In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 310 km through south-west Sardinia: from Cagliari along the coast of Chia to Porto Pino, onto the island of Sant’Antioco and by ferry to Carloforte, then through the Iglesiente mining district to Buggerru and the dunes of Piscinas on the Costa Verde.
The spirit of the route
South-west Sardinia is the wildest part of the island. Beyond Cagliari the coast road follows white sandy bays and pine groves, then the Sulcis begins with salt pans, flamingos and the island of Sant’Antioco, whose causeway the Phoenicians already used. Carloforte on San Pietro speaks Ligurian, and the lanes smell of tuna and basil. In the Iglesiente, abandoned mines stand like castles above the sea: Nebida, Masua, the rock stack Pan di Zucchero. Further north, on the Costa Verde, the dunes of Piscinas rise up to 60 metres high, with juniper and deer in the hinterland. From the motorhome you hear only wind and surf at night here. The area is thinly populated, the roads are twisty, and that is exactly what makes it so quiet.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Cagliari to Porto Pino (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- From Cagliari take the SS195 (Strada Sulcitana) along the coast via Pula, Chia and Teulada to Sant’Anna Arresi and Porto Pino. The road is well built, but twisty, with coastal panoramas; about 1.5 to 2 hours. Traffic is dense in season, and the dead-end roads to the beaches are narrow. At Capo Teulada there is a military area, and access roads can be closed at times.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Nora near Pula, a Phoenician-Roman city on a headland with a theatre, mosaics and baths.
- Chia with the beach of Su Giudeu and the Campana dune as well as the Torre di Chia.
- Dune di Porto Pino: dunes by the sea, parts of which lie in the military area and are accessible only outside exercise times.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Along the coast at Chia and Porto Pino there are campsites and aree di sosta, including the Area camper comunale Porto Pino and Agricamping Il Ruscello near Sant’Anna Arresi according to map data; electric hook-up, sanitary facilities and waste disposal are not available everywhere. Season mostly spring to autumn; call in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Along the coast of Chia and Porto Pino, overnighting in beach and coastal car parks is forbidden in summer and is checked; protection rules apply in the dune areas. The military area at Capo Teulada may not be entered.
- Insider tip for campers
- Before heading to the dunes of Porto Pino, find out about closing times due to military exercises; the municipality and the military publish the times. You can refuel and shop in Pula or Teulada; after that the choice gets thin. The beaches of Chia are overcrowded in summer, so come early.
2Stage 2: Porto Pino to Sant’Antioco (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- From Porto Pino take the SS195 and the country road via Giba and Sant’Anna Arresi west, then over the causeway onto the island of Sant’Antioco. The road is mostly well built, with salt pans and lagoons; about 1 hour. On the island the roads are narrow but paved.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Sant’Antioco, the second-largest island of Sardinia, with the Basilica di Sant’Antioco, the catacombs and the tophet, a Phoenician cult site.
- Salt pans and lagoons in the Sulcis with flamingos, especially in winter and spring.
- Calasetta, a harbour village with a Ligurian character, in the north of the island.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: On Sant’Antioco and near Calasetta there are campsites, including Camping Le Saline listed in map data (check whether it is open beforehand), with electric hook-up, sanitary facilities and waste disposal; season mostly spring to autumn. Reserve in advance in high season (July and August).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Sant’Antioco, overnighting in beach and harbour car parks is forbidden in summer or is checked; camping is not allowed in the lagoon protected areas.
- Insider tip for campers
- The catacombs and the tophet in Sant’Antioco can be visited; check opening times and tickets in advance. Byssus, fine sea-silk weaving, is a local craft tradition. Buy supplies in Sant’Antioco before you take the ferry to Carloforte.
3Stage 3: Sant’Antioco to Carloforte (San Pietro) (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- From Sant’Antioco along the island road to Calasetta, then by ferry (about 30 minutes) to Carloforte on the island of San Pietro. The road is well built; the ferry takes vehicles. In season long queues form; check departure times and vehicle fares with the operator in advance, and booking is advisable.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Carloforte with the Ligurian old town, founded by emigrants from Tabarka in the 18th century, and the Tabarchino dialect.
