In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 325 km from the port of Cagliari up Sardinia's south-east coast as far as Muravera and back via Pula along the Costa del Sud to Chia – granite coves, salt pans, orange groves and watchtowers for anyone who prefers to experience the sea without the crowds, in June and September.
The spirit of the route
The south of Sardinia is the quieter, flatter side of the island. Beyond the port of Cagliari a coast begins where granite rocks drop into turquoise water, white dunes frame salt lakes and flamingos stand in the lagoons of Molentargius. From the sliding door you see fishing boats off Villasimius in the morning, juniper and macchia at midday, and pink clouds over Capo Carbonara in the evening. The road runs past torri costiere, the Spanish watchtowers that fended off Saracens and pirates, and in the Sarrabus through citrus and vegetable fields at the mouth of the Flumendosa. Beyond Pula lie the ruins of Nora, then the dunes of Chia. If you travel in early summer or early autumn, you will find room on the beaches; in August, reservations and patience are a must.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Cagliari to Villasimius (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From the port of Cagliari take the coastal road SP17 via Quartu Sant’Elena, Geremeas, Solanas and Capitana to Villasimius. The road is well built but winding, and on summer weekends full of day-trippers; about 1.5 hours. In Cagliari itself, you visit Castello and Poetto from the campsite or pitch by bus.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Cagliari: the Castello district with the Pisan towers, the cathedral and the Bastione di Saint Remy.
- Molentargius-Saline Park near Poetto: salt basins with flamingos, cycle paths and observation points.
- The Sella del Diavolo above Poetto and the route through the coastal rocks to Villasimius.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Cagliari there is the pitch Camper Cagliari Park with supply and disposal and a link to the city. In Villasimius there are pitches (aree di sosta, check the current status beforehand) and campsites such as Villaggio Camping Spiaggia del Riso. Electricity and sanitary facilities are standard; the season usually lasts April to October, and some sites close earlier.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Cagliari and on the coastal road SP17, overnighting outside designated sites is not usual; municipalities check, and in high season parking bans apply on the beaches. On the Sella del Diavolo road, parking and access rules apply.
- Insider tip for campers
- Cagliari has ZTL zones in Castello, Marina and Stampace with camera monitoring; you are better off leaving motorhomes at the pitch or in car parks outside. The bus to the centre runs from Poetto; buy tickets beforehand at tobacconists. Take care of water and cassette before moving on: the coast to the south has only a few service points.
2Stage 2: Villasimius to Costa Rei (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Villasimius on the SP17 north via Campulongu and Porto Giunco, then towards Muravera and with a turn-off to Costa Rei. Well built road with bends; about 45 minutes. Access roads to the beaches are partly closed or subject to a parking fee.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Capo Carbonara and the Torre di Porto Giunco: watchtower above Simius beach, with a view of the salt lagoon Stagno Notteri.
- Stagno Notteri with flamingos, only a few steps from Campus beach.
- Cala Pira and Piscina Rei beaches on the east coast: white sand and shallow, turquoise water.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In the Costa Rei and Capo Ferrato area there are campsites such as Capo Ferrato; many of them have electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal. The season is mostly spring to autumn, and in July and August you should book.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the south-east coast, overnighting on the beach and in beach car parks is forbidden in summer and is checked; in the Capo Carbonara marine protected area, additional rules for boats and beaches apply. Free camping is not worth it.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Capo Carbonara marine protected area regulates swimming, diving and anchoring; boat trips to the Isola dei Cavoli start in Villasimius. Access roads to the beaches are often subject to a parking fee and a visitor limit in summer, so arrive early.
3Stage 3: Costa Rei to Muravera (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Costa Rei back to the SP17 or towards Muravera and on along the coastal road through orange groves and vegetable fields. Flat and easy to drive; about 1 hour. Beyond Muravera the Sarrabus begins, with the estuary flats of the Flumendosa.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Muravera, known for oranges and citrus fruit, with vegetable markets and farm shops.
