In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the Strait of Messina via Taormina, Etna, Syracuse and the Baroque of the Val di Noto to the temples of Agrigento and Selinunte, then on to Erice, San Vito lo Capo, Palermo and Cefalù: a good 1,080 kilometres on which Etna is almost always smoking somewhere on the horizon.
The spirit of the route
Sicily begins on the ferry deck: the Calabrian coast recedes; ahead lie the harbour mole of Messina, cranes and the Peloritani hills. Then the island changes face every two hours. Black lava fields and pistachio groves on Etna, honey-coloured Baroque in Noto and Ragusa, Doric columns above almond trees in Agrigento, white marl cliffs by the sea. In the west, windmills stand between pink-shimmering salt pans, and on the mountain grey stone Erice wears a ring of cloud. From the sliding door: fishermen in the harbour in the morning, the sun behind the Egadi Islands in the evening. Add markets with sea urchins beside blood oranges, potholed roads, horns in narrow lanes and midday heat that stops everything for three hours. Drive slowly, rise early, spend evenings on campsites in pine shade, and you will find an island that feels more like a continent.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Messina to Taormina (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- After the roughly 20-minute crossing from Villa San Giovanni, leave Messina via the Boccetta junction or the Rada San Francesco port and take the A18 south. The CAS toll motorway runs through tunnels and over viaducts on the slopes of the Peloritani, with views of the Strait of Messina and later the Ionian coast. Exit at Taormina, then take the coast road SS114 towards Letojanni or Giardini Naxos. Just under an hour's driving. If you arrive in Palermo by ferry from Genoa, Naples or Livorno, join the route at stage 8 in the opposite direction.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Teatro Antico in Taormina: the Greco-Roman theatre with Etna and the Bay of Naxos as a stage backdrop, best early in the morning.
- Isola Bella: the small nature reserve island below Taormina, reachable over a shingle bar when the sea is calm.
- Castelmola above Taormina, on foot up a steep stairway: from the top you look across the whole coast to Etna.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping La Focetta Sicula in Sant’Alessio Siculo, a few kilometres north of Letojanni right on the pebble beach: electricity, sanitary facilities, service point, bus connection to Taormina on the coast road. There are more small campsites in Letojanni itself. Check the season, opening times and condition of the site beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Taormina and the neighbouring villages, overnighting in public car parks is effectively not an option: the Lumbi car park and the multi-storey car parks are meant for day visitors; check heights and rules beforehand. Below the town there are private motorhome car parks (for example in the Spisone district); check current status and prices on park4night or CamperOnline. On the coast between Letojanni and Giardini, municipal overnight bans apply in many places in summer.
- Insider tip for campers
- Do not drive up to Taormina in the motorhome: the hairpins are tight, the centre is a ZTL, and the car parks are full in summer. The local bus on the coast road or the cable car from Mazzarò is more convenient. A shuttle runs from the Lumbi car park to the old town. For the A18 toll, have coins and notes ready: since September 2025 the automatic CAS toll booths have not accepted cards, and card payment is only possible in staffed lanes.
2Stage 2: Taormina to Syracuse via Etna (approx. 190 km)
- The drive
- From Giardini Naxos take the SS185 into the Alcantara valley, then via Castiglione di Sicilia to Linguaglossa and along the Mareneve road through pine and birch forest on the northern and eastern flank of Etna, via Piano Provenzana and Fornazzo to Zafferana Etnea. From there the SP92 climbs through lava fields from the 1983 and 2001 eruptions up to the Rifugio Sapienza at a good 1,900 m. Descend via Nicolosi to the Catania bypass and take the motorway-like road to Syracuse. Around four hours of pure driving time; the Mareneve is narrow and winding, so if you have more time, split the stage and spend the night on Etna.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gole dell’Alcantara: basalt columns in a narrow gorge of lava, accessible via the public entrance near Motta Camastra or the paid botanical and geological park.
- Crateri Silvestri right next to the Rifugio Sapienza: an easy circular walk over the extinct side craters of 1892, with views as far as Syracuse in clear weather.
