In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the Renaissance squares of Baeza and Úbeda through Spain’s largest protected area to the source of the Guadalquivir, across the high plateaus of Santiago de la Espada to Caravaca, Calasparra and Cieza and on to the foot of the Sierra Espuña: about 590 kilometres on which hairpins, ibex on the road and the midday heat set the pace.
The spirit of the route
Beyond Úbeda the land goes quiet. Olive groves run in exact rows over every hill until a grey limestone wall stands on the horizon: the Sierra de Cazorla. Behind it begins a different world of black pines, juniper and rock bands, where griffon vultures circle and, for some years now, bearded vultures too. In the morning ibex stand on the road, in the evening in autumn the red deer bellow through the valley of the young Guadalquivir, and at the pitch on the Río Borosa all you hear is water. Further east, bare plateaus open up at well over 1,000 metres, then the road drops into the Región de Murcia: pilgrimage towns on castle hills, rice fields in a river valley, and in February whole hillsides in pink. From the sliding door you will rarely see the sea, but you will see castles, reservoirs and a starry sky with no light dome. This route rewards early starts, short stages and respect for heat, altitude and wildlife.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Baeza to Cazorla (via Úbeda) (approx. 58 km)
- The drive
- From Baeza take the A-316 for about 10 km across the olive ridge to Úbeda, a dead-straight, well-built road. Then continue via Torreperogil and Peal de Becerro on the A-315 and the A-319 to Cazorla; from Peal the road climbs gently and the sierra comes closer. Driving time is only about an hour, and the day belongs to the two old towns. In Cazorla itself the lanes are steep and narrow – do not drive into the town in a motorhome.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Baeza: Plaza del Pópulo with the Lion Fountain, the cathedral and the Palacio de Jabalquinto with its late Gothic façade; Antonio Machado taught French in the Old University.
- Úbeda: Plaza Vázquez de Molina with the Sacra Capilla del Salvador by Andrés de Vandelvira and the Palacio Vela de los Cobos – Úbeda and Baeza have been on the UNESCO World Heritage List together since 2003.
- Cazorla: the ruined Iglesia de Santa María above the vaulted Río Cerezuelo, and the Castillo de la Yedra with the museum of folk life of the upper Guadalquivir.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Cortijo San Isicio, about one kilometre outside Cazorla on the Camino de San Isicio: a small, quiet nature site; check facilities (electricity, pool) and season with the operator beforehand; the last stretch of access is narrow. Alternatively the municipal Área de Autocaravanas at the upper edge of Cazorla – check service facilities and fees on site.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Baeza and Úbeda have their own motorhome car parks at the edge of the old town (Baeza with about 26 spaces according to the town council, Úbeda smaller) – a better choice than car parks in the centre. They suit a night before setting off; check length of stay and facilities on site. Since 1 October 2026 municipalities may no longer ban motorhomes from legal car parks purely because of the vehicle type, but time and zone rules still apply.
- Insider tip for campers
- In high summer visit Úbeda and Baeza in the morning: from midday temperatures reach 40 °C, and museums and churches close for the siesta. The old town of Úbeda is narrow and partly closed to through traffic – leave the van at the pitch and go on foot. Fill up with fuel and shop in Úbeda, Peal de Becerro or Cazorla: in the natural park there are hardly any petrol stations and only small shops.
2Stage 2: Cazorla to Coto Ríos (via the Nacimiento del Guadalquivir) (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- Via La Iruela and Burunchel, climb in tight hairpins on the A-319 to the Puerto de las Palomas (just over 1,200 m), then descend into the Guadalquivir valley to the Empalme del Valle. From there make a detour via Vadillo Castril on a narrow, partly single-track forest road to the source of the Guadalquivir at about 1,350 m and back. Then continue down the valley via Arroyo Frío and Torre del Vinagre to Coto Ríos. A good 2.5 hours of driving time; use the passing places and allow for oncoming traffic in the bends.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Viewpoint at the Puerto de las Palomas: a view over the whole upper Guadalquivir valley as far as the Tranco reservoir, often with mist in the hollows in the morning.
- Cerrada del Utrero near Vadillo Castril: a short circular walk at the rocky gorge of the young Guadalquivir with the Linarejos waterfall.
