In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 310 km from Lamezia Terme via Pizzo, Tropea and Capo Vaticano on the Costa degli Dei to the Costa Viola with Palmi and Scilla, then up to the Certosa of Serra San Bruno – Calabria's Tyrrhenian coast between white sandy bays, granite cliffs and the Strait of Messina.
The spirit of the route
Calabria begins here with an ice cream in Pizzo and ends in the silence of the Serre forests. In between lies a coast that lives up to its name: the Costa degli Dei, the Coast of the Gods, is a mix of pale sand, granite rocks and limestone terraces, on which Tropea sits like a nest above the sea. In the evening you can see the silhouettes of Stromboli and the other Aeolian Islands from Capo Vaticano, sometimes with a red glow at the summit. The roads are winding, the villages narrow, and the orange and onion fields smell sweet in early summer. Further south, on the Costa Viola, the Aspromonte drops almost vertically into the sea, and vineyard terraces cling to the slopes. In Scilla fishermen's houses stand in the water, and if you are lucky you will see Sicily across the strait in the haze. If you travel outside the Ferragosto weeks, you will have beaches to yourself and pitches with sea views.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Lamezia Terme to Pizzo (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- From Lamezia Terme airport and railway station, follow the SS18 Tirrena Inferiore south, which has been upgraded to a dual carriageway in places, and you reach Pizzo after about 30 minutes. The access to the old town on its tuff spur is steep and narrow; motorhomes stay down on the coast. The route is flat and easy to drive, though at weekends in summer there are queues heading for the beach.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pizzo: Piazza della Repubblica with the ice cream parlours serving the “Tartufo di Pizzo” (PGI), plus the view over the Gulf of Sant’Eufemia.
- Castello Murat above the sea: this is where Joachim Murat was held prisoner and shot in 1815.
- Chiesetta di Piedigrotta: a small grotto church hewn into the tuff, right on the beach.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Between Gizzeria Lido and Pizzo there are several campsites right on the sandy beach, including Camping Ulisse and Campingplatz La Vela near Gizzeria Lido. The sites usually have electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal, and mostly open from spring to autumn; book ahead in July and August.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the beaches of Gizzeria and Pizzo, overnight parking in the car parks is banned in season; the municipalities issue summer ordinances and carry out checks. Plan to spend the night on a campsite.
- Insider tip for campers
- The old town of Pizzo is traffic-calmed with limited access; park down at the harbour (marina) or on the coastal road and walk up. Don't buy your ice cream at lunchtime on the square but early in the morning – the queues are short then. Before you drive on: there are large supermarkets in Pizzo and Vibo, but south of there the choice gets smaller.
2Stage 2: Pizzo to Tropea (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Pizzo the SS522 runs along the sea via Vibo Marina and Briatico to Tropea; between Briatico and Zambrone there are long, quiet bends with views of the coast. From Briatico the road gets narrower, and the villages are long and strung out, with zebra crossings and speed bumps. Allow about an hour, considerably more in August.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Vibo Marina and the small harbour: fishing boats, fish restaurants and a first view of the Tropea headland.
- Zambrone and the bays as far as Capo Vaticano: broad sandy beaches with granite rocks, and seagrass meadows and fish in the water.
- Tropea: Santa Maria dell’Isola on the rock in front of the old town and Corso Vittorio Emanuele with its palazzi.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Tropea and Parghelia you will find Marina dell’Isola (campsite with beach) and the motorhome site Borgo sul Porto, as well as Area Da Ciccio Parking by the sea. Electricity, waste disposal and sanitary facilities are available; for exact facilities and opening times, phone ahead and give your vehicle length. In summer all sites are full.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Within the town of Tropea, restrictions on motorhomes apply in season; the old town is a ZTL, and overnighting is checked at the harbour and on the beaches. If you arrive outside high season, you sometimes find tolerated car parks – only where there is no prohibition sign and without setting up camp.
- Insider tip for campers
- It is best to buy the red onion “Cipolla Rossa di Tropea” (PGI) in early summer from the farmers by the road between Tropea and Ricadi; in the old town, as souvenirs, they usually cost more. The descent to Spiaggia della Rotonda by the steps below the rock is steep. In the early evening Tropea's lanes are pleasantly empty – stay until sunset.
3Stage 3: Tropea to Capo Vaticano (approx. 20 km)
- The drive
- From Tropea via Santa Domenica and Ricadi on the SP22 to the cape: a narrow but well-surfaced road with bends, olive groves and viewpoints. The turn-offs to the beaches are steep and narrow; with large motorhomes, drive only as far as the designated car parks. About 30 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Faro di Capo Vaticano with all-round views: in clear weather you can see Stromboli and the Aeolian Islands.