- Funivia dell’Etna cable car from the Rifugio Sapienza to about 2,500 m, operation depending on wind and volcanic activity; further up by off-road bus, and into the summit zone only with authorised mountain guides.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Syracuse, the Area Attrezzata ClaudCar lies in green surroundings on Via per Floridia (SS124), not far from Ortigia: water, electricity and waste disposal, listed as open year-round; check sanitary facilities and the connection to Ortigia beforehand. If you prefer to be by the sea, you will find agricampeggi south of Syracuse and, near Avola, Campeggio Sabbiadoro on the beach, which also works as a base for Noto.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the Rifugio Sapienza, motorhomes use the large car park on the SP92 for overnighting; it is chargeable, there is hardly any service, and at night it gets cold at 1,900 m even in summer. The site lies within the Parco dell’Etna, so camping behaviour is taboo. In Nicolosi there used to be Camping Etna, a site in a pine wood; whether it is currently open could not be confirmed, so clarify beforehand, as the information on portals is contradictory. Around Syracuse, many motorhomes park in beach car parks near Fontane Bianche, often with bans and checks in summer.
- Insider tip for campers
- Make your Etna day depend on the volcano: after several eruptive phases with lava flows and lava fountains between the end of June and mid-August 2026, at times with the closure of Catania airport, the summit craters were still showing explosive activity with ash clouds in September 2026, most recently around 24 and 26 September, again disrupting Catania airport; on 28 September the aviation warning level was lowered and the airport reopened. The Mareneve was closed to cars for a time in August 2026 (Fornazzo–Rifugio Citelli, reopened on 19 August). The SP92 and the Mareneve can be closed at short notice in case of strong activity or ashfall; the altitude limits for free hiking are set by municipal ordinances and change with the activity. Before setting off, check the bulletins of the INGV Catania and the notices of the municipalities of Nicolosi and Linguaglossa. In ashfall, the lava sand on the road is as slippery as gravel chippings: drive slowly and top up the windscreen washer fluid.
3Stage 3: Syracuse to Ragusa via Noto and Modica (approx. 100 km)
- The drive
- Take the A18 Siracusa–Gela south as far as Noto; the section to Modica is currently toll-free; the toll stations have been put out to tender, and a toll is expected from 2028 according to current plans. After Noto, go via Ispica to the Modica exit and on the country road over the Iblei plateau with dry-stone walls and carob trees to Ragusa. In Modica and Ragusa Ibla the streets wind narrowly through the gorges, so park large vehicles on the outskirts. About two hours' driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Noto: Corso Vittorio Emanuele with the rebuilt cathedral of San Nicolò and the balconies of the Palazzo Nicolaci, almost golden yellow in the evening light.
- Modica: the Duomo di San Giorgio above the lower town and the cold-processed chocolate of the old dolcerie on Corso Umberto.
- Ragusa Ibla: the Duomo di San Giorgio, the Giardino Ibleo at the end of the spur and the view from the Santa Maria delle Scale steps.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Ragusa there is a large free car park with service point on Largo Caduti del Lavoro, a few hundred metres from Piazza del Popolo, where buses to Ibla depart; no electricity and no lighting, check the current status beforehand in Stellplatz apps. With more comfort: private motorhome sites with electricity and showers in the surroundings of Modica and Ragusa, for example on Contrada Monte Margi, or the campsites on the coast near Marina di Ragusa.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Italian law permits overnighting wherever parking is allowed, as long as you are not camping. In the Baroque towns, however, there are hardly any suitable areas, and at the Vendicari nature reserve between Syracuse and Noto overnighting in the access car parks is not intended; check the signs and the reserve’s rules beforehand. The free car parks in Modica (Viale Medaglie d’Oro) and Ragusa are tolerated at night but are not motorhome sites.
- Insider tip for campers
- Put the detour to the Riserva di Vendicari early in the morning: flamingos and other waterbirds on the salt lakes, then a swim at Cala Mosche. Noto, Modica and Ragusa Ibla have ZTL zones, some with cameras: leave the motorhome outside and walk the last stretch.