- Nacimiento del Guadalquivir in the Cañada de las Fuentes: an unassuming spring under black pines – the river that is navigable at Seville begins here as a trickle.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Coto Ríos (municipality of Santiago-Pontones) there are several campsites on the Guadalquivir: Camping Chopera de Coto-Ríos on the Ctra. del Tranco km 53, large and shaded under poplars, plus Camping Fuente de la Pascuala and Camping Llanos de Arance. Electricity, sanitary facilities and season vary from site to site. After the storms of spring 2026 the sites in the valley were temporarily closed; Fuente de la Pascuala was open again from May according to guest reports. Have the opening confirmed by phone beforehand, and arrive early in July and August and on long weekends.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At roughly 210,000 hectares, the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park is the largest protected area in Spain. Wild camping is prohibited, and its usage rules apply regardless of the new national parking rule. Stay overnight only on campsites, in the “zonas de acampada controlada” and on explicitly designated motorhome areas. At the Nacimiento and the viewpoints only daytime parking is permitted; Agentes de Medio Ambiente and the Guardia Civil carry out checks.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Torre del Vinagre visitor centre on the A-319 has up-to-date information on trail closures, fire risk levels and hunting dates, plus a botanical garden with endemic species such as the Cazorla violet. Drive slowly between dusk and dark: red deer, fallow deer, wild boar and ibex regularly cross the valley road. The turn-off to the Nacimiento is hard going for motorhomes over 7 m – if in doubt, turn back at the Empalme del Valle.
3Stage 3: Coto Ríos to Río Borosa (hiking day) (approx. 12 km)
- The drive
- Only a few kilometres from Coto Ríos up the valley to the turn-off at Torre del Vinagre, over the Guadalquivir bridge to the fish farm (Piscifactoría) and the car park at the start of the Río Borosa trail. Narrow access road with barriers, a short drive. The day belongs to your feet.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Cerrada de Elías: wooden walkways lead through a narrow gorge with turquoise pools – the best-known section of the trail, about an hour from the car park. The walkways were damaged in the storms of early 2026 and were closed for construction work in summer 2026; check the current situation beforehand.
- Power station and tunnel passage: beyond the small hydroelectric plant the path climbs steeply and goes through tunnels cut into the rock; a head torch is essential.
- Laguna de Valdeazores and Aguas Negras: two small reservoirs at about 1,200 m as the goal of the full-day hike, a good 20 km there and back with a considerable climb.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Aparcamiento Río Borosa: a managed motorhome area with a barrier right at the start of the trail, about 40 spaces according to users, around €14.50 per 24 hours in 2026; fresh water and a grey-water drain are available, a chemical toilet disposal point was reported missing, and the drain was blocked several times in 2026. Tables, chairs and awnings are not permitted there. If you need electricity and showers, drive back to Coto Ríos.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Apart from the Aparcamiento Río Borosa there are no tolerated overnight areas in the valley; forest and logging tracks are off limits. The car area in front of the second barrier is intended for day parking (in 2026, according to users, €2.20 for up to six hours). If you stay in the motorhome area for more than 24 hours, you reportedly pay automatically for a second day.
- Insider tip for campers
- Start before 9 am: in summer the upper part without shade heats up, and at weekends the Cerrada is crowded. Take at least 2 litres of water per person – the springs along the trail are not designated as drinking water. After the storms in early 2026 the trail was closed for months because of landslides and rockfalls, and violations were penalised. On 7 July 2026 the Junta reopened the main trail, while the walkways of the Cerrada de Elías remained closed for the time being. Ask about the condition beforehand at the Torre del Vinagre visitor centre and respect barriers. There is hardly any mobile signal at the car park.
4Stage 4: Río Borosa to Segura de la Sierra (via Tranco and Hornos) (approx. 65 km)
- The drive
- On the A-319 down the valley along the east shore of the Embalse del Tranco, across the dam and on north to Hornos, which sits on a rocky spur above the lake. Then into the valley of Cortijos Nuevos and up a narrow, steep road to Segura de la Sierra. Winding, but well built as far as Hornos; the last kilometres to Segura are narrow, and the road through the village is unsuitable for large vehicles. About 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Embalse del Tranco with the Isla de Bujaraiza and its ruined castle; from the Mirador Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente the wildlife film-maker filmed golden eagles and vultures here.
- Hornos: castle on the rock with the “Cosmolarium” planetarium and a viewing balcony over the reservoir – the area is known for its dark night skies.
- Segura de la Sierra: castle at over 1,100 m with a view over the Sierra de Segura, plus Arab baths and the unusual bullring set into the rock.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Around Hornos and Segura there are small campsites, such as Camping Montillana on the Tranco reservoir near Hornos and Camping El Robledo; to the north, near Siles, Camping Río Los Molinos. Most are simply equipped, some are open seasonally, and they are only partly suitable for long vehicles – clarify access, length limits and opening times by phone beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The rules of the natural park apply here too: no overnighting at lake shores, viewpoints and forest tracks. The car parks below Hornos and Segura are for day visits; whether overnight parking is allowed there is governed by the signage, and camping behaviour is prohibited in any case. Swimming in the Tranco is customary only at designated spots, and access roads to the shore are often closed.
