In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the bore tide in Turnagain Arm to Exit Glacier, from Talkeetna to the edge of the Alaska Range and back along 135 miles of tundra track: a loop through Southcentral Alaska where the sun barely sets in June.
The spirit of the route
In Alaska the scale shifts. Half an hour out of Anchorage, the Seward Highway is squeezed between railway line and rock face, the tide runs up Turnagain Arm as a wave below you, and Dall sheep stand on the scree above. Through the open sliding door come the smells of spruce resin, glacier silt and campfire, and at midnight it is still light enough to read a book. To the south, glaciers hang in the Kenai Mountains; to the north, Denali stands white above the Susitna Valley on clear days. Then the route turns onto the Denali Highway: gravel, gravel pits as overnight spots, caribou on the tundra, no power lines and no signal. Here the weather forecast makes the plan, not the calendar. If you drive slowly, wear bear spray on your belt and fire up the stove within sight of the lake in the evening, you will experience the North the way it is meant to be.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Anchorage to Girdwood and Portage Valley (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- The Seward Highway (AK-1) leaves Anchorage to the south and, from Potter Marsh, follows the north shore of Turnagain Arm, wedged between the Chugach Mountains, the Alaska Railroad and the mudflats. It is two-lane and winding, with few places to overtake; the stretch between Anchorage and Girdwood is designated a Safety Corridor (headlights on, double fines). Without stops it takes a good hour; with photo stops, half a day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Beluga Point: a viewpoint over Turnagain Arm; on spring tides the bore tide runs into the mudflats here as a wave, and in late summer you may be lucky enough to see belugas too.
- Windy Point and the rock faces at Mile 106: Dall sheep are often right above the road – stop only in marked pullouts.
- Portage Valley with the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center on Portage Lake and the hanging glaciers on the Byron Glacier Trail.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Williwaw Campground (Chugach National Forest) in Portage Valley sits under spruce trees, with views of the Middle Glacier walls and a platform for watching salmon: around 60 sites, vault toilets, no hookups, and according to the Forest Service no drinking water in 2026. About half of the sites can be reserved via Recreation.gov, the rest are first come, first served; season mid-May to the end of September. Closer to Anchorage: Bird Creek Campground (Chugach State Park, Mile 101) above Turnagain Arm, around 25 sites, basic facilities, first come, first served, RVs up to 35 ft.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Portage Valley, overnight stays are allowed only in the designated campgrounds. Larger unpaved pullouts on Turnagain Arm are often signed “No Camping”; in the Municipality of Anchorage (which includes Girdwood), camping on public land outside campgrounds is prohibited. Plan on using proper campgrounds here.
- Insider tip for campers
- Start the day with a full fresh water tank – Williwaw has no drinking water. The Forest Service points to an unstable slope above Portage Lake which, if it gave way, could trigger a tidal wave in the lake: read the warning signs in the valley and, if an alarm sounds, drive out of the valley immediately. The tide table for Anchorage tells you when the bore tide runs up the Arm, roughly one to two hours after low water at Anchorage.
2Stage 2: Portage Valley to Seward and Exit Glacier (approx. 135 km)
- The drive
- Over Turnagain Pass (about 300 m, with snowfields still in June) into the Kenai Mountains, past the turn-off for the Hope Highway, then at Tern Lake onto the Seward side and along the turquoise Kenai Lake to Moose Pass and Seward. The road is well built, with some long climbs. Just under 2 hours of pure driving, plus the detour on the roughly 14 km Exit Glacier Road (Herman Leirer Road). Optionally, first go to Whittier: through the single-lane Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, which cars and trains share on a fixed timetable (note the toll, waiting times and height restriction).
- Highlights & must-sees
- Exit Glacier (Kenai Fjords National Park): short trails to the edge of the glacier, with year markers showing how far the ice has retreated since the 19th century. No entrance fee.
- Harding Icefield Trail: a steep, full-day climb to a view over the icefield; snowfields into summer, frequent bear encounters.
- Resurrection Bay: sea otters in Seward harbour, the Alaska SeaLife Center and boat tours to the tidewater glaciers of Kenai Fjords.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Seward’s city-run campgrounds in Waterfront Park lie right on Resurrection Bay, with a view of the mountains opposite: simple gravel sites at the water, some with electric and water hookups, restrooms and a dump station nearby – check conditions and reservations with the City of Seward. In the national park itself, Exit Glacier has only a small walk-in tent campground (12 sites, first come, first served), with no RV sites. A quieter alternative in the forest: the Forest Service campgrounds Primrose (Kenai Lake) or Trail River and Ptarmigan Creek south of Moose Pass, basic and without hookups.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Chugach National Forest allows dispersed camping in many areas for up to 14 days, but along the Seward Highway corridor there are numerous restrictions and few suitable access roads. Ask the Seward Ranger District beforehand which forest roads are open, and never park near the Alaska Railroad tracks or in avalanche paths.
