites, in the “aree di sosta camper” and on agriturismi with pitches. Useful apps: park4night, CamperOnline (an Italian directory with up-to-date user reports), Campercontact.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Camper service (“carico e scarico”) is available on campsites and at some sosta areas; free stations are rare on the east coast, and some sites also empty waste for passing travellers for a fee.
- Empty grey water and the toilet cassette only at the station: illegal dumping is one of the main reasons for the camper bans on the Sardinian coast.
- Tap water is often heavily chlorinated and in places scarce in high summer; many travellers drink bottled water or use a filter. “Acqua potabile” is drinking water, “acqua non potabile” is not.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged. There are LPG (GPL) filling stations in Olbia, Nuoro, Tortolì and around Cagliari, and only a few in the interior of the east coast; fill refillable tanks with the Italian (“Dish”) adapter, often only by the staff. Arrive with two full cylinders.
- Gas is prohibited on the ferries: close the cylinder valves before boarding and run the fridge on battery. “Camping on board” (spending the night in your own vehicle on board) is the exception on the Sardinia ferries – when booking, check whether it is offered for the crossing in question; otherwise a cabin or a seat is needed.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on motorways; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on motorways. Vehicles towing a caravan: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on motorways. Dipped headlights are compulsory outside built-up areas during the day.
- Sardinia has no motorways and no tolls; the SS131 and SS131dcn expressways are toll-free. You only pay tolls on the mainland on the way to the ferry port.
- Fire protection: under the regional fire-protection regulations, the period of increased forest-fire risk generally runs from 1 June to 31 October. During this time, open fires and barbecuing outside permitted facilities in and near forest and maquis areas are prohibited, and cigarettes must not be thrown away. On days with a high warning level in the region’s daily fire-danger bulletin, additional restrictions apply.
- If a load projects beyond the rear – for example bicycles on a rear rack – the red-and-white reflective warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is compulsory.
- City centres such as Cagliari, Olbia and Tortolì have camera-monitored ZTL zones; in holiday resorts such as San Teodoro and Santa Teresa, centres become pedestrian zones in the evening in summer. Alcohol limit 0.05 %, 0.0 for novice drivers in their first three years; using a mobile phone at the wheel has been penalised much more severely since the reform of the highway code at the end of 2024.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Smartphone with offline-saved QR codes and booking confirmations for Cala Goloritzé, Cala Luna, Cala Brandinchi and the rest – there is often no signal in the coves and at sea.
- Light hiking boots with tread and at least 2 litres of water per person: the paths to the Gola di Gorropu and Cala Goloritzé are stony, shadeless and strenuous on the way up.
- Sun shade or reflective foil for the windscreen and a 12 V cool box – the cab heats up quickly on the east coast in summer, and awnings belong only on the campsite.
- Italian gas adapter and two full cylinders: LPG filling stations are rare in the interior.
- Red-and-white warning panel to Italian standard for the rear rack, in case bikes or boxes project beyond the vehicle.
- Snorkel and mask: the coves in the Gulf of Orosei and around La Maddalena are clear and rocky – a beach day with no sand to take home.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