4Stage 4: Ragusa to Agrigento (approx. 140 km)
- The drive
- Via Comiso and Vittoria onto the SS115 and along the south coast past Gela, Licata and Palma di Montechiaro to Agrigento. Wide plains with greenhouses, then hills with wheat fields and olive groves. The SS115 has been widened to four lanes in parts, with two-lane sections in between that have poor surfaces, potholes and lorry traffic. A little under 2.5 hours' driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Castello di Falconara near Butera, a Norman castle right on the beach, visible from the SS115.
- Valle dei Templi in Agrigento: Temple of Concordia, Temple of Juno and the Via Sacra on the ridge above the sea; at times with evening opening in summer.
- Giardino della Kolymbetra: a citrus and olive garden maintained by the FAI foundation in a hollow in the Valley of the Temples.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Valle dei Templi in San Leone, Agrigento’s beach suburb: electricity, sanitary facilities, service point, about three kilometres to the Valley of the Temples, buses to Agrigento. Check beforehand whether it operates all year or seasonally.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The car parks at the Valley of the Temples are chargeable day car parks; nobody overnights there. On the beach at San Leone and on the coast towards Realmonte, parking bans or restrictions for motorhomes apply in many places in summer; read the signs carefully.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Valley of the Temples has several entrances with their own car parks; check beforehand in the Stellplatz apps which one suits the length of your vehicle. Visit the temples early in the morning or late in the afternoon, as there is hardly any shade at midday. In the dry years of 2024 and 2025, Agrigento was among the hardest-hit cities in Sicily, and the pipe network remains leaky: fill up beforehand and shower sparingly.
5Stage 5: Agrigento to Selinunte via the Scala dei Turchi (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- From San Leone via Porto Empedocle to Realmonte for the Scala dei Turchi, then on the SS115 west via Siculiana and Ribera to Sciacca and Castelvetrano, and from there to Marinella di Selinunte. Well-built expressway sections alternate with country road through vineyards and olive groves. Around two hours' driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Scala dei Turchi: the white marl cliff near Realmonte; accessible with a quota and time slots since May 2026.
- Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa near Siculiana: an undeveloped beach below gypsum cliffs, reached on foot from the access car parks.
- Parco Archeologico di Selinunte: Temple E on the eastern hill and the acropolis above the sea, with wild celery and mastic in between.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Marinella di Selinunte, Camping Athena lies a few minutes from the archaeological park, along with a few smaller sites in the village: pitches with electricity, sanitary facilities, service point. Ask about the season and pitch sizes beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Riserva di Torre Salsa and the coast near Eraclea Minoa are protected areas; overnighting in the access car parks is not allowed. In Marinella, check the signs and rules of the car park at the harbour beforehand; for the night, better use one of the campsites.
- Insider tip for campers
- For the Scala dei Turchi the following has applied since May 2026: no more online reservations, tickets are only available on site, payment by electronic means only (no cash), admission in groups of at most 50 people every 20 minutes, a maximum of 1,800 visitors per day; the ticket costs 6 euros per person. Enter only the areas that are open: the marl is soft and crumbles. The car parks near Realmonte are scarce in summer and often unsuitable for long motorhomes; arrive early. Fuel is cheaper in Sciacca or Castelvetrano than on the coast.
6Stage 6: Selinunte to San Vito lo Capo via Marsala, Trapani and Erice (approx. 145 km)
- The drive
- Via Campobello di Mazara to Mazara del Vallo and along the coast to Marsala, then on the salt road SP21 along the Stagnone lagoon to Trapani. Up to Erice on a winding mountain road (around 750 m), then via Valderice and Custonaci past Monte Cofano to the peninsula of San Vito lo Capo. Flat as far as Trapani, then hairpins. A good three hours' driving with stops at the salt pans.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Salt pans on the Stagnone near Marsala: windmills, heaps of salt and the crossing to the Phoenician island of Mozia.
- Erice: Castello di Venere, Chiesa Madre and views of Trapani, the salt pans and the Egadi Islands; alternatively go up by cable car from Trapani, if it is running.