- Mouth of the Flumendosa, the second-longest river in Sardinia, and riparian woodland.
- Villaputzu and Porto Corallo: coastal tower and beach between the river mouth and the sea.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Muravera and Villaputzu there are small campsites and agriturismi, for example in the surroundings of Muravera; check facilities, season and vehicle length beforehand. In summer many sites are full, so reservation is advisable.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Sarrabus the situation is more relaxed than on the tourist beaches, but beach and nature-protection bans apply here too; camping is forbidden on farm tracks and in riparian woodland. Quiet car parks are sometimes tolerated for overnighting without camping behaviour – only where there is no prohibition sign.
- Insider tip for campers
- Between Villaputzu and Quirra lies the military training area Salto di Quirra; access to parts of the coast is restricted. Observe the signs and use only public roads and beaches. You are best off buying oranges and vegetables directly from the farms in the Flumendosa valley.
4Stage 4: Muravera to Cagliari (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- From Muravera on the SS125 Orientale Sarda south via San Vito and the Sette Fratelli mountains, then via Sinnai back towards Cagliari. The SS125 is well built but winding; about 1.5 hours. The route offers views of Mediterranean macchia and the Sette Fratelli mountains.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Parco regionale dei Sette Fratelli: holm oak forests and hiking trails, with Monte Serpeddì nearby.
- Sinnai, known for crafts and pecorino, with a small old town.
- Cagliari Poetto and the Bastione di Saint Remy on the return.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Cagliari the pitch Camper Cagliari Park offers supply and disposal and a link to the city. Check facilities, fees and opening times beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Cagliari and the surrounding area, overnighting outside designated sites is not usual; municipalities check. In the Parco dei Sette Fratelli, a camping ban applies outside designated sites.
- Insider tip for campers
- Use the free afternoon in Cagliari for the Archaeological National Museum and the Marina district with its restaurants. Bus and taxi are easier from the pitch than the motorhome in the ZTL network. Top up gas cylinders and water before moving on to the south-west.
5Stage 5: Cagliari to Pula (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Cagliari on the SS195 Sulcitana south-west, past Elmas and Capoterra, along the Santa Gilla lagoon and the salt pans, to Pula. The SS195 is well built, but has lorry traffic and weekend queues; about 40 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Santa Gilla and the lagoon of Cagliari with flamingos and salt pans, seen from the roadside.
- Nora: ancient city on a peninsula near Pula, with a Roman theatre and mosaics, accessible after buying a ticket.
- Pula: old town and beach, starting point for excursions into the mountains of the Sulcis.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Pula and on the Costa del Sud there are several campsites, including in the Cala d’Ostia area; electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal are mostly available. The season is mostly spring to autumn. Check existence, opening times and vehicle length beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the Costa del Sud, overnighting in beach car parks is forbidden in summer and consistently checked; for motorhomes, parking behaviour applies, but not camping behaviour. If in doubt, ask the municipality.
- Insider tip for campers
- In May the procession of Sant’Efisio from Cagliari to Nora takes place, with road closures; check dates beforehand. Nora lies on a narrow peninsula, and parking at the entrance is limited. Early in the morning it is cooler and emptier.
6Stage 6: Pula to Chia (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- On the coastal road south-west via Santa Margherita di Pula, Is Molas and Domus de Maria to Chia. The road is narrow, winding and has superb views of macchia and sea; about 1 hour. Heavily used at weekends and in summer, and car parks in Chia are tight.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Is Molas: golf and nature landscape with juniper, coves and hiking trails on the coast.
- Torre di Chia: Spanish watchtower above the beach of Chia.
- Dunes of Chia and Su Giudeu, beaches with white sand and juniper dunes.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Chia there are Camping Torre Chia and the Area Camper Chia with electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal. Season usually April to October; in summer book in good time. Few pitches are large enough for long motorhomes.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Chia, overnighting outside the sites is forbidden in season and is checked; motorhomes stand on designated car parks only during the day. Dunes and juniper areas are protected.
