In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 355 kilometres from Rüdesheim via the Loreley and the Deutsches Eck, Burg Eltz, Cochem and Bernkastel-Kues to Trier and the Saarschleife: a river journey on which you cross by ferry more often than by bridge and park in the evening between vineyard slope and riverside promenade.
The spirit of the route
This route follows the water. Between Bingen and Koblenz the Rhine has cut deep into the Slate Mountains, a castle sits on the rock at every second bend, and for over 60 kilometres there is not a single bridge – only ferries shuttling in rhythm between the banks. Beyond Koblenz it becomes quieter: the Moselle winds in tight loops through steep vineyards where growers work on ropes, and the villages crowd between slope and bank, half-timbering against half-timbering. From the sliding door you watch push-tows pass and excursion boats dock, and in the evening the light climbs the vine terraces. It smells of slate, wet leaves and freshly pressed must. The rhythm is slow: a short stretch of riverside road in the morning, a castle or a vineyard at midday, a pitch by the river in the afternoon – and at night the rattle of freight trains on the other bank.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Rüdesheim am Rhein to Bacharach (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- From the Rheingau, take the car ferry from Rüdesheim across to Bingen (a crossing of only a few minutes; motorhomes are charged by length, under the 2026 tariff at 1.80 to 2.40 euros per metre depending on width – check current prices and the timetable with the Bingen-Rüdesheimer ferry company), then follow the left-bank B9 into the narrow valley: past the Mäuseturm, through Trechtingshausen and Niederheimbach to Bacharach. The B9 is well built and bypasses the old towns; tight spots only occur in the village centres. Driving time under an hour, not counting any wait at the ferry.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Niederwalddenkmal above Rüdesheim: by cable car over the vineyards, with a view from the top of the Rhine bend and the mouth of the Nahe. The cable car runs from 21 March to 1 November in 2026. The chairlift to Assmannshausen was recently out of service; if you want to come back down by boat, check its status beforehand.
- Burg Rheinstein and Burg Reichenstein near Trechtingshausen: Rheinstein is open as a castle museum, Reichenstein is partly used as a hotel – clarify visits and times in advance; parking along the B9 is scarce.
- Bacharach: the circuit of the town wall with the Postenturm and the ruined Wernerkapelle below Burg Stahleck, on foot in a little under an hour.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Reisemobilstellplatz Sonnenstrand on Strandbadweg in Bacharach, directly on the Rhine and close to the old town; according to the town it is open from April to the end of October and run by the neighbouring Camping Sonnenstrand, which offers campsite pitches with electricity and sanitary facilities. Both lie on the bank and are affected by high water – check opening times beforehand. If you would rather stay in Rüdesheim: Campingplatz Rüdesheim am Rhein (Kastanienallee, on the Rhine bank, according to the town open all year, with grass-grid pitches for motorhomes); the motorhome parking area at the Rheingau-Bad is in Geisenheim. On the Bingen side there is the Wohnmobilpark Bingen.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Germany allows a single overnight stay to restore fitness to drive in public car parks, provided no ban is signposted – camping behaviour with chairs, awning or levelling props is not part of it. In the narrow Middle Rhine Valley, however, most riverside car parks carry overnight bans or height barriers, and the valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with protected areas on the slopes. The designated pitches of the towns are the more practical choice.
- Insider tip for campers
- In many towns the riverbank can only be reached through railway underpasses – the clearance is shown on the sign and is often not enough for alcove motorhomes. Check before turning off, and do not rely on the satnav. The Rüdesheim–Bingen ferry runs all year on a summer and a winter timetable (2026 timetable on the operator’s website). In high water or extreme low water the service may be restricted; according to media reports the Kaub gauge fell to record lows in August 2026.
