In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Granada via Lanjarón and the Poqueira Gorge to Trevélez, over the Puerto de la Ragua to the cave homes of Guadix, up into the Sierra Nevada and down to the Costa Tropical: a good 480 kilometres between 0 and 2,500 metres above sea level, with narrow village roads as the real challenge.
The spirit of the route
Hardly any route in Spain changes worlds as fast. In Granada the Alhambra stands red-brown above the Albaicín; less than thirty kilometres away, snow lies on Mulhacén, the highest mountain on the Spanish mainland, in winter and spring. The southern flank of the Sierra Nevada, the Alpujarras, is a land of terraces, chestnut groves and white cube-shaped villages where Moorish irrigation channels still carry water from the peaks into the gardens. From your sliding door you smell woodsmoke, thyme and cured ham from Trevélez; in the evening you hear goat bells and the rush of the acequias. Add high passes with wide views as far as the Mediterranean, the cave homes of Guadix with smoking chimneys on clay-red hills, and finally a sunset over the Mediterranean. This route rewards short stages, early starts and the willingness to leave the camper at the edge of the village.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Granada to Órgiva (via Lanjarón) (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- First a day for Granada itself, then take the A-44 autovía towards the coast and, at the exit for Lanjarón and Órgiva, the A-348 into the Alpujarras (follow the signs). From Lanjarón it continues to Órgiva in the valley of the Río Guadalfeo. Mostly wide roads, only the descent from Granada drags on; a good hour of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Alhambra and Generalife: tickets are personal, and the Nasrid Palaces have a fixed time slot printed on the ticket; book as early as possible and only through the official Patronato sales channel, and keep your ID ready at the entrance.
- Albaicín and Mirador de San Nicolás: the classic view of the Alhambra with the Sierra Nevada behind it, most beautiful in the late afternoon.
- Lanjarón: spa town at the foot of the Alpujarras, known for its mineral water, with springs in the village and a ruined castle above the rooftops.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In and around Granada there are several sites, including Camping Reina Isabel in La Zubia south of the city and the motorhome areas Área Camper Granada and Área Camper el Cortijo. If you plan to take the bus into the city, check the connection and the current conditions of the site in advance. In Órgiva there is Camping Órgiva on the edge of the village (open all year according to the operator) and an Área de autocaravanas “entre Sierra y Mar”; ask the operator about facilities and season in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Within the city of Granada, overnighting outside designated sites is not advisable: parking bans, access rules and checks in the low-emission zone make looking for a pitch in the centre risky. At the springs of Lanjarón, too, motorhomes are not catered for.
- Insider tip for campers
- Since 1 October 2025 Granada has had a low-emission zone (ZBE) covering the whole urban area, in force around the clock and monitored by cameras at the access points. According to the city, it affects vehicles without a Spanish DGT environmental label that are not registered in Granada; the fine is 200 euros. How foreign vehicles are classified should be clarified in advance with the city’s mobility portal (zbe@granada.org); do not drive into the centre with the camper – take a bus or taxi from the site. In Lanjarón, top up with water before moving on, provided the village has an accessible fountain.
2Stage 2: Órgiva to Capileira (Poqueira Gorge) (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Órgiva take the A-4132 up into the gorge of the Río Poqueira, through Pampaneira and on the A-4129 junction through Bubión to Capileira at around 1,400 m. The road is paved and gets narrow in places, with hairpins, guard rails and short stretches of oncoming traffic; buses and delivery vans are frequent. For longer motorhomes, driving through the three villages should be assessed with care. About an hour’s drive.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pampaneira: village centre with white houses, weaving workshops and shops selling Alpujarra blankets (jarapas).
- Bubión, with a view of the Poqueira Gorge and terraced fields.
