In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
Across Hecate Strait from Prince Rupert to Graham Island: an archipelago where Haida culture, rainforest and endless beaches shape your destination.
The spirit of the route
Haida Gwaii is an archipelago you have to work for. The ferry from Prince Rupert takes around seven to eight hours to cross Hecate Strait, salt wind blows on deck, whales appear on the horizon, and at some point the green silhouette of Graham Island lies ahead of the bow. On land there is a single continuous road, Highway 16, with coastal rainforest, moss and ferns growing along its edges. In Naikoon there are long sandy beaches where driftwood lies about like sculptures, and at Tow Hill a basalt rock rises above the surf. Haida culture here is not a backdrop but everyday life: the Haida Heritage Centre near Skidegate, totem poles and the stories of the Watchmen shape the island. The camper stands on simple campgrounds under spruces, it likes to rain at night, and in the morning mist drifts between the trunks. If you want to understand the archipelago, allow time, book the ferry early and stay flexible, because the weather decides.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Prince Rupert to Skidegate (ferry) (approx. 140 km)
- The drive
- The BC Ferries crossing from Prince Rupert over Hecate Strait to Skidegate takes around seven to eight hours, longer depending on weather and sea; the frequency of sailings depends on the season, so check the timetable with BC Ferries. A reservation is required or strongly recommended for vehicles (check the conditions with BC Ferries), and in high season it is often booked out months ahead. For rental motorhomes, clarify the ferry conditions with the rental company beforehand. The strait can be rough, and sailings are cancelled in storms.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Prince Rupert: a harbour town with a museum and a visitor centre on the waterfront, good for an afternoon before the crossing. Check opening times beforehand.
- Crossing Hecate Strait: whales, seabirds and coastlines can be seen from the deck, and binoculars are worthwhile.
- Skidegate Landing: arrival on Graham Island, the harbour lies directly on Highway 16.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Prince Rupert, for the night before the ferry, there is the Prince Rupert RV Campground (formerly Park Avenue Campground, 1750 Park Avenue; the campground changes owner in September 2026, and according to the announcement it continues to operate; check reservations and opening times in advance). On Haida Gwaii itself, campgrounds are available in Daajing Giids (Queen Charlotte) and in Naikoon Provincial Park. Plan the ferry reservation and the campground booking at the same time.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Prince Rupert and at the ferry terminal, overnighting in car parks is not allowed. On Haida Gwaii there are a few recreation sites on Crown land; clarify the rules for foreign visitors and the access roads locally.
- Insider tip for campers
- Book the ferry early, confirm the departure time the day before and arrive with plenty of buffer. Buy groceries and fuel beforehand, as on the island prices are higher and the selection smaller. A warm jumper and travel-sickness tablets make sense on board.
2Stage 2: Skidegate to Tlell and Port Clements (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- From the ferry terminal, Highway 16 leads north along the east coast: two lanes, partly narrow, speeds mostly 80–90 km/h, with wildlife crossings and rain. The forest is dense, and the landscape changes only slowly. The pure driving time is about 1–1.5 hours to Port Clements, without stops. Petrol stations in Daajing Giids, Skidegate and Masset; in between, supplies are thin.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay (Skidegate): museum, totem poles and Haida art; check admission and opening times beforehand. Half a day is worthwhile.
- Tlell and the Tlell River: wide beaches and paths by the sea, driftwood and open space.
- Golden Spruce Trail near Port Clements: a hiking trail to the spot where the famous golden spruce stood; information on its history there.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Naikoon Provincial Park is the centre for campers: Misty Meadows Campground on the east coast and Agate Beach Campground in the north. Both are simple, with pit toilets and seasonal water; payment at the campground in cash only, no internet connection. Clarify with BC Parks in advance whether sites can be reserved or are allocated only on arrival; check the length limit. Alternative: private campgrounds in Daajing Giids.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping is not allowed in the provincial parks. There are recreation sites on forest roads on Haida Gwaii, and their condition varies greatly; check rules, tides and fire bans.