2Stage 2: Bacharach to St. Goar (Loreley) (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- Continue on the B9 via Oberwesel to St. Goar, cross there by car ferry to St. Goarshausen and climb the steep, winding access road up to the Loreley plateau; return the same way. The road along the valley is flat, the mountain road to the Loreley calls for low gears. A good hour’s driving plus the ferry.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Oberwesel: an almost completely preserved town wall with defensive towers, the Schönburg above it; a view of the Pfalz near Kaub, the toll castle in the middle of the Rhine, from the B9 or on a detour by ferry to Kaub.
- Loreley plateau: a view straight down onto the narrowest and deepest point of the Rhine in the valley, visitor area and circular trails, parking chargeable.
- Maria Ruh viewpoint above Urbar on the left bank – the classic view of the Loreley rock and Burg Katz, most beautiful in the early evening.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Loreleyblick (An der Loreley, St. Goar, left bank opposite the rock): about a kilometre long along the bank, roughly 360 electric hook-ups, a disposal station; according to the operator open all year, no reservations, choose your pitch on arrival. In Oberwesel the Campingplatz Schönburgblick lies on the B9 by the Rhine with about 25 motorhome pitches, according to the operator from the beginning of March to the end of October. In high water both sites are affected.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the Loreley visitor centre in Bornich on the plateau there is a simple, chargeable motorhome car park without electricity, water or disposal (not available during events at the open-air stage; check the fee and rules beforehand). At the hiking car parks along the Rheinsteig and the RheinBurgenWeg overnighting is not intended; the slope forests are partly nature reserve, and the Rhineland-Palatinate forest law prohibits driving and parking in the forest away from open tracks. Small pitches on winegrowers’ farms, for example above St. Goar, are the quieter alternative.
- Insider tip for campers
- The St. Goar–St. Goarshausen ferry is the most important crossing in the valley and correspondingly busy; it runs all year, according to the timetable on weekdays from about 5:30 to 21:05, on Saturdays from 6:20 and on Sundays and public holidays from 7:20, longer during events at the open-air stage. If you are over 3.5 t or towing a long combination, ask the operator about dimensions and weights beforehand. The fixed Middle Rhine bridge between St. Goar and St. Goarshausen has not been built: after the spatial planning decision of 2023 the study of route variants is under way, and no start of construction has been set. Bring earplugs: freight trains run at night on both banks.
3Stage 3: St. Goar to Koblenz (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- On the B9 via Bad Salzig to Boppard, then round the great Rhine bend of the Bopparder Hamm and via Spay and Rhens to Koblenz, past Schloss Stolzenfels. After Boppard the valley widens; the road stays flat and well built. About 45 minutes’ driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Sesselbahn Boppard (in service since 18 April in 2026, according to the operator daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.) up to the Gedeonseck and a walk to the Vierseenblick, where the Rhine, seen through the hills, looks like four separate lakes.
- Schloss Stolzenfels, rebuilt in neo-Gothic style in the 19th century, car park on the B9 and a short walk up the slope.
- Koblenz: the Deutsches Eck at the confluence of Rhine and Moselle, with the cable car across the Rhine to the Ehrenbreitstein fortress.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: KNAUS Campingpark Koblenz/Rhein-Mosel in Lützel at the mouth of the Moselle, opposite the Deutsches Eck and the old town: electricity, sanitary facilities, service point, according to the operator open all year; on foot over the Balduinbrücke into the old town. The site lies on the bank and is affected by high water. Alternatively Campingplatz Gülser Moselbogen in the district of Güls, quieter and further up the Moselle.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Within the city of Koblenz there is no sensible alternative for a night besides the campsites and designated pitches – parking management and height restrictions apply on the banks and in the old town. On the right bank the Marksburg in Braubach is worth a day trip, reached via the Koblenz Rhine bridges. The Boppard–Filsen ferry has been out of service since a ship accident in March 2026; the administration had not named a date for resuming service the last time we looked.
- Insider tip for campers
- Boppard’s old town lies between railway and Rhine – with a motorhome it is better to use one of the car parks on the edge of town and go on foot. In Koblenz avoid the multi-storey car parks (height) and leave the camper at the site. Fill up before continuing to the Moselle: prices on the riverside roads are often higher than in town.