- Capileira: starting point for walks into the Poqueira valley and towards Mulhacén; photo spots on the roof terraces with Berber-style flat roofs.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: For motorhomes the choice directly in the three villages is limited; in the Alpujarras, Camping Órgiva and, further east, Camping El Balcón de Pitres are alternatives. Whether a motorhome pitch is designated in Pampaneira or Capileira, check beforehand with the municipality or in the pitch apps.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Poqueira Gorge lies in the Sierra Nevada Natural Park (also a national park at the higher altitudes). Camping and fires are prohibited here; parking at the edge of the villages is possible, but overnighting in the vehicle outside designated sites in the villages is not advisable. Rules differ from municipality to municipality.
- Insider tip for campers
- The tightest spots are the drives through the villages: it is best to park the camper at the lower edge of Pampaneira or Capileira (car parks at the edge of the village, check the location in advance) and go on foot. In summer, access from Capileira to the high ground towards Mulhacén is managed by a national park shuttle (SIAC) and access restrictions; booking is recommended, and conditions should be checked in advance with the park authority.
3Stage 3: Capileira to Trevélez (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Capileira go back via the A-4129 onto the A-4132 and through Pitres, Pórtugos and Busquístar up to Trevélez, at around 1,500 m one of the highest villages in Spain. From here the road gains more height, with hairpins alternating with short straight stretches. The entrance to Trevélez is steep and narrow; about an hour’s drive, without photo stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pitres and the villages of the Taha (including Mecina Fondales): paths along the irrigation channels, the acequias.
- Pórtugos: waterfalls and springs (Chorreras) at the edge of the village, easy to reach on foot.
- Trevélez: the drying houses (secaderos) for air-cured ham; sample it in the village’s bars and shops.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Trevélez at the edge of the village and Camping El Balcón de Pitres near Pitres are on this stage; check the pitch situation, access and season with the operators in advance, as the access roads can be narrow for larger vehicles.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the natural park camping outside sites is prohibited. Andalusia’s wildfire regulations call for particular caution in summer: no open fires and no barbecues in the countryside; the high-risk period for wildfires in Andalusia runs from 1 June to 15 October.
- Insider tip for campers
- Trevélez has its height difference within the village: the upper district (Barrio Alto) is unsuitable for motorhomes – park in the lower district at the edge of the valley and walk up. Fill up with fuel beforehand, as there are only a few filling stations in the mountain villages, mostly on the valley roads.
4Stage 4: Trevélez to Ugíjar (via Cádiar) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Trevélez down the valley via Juviles and Bérchules to Cádiar in the valley floor of the Río Guadalfeo, then on the A-348 through the eastern Alpujarras to Ugíjar. The road is mostly paved, but narrow and winding through the villages, with hairpins and some sections with guard rails at the edge of a drop. Around 1.5 hours of pure driving time, considerably more with stops in the villages.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Juviles and Bérchules: white villages with viewpoints over the valleys of the Sierra Nevada; in Bérchules the church of San Juan Bautista with Mudéjar elements.
- Cádiar: a larger village in the valley of the Río Guadalfeo and starting point for walks along the irrigation channels to Narila.
- Ugíjar: main village of the eastern Alpujarras with a view of the mountains.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Municipal motorhome areas are listed in Cádiar and Ugíjar (Área de autocaravanas de Cádiar, Área de autocaravanas de Ugíjar); check location and facilities in advance in the pitch apps, as small municipal sites are often basic and not always open all year.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The municipalities of the Alpujarras tend to tolerate motorhomes at the edge of villages if they only park and do not spread out camping items; heed prohibition signs and local rules. In the natural park itself a ban on camping and fires applies.
- Insider tip for campers
- Small village roads are not suitable for every motorhome: if in doubt, check the satnav in satellite view beforehand and, if still in doubt, choose the bypass. Plan water and waste disposal in the valley (Cádiar/Ugíjar); in the higher villages service points are rare.
5Stage 5: Ugíjar to Guadix (via the Puerto de la Ragua) (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- From Ugíjar via Válor, Mairena and Laroles to the A-337 and over the Puerto de la Ragua (around 2,000 m) to the north side of the Sierra Nevada and across the high plain to Guadix. On the south side hairpins and gradients, at the top a view of the Sierra Nevada and the rock, on the north side a long, wide descent. In winter the pass may be closed because of snow or chains may be compulsory. A good 2 hours’ drive.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Puerto de la Ragua: crossing between the Alpujarras and the Marquesado del Zenete, starting point for walks to the summits of the Sierra Nevada.