- Riserva Naturale Monte Cofano: a coastal path around the limestone mountain with old watchtowers.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In San Vito lo Capo, Camping La Pineta lies on the edge of the town, within walking distance of the beach; in Contrada Macari (Salinella), about 6 km before the town, El Bahira Camping Village on the rocky coast under pines and olive trees, with a shuttle to the sandy beaches. Both have electricity, sanitary facilities and service points, and are well booked in high summer. Between Trapani and Custonaci there is also Camping Lido Valderice near Bonagia.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The peninsula of San Vito lo Capo is overcrowded in summer; the municipality regulates parking for motorhomes, and overnighting is prohibited in the Monte Cofano and Zingaro protected areas. In Erice, too, the car parks are not intended for overnight stays.
- Insider tip for campers
- The road to Erice is narrow and prone to fog; with long vehicles, the cable car from the valley station in Trapani is the more relaxed choice: check beforehand whether it is running and how big the car park is. In Trapani, a stop at the Nubia salt pans with the salt museum is worthwhile. The Couscous Fest in San Vito is usually held in the second half of September (2026: 18–27 September): then all the sites are full.
7Stage 7: San Vito lo Capo to Palermo via Scopello (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- From San Vito back via Castelluzzo and through the hinterland to Castellammare del Golfo, with a detour to the coast at Scopello. Then on the toll-free A29 past Terrasini and the airport to Palermo. The access road to Scopello is narrow and steep. About two hours' driving, not counting walking.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Riserva dello Zingaro: around 7 km of coastal path between the north entrance at the Tonnarella dell’Uzzo and the south entrance at Scopello, with pebble coves such as Cala dell’Uzzo.
- Tonnara di Scopello with the Faraglioni off the coast.
- Monreale above Palermo: the Norman cathedral with gold mosaics and cloister.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping degli Ulivi in Sferracavallo in the north-west of Palermo, a small site under olive trees with electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal; city buses go to the centre, and Mondello is nearby. There are more sites near Isola delle Femmine.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Palermo, free camping is not advisable: theft and break-ins to vehicles occur, and at night beach car parks such as the ones in Mondello are not a safe choice. Stay on the campsite or in a guarded car park. The Riserva dello Zingaro is a nature reserve: no overnighting in the entrance car parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- An entry ticket is required for the Zingaro; the entrances have seasonal opening hours, and on the coastal path there is hardly any shade and only a few drinking-water points, so take at least two litres per person. After the big fire of 2020, the vegetation is still recovering. Palermo’s city centre is a camera-monitored ZTL: to enter during operating hours you need a pass, available online through the city portal (ztl.comune.palermo.it) and to be activated on the same day; check beforehand which rules apply to motorhomes. Simpler: leave the motorhome parked and take the bus.
8Stage 8: Palermo to Messina via Cefalù (approx. 240 km)
- The drive
- From Palermo on the A19 east as far as the junction with the A20, which is a toll motorway run by the CAS. It is about an hour to Cefalù; after that the A20 runs through many tunnels and over high viaducts along the Tyrrhenian coast via Sant’Agata di Militello and Capo d’Orlando to Messina. Roadworks with single-lane sections and speed limits are frequent. About three hours' driving without breaks; if you split the stage, spend the night in Cefalù.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Duomo di Cefalù: the Norman cathedral with the Christ Pantocrator in gold mosaic, part of the UNESCO World Heritage site Arab-Norman Palermo.
- La Rocca: the climb up the limestone rock above Cefalù to the Temple of Diana, a good hour, start early.
- Tindari near Patti: pilgrimage church and remains of the Greek city above the Oliveri lagoon.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Ogliastrillo, west of Cefalù on the coast, you will find Camping Sanfilippo and Camping Costa Ponente: pitches under pines and olive trees near the sea with electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal, bus connection to Cefalù. There are few sites in Messina itself; the ferries to Villa San Giovanni run around the clock.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Cefalù has a ZTL in the old town and strict parking rules on the waterfront promenade in summer; overnighting in car parks is not tolerated there. Along the Tyrrhenian coast, motorhomes park on harbour areas outside the season, for example in Capo d’Orlando; check beforehand in Stellplatz apps what is currently allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- Take enough cash for the A20: the automatic CAS toll booths currently do not accept cards, and at smaller toll stations a staffed lane is not always open. Ferry fares depend on vehicle length and height; Caronte & Tourist and Bluferries run between Villa San Giovanni and Messina, and tickets are also available online. For the ferry lines from Palermo to Genoa, Naples or Livorno (GNV, Grimaldi, Tirrenia), book early in summer and state the height exactly.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Under Art. 185 of the Italian Codice della Strada, a motorhome may park and be slept in anywhere parking is allowed. What is forbidden is camping: an awning, chairs, stabilisers, wedges or drained water turn parking into camping.