- Tuna fishing (mattanza) as a historic tradition; the Girotonno festival takes place in spring.
- Coast road around San Pietro with viewpoints, the rocks of Le Colonne and beaches such as La Caletta.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: On San Pietro there are only a few sites for motorhomes; check locations and terms in the apps and call. Many travellers leave the motorhome on Sant’Antioco or at Calasetta and take the ferry as foot passengers.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On San Pietro, overnighting in a motorhome in public car parks is forbidden or severely restricted; the town carries out checks in season.
- Insider tip for campers
- Consider leaving the motorhome on the mainland: the lanes of Carloforte are narrow and parking is limited. There is also a ferry connection between Portovesme and Carloforte (about 30 to 40 minutes); check timetables in advance. Try tuna and cascà (Ligurian-Sardinian couscous) in the trattorie.
4Stage 4: Carloforte to Iglesias (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Carloforte take the ferry to Portovesme, then via Portoscuso and Gonnesa on the SS126 to Iglesias. The road is wide and well built, but with industrial plants and lorry traffic; about 1 hour. In season the ferry is the bottleneck.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Portoscuso with the Torre Spagnola and the tonnara, a former tuna factory.
- Iglesias with the cathedral, the church of Santa Chiara, remains of the town wall and the mineral museum.
- Viewpoints over the coast of the Iglesiente, especially at sunset.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Around Iglesias and Gonnesa there are campsites and aree di sosta, including, according to map data, Camper Area Parco Monte Atzei; electric hook-up and waste disposal are not available everywhere. Season mostly spring to autumn; call in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Iglesias, overnighting in a motorhome in public car parks in the old town is restricted; on the coast at Gonnesa and Fontanamare, bans apply in summer.
- Insider tip for campers
- Iglesias is a good place for shopping and waste disposal before the coastal stretch. The Iglesiente is part of the UNESCO Geopark of Sardinia (Geopark Storico Minerario); many mine visits are possible only with a guide. Check opening times and registration in advance.
5Stage 5: Iglesias to Buggerru (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Iglesias take the SP83 via Nebida and Masua along the coast to Buggerru. The road is narrow, twisty, with gradients and viewpoints on the rocks; about 1.5 hours. It is demanding for large motorhomes and combinations, and there is little room for oncoming traffic.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Nebida with the belvedere and the Laveria Lamarmora, a mining plant on the cliff above the sea.
- Masua with the rock stack Pan di Zucchero (Sugarloaf) off the coast and the Porto Flavia gallery, which loaded ore directly onto ships; visit only with a guide.
- Buggerru with the mining museum, the Galleria Henry and the harbour.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Buggerru there are campsites and pitches, including, according to map data, the Sosta Camper Buggerru and the Area Camper San Nicolò, as well as Camping Ortus de Mari near Portixeddu; electric hook-up, sanitary facilities and waste disposal are not available everywhere. Season mostly spring to autumn.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Along the coast road and on the beaches of Masua and Buggerru, overnighting in a motorhome at viewpoint car parks is forbidden in summer or is checked; the area is partly a protected area.
- Insider tip for campers
- The SP83 has tight bends and some rockfall; drive slowly. Porto Flavia can only be visited with a guide and advance registration; access is through a gallery. The wind on the coast is strong; secure your awning and tent.
6Stage 6: Buggerru to Piscinas (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Buggerru via Portixeddu and Ingurtosu to the coast at Piscinas; the last section runs along an unpaved gravel track (about 8 km) from the mining village of Ingurtosu to the beach. The track is feasible for cars, but not suitable for large motorhomes and combinations; about 1 to 1.5 hours. Ask the municipality and park about condition and access in advance.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Dune di Piscinas, one of the highest dune landscapes in Europe, with dunes about 60 metres high, in the Costa Verde area.
- Ingurtosu with the abandoned mining village and the Palazzo della Direzione.
- Portixeddu beach on the coast road, with a view of the mountains of the Iglesiente.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: At Piscinas there are no campsites for large motorhomes; overnight stays are possible at agriturismi or campsites near Buggerru and Portixeddu, partly with access over narrow roads. Call in advance and give your vehicle length.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the dune area of Piscinas and Costa Verde, camping outside sites is forbidden; the area is protected, fires are forbidden, and the car parks are checked.