- Guadix: Barrio de Santiago with the cave-dwelling quarter (Cuevas) and viewpoints over the hills with the white chimneys.
- Alcazaba and cathedral of Guadix in the centre; museum of cave life (Cueva Museum).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Guadix a municipal motorhome area (“Área de autocaravanas Guadix”) is listed; Camping Las Viñas in Cogollos de Guadix is an alternative, and Alpujarras Camping lies at the approach to the Puerto de la Ragua (clarify location and winter access in advance). Check facilities and season beforehand. The motorhome area at Marchal west of Guadix is also listed in databases.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Guadix motorhomes are tolerated more readily at the edge of the town on official areas; in the hills with the cave homes the access is narrow and unsuitable for campers.
- Insider tip for campers
- The altitude brings cold nights: even in autumn temperatures at 2,000 m can be close to zero at night; allow for heating and protect the water system. In bad weather, avoid the pass if in doubt – check the DGT traffic information beforehand.
6Stage 6: Guadix to Sierra Nevada (Pradollano and Hoya de la Mora) (approx. 95 km)
- The drive
- From Guadix take the A-92 autovía to Granada, then the A-395 (Autovía de Sierra Nevada) up to Pradollano. The mountain road winds in hairpins up to around 2,100 m, with some steep gradients; in summer it is usually clear, in winter chains are often compulsory. Continue to the Hoya de la Mora at around 2,500 m; the road beyond it to the Pico Veleta is restricted for private vehicles under national park rules. A good 2 hours’ drive.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pradollano: the ski resort with its base station and cable car; in summer a starting point for walks.
- Hoya de la Mora: views as far as the summits; starting point for walks towards Veleta and for the national park shuttle.
- Pico Veleta (3,396 m): in summer a guided national park shuttle (SIAC, with reservation) runs from Hoya de la Mora up to about 3,000 m; the summit is reached on foot, with wide views as far as the Mediterranean in clear weather.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: On the A-395, halfway between Granada and Sierra Nevada, lies Camping Ruta del Purche (listed on some maps as El Purche). In Pradollano, according to third parties, only the Las Sabinas car park at the high-performance centre takes motorhomes, without electricity or water hook-ups; the large Los Peñones car park is a general car park. Whether overnighting in a motorhome is allowed there and what conditions apply, be sure to check beforehand with the operating company (Cetursa).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): A strict camping ban applies in the Sierra Nevada National Park; overnighting in the vehicle in car parks at high altitude is not permitted or is checked. For access to Veleta and Mulhacén, national park rules apply (access restrictions, permits, shuttle buses) – check with the park authority in the year of your trip.
- Insider tip for campers
- Weather at altitude changes quickly: afternoon thunderstorms, wind and temperatures well below those in Granada. Ask about access restrictions and shuttle buses in summer and, if necessary, book tickets in advance; it is better to leave the camper on designated areas in the valley.
7Stage 7: Sierra Nevada to Almuñécar (Costa Tropical) (approx. 125 km)
- The drive
- Back to Granada and on the A-44 over the Puerto del Suspiro del Moro and down through the mountains to the coast, where it meets the A-7 near Vélez de Benaudalla; on the A-7 (Autovía del Mediterráneo) continue to Salobreña and Almuñécar. The A-44 is a well-built toll-free autovía with long descents. About 2 hours’ drive.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Puerto del Suspiro del Moro: the pass “Sigh of the Moor” south of Granada, from which, according to tradition, Boabdil, the last Nasrid ruler, looked back at Granada and the Alhambra.
- Salobreña: white old town with a castle on a rock above the sea.