- Insider tip for campers
- Do not drive into Segura de la Sierra in a motorhome: park below the village and walk the last stretch to the castle. In Hornos, too, park at the entrance to the village; the lanes end in steps. In the morning and evening keep an eye out at the dam for griffon vultures riding the thermals over the gorge.
5Stage 5: Segura de la Sierra to Puebla de Don Fadrique (via Santiago de la Espada) (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- Back towards Hornos and on the A-317 through the upper Segura area via Pontones to Santiago de la Espada, then across wide, almost treeless plateaus at well over 1,000 m to Puebla de Don Fadrique in the province of Granada. Long winding stretches, little traffic, hardly any petrol stations; snow and black ice are possible in winter. A good 2.5 hours. Optionally 20 km further to Huéscar and back.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Nacimiento del Río Segura near Pontones: the source of the river that later flows through Calasparra and Cieza, in a small rock niche.
- Plateaus near Santiago de la Espada with a view of the Sierra de la Sagra (2,383 m), the striking limestone mountain above the Comarca de Huéscar.
- Huéscar: Plaza Mayor and Colegiata de la Encarnación; in 1809 the town “declared” war on Denmark and only made peace officially in 1981.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Área de Autocaravanas de Puebla de Don Fadrique, designated by the municipality, about 20 spaces at the edge of town with service facilities according to directories; check electricity and fees beforehand. In Orce, about 30 km to the south, there is another small municipal motorhome site.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Outside the natural park the general rules apply in Andalusia: parking in legal parking spaces yes, wild camping no. There is plenty of space on the plateaus, but field tracks are mostly private or hunting land. The municipal areas in Puebla and Orce are the legal and quiet solution.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up before the A-317 – there are hardly any petrol stations between Hornos and Puebla. Puebla de Don Fadrique lies at a good 1,150 m: from November to March night frosts are normal, so do not leave the fresh water tank and pipes full. In summer the nights here are pleasantly cool, an advantage over the Guadalquivir valley.
6Stage 6: Puebla de Don Fadrique to Moratalla (via Caravaca de la Cruz) (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- On the A-330 to the border of the Región de Murcia and through the uplands of the Noroeste with almond plantations and cornfields to Caravaca de la Cruz; from there a short way north into the valley of Moratalla. Wide, quiet country roads without major climbs. About 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Caravaca de la Cruz: Basilica-Santuario de la Vera Cruz in the castle precinct above the town; Caravaca celebrates a Holy Year every seven years – the last was 2024, the next is 2031.
- Fuentes del Marqués on the edge of town: a spring area with poplar wood, water basins and the Torreón de los Templarios, ideal for a lunch break.
- Moratalla: steep old town beneath the castle tower; during Holy Week the town is filled day and night with drumming groups at the “Tamborada”.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping La Puerta near Moratalla, set in greenery by the river, with electricity, sanitary facilities and shade; check season and facilities with the operator beforehand. For a night right in Caravaca: free Área de Autocaravanas on Calle Rambla, about 13 spaces without electricity, with service facilities, 10–15 minutes’ walk to the centre, hardly any shade.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Región de Murcia the same basic rules apply as in Andalusia: parking is allowed, camping only on sites. The Área in Caravaca is closed during the patron saint festivities from 1 to 5 May, when the whole town is full. Wild parking on the riverbanks near Moratalla is not tolerated.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Caballos del Vino on 2 May and the festivities around 3 May are spectacular, but then Caravaca is practically inaccessible to motorhomes – either book a campsite in the surrounding area early or avoid those days. From the Área in Caravaca the Vía Verde del Noroeste begins, a former railway embankment towards Murcia, good for a cycle ride. Gas bottles are available at the Repsol petrol station within sight of the Área.
7Stage 7: Moratalla to Sierra Espuña (El Berro, via Calasparra and Cieza) (approx. 130 km)
- The drive
- From Moratalla to Calasparra in the Segura valley, then along rice fields and rows of poplars to Cieza. Then on country roads and a short stretch of autovía south into the Guadalentín valley and up to El Berro at the foot of the Sierra Espuña. Mostly well built, the last kilometres to El Berro are narrower. Around 2.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Calasparra: Santuario de la Virgen de la Esperanza, built into a rock face above the Segura; all around are the rice fields that produce Arroz de Calasparra with protected designation of origin.