4Stage 4: Koblenz to Cochem (via Burg Eltz) (approx. 65 km)
- The drive
- Upstream on the Moselle along the left-bank road via Winningen and Kobern-Gondorf – in Gondorf the road runs through the gatehouse of Schloss von der Leyen – then via Hatzenport to Moselkern. For Burg Eltz, climb from the Moselle to the Maifeld plateau and drive via Münstermaifeld and Wierschem to the castle car park; back down to the valley and via Treis-Karden to Cochem. The riverside road is comfortable, the access to the castle narrower but manageable for motorhomes. A good 1.5 hours’ driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Burg Eltz in the Elz valley, owned by the same family since the Middle Ages: guided tour through the living quarters and treasury; in 2026 open from 29 March to 1 November, the interior only with a guided tour.
- Winningen and the terraced vineyards of the Uhlen – Winningen is a compact winegrowing village with parking on the edge of the village.
- Cochem: the Reichsburg above the old town and the chairlift to the Pinnerkreuz with a view over the Moselle loop.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Mosel Camping Cochem on the right bank in the district of Cond, opposite the old town, with electricity, sanitary facilities and service point. The motorhome parking area on the Moselpromenade lies centrally on the bank and is at risk when the water rises; ask about conditions and fees beforehand. A little quieter: Campingplatz Mosel Islands in the Treis district of Treis-Karden, with a few motorhome pitches, according to the operator from the beginning of April to the end of October and with a limited length of stay.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the Burg Eltz car park you may park during the day; overnighting is not intended there. If you want to reach the castle on foot, start in Moselkern and walk along a marked path through the Elz valley, about 45 minutes to an hour. In Müden there is a motorhome area at the Festplatz – check use and fees on the spot.
- Insider tip for campers
- From the castle car park it is around 15 minutes on foot down to the castle; alternatively a shuttle bus runs, and the car park costs 4 euros according to the castle operator. Come early or in the late afternoon; on summer weekends the car park is full at midday. In Cochem do not drive through the old town: the lanes are narrow, and the riverside road is the better way.
5Stage 5: Cochem to Traben-Trarbach (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- Upstream via Valwig and Bruttig-Fankel to Beilstein, on via Ediger-Eller, Bremm and Neef to Bullay and Zell, then via Pünderich and Enkirch to Traben-Trarbach. The riverside roads change sides at the Moselle bridges; in the winegrowing villages it gets tight and parking bays are scarce. About 1.5 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Beilstein: a tiny winegrowing village with the ruined Burg Metternich and the Klostertreppe up to the Carmelite church; parking on the edge of the village, the village centre is unsuitable for motorhomes.
- Bremmer Calmont: the steepest vineyard in Europe, opened up by a via ferrata between Bremm and Ediger-Eller – surefootedness required; check current closures beforehand.
- Marienburg on the ridge above Pünderich, with a view from above of the Zeller Hamm, one of the tightest Moselle loops.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Wohnmobilstellplatz Rissbach in Traben-Trarbach next to the Mosel-Campingplatz Rissbach, automated, with electricity, service point and sanitary facilities; it is about a kilometre to the centre. In Zell you can stay at the Campingpark Zell or at the Wohnmobilstellplatz Römerquelle.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Many Moselle municipalities post overnight bans for motorhomes at their riverside car parks, others have simple pitches on meadows by the water. Where no sign stands, the German rule applies: one night for recovery, no camping behaviour. In the vineyard tracks driving is prohibited for unauthorised persons – do not park there.
- Insider tip for campers
- During the harvest in September and October, tractors, grape harvesters and trailers with grapes are on the riverside roads; be patient and keep your distance. At wine festivals the villages often close their through road or the riverside car park – look at the municipalities’ event calendars beforehand.