- Insider tip for campers
- The dunes of Chia are fragile: walk only on marked paths. Car parks at the beach fill up from the morning in summer; come early or in the evening. Kitesurfers and windsurfers use the lagoon of Chia; when the mistral blows, the beach is windy.
7Stage 7: Chia to Cagliari (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- Back on the coastal road and the SS195 Sulcitana north-east via Pula and Elmas to the port of Cagliari. The route is familiar, well built and about 1 hour long, but busy on Sunday evenings and at the end of the holidays. Allow time for the port access and check-in.
- Highlights & must-sees
- A last view of the Gulf of Cagliari from the hills near Capoterra.
- Salt pans and flamingos at Santa Gilla as a farewell.
- Cagliari's port and the Marina district for a last aperitif.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: If the ferry leaves early in the morning, stay overnight at the pitch Camper Cagliari Park or a campsite near the port. Check the current status, fees and opening beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Cagliari, overnighting outside designated sites is not usual; the port zone and car parks are monitored. Motorhomes stand only where parking is permitted.
- Insider tip for campers
- From the port of Cagliari, ferries run to Civitavecchia, Naples and Palermo, among others (check routes and seasonal timetables with the shipping lines); observe the shipping line's check-in times. Gas cylinders usually have to be closed and declared. Fill up the tank the day before, as filling stations at the port are expensive.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law (Codice della Strada) distinguishes parking (“sosta”) from camping (“campeggio”): a motorhome may stand where parking is permitted, provided it only stands on its wheels. Chairs, tables, awning, support legs and draining grey water count as camping and are forbidden.
- In Sardinia coastal municipalities and protected areas issue their own bans; on the Costa del Sud, in Villasimius, Costa Rei and in the Capo Carbonara marine protected area, overnighting in beach car parks counts as an offence in summer. Fines and towing are possible.
- In the wildfire season (usually June to October, check the regional ordinance) open fires are forbidden in forests, in the macchia and on beaches; grills and gas stoves outdoors are risky.
- Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact and CamperOnline (Italian). Aree di sosta and campsites in the south fill up quickly in high summer – book.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Filling and emptying is called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. There are service points in Cagliari, Villasimius and Chia; on the campsites of the coast it is mostly included.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at the service point; wild dumping is a main reason for bans.
- Tap water is mostly drinkable; in summer water can become scarce, so fill the tank before the coastal stages.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Italy. You fill refillable cylinders and gas tanks at LPG filling stations with the Italian adapter. Arrive with two full cylinders.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on the motorway; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas, 100 km/h on the motorway. Car-and-caravan combinations: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on the motorway. Dipped headlights are required outside built-up areas even in daytime.
- Sardinia has no motorway tolls: the SS195, SS125 and SS131 are toll-free. Ferries run from Civitavecchia, Livorno, Genoa, Naples and Palermo to Cagliari; state the length and height of the motorhome when booking.
- ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) with camera monitoring exists in Cagliari (Castello, Marina, Stampace) and in the centres of the coastal towns; the fines arrive by post, often months later.
- Beaches and access roads in summer: car parks at Villasimius, Costa Rei and Chia are subject to a fee or limited; beach visits with a limited number of people in individual bays. Check with the municipality beforehand.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, for example bicycles on a rear rack, the red-and-white warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is mandatory. Blood alcohol limit 0.5, 0.0 for novice and professional drivers; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Parasol or beach shelter with sand pegs – many beaches have little shade and the ground is sandy.
- Snorkel, mask and water shoes for the clear bays near Capo Carbonara and Cala Pira.
- Binoculars for the flamingos in Molentargius and in the lagoons of Santa Gilla and Notteri.
- Mosquito repellent and a mosquito net for the lagoons and river mouths in the Sarrabus.
- Levelling ramps of level 2–3 for sloping plots on the hillside campsites.
- Italian gas adapter for LPG filling stations, plus two full cylinders on arrival.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