- Spiaggia di Grotticelle and Torre Ruffa: granite rocks and deep-blue, shallow water, small and fragile.
- Belvedere near Ricadi: views over the coast and the sunset over the sea.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Around Capo Vaticano and Ricadi there are several campsites, including Villaggio Camping La Scogliera, Camping Uliveto, Villaggio Camping Fiorina and Costa Verde. Electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal are mostly available; some sites are on terraces with narrow access roads. The season is mainly May to September; book early in high season.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Capo Vaticano, parking and overnight bans apply in season in the beach and viewpoint car parks, and the municipality of Ricadi carries out checks, especially in August. Tolerated spots are rare.
- Insider tip for campers
- The car parks at the beaches are paid and small in season; get there early or use the shuttle and cycle paths from the campsite. Fresh water and bread are available in Ricadi and in Santa Domenica. In a strong north wind the beaches can get sandstorms and waves – check the weather beforehand.
4Stage 4: Capo Vaticano to Nicotera (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- Via the SS522 and provincial roads through Joppolo and Coccorino to Nicotera: winding and hilly, with olive groves and sea views. The access to the old town of Nicotera is narrow and steep; you reach the marina area via the provincial road. About 45 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Nicotera Superiore: old town on the hill with the cathedral, castle and the panorama over the Gioia Tauro plain.
- Marina di Nicotera: a broad, quiet sandy beach with a view of Stromboli.
- Joppolo and Coccorino: small coastal villages with fishermen and hardly any traffic outside the season.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Nicotera Marina there are several sites: Porta del Sole, Villaggio Camping Mimosa, La Ginestra Club and MARIS Camping Village, most with electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal; ask about opening times beforehand, as they mostly open only in the summer half-year. Being close to the beach is a plus; shaded pitches are limited.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the beach at Nicotera Marina, overnighting in public car parks is banned in season; outside the season quiet car parks are occasionally tolerated, but observe prohibition signs everywhere.
- Insider tip for campers
- Nicotera is a good stop for shopping and refuelling before you head into the Gioia Tauro plain; there are large supermarkets on the SS18 near Rosarno. It is best to visit the old town in the morning, when the light over the sea is clearest.
5Stage 5: Nicotera to Palmi (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- Via Rosarno and Gioia Tauro on the plain, then on the SS18 or the toll-free A2 south to Palmi. This section is flat; on the SS18 it is slow because of villages and roadworks, and the A2 is free but partly has roadworks and speed limits. About an hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Monte Sant’Elia near Palmi: a viewing terrace high above the Strait of Messina, with Etna in the haze.
- Spiaggia della Tonnara with the “Sassi Neri” rocks: dark granite rocks in the sea, hard to reach but scenically impressive.
- Palmi: old town with museums and fish restaurants; the “Varia”, a UNESCO intangible cultural heritage, is celebrated regularly at the end of August.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Palmi, Area attrezzata Prajola (motorhome site with waste disposal), Summerland Palmi, Villaggio Turistico La Quiete and Villaggio Camping Anna offer pitches with electricity and sanitary facilities. Check opening times and fees beforehand; many sites are open only in the summer half-year.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Overnighting is banned in season in the car parks on Monte Sant’Elia and at the beaches of Palmi; outside the season it may be tolerated, but without setting up. The viewing platform is rather lonely at night, so it is better to stay on a campsite.
- Insider tip for campers
- The road to Monte Sant’Elia is steep and narrow, with coaches in summer; go in the morning or take a taxi. The area around Gioia Tauro is an industrial port: drive on without stopping, and do not stop in car parks unless you have to.
6Stage 6: Palmi to Scilla (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- The Costa Viola coastal road (SP1 and SS18) leads via Bagnara Calabra to Scilla: steep, winding sections with tunnels and viewpoints, very narrow in places. Alternatively the A2 is quicker, but without coastal views. About 45 minutes to an hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Scilla: Castello Ruffo on the rock, below it the fishing quarter of Chianalea with houses right in the water.
- Bagnara Calabra: old town with steep lanes and fishermen, known for its swordfish tradition.