- Cañón de Almadenes between Calasparra and Cieza: a deep limestone gorge of the Segura with the Cueva de los Monigotes, accessible only on organised tours.
- Cieza: from late February to mid-March, thousands of hectares of peach and nectarine plantations bloom in the “Floración”; viewpoints and cycle paths lead into them, with the Moorish medina Siyâsa above.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Sierra Espuña in El Berro at 650 m in the regional park, open all year: about 50 pitches and some wooden cabins, electricity, pool and bar. Book at weekends in spring and autumn.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Sierra Espuña Regional Park, overnighting in the vehicle outside the campsite is not permitted; forest tracks are often closed to motor vehicles. As far as we know there is no official Área in Cieza; the Parque de autocaravanas in Archena (about 25 km to the south) is a fallback – check its status beforehand.
- Insider tip for campers
- Buy rice directly in Calasparra: Bomba and Balilla x Sollana in cloth bags make a good souvenir. During the blossom season the weekends in Cieza are overcrowded, and the plantation tracks are narrow and private – park the van at the edge of town and take the Vía Verde by bike; do not drive into the tracks between the trees. The blossom can shift by two weeks depending on the weather.
8Stage 8: Sierra Espuña (El Berro) to Aledo (via the Pozos de la Nieve) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From El Berro on the park road through Aleppo pine forest up to the Pozos de la Nieve and the Collado Bermejo, then in many hairpins down the south side towards Totana and on to Aledo. The mountain road is narrow, partly without a centre line and popular with cyclists at weekends; for vehicles over 7 m only with experience. About 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pozos de la Nieve: masonry ice pits from the 16th to 19th centuries in which snow was stored for Murcia, at about 1,450 m.
- The view from the Collado Bermejo over the forests of the Sierra Espuña – the result of the reforestation by Ricardo Codorníu from the late 19th century.
- Aledo: medieval keep (La Calahorra) and town wall on a rocky edge above the Guadalentín valley; below it the Santuario de Santa Eulalia near Totana.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camperstop Sierra Espuña, a private motorhome site between Totana and Aledo with electricity and waste disposal; check pitches, prices and season with the operator. Alternatively CAMPING-CAR PARK in Lorca (about 16 spaces, access by card). For Murcia at the end of the trip: Camperpark Huerta de Murcia east of the city.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the edge of the village of Aledo there are car parks for day visits; sleeping in a legally parked vehicle is in principle possible there under the new rule, provided no signage says otherwise. In the regional park and at the viewpoints of the Sierra Espuña, however, it is not.
- Insider tip for campers
- Murcia is only about 50 km away on the toll-free A-7. The city has a low-emission zone (ZBE) with fines since 2026 – park the van at the edge of town and take the bus or tram into the centre to the cathedral. In Totana the weekly market and the pottery tradition are worth a visit; diesel in the Guadalentín valley is usually cheaper than in the mountains.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- The basic Spanish principle: sleeping in a legally parked vehicle is allowed, but camping with anything that goes beyond the outline of the vehicle is not. Since 1 October 2026, Real Decreto 518/2026 (new Art. 92.4 of the Reglamento General de Circulación) explicitly regulates when a motorhome is correctly parked: no parts extending beyond the vehicle outline, support only on the tyres (levelling wedges allowed), no discharge of liquids. Municipalities may still regulate parking times, zones and maximum duration, but according to the DGT may not penalise solely because of the vehicle type; rules for protected areas and coasts apply independently. Implementation on the ground may take time – observe the signage.
- Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park: wild camping and overnighting outside campsites, controlled tent zones (“zonas de acampada controlada”) and designated motorhome areas are prohibited. This also applies to viewpoints, lake shores and forest tracks; many tracks are closed to motor vehicles. Agentes de Medio Ambiente and the Guardia Civil (SEPRONA) carry out checks, especially in the summer season and on public holidays; ask the Junta de Andalucía about the amount of the fine.
- Fire: in Andalusia the high-risk period runs from 1 June to 15 October (Plan INFOCA), during which fires and barbecues in the forest and near woodland are prohibited – even at designated barbecue spots in recreation areas and on campsites; driving on forest tracks is also largely prohibited. In the natural park, fires are permitted outside this period only at designated barbecue spots. In the Región de Murcia (Sierra Espuña, Noroeste) the period of high fire danger runs from 1 June to 30 September according to Plan INFOMUR 2026, with medium danger in April, May and October; the dates may be moved. At high fire levels, trails and recreation areas are closed; never throw cigarettes out of the window.