- Almuñécar: old town, Castillo de San Miguel and beaches of the Costa Tropical.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Almuñécar you will find Camping Tropical Almuñécar and a motorhome area (Área de Autocaravanas de Almuñécar); near Motril there are Camping Playa de Poniente and Camping Playa Granada. Check facilities, season and motorhome terms before arrival; book early in the summer months.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The coast of the Costa Tropical is densely populated and built up; overnighting in a motorhome outside designated sites is regulated and checked differently from place to place, and prohibition signs for campers are common. Camping on the beach (awning, chairs, tables) is prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel and water before the coast; expect heavy traffic along the Costa Tropical in summer. For a relaxed finish, a rest day on the beach at Almuñécar or Salobreña is worthwhile, although the search for a pitch should be made early in the day in any case.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Spain has no uniform national regulation: what is tolerated in one region is forbidden in the next. In principle a motorhome may park wherever parking is allowed, including overnight; camping behaviour such as awnings, tables, chairs, levelling legs or grey water on the ground counts as camping and is usually prohibited outside campsites.
- In Andalusia, which includes Granada and the Alpujarras, camping outside campsites and designated areas is largely prohibited; in natural parks and national parks (Sierra Nevada) additional, stricter rules apply, including fire bans. Fines in the natural parks can be high; watch for signs on site.
- You can overnight safely on campsites, in the municipal “áreas de autocaravanas” and on private pitches. Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact, Caramaps.
- On slopes and near woodland, no open fires and no grills outside campsites: in Andalusia, during the high-risk period from 1 June to 15 October, fires and barbecues are banned in woodland and recreation areas.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service points are called “área de autocaravanas” in Spain, with “vaciado de aguas grises/negras” and “carga de agua”. Many municipal sites have coin machines or tokens; simple sites often offer only water and waste disposal.
- In the Alpujarras, service points are rare outside the valley towns; in Órgiva, Cádiar, Ugíjar and Guadix, plan your water and waste disposal. Use drinking water from village fountains only if it is expressly signed as “agua potable” (“no potable” is non-drinking water).
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not swapped in Spain; Spanish cylinders (butane) have different connections. Autogas (LPG) is available at selected filling stations; an adapter is needed, and not everywhere will foreign vehicle gas systems be filled. Arrive with full reserves.
- In the Alpujarras filling stations are mostly on the valley roads; fill up completely before climbing into the mountains.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 120 km/h on motorways and autovías, generally 90 km/h on country roads (heed signs); over 3.5 t, 90 km/h applies on motorways and autovías and 80 km/h on country roads. Vehicles with trailers are usually subject to lower limits; check the details before the trip. In built-up areas 50 km/h applies where there are several lanes in each direction, 30 km/h with one lane in each direction and 20 km/h on roads without a separate pavement.
- Low-emission zones (ZBE): since 1 October 2025 Granada has operated a zone covering the whole urban area with camera monitoring, 24 hours a day; have foreign vehicles classified in advance through the city portal and park the camper outside.
- Motorways and autovías in Andalusia (A-44, A-92, A-7 on the sections used here) are mostly toll-free.
- If a load projects beyond the rear of the vehicle, for example bicycles on a rear carrier, a warning panel (V-20) is required.
- Mobile phones at the wheel only with a hands-free kit; the alcohol limit is 0.5 ‰ (lower for novice and professional drivers). Chains are compulsory on passes and in the Sierra Nevada in snow, as signposted; roads are closed when necessary.
- For the high ground of the Sierra Nevada, national park regulations apply (access, reservations, shuttle buses); for the Nasrid Palaces of the Alhambra a fixed time slot on the ticket applies. Check the official websites before you set off.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Short, sturdy levelling ramps and a folding spade for sloping pitches at the edges of villages in the Alpujarras.
- Alhambra tickets booked in advance (printed or offline) plus ID: the time slot for the Nasrid Palaces applies, and ID may be requested.
- Warm layers and a windproof jacket: in the high ground of the Sierra Nevada the temperature is far below the coast even in summer, and in autumn it can snow.
- Satellite images or offline maps for checking narrow village roads, plus an additional exterior mirror or camera for reversing on hairpins.
- Enough water canisters and spare gas: in the mountain villages service points and gas are scarce.
- Have the brakes checked: the long descents at the Puerto de la Ragua, the Sierra Nevada and the A-44 put a strain on the pads.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