- Insider tip for campers
- The access to Piscinas is unpaved; go with a smaller vehicle or walk from Ingurtosu if your motorhome is too big. Take enough water, as the dunes have no shade. Driving and camping on the dunes are forbidden, so stay on the paths.
7Stage 7: Piscinas to Arbus (Montevecchio) (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Piscinas back via Ingurtosu and the Montevecchio mining district to Arbus, on provincial roads through hills with maquis and cork oaks. The roads are twisty, partly narrow; about 1 hour. Ask about the condition in advance.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Montevecchio, one of the largest mining complexes in Sardinia, with administrative buildings and shafts, partly accessible on guided tours.
- Arbus with the old town and the knife-makers, known for the Arburesa knives.
- Hiking trails in the hinterland of the Costa Verde with a view of maquis and coast.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In and around Arbus there are agriturismi and small sites; check locations in the apps and call. Sites with electric hook-up, sanitary facilities and waste disposal are rare.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the hinterland, free camping outside the sites is not provided for; in the forest-fire season (mostly June to October), stricter fire bans apply. Quiet car parks on the edge of villages are sometimes tolerated, so ask in advance.
- Insider tip for campers
- Montevecchio is part of the Geopark of Sardinia; guided tours take place at fixed times, so check in advance. Arbus is known for knives; buy from a knife-maker on the spot. From Arbus you reach the SS131 and the onward route to Oristano or Cagliari.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law distinguishes parking (“sosta”) from camping (“campeggio”): where parking is allowed, a motorhome may stand and also be overnighted in, as long as it stands only on its wheels. Awning, table, chairs, supports and drained grey water are forbidden.
- In Sardinia, free camping outside sites is largely forbidden under regional and municipal rules; in the Sulcis and Iglesiente many municipalities ban overnighting in beach and coastal car parks in season. Fines and towing are possible.
- In protected areas (dunes of Piscinas and Porto Pino, lagoons, Costa Verde) their own rules apply: vehicles only on designated areas, no fire, no taking away sand, stones or plants; entering the military area near Teulada is forbidden. In the forest-fire season (mostly June to October), stricter fire bans apply.
- Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact and CamperOnline. Aree di sosta in the south-west are seasonal, so call in advance.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Water supply and waste disposal is called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. In the south-west there are stations mainly at campsites and aree attrezzate; on the Costa Verde they are rare.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at disposal stations; wild dumping leads to bans and fines.
- Drinking water from taps is mostly drinkable, but look for “acqua potabile”; in summer there can be water restrictions, so fill the tank before the coastal stages.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Italy. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at GPL petrol stations with the Italian adapter; arrive with two full cylinders.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, expressways 110 km/h, motorway 130 km/h; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas, motorway 100 km/h. Caravan combinations 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on the motorway. Dipped headlights outside built-up areas, also during the day.
- ZTLs (Zona a Traffico Limitato) with camera monitoring exist in Cagliari, Iglesias and Carloforte; fines often arrive by post months later.
- Tolls: Sardinia’s state roads (SS195, SS126, SS131) are toll-free. Ferries to Carloforte are chargeable; give vehicle lengths and heights when booking, and reserve well in advance in high season.
- On coast roads such as the SP83 and on gravel tracks (Piscinas), road width and surface are limiting; find out in advance about height and width restrictions and access rules.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, for example bikes on a carrier, the red-and-white warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is mandatory. Alcohol limit 0.5, for novice and professional drivers 0.0; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Sturdy footwear and headwear for dunes and mining paths; sand and heat in summer.
- Enough drinking water (at least 3 litres per person): on the Costa Verde and in the dunes there is hardly any shade and no supplies.
- Windproof jacket and tent pegs with storm lines: the mistral can blow hard on the west coast.
- Levelling ramps, grade 2–3, for sloping pitches and agricampeggi.
- Red-and-white warning panel to Italian standard for rear carriers or overhanging boxes.
- Head torch for visits to mine galleries and catacombs, if guided tours require it.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
