In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 1,200 kilometres in the footsteps of the 1898 gold seekers: from the Yukon River at Whitehorse via Carcross and the Five Finger Rapids to the wooden boardwalks of Dawson City and up into the Tombstone Mountains on the Dempster Highway.
The spirit of the route
In the Yukon it never gets dark in June. At midnight golden light lies on Fox Lake, the kettle hums, and outside the sliding door black spruce stand as thick and thin as fence posts. The North Klondike Highway runs 530 kilometres north, mostly shared with a few pick-ups, logging trucks and motorhomes with Alaska plates. Between the settlements there is often more than a hundred kilometres of forest, burn areas full of fireweed, and again and again the Yukon River, where a good 125 years ago thousands drifted towards Dawson in home-built boats. The town at the end looks as if the gold rush had only paused: gravel streets, wooden sidewalks, crooked houses on permafrost. Beyond it the Dempster Highway begins, and after 70 kilometres of gravel the black granite teeth of the Tombstone Range rise above the tundra. Anyone driving here plans fuel, water and a place for the night themselves – and gets silence, space and campfire wood from the territory in return.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Whitehorse to Carcross and Conrad (Tagish Lake) (approx. 100 km)
- The drive
- Spend the morning in Whitehorse on the Yukon River, then head south on the Alaska Highway and onto the South Klondike Highway (Hwy 2) towards Carcross: a well-built paved road through open pine forest, past lakes and sand dunes, and finally along the shore of Windy Arm. About 1.5 hours of pure driving time; with a town programme, a full day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Miles Canyon south of the centre: a basalt gorge on the Yukon River with the Robert Lowe Suspension Bridge and riverside paths; for the gold seekers of 1898 the canyon was one of the most feared spots.
- S.S. Klondike National Historic Site on the riverbank: the sternwheeler is being restored until at least 2029 and cannot be entered, but the grounds, information panels and the restored Atlin barge stay open during the season.
- Emerald Lake (about 11 km before Carcross) with green-turquoise water over marl bottom, plus the Carcross Desert, a small dune field right by the road.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Conrad Campground (Yukon Government) south of Carcross on Windy Arm of Tagish Lake: 35 sites, a few of them pull-through, some walk-in tent sites, pit toilets, fire pits, firewood, no hook-ups and no drinking water. In Whitehorse itself: Wolf Creek Campground (Yukon Government) on the Alaska Highway south of town, 46 sites, bookable at yukon.goingtocamp.com; the municipal Robert Service Campground is geared towards tents.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Camping on public land is allowed in the Yukon without a permit, at least 30 m from the centre of the road (45 m on the Alaska Highway). Around Carcross, however, much of the land is Settlement Land of the Carcross/Tagish First Nation – there only with permission. In Whitehorse, sleeping in a vehicle on public streets is discouraged; supermarket car parks only with the store's consent.
- Insider tip for campers
- Buy supplies for the whole trip in Whitehorse, fill propane and fill the tank: it is the last town with a large selection and the best prices. The access to the Miles Canyon car park is narrow and winding; with a large motorhome arrive early or park at Schwatka Lake.
2Stage 2: Conrad to Twin Lakes (North Klondike Highway) (approx. 220 km)
- The drive
- Back north via Carcross to the Alaska Highway, through Whitehorse and, just north of the city, onto the North Klondike Highway (Hwy 2). From here it is two lanes, paved or with chipseal surface, speed usually 90 km/h, long straights through spruce forest and over burn areas. About 3 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Takhini Hot Springs Road just after the turn-off: Yukon Wildlife Preserve with muskoxen, caribou and lynx in large enclosures, plus the thermal pools of Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs.
- Lake Laberge – the lake from Robert Service's poem “The Cremation of Sam McGee”, reached by a spur road to the campground of the same name with a boat ramp.