6Stage 6: Traben-Trarbach to Trittenheim (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- On the B53 via Kröv, Ürzig and Zeltingen-Rachtig to Bernkastel-Kues, then via Brauneberg and Piesport to Neumagen-Dhron and Trittenheim. The road follows the loops, several times with a view of the bridge of the Hochmoselübergang near Ürzig. Just under 1.5 hours’ driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Traben-Trarbach: the Brückentor and Art Nouveau buildings by Bruno Möhring, above them the ruins of Grevenburg and Mont Royal.
- Bernkastel-Kues: the market square with half-timbered houses and the Spitzhäuschen, Burg Landshut above the town, and on the Kues side the St. Nikolaus Hospital (Cusanusstift) with a wine shop.
- Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, the great amphitheatre of vines, and the Roman wine-press complex on the edge of the village.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Wohnmobilstellplatz Trittenheim on the Moselle bank with electricity and service point, next to it the Campingplatz Trittenheim. In Piesport the Wohnmobilstellplatz Piesporter Goldtröpfchen lies on the Moselle; in Bernkastel-Kues the KNAUS Campingpark on a peninsula in the Moselle (Am Hafen, in 2026 from 1 March to 1 November). All riverside sites are at risk of high water.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Middle Moselle is densely provided with pitches, many of them on winegrowers’ farms with wine tasting. Free standing outside these is hardly tolerated on the banks; at hiking car parks the same applies as everywhere in Rhineland-Palatinate: one night without camping behaviour, unless prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- The old town of Bernkastel is off limits to motorhomes; park on the Kues side and cross the bridge on foot. For the view of the Trittenheim loop, drive up from Leiwen to the Zummethöhe – the car park is usable for motorhomes during the day.
7Stage 7: Trittenheim to Trier (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- Via Leiwen, Klüsserath, Mehring and Schweich on the riverside road to Trier; the loops become flatter and the valley wider. On the edge of the city stay on the Moselle side and drive directly to the motorhome park. Just under an hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Porta Nigra, the best-preserved Roman city gate north of the Alps, part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Trier.
- Cathedral, Liebfrauenkirche and Konstantinbasilika, all reachable on foot within a few minutes.
- Kaiserthermen, amphitheatre and the Römerbrücke over the Moselle – still in use today.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Reisemobilpark Treviris in the district of Euren by the river, open all year, with electricity, service point and sanitary facilities, attached to the Campingpark Treviris. It is several kilometres to the old town; by bicycle it is easy to reach. In high water the site may be restricted.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): There is no sensible free-standing option in the city of Trier; the centre is a pedestrian zone and multi-storey car park territory. If you want to stay outside, you will find numerous winegrowers’ pitches on the Moselle above Trier.
- Insider tip for campers
- Trier lies a few kilometres from the border: fuel in Luxembourg, for example in Wasserbillig, was recently mostly cheaper than in Germany, but the gap varies – compare prices before making the detour. Do not drive into the city centre with the camper; ask at the site about bus connections to the centre.
8Stage 8: Trier to Mettlach (Saarschleife) (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- Via Konz at the mouth of the Saar on the B51 upstream to Saarburg, on through the narrowing Saar valley to Mettlach and up to Orscholz and the Saarschleife. Well built; after Mettlach the road climbs in bends onto the plateau. About an hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Saarburg: a waterfall in the middle of the old town, where the Leukbach plunges over a rock step, the castle ruin above it.
- Cloef viewpoint in Orscholz with the classic view of the Saarschleife, next to it the Baumwipfelpfad Saarschleife (treetop walk).
- Mettlach: the Alte Abtei with the Villeroy & Boch visitor centre and the Alter Turm in the abbey park.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Reisemobilpark Saarburg on the Saar bank, about a kilometre from the old town, according to the operator open all year, with electricity, service point and sanitary facilities; nearby are also Camping Leukbachtal and Campingplatz Waldfrieden. In Orscholz, pitch guides list a motorhome area at the Cloef-Atrium without supply and disposal; the information is partly old, so check location, rules and fees on the spot.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Saarland follows the same principles as Rhineland-Palatinate: one night without camping behaviour in public car parks, unless prohibited. The slopes of the Saarschleife lie in a nature reserve, and the hiking car park at the Cloef is not a place to overnight.