- Sicilian coastal municipalities issue summer ordinances every spring that prohibit or limit overnight parking of motorhomes on beaches and promenades. Checks and fines are common in tourist places such as San Vito lo Capo, Cefalù or on the coast near Syracuse.
- In regional nature reserves (Riserve Naturali Orientate) such as Zingaro, Vendicari, Torre Salsa or Monte Cofano, and in the Parco dell’Etna, tents and camping are forbidden; access car parks often close in the evening.
- Free camping in Sicily is also a question of safety: vehicles have been broken into around Palermo, Catania and remote beaches. Use campsites, agricampeggi and private aree di sosta. Useful apps: park4night, CamperOnline, Campercontact.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service points (“camper service”, “carico e scarico”) are found on campsites, private aree attrezzate and some municipal car parks such as the one in Ragusa; many work with coins.
- Water: in 2024 and 2025 Sicily went through a severe drought with a state of emergency and rationing in Agrigento, Caltanissetta, Trapani and the surroundings of Palermo. After the rainier winter of 2025/26 the situation has eased; local supply interruptions are still possible, and the pipe networks are patchy, so fill the fresh-water tank at every opportunity and shower sparingly.
- Tap water is not drinkable everywhere; look out for the sign “acqua potabile”. For drinking water, many locals use the municipal water kiosks (“casette dell’acqua”), where filtered water is filled into your own canisters.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged. LPG filling stations are common in Sicily; have refillable cylinders or gas tanks filled using the Italian adapter, often only the staff do the filling. On Etna, for nights at 1,900 m, plan enough gas for heating.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on motorways; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on motorways; vehicles with trailers 70 and 80 km/h respectively. On the A18 and A20, lower limits often apply because of roadworks, in places with average-speed checks.
- Tolls: the A18 Messina–Catania and A20 Messina–Palermo are operated by the Consorzio Autostrade Siciliane (CAS). Since September 2025, its automatic toll booths have not accepted cards (as of 2026, retrofitting planned but delayed); you pay in cash or by card in staffed lanes, or alternatively by Telepass. Toll-free are the A19 Palermo–Catania, the A29 Palermo–Trapani/Mazara and, so far, the A18 Siracusa–Modica (a toll is expected from 2028 according to current plans). Motorhomes with two axles and a height of over 1.30 m at the front axle pay class B. In September 2026 the transport ministry threatened the CAS with closing the A18 and A20 (deadline 3 October); the region says funding is in place and no section will be closed – check the latest reports before you set off.
- ZTL zones with cameras in Palermo, Taormina, Syracuse/Ortigia, Noto, Ragusa Ibla and Cefalù; fines arrive by post at your home address. In Palermo a pass can be bought online (ztl.comune.palermo.it).
- Warning panel: bicycles or boxes at the rear require the red-and-white striped warning panel (50 × 50 cm). Outside built-up areas, dipped headlights are compulsory, and a high-visibility vest must be kept in the cab.
- Road condition: on state and provincial roads such as the SS115 or the SS114 there are potholes, sunken edges and sudden roadworks; drive slowly at night and in heavy rain. The alcohol limit is 0.5, zero for novice drivers; using a phone without a hands-free system can also lead to loss of your licence.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Water canisters (10–20 litres) and a water filter, for stages with scarce supply and for the casette dell’acqua.
- Sun shades for the cab and mosquito nets for windows and roof vents: in high summer the nights on the south coast stay above 25 °C.
- Fleece jacket, sturdy shoes and safety glasses for Etna: up top there is often a cold wind, and the lava sand is sharp-edged.
- Cash in small notes and coins for the CAS toll stations, markets and service points.
- Steering wheel lock and lockable storage compartments: theft protection for car parks in Palermo, Catania and on beaches.
- Italian LPG adapter and the red-and-white warning panel for the rear carrier.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