- Fox Lake: a long, clear lake beside the highway, with the burn area of the 1998 wildfire and dense regrowth at its northern end.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Twin Lakes Campground (Yukon Government) on the highway between Fox Lake and Carmacks: 31 sites, some pull-through, boat ramp, firewood, pit toilets, no hook-ups. Alternatives: Fox Lake Campground (43 sites, partly reservable in 2026) or the smaller Lake Laberge Campground (16 sites) at the end of a spur road.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Along the North Klondike Highway there are gravel pits and old road sections that travellers use for overnight stops. Legally the 30-metre rule applies on public land; at signed rest areas stop only if no ban is posted. No fire during a fire ban, take your rubbish with you.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Braeburn Lodge, for decades a stop for cinnamon buns and fuel, has been closed indefinitely since the end of May 2026 – so between Whitehorse and Carmacks (about 175 km) there is no longer a reliable fuel station. Fill up before the turn-off in Whitehorse and stock up on fresh water, because Yukon campgrounds do not supply drinking water.
3Stage 3: Twin Lakes to Tatchun Creek (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- A short stage: downhill into the Yukon River valley at Carmacks, then north along the river. The road gets wavier, and frost heaves announce themselves with small flags or signs. A good 1 hour of pure driving time, leaving time for walks.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Carmacks: boardwalk on the Yukon River and the Tagé Cho Hudän Interpretive Centre of the Little Salmon/Carmacks First Nation (open seasonally).
- Five Finger Rapids Recreation Site: a viewing platform above the four rock pillars in the Yukon River, a long wooden staircase and a path lead down almost to the shore – for sternwheelers this was the most dangerous spot between Whitehorse and Dawson.
- Tatchun Creek in late summer: king salmon come here to spawn, and bears are on the move too.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Tatchun Creek Campground (Yukon Government) just past the Five Finger Rapids: 12 sites, some pull-through, cooking shelter, firewood, pit toilets, no drinking water. If you need electricity or showers: private RV sites in Carmacks.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At Tatchun Creek Campground the Frenchman Road branches off; after about 9 km of winding gravel you reach Tatchun Lake Campground (Yukon Government, 20 sites, no pull-through sites, regular fee) – better suited to smaller vehicles and a dry road. Check road conditions beforehand.
- Insider tip for campers
- Refuel and shop in Carmacks – it is the most important supply point on the route. The stairs at the Five Finger Rapids are long and steep: wear sturdy footwear and bring insect repellent; in June and July a head net is best.
4Stage 4: Tatchun Creek to Moose Creek (near Stewart Crossing) (approx. 180 km)
- The drive
- Through hilly woodland via Minto to Pelly Crossing, then along the Pelly River and over extensive burn areas to Stewart Crossing. Asphalt with potholes and frost heaves, in places roadworks with gravel and dust. About 2.5 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Minto: a former stopping and wood-loading place for the sternwheelers on the Yukon River.
- Pelly Crossing: a settlement of the Selkirk First Nation with a bridge over the Pelly River and the Big Jonathan House as a cultural centre (opening hours seasonal).
- Stewart River at Stewart Crossing – the start of the Silver Trail and an old transfer point for the sternwheelers.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Moose Creek Campground (Yukon Government) about 20 km beyond Stewart Crossing: 36 sites, some pull-through, cooking shelter, hiking trail to the Stewart River, firewood. Alternatively Ethel Lake Campground on a narrow, winding spur road – unsuitable for large motorhomes.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Pelly Crossing and Stewart Crossing there is a lot of First Nations Settlement Land; do not stay overnight there on your own initiative. Along the burn areas to the north there are gravel areas on public land – observe the 30-metre rule and fire bans.
- Insider tip for campers
- Use the fuel stops in Pelly Crossing and Stewart Crossing even if the tank is still half full: opening hours are limited, and from Stewart Crossing it is still about 180 km to Dawson. On burn areas and in roadworks, switch your lights on and keep your distance – stones thrown up by oncoming traffic are the most common cause of windscreen damage on gravel.