- Insider tip for campers
- The approach to the Cloef leads through Orscholz; the car parks at the Baumwipfelpfad are chargeable and fill up early at weekends. If you want to go back to Trier or on to Luxembourg, from Mettlach you can drive via the border villages on the Moselle – compare fuel prices there.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In Germany wild camping is prohibited, but a single overnight stay in the vehicle to restore fitness to drive is generally permitted in public car parks as long as no ban is signposted. Camping behaviour – table, chairs, awning, levelling props, barbecue – is not allowed in this role.
- Rhineland-Palatinate, Hesse and the Saarland prohibit driving and parking in forests and on agricultural tracks; nature reserves (for example on the slopes of the Middle Rhine Valley and at the Saarschleife) are off limits. Offences are punished as administrative offences with a fine, considerably higher in protected areas.
- On the Moselle and Middle Rhine many municipalities have issued their own overnight bans for motorhomes at riverside car parks and set up managed pitches instead. Signs with a crossed-out motorhome also apply at night.
- The density of pitches is high: besides municipal sites there are many winegrowers’ pitches. Useful are park4night, Campercontact and pitch guides such as the Bordatlas; for high and low water, the gauge data of the federal states, for example via the “Meine Pegel” app.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service stations are widespread in Germany, usually at pitches with a coin or card machine; some winegrowers’ pitches offer only electricity and water. Grey water via floor drains, cassette at the chemical-toilet station – never into drains or into the river.
- Tap water in Germany is drinking water; taps at pitches are usually marked as such.
- Gas: grey 11 kg and 5 kg exchange cylinders are available at many petrol stations, DIY stores and campsites; owned cylinders are not refilled everywhere. Autogas (LPG) for refillable cylinders and gas tanks is readily available, and with the ACME connection usual in Germany you need no adapter.
- In high water, riverside pitches are closed together with their stations; then fill and empty in good time and move to sites on higher ground.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 50 km/h in built-up areas, 100 km/h outside them, on the Autobahn the recommended speed of 130 km/h applies. Motorhomes over 3.5 t up to 7.5 t drive 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on the Autobahn; lower values apply to heavier vehicles. Combinations 80 km/h, and 100 km/h on the Autobahn with a 100 km/h approval.
- There is no Autobahn toll and no vignette for motorhomes; the HGV toll affects vehicles over 3.5 t only if they are intended for freight transport. HGV overtaking bans on Autobahnen also apply to motorhomes over 3.5 t.
- Low-emission zones with a green sticker exist in many large cities; along this route (Koblenz, Trier) there is none as far as we know. Mainz abolished its zone on 1 October 2025; in Wiesbaden and Frankfurt am Main it still applies as far as we know – check when arriving or leaving.
- Situational winter tyre obligation in snow, ice and slippery conditions; tyres with the Alpine symbol are valid. A load projecting more than one metre to the rear must be marked; if a rear carrier covers lights or the number plate, a light bar and a repeater plate are required.
- Alcohol limit 0.5 per mille, 0.0 for novice drivers on probation and under 21 – with wine tastings at the pitch, consistently only after the stage. The mobile phone may not be held in the hand while driving. Bridges, ferries and railway underpasses sometimes have weight and height limits.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Earplugs – railway lines with freight traffic at night run along both banks of the Rhine, and many pitches lie right next to them.
- A long extension cable reel (at least 25 m) with a CEE adapter: at winegrowers’ and riverside pitches the pillars are often far away.
- Levelling ramps – pitches on meadows and slopes are seldom level.
- A gauge app on your smartphone and a look at the forecast: high water can close riverside pitches within a day.
- Sturdy walking shoes for the Calmont via ferrata, the Rheinsteig and the paths to the Loreley and to Burg Eltz.
- A cool box or free storage space for wine: buying directly from the winegrower at the pitch is a fixed part of the journey here.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