- Insider tip for campers
- Seward is the last good place to resupply before the return journey: dump station, fresh water and a supermarket. At Exit Glacier the car park is full on sunny afternoons – arrive before 9 am, and the Harding Icefield Trail will still be empty too. Roadworks on the Seward Highway between Mile 90 and 99 are mostly at night with a pilot car in 2026.
3Stage 3: Seward to Eklutna Lake (approx. 265 km)
- The drive
- The same route back over Turnagain Pass and Turnagain Arm – in the opposite direction the Arm looks quite different. Through Anchorage onto the Glenn Highway (motorway-like) to Mile 26.5, then about 16 km on a narrow, winding road into the Eklutna Lake valley. About 3.5 hours of pure driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Girdwood with the Alyeska Tram (private, but a local landmark) and the Winner Creek Trail through rainforest, with a hand tram across a gorge.
- Potter Marsh on the edge of Anchorage: a boardwalk over the marshland, waterbirds and salmon in summer.
- Eklutna Lake: an 11 km glacial lake in Chugach State Park, with a broad hiking and cycling trail along the shore.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Eklutna Lake Campground (Chugach State Park) in spruce forest at the west end of the lake: around 50 sites, toilets, drinking water, no hookups, first come, first served. The access road is narrow – drive slowly with long vehicles or trailers.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): There is no legal free camping in Anchorage itself. The Eklutna campground is the most nature-oriented option near the city; Alaska State Parks allows overnight stays only in designated sites.
- Insider tip for campers
- Anchorage is the best place for the big shop: food, bear spray (not allowed on planes, so buy it here), insect repellent, and have your spare tyre checked. Propane is available at many petrol stations and propane dealers. Fill up here and in Wasilla; after that, prices rise with every mile north.
4Stage 4: Eklutna Lake to Talkeetna and Denali State Park (approx. 240 km)
- The drive
- Along the Glenn Highway into the Matanuska-Susitna Valley, then from the junction at Mile 35 onto the Parks Highway (AK-3) through Wasilla and Willow. At Mile 98.7 the Talkeetna Spur Road branches off (about 23 km to the town, the same way back). After that the Parks Highway gets emptier, with birch and spruce forest and repeated views north to the Alaska Range. Just under 3.5 hours plus time in Talkeetna.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Talkeetna: timber houses, the confluence of the Susitna, Chulitna and Talkeetna rivers, and a Denali view from Riverfront Park in clear weather. The flightseeing tours to the mountain start from here.
- Talkeetna Ranger Station of Denali National Park, the starting point for mountaineering expeditions.
- Denali Viewpoint South at Mile 135: one of the classic viewpoints for Denali (officially “Mount McKinley” again at federal level since 2025, though still mostly called Denali in Alaska) and the glaciers of the south side, with information boards.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: K’esugi Ken Campground (Denali State Park, right next to Denali Viewpoint South): 32 RV sites with electricity (20/30/50 A), paved loops, hand pumps for water, vault toilets, campground host. Some sites can be reserved online via Reserve America, the rest are first come, first served; season roughly mid-May to mid-September. Alternative: Byers Lake Campground (Mile 147) on the lake, more basic, without hookups.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Along the Parks Highway there is a lot of state land; travellers use larger pullouts for a night, provided there are no “No Camping” signs. Around Talkeetna most of the land is private – stay only in campgrounds there.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Talkeetna, parking for large RVs in the town centre is tight; use the designated parking areas on the edge of town and walk in. At the Railroad Creek Bridge (Parks Highway Mile 128.5) there is daytime pilot-car operation in 2026 – allow a few minutes’ buffer.
5Stage 5: Denali State Park to Denali National Park (approx. 165 km)
- The drive
- The most beautiful section of the Parks Highway: Hurricane Gulch with its high steel bridge, then over the broad, treeless Broad Pass (a good 700 m), past Cantwell and along the Nenana River to the park entrance at Mile 237. The road is well built, with some frost heaves. About 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Denali Viewpoint North at Mile 162.7 with a view of the south side of the massif.
- Hurricane Gulch: a pullout south of the bridge, a short walk to a view into the gorge.