5Stage 5: Moose Creek to Mayo and Keno City (Silver Trail) (approx. 130 km)
- The drive
- Back to Stewart Crossing and onto the Silver Trail (Hwy 11) to the north-east: paved as far as Mayo, then gravel through the hills of the old silver district to Keno City. Very little traffic, moose at the ponds. About 2 hours of pure driving time one way.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Mayo on the Stewart River: a small community of the First Nation of Na-Cho Nyäk Dun with Binet House (local museum, seasonal) and a riverside dyke.
- Keno City Mining Museum in the old Jackson’s Saloon and the derelict mine buildings around the town.
- Keno Hill with the famous signpost on the summit – the steep gravel track up is suitable only for four-wheel-drive vehicles and in dry weather, not for motorhomes.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Keno City Campground (community site) on the edge of town with about 18 sites, simply equipped. Five Mile Lake Campground (Yukon Government) north of Mayo with 26 sites and a swimming beach – in 2026 staffed and with an open gate only from 8 May to 20 September, closed afterwards; check the dates for 2027. In Mayo there are also small free community sites.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Keno, much of the land is taken up by mining claims or active mines; stay only on clearly public land and respect mine access roads and claims. The community sites in Mayo are the simpler, legal solution.
- Insider tip for campers
- Refuel in Mayo – Keno City has no fuel station. The gravel road to Keno gets slippery after rain; motorhomes with a large overhang should stop at Mayo. If you want to save time, do the Silver Trail as a day trip and continue towards Dawson the same day.
6Stage 6: Keno City to Dawson City (approx. 285 km)
- The drive
- Back via Mayo to Stewart Crossing and on along the North Klondike Highway to the north: long climbs, wide views over valleys and the Tintina Trench, and finally down into the Klondike River valley with the spoil heaps of the gold dredges. Frost heaves and patched sections, speed usually 90 km/h. Just under 4 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Tintina Trench Viewpoint: a view of one of the largest geological faults in North America, which runs for hundreds of kilometres through the Yukon.
- Dempster Corner, the junction with the Dempster Highway about 40 km before Dawson – starting point for stage 8.
- Tailings along the Klondike River: kilometres of gravel ridges left behind by the gold dredges.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Klondike River Campground (Yukon Government) about 20 km before Dawson near the airfield: 35 sites, a few pull-through sites, firewood, quiet by the river. Or Yukon River Campground (Yukon Government) in West Dawson on the other side of the river: a good 100 sites, including about 20 pull-through sites, reachable only by ferry. With electricity, showers and a sani-dump: the private RV parks in town and on Bonanza Creek.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Wild camping is not provided for within Dawson's town limits, and the surrounding land is largely occupied by mining claims and Settlement Land of the Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in. Yukon River Campground is the nature-oriented, legal alternative directly opposite the town.
- Insider tip for campers
- Dawson has gravel streets and wooden sidewalks – park large vehicles at the edge of town or by the river and walk. Tickets for the Parks Canada tours are available at the Visitor Information Centre at the corner of Front Street and King Street.
7Stage 7: Dawson City to Bonanza Creek, Midnight Dome and West Dawson (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- A loop day around Dawson: up the Bonanza Creek Road into the gold field, then the steep, winding road up the Midnight Dome and, in the evening, across the Yukon River on the George Black Ferry. Few kilometres, lots of time on foot.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Dredge No. 4 National Historic Site on the Bonanza Creek Road: one of the largest wooden-hulled gold dredges in North America, Parks Canada tours from about May to September; check dates and the end of the season beforehand. A little further on, the Discovery Claim, where it all began in 1896.
- Midnight Dome: a viewpoint hill above the town with a view of the confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers and across to the Top of the World Highway; at the summer solstice you can barely see the sun set here.