- View of the Strait of Messina: in clear weather, Sicily and Etna.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: There are only a few sites near Scilla and Bagnara; Area camper Il Tracciolino on the coastal road between Palmi and Bagnara is a motorhome site with waste disposal (OpenStreetMap entry, check the current status beforehand). Alternatively, drive back north to Palmi. In high summer, only after phoning ahead.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Scilla and Bagnara parking is scarce and overnighting is practically impossible; the old quarter of Chianalea is closed to vehicles. Municipal ordinances are strict.
- Insider tip for campers
- Visit Scilla in the late afternoon, when the day-trippers leave; the fishermen's houses of Chianalea are at their most beautiful in the evening light. Park at the railway station or at Marina Grande and walk. Swordfish (“pesce spada”) is served fresh in the restaurants at the harbour, especially in early summer.
7Stage 7: Scilla to Serra San Bruno (approx. 120 km)
- The drive
- Via the A2 (toll-free) north to the Vibo Valentia exit, then on the SS182 via Vazzano and Soriano Calabro up into the Serre. About 90 kilometres of this is on the motorway, and the last 30 km wind through beech and fir forests at around 800 m altitude. About two to two and a half hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Certosa di Santo Stefano del Bosco near Serra San Bruno: a Carthusian monastery in enclosure; the interior is not open to visitors, but the small museum and the church of Santa Maria del Bosco are.
- Laghetto di Santa Maria: a small forest lake with the statue of Saint Bruno, quiet and shady.
- Parco Naturale Regionale delle Serre: hiking trails through beech forests and to waterfalls.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In and around Serra San Bruno there are only a few options for motorhomes; agriturismi and small aree di sosta are listed in apps such as park4night and CamperOnline, so check their status and facilities beforehand. Alternatively, spend the night on the coast near Pizzo or Tropea.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Serre, the rules of the regional park partly apply; quiet car parks on the edge of Serra San Bruno are sometimes tolerated outside high season. Within the park itself, camping is allowed only in designated areas.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Certosa is a place of silence: phone off, appropriate clothing, no photos in the enclosed area. In high summer it is pleasantly cool in the Serre; in winter there can be snow and winter equipment may be needed. Fill up before the climb at the A2 or in Vibo.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law (Codice della Strada, Art. 185) separates parking from camping: where parking is allowed, a motorhome may stand and also stay overnight, as long as it touches the ground only with its wheels. Chairs, tables, awning, stabilisers, wedges and discharged grey water are prohibited.
- On the Costa degli Dei many municipalities issue additional summer ordinances with parking and overnight bans for motorhomes in beach car parks; checks and fines happen mainly in July and August. Prohibition signs take precedence over the general law.
- Outside the season, too, the rule is: only stand where there is no prohibition sign, and don't put anything out. Nature reserves, dunes and beaches are off limits; wild camping on beaches is prohibited.
- Useful apps: park4night, CamperOnline and Campercontact; the information on Calabria is partly out of date, so phone the aree attrezzate beforehand.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Water supply and waste disposal is called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. In Calabria it is available on campsites and at some aree attrezzate; public stations are rare and often without electricity.
- Empty grey water and the toilet cassette only at the station; dumping them in the wild leads to new bans.
- Tap water is mostly drinkable, but look for “acqua potabile”; in high summer there may be restrictions on the coast, so fill your tank in good time.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Italy. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at LPG filling stations with the Italian adapter; often only the staff do the filling. Arrive with two full cylinders.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on motorways; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on motorways. Vehicles towing a caravan: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on motorways. Outside built-up areas, dipped headlights are required in daytime too.
- ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) zones exist in the old towns of Tropea, Pizzo and other places, in some cases with camera monitoring; fines arrive by post, often months later. The signs show times and exemptions; if in doubt, do not enter.
- Tolls: the A2 Salerno–Reggio Calabria (Autostrada del Mediterraneo) is toll-free, but often has roadworks and speed limits. The coastal roads SS18 and SS522 are free, but slow.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, for example bicycles on a rear carrier, the red-and-white warning plate (50 × 50 cm) is compulsory. Blood alcohol limit 0.5, for novice and professional drivers 0.0; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free system. From 15 November to 15 April, winter equipment may be required on mountain roads such as in the Serre.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Water shoes and snorkel: the granite bays of Capo Vaticano and Grotticelle are stony, and the water is clear and full of fish.
- Compact binoculars for the view of Stromboli and the Strait of Messina, especially at dusk.
- Levelling ramps for terraced campsites at Capo Vaticano and in Palmi.
- Italian gas adapter for LPG filling stations, plus two full cylinders when you enter the country.
- Warm jacket for the Serre: at 800 m it gets cool in the evening even in summer, and in autumn there can be fog.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