- Insider tip for campers
- Bring cash, as many places do not accept cards. Buy all supplies for several days in Daajing Giids. Expect rain and keep a tarp for the pitch in the car.
3Stage 3: Port Clements to Masset and Tow Hill (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- Highway 16 continues north to Masset, after which a paved coastal road leads east to Tow Hill in Naikoon Provincial Park. The route is narrow, with wildlife crossings and occasional potholes. Driving time is about 1.5 hours. Masset has a petrol station and shops, after that very little.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Tow Hill and Blow Hole: a boardwalk through coastal forest to a basalt rock with views of the beaches; good for 1–2 hours.
- Agate Beach: a long beach with driftwood, shells and wind, at the edge of the campground. Mind the tides, as sandbanks can be cut off.
- Masset and Old Masset: a village with Haida art and totem poles; visit with respect for the community.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Agate Beach Campground in Naikoon Provincial Park: a forest campground directly behind the dunes, simple sites, pit toilets, seasonal water; payment in cash. Clarify with BC Parks in advance whether sites can be reserved; check the length limit. The campground is stormy, so levelling wedges and firm securing are useful.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping is prohibited in Naikoon Provincial Park; on Crown land there are only a few rec sites. Beach fires only where permitted, and only with attention to the tides.
- Insider tip for campers
- Start early at Tow Hill, before the car parks fill up. Plan beach walks only with a tide table; if you turn your back on the sea, you can be surprised by waves. Fill up with water beforehand, as none is available on the beach.
4Stage 4: Masset to Daajing Giids (Queen Charlotte) (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- Return on Highway 16 southwards, in about 1.5–2 hours of driving. The road remains two-lane and winding; Rennell Sound Road, a turn-off on the west coast, is gravel, steep and hardly suitable for motorhomes. Daajing Giids is the island’s service centre, with a petrol station, supermarket and garage.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Haida Gwaii Museum / Haida Heritage Centre: on the way back, for whatever was not possible on the first visit.
- Spirit Lake and hiking trails near Daajing Giids: short paths through rainforest.
- Evening mood at Skidegate Inlet: harbour, fishing boats and eagles, time for a walk.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In and around Daajing Giids there are simple campgrounds; private campgrounds are common and often the most reliable choice for campers. Check opening times and hook-ups in advance; book early in high summer. Alternatively, go back to Naikoon.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Recreation sites on Crown land exist in places, with access often over gravel; check the rules for foreign visitors.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel, top up water and replenish supplies before the ferry trip. Drive Rennell Sound only with an off-road-capable vehicle and after checking its condition.
5Stage 5: Skidegate to Sandspit and Gwaii Haanas (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- From Skidegate, take the short ferry to Alliford Bay on Moresby Island and continue along the coastal road to Sandspit, the gateway to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve and Haida Heritage Site. The park can only be reached by boat, floatplane or guided tour; there is no road to it. Check the ferry timetable beforehand. Parks Canada requires a reservation and an orientation; check prices and rules with Parks Canada.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve: UNESCO World Heritage Site with SGang Gwaay and Hot Spring Island; visits only with a reservation and orientation, best with licensed tour operators.
- Sandspit: a small village with an airfield, harbour and viewpoints.
- Haida Watchmen: guardians at the sites who provide information and rules; respect and restraint are expected.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: On Moresby Island the choice is small; campers can use private campgrounds in Sandspit or stay on Graham Island. The campsites in Gwaii Haanas are meant for kayakers and sailors, not for motorhomes. Check the status and reservations in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Moresby Island and in Gwaii Haanas, free camping with a vehicle is not provided for; rules apply in the park that are binding through Parks Canada.
- Insider tip for campers
- Book Gwaii Haanas in good time, as places are limited. The best way to get there is a guided tour from Sandspit or Moresby Camp; allow for weather windows, as trips are cancelled.