- The historic old town as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Tr’ondëk-Klondike: Dänojà Zho Cultural Centre, Robert Service Cabin, Palace Grand Theatre and the S.S. Keno on the waterfront.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: A second night at Yukon River Campground in West Dawson – close to the ferry and in the evening with a view of the town's lights – or again at Klondike River Campground.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the Midnight Dome too, sleeping in the viewpoint car park is not a legal option; there is often activity there at night, and the area is small.
- Insider tip for campers
- The George Black Ferry across the Yukon is free and runs around the clock during the season (roughly mid-May to mid-October), first come, first served; expect a wait at busy times, and short maintenance breaks and adjustments at the end of the season are possible. The Midnight Dome road is steep – with a trailer or long motorhome, better to unhitch or park at the bottom. Before moving on, fill up with fuel and water and empty your tanks in Dawson.
8Stage 8: Dawson City to Tombstone Territorial Park (Dempster Highway) (approx. 115 km)
- The drive
- About 40 km back to Dempster Corner, then onto the Dempster Highway (Hwy 5): from here gravel, narrow, with sharp-edged chip, slippery when wet, dusty when dry. The road climbs out of the forest into the North Klondike River valley and opens out onto the tundra. About 2 hours of pure driving time, speed according to road condition. Return to Whitehorse on the same route (about 560 km from Tombstone, allow two days).
- Highlights & must-sees
- Tombstone Interpretive Centre at the campground (in 2026 open daily 9 am–5 pm from 16 May to 20 September): exhibition on permafrost, tundra and Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in culture, advice on hikes.
- Grizzly Lake Trail or Goldensides Trail for hikes with a view of Tombstone Mountain; in August the tundra turns red.
- North Fork Pass north of the campground: a watershed with a wide view over the tundra, with a chance of Dall sheep and caribou.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Tombstone Mountain Campground (Yukon Government) at Dempster km 72: 51 sites, one of them a pull-through site, cooking shelter, bear-proof food lockers, fire pits, amphitheatre; no drinking water – bring water. Some of the sites can be reserved at yukon.goingtocamp.com, the rest fill up early in summer. Staffed in 2026 from 8 May to 1 October, the gate stays open afterwards.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Tombstone Territorial Park every overnight stay requires a reservation or permit (campground, reserved backcountry sites or a general permit from the park administration); overnighting at the roadside of the Dempster is prohibited in the park. Outside the park there are some gravel areas on public land along the Dempster; the 30-metre rule applies here too.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up before the Dempster – fuel at the junction at Dempster Corner is not always guaranteed, and the next fuel station to the north comes only at Eagle Plains. Carry at least one full-size spare wheel, do not run tyre pressure too high, and slow down for oncoming traffic. Many rental contracts exclude the Dempster: check beforehand. Alternative for the return to Alaska: the Top of the World Highway (gravel, narrow, no guardrails) via the Little Gold Creek/Poker Creek border crossing – open only in the summer season and only during the day (2026: 22 May to 15 September, 9 am–7 pm Yukon time; planned reopening 21 May 2027).
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Camping on public land (often called Crown Land) is allowed in the Yukon without a permit. Requirement: at least 30 m from the centre of the road, 45 m on the Alaska Highway; on private land and on First Nations Settlement Land only with permission. Campfires for cooking and warmth are allowed, except during a fire ban.
- Yukon Government campgrounds: self-registration at the info kiosk – fill in the form, put the fee in the envelope, attach the tag to the site post. Payment is in cash on site (2026: 20 CAD per night) or cheaper with a camping voucher bought in advance or by online reservation (18 CAD). Fees apply from 1 May to 30 September; outside this period there is no fee, but usually no service, and some campgrounds close their gate.
- Reservations in 2026 at yukon.goingtocamp.com or by phone for Wolf Creek, Marsh Lake, Pine Lake, Tombstone Mountain, Kusawa Lake and Fox Lake (for the period 8 May to 1 October); about half of the sites remain first come, first served. Guests with reservations check in online.
- Campground rules: a maximum of 14 nights within 28 days, quiet hours 11 pm to 7 am, petrol generators only 9–11 am and 5–8 pm, dogs on a leash, burn firewood only on the site and do not take it with you.