- Hunting: from October to February, drive hunts (“monterías”) take place in and around the natural park, mostly at weekends. Take signs saying “coto de caza” or “montería” seriously, stay on marked paths and keep dogs on a lead.
- You are legally parked on campsites, in the municipal “áreas de autocaravanas” (Baeza, Úbeda, Cazorla, Puebla de Don Fadrique, Caravaca) and on managed areas such as the one at the Río Borosa. park4night, Campercontact and Áreas AC provide current information on prices, closures and blocked drains; the comments are often more up to date than the descriptions.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Water supply and waste disposal are scarce in the natural park: empty and fill your tanks in Úbeda, Baeza or Cazorla before you drive into the Guadalquivir valley. At the Río Borosa in 2026 there was only fresh water and a (often blocked) grey-water drain; the next reliable stations are on the campsites in Coto Ríos, then not again until Puebla de Don Fadrique and Caravaca (free).
- Fountains in mountain villages are often not designated as drinking water: “agua potable” yes, “agua no tratada” or “no potable” no. In inland Murcia tap water is hard and chlorinated, but drinkable.
- Empty the chemical toilet only at designated stations (“vaciado WC químico”); grey water in drains or at the edge of woods counts as an environmental offence in the protected area.
- Gas: Spanish butane and propane bottles (Repsol, Cepsa) are available at many petrol stations, for example at the Repsol next to the Área in Caravaca, but only with a Spanish regulator. LPG (GLP) pumps for refillable bottles are rare in the mountains – arrive with full bottles and refill in larger towns such as Úbeda or Murcia; bring a Dish adapter.
- Petrol stations: between Cazorla, Coto Ríos, Hornos and Santiago de la Espada they are few and far between. Use every opportunity when the tank is half empty.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 120 km/h on autopista and autovía, 90 km/h on country roads; over 3.5 t 90 and 80 km/h respectively; vehicles with trailers 90 and 80 km/h respectively. In built-up areas, roads with only one lane in each direction have a limit of 30 km/h. In the natural park lower limits are signposted on many sections because of wildlife crossing.
- Tolls: the whole route is toll-free (A-316, A-319, A-317, A-330, the autovías in Murcia and the A-7). There is no motorway vignette in Spain.
- Low-emission zones: Úbeda, Baeza, Cazorla and the towns in the Noroeste have no ZBE with driving bans; Murcia has penalised violations in its low-emission zone since 2026. Check the rules for foreign vehicles beforehand on the city’s website and avoid the centre with the van.
- Mountain roads: the A-319 over the Puerto de las Palomas, the spur road to the Nacimiento del Guadalquivir, the access to Segura de la Sierra and the road over the Sierra Espuña are winding and narrow. Use low gears downhill; sounding the horn in blind hairpins is customary. After the storms in January and February 2026, over 100 roads in Andalusia were temporarily closed – check the current condition of the A-319 and A-317 with the DGT or the Junta de Andalucía before setting off. In winter (roughly November to March) expect snow and black ice on the A-317 and at the Puerto de las Palomas; carry snow chains, which are compulsory where “cadenas” signs are displayed.
- Rear carriers: if a load projects beyond the rear, the red-and-white V-20 warning plate is required. For vehicles registered in Spain, the connected V-16 flashing light has replaced warning triangles since 2026; foreign vehicles drive with the equipment required under their home country’s law.
- Blood alcohol limit 0.5 ‰, 0.3 ‰ for novice drivers in their first two years and for professional drivers. Holding a mobile phone in the hand at the wheel is prohibited even when stationary, and so are headphones. In the event of an accident involving wildlife, notify the Guardia Civil (112).
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Head torch with spare batteries – the tunnels at the Río Borosa are unlit and partly wet.
- Binoculars: bearded vultures, griffon vultures, golden eagles and ibex can be watched at close range at the Tranco reservoir, near Hornos and at the Puerto de las Palomas.
- Snow chains or all-season tyres with the Alpine symbol for trips between November and March – the plateaus around Santiago de la Espada and Puebla de Don Fadrique lie above 1,000 m.
- Long drinking-water hose with threaded and quick-coupling adapters: the few taps at áreas and campsites are often far from the pitch.
- Sturdy walking boots plus water shoes for the pools at the Río Borosa and in the Guadalquivir at Coto Ríos.
- Insect screens for windows and roof vent: at the riverside sites in Coto Ríos and Moratalla mosquitoes are about in the evening in summer.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