6Stage 6: Skidegate to Prince Rupert (ferry) (approx. 140 km)
- The drive
- Return on the BC Ferries ferry from Skidegate to Prince Rupert, around seven to eight hours, longer depending on weather. Book the reservation for the return trip together with the outward trip. Check departure times before setting off and the day before.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Farewell to Haida Gwaii: whales and seabirds on Hecate Strait.
- Prince Rupert: a walk along the harbour, the museum, fish by the water.
- Highway 16 from Prince Rupert: the start of the Yellowhead Highway eastwards.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Prince Rupert RV Campground (formerly Park Avenue Campground; check status) or another campground in the area for the night after the ferry. Reserve in advance; booked out early in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Not allowed in Prince Rupert; outside the city recreation sites are possible, observing the rules.
- Insider tip for campers
- After the return crossing, fill up with fuel and water in Prince Rupert before continuing east on Highway 16. Expect ferry delays and do not plan tight connections.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In British Columbia, camping on Crown land is usually possible for up to 14 days in one place for Canadians. Special rules apply to visitors from abroad, which must be clarified with Recreation Sites and Trails BC. On Haida Gwaii, provincial parks and Gwaii Haanas are expressly not intended for free camping.
- Haida culture: Haida Gwaii is home to the Haida Nation; Gwaii Haanas is managed jointly with Parks Canada. Do not touch totem poles, graves and villages, take nothing away, and follow the Watchmen’s instructions.
- Wildlife: black bears occur on the island and are especially common on the coasts, so store food securely at night. Keep your distance from sea lions and seals.
- Tides and beaches: sandbanks are dangerous at high tide, especially on the beaches of Naikoon; never underestimate sneaker waves.
- Useful apps: iOverlander, Campendium, the BC Parks portal and BC Ferries for timetable and ferry status.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations: only occasional, mostly at private campgrounds or municipal campgrounds in Daajing Giids and Masset; check status beforehand. sanidumps.com provides an overview.
- Drinking water: tap water is drinkable; in Naikoon there is seasonal water, and year-round water at the BC Parks headquarters in Tlell. Bring canisters and a filter.
- Empty grey water and chemical toilets only at dump stations, never in the forest or on the beach.
- Propane in Daajing Giids and Masset; European gas cylinders are not compatible.
- Fuel: petrol stations in Daajing Giids, Skidegate, Masset and Sandspit; rare between the settlements. Fill up before longer stretches.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Daajing Giids and Masset, small shops in Tlell and Port Clements; prices are higher than on the mainland. Carry cash.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in km/h: Highway 16 mostly 80–90, in towns 50, on gravel roads 30–60 or lower depending on condition.
- Ferry: BC Ferries Prince Rupert – Skidegate, reservation required or strongly recommended for vehicles; vehicle height and length affect the fare, so check with the operator beforehand. Skidegate – Alliford Bay: a short local ferry.
- Gwaii Haanas: reservation and orientation by Parks Canada required; check fees, dates and conditions with Parks Canada. Visits only by boat, aircraft or tour.
- Naikoon Provincial Park: payment at the campgrounds in cash only; ATVs restricted to beaches; clarify in advance with BC Parks whether sites can be reserved.
- Weather and season: cool and rainy, best time June to September; storms are possible at any time, and the ferry may be cancelled.
- Traffic law: right turn on red after a stop is allowed unless a sign prohibits it; mobile phones at the wheel only hands-free; seat belts and child seats are compulsory in motorhomes too. A German driving licence is sufficient for tourists.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception is limited in large areas, so an emergency plan and an offline map are sensible.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Rain jacket, waterproof trousers and wellington boots – Haida Gwaii is one of the wettest places in Canada.
- Cash in small change – Naikoon campgrounds accept only cash, and showers and small shops sometimes do not take cards.
- Tide table or app – for beach walks, sandbanks and drives to beaches.
- Binoculars for whales and seabirds, plus travel-sickness tablets for the crossing.
- Levelling wedges and sturdy tent pegs – campgrounds by the sea are windy and often sloping.
- Offline map, paper map and printed ferry and campground reservations – mobile reception is patchy.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