- Bears: black bears and grizzlies live along the entire route. At night, put food, cooler, dishes, dog food and cosmetics in the closed vehicle or in the bear-proof lockers; carry bear spray within easy reach. Put rubbish only in the bear-proof containers.
- Wildfire: check fire bans and current fires at yukon.ca and via 511yukon.ca; smoke can severely affect visibility and roads in high summer, and closures are possible.
- Useful apps and sites: iOverlander, Park4Night, Campendium; campground status at yukon.ca, road conditions, roadworks and ferry status at 511yukon.ca.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Fuel stations: Whitehorse, Carmacks, Pelly Crossing, Stewart Crossing, Mayo and Dawson City. Since the closure of the Braeburn Lodge (end of May 2026) there are about 175 km between Whitehorse and Carmacks without a reliable fuel stop; in the small settlements opening hours are limited. Rule of thumb: refuel from half a tank.
- Drinking water: Yukon Parks does not supply drinking water at its campgrounds; any well or pump water is expressly not designated as drinking water. Fill your tank in Whitehorse, Carmacks or Dawson, and filter and boil stream and lake water – mineral-rich water such as at Tombstone cannot be fully purified this way.
- Sani-dumps: mainly at private RV parks and some fuel stations in Whitehorse, Carmacks and Dawson City, usually for a fee. The government campgrounds generally have no disposal. By law, RV waste water may be disposed of only at approved stations.
- Propane in Whitehorse and Dawson City at fuel stations and specialist dealers. Canada uses North American fittings; European gas bottles are usually not refilled, and rental vehicles have permanently installed tanks.
- Shopping: large supermarkets only in Whitehorse; Carmacks, Mayo and Dawson have smaller shops with higher prices and a limited range of fresh produce.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in km/h: on the Klondike Highway usually 90, much lower in settlements and roadworks; on the Alaska Highway 100 in sections. There are no separate limits for motorhomes or combinations – the signs apply.
- Lights on: in the Yukon you must drive with dipped headlights even by day, unless the vehicle has automatic daytime running lights; dipped headlights make sense on gravel and in dust anyway.
- Frost heaves and potholes: marked by small flags or signs; reduce speed in good time, especially with a trailer. Roadworks with gravel, dust and pilot vehicles are the norm in summer.
- Gravel roads: the Silver Trail beyond Mayo, the Dempster Highway and the Top of the World Highway are unpaved. Rental contracts often exclude such routes – check beforehand. Dempster status and Tombstone conditions at 511yukon.ca.
- George Black Ferry in Dawson: free, season roughly mid-May to mid-October, around the clock, vehicles up to 25 m in length; no reservations.
- Border to Alaska via the Top of the World Highway (Little Gold Creek/Poker Creek): only in summer and only during the day, in 2026 from 22 May to 15 September, 9 am–7 pm Yukon time (closed since then, planned reopening 21 May 2027); the alternative crossing is Beaver Creek on the Alaska Highway; in summer Alaska is one hour behind the Yukon. Passport and US entry authorisation (ESTA or I-94) required – check current rules with CBP. No tolls, no low-emission zones, no winter tyre requirement – in autumn winter tyres are nevertheless strongly recommended.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Bear spray with holster, buy it in Whitehorse – it is not allowed in hold luggage and belongs on every hike.
- Head net for mosquitoes and fly screens for windows and sliding door: in June and July mosquitoes and black flies are a real plague at lakes and on the tundra.
- Fresh-water canister (20 l) and water filter: no Yukon Government campground supplies drinking water.
- Second spare wheel or a tyre repair kit with compressor for the Dempster and the Top of the World Highway – the sharp-edged gravel slits sidewalls.
- Blackout curtains or a sleep mask for the midnight sun; in late summer, conversely, warm layers for night frost.
- Offline maps and the campground map from yukon.ca – between the settlements there is no mobile reception over long stretches.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