- Denali Visitor Center and the park service’s sled dog kennels (ranger demonstrations in summer).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Riley Creek Campground at the park entrance (Mile 0.25): RVs up to 40 ft, no hookups, drinking water at taps; at Riley Creek Mercantile there is a dump station, fresh water, showers and washing machines. Further in: Savage River Campground (Mile 13) in open taiga, also up to 40 ft. Both can be booked through the park’s reservation system (reservedenali.com); reservations for 2027 open on 1 December 2026. Generators only from 8 to 10 am and from 4 to 8 pm.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the national park, overnight stays are allowed only in the campgrounds. Outside it, in the canyon on the Nenana River, almost everything is private land or densely built up. The nearest legal natural sites are on the Denali Highway from Cantwell.
- Insider tip for campers
- In your own vehicle you may drive the Denali Park Road only as far as Mile 15 (Savage River). The exception is Teklanika River Campground (Mile 29, up to 40 ft) with a stay of at least three nights – the vehicle then stays parked until you leave. The new bridge over the Pretty Rocks landslide was completed at the beginning of September 2026; even so, in the 2026 season the buses ran only as far as Mile 43 (East Fork). From the 2027 season, the buses are due to run to the west end of the 92-mile road again; whether and how private vehicles (for example via the former Road Lottery) may go beyond Mile 15 again was not known at the time of going to press – check details and entrance fees (with surcharges for some visitors without US residence) at nps.gov/dena.
6Stage 6: Denali National Park to Brushkana Creek (Denali Highway) (approx. 140 km)
- The drive
- In the morning to Savage River (Mile 15) and back, often with moose and caribou by the roadside. Then 43 km back along the Parks Highway to Cantwell and onto the Denali Highway (AK-8) heading east. After a few kilometres of tarmac the gravel track begins: potholes, washboard, and mud when it rains. Recommended speed 30–50 mph. Around 3 hours including the Park Road.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Savage River Loop: a flat circular trail along the river; the drive ends for private vehicles at the car park at Mile 15.
- The Park Road from about Mile 9 and the Mountain Vista rest area (Mile 13): in clear weather, the first view of Denali from the north.
- The first kilometres of the Denali Highway from Cantwell, looking back to the Alaska Range and the Nenana Valley.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Brushkana Creek Campground (BLM, Mile 104.5 from Paxson): 22 sites by a creek, fire rings, tables, vault toilets, a hand pump with drinking water, bear-proof food lockers and rubbish bins. First come, first served, most recently 20 dollars a night, open roughly Memorial Day to Labor Day.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Along the Denali Highway, dispersed camping is allowed on BLM land, typically for up to 14 days in one place. Former gravel pits and wide pullouts right by the road are used – do not drive onto the tundra. Note: around Cantwell there is a lot of land belonging to Alaska Native corporations, which is private; heed the signs and, if in doubt, drive on.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up in Cantwell and fill all your jerrycans: between Cantwell and Paxson there is fuel at best at individual lodges, and it cannot be relied on. Many motorhome rental contracts expressly exclude gravel roads such as the Denali Highway – check beforehand. Lowering tyre pressure slightly is easier on the suspension and your crockery, and a full-size spare wheel is a must.
7Stage 7: Brushkana Creek to Tangle Lakes and Paxson Lake (approx. 185 km)
- The drive
- The core section of the Denali Highway: across the tundra high above the Susitna Valley, the bridge over the Susitna River, to the Maclaren River bridge and up to Maclaren Summit, one of the highest road passes in Alaska (over 1,200 m). From about Mile 21 there is tarmac again to the junction with the Richardson Highway at Paxson, then about 17 km south. A good 5 hours of pure driving – plan for the whole day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Maclaren Summit: a car park at the top of the pass, a short walk across the tundra with a view of the Maclaren Glacier and the Alaska Range.
- Tangle Lakes Archaeological District: a lake landscape with sites thousands of years old – do not touch or take artefacts.
- Caribou of the Nelchina herd, moose and, in late summer, blueberries and cloudberries on the tundra.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Paxson Lake Campground (BLM, Mile 175 Richardson Highway) on the large lake: around 50 sites, a hand pump with drinking water, vault toilets, bear-proof food lockers, a dump station (for a fee for non-guests). First come, first served, roughly end of May to early September. Shorter: Tangle Lakes Campground (BLM, Mile 21.5 Denali Highway) on the lakeshore with a boat launch and hand pump.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the eastern section too there are numerous gravel pits and pullouts on BLM land, especially between the Maclaren River and Tangle Lakes. Fires only in existing rings, and none at all when there is a wildfire risk; take ash and rubbish away with you.
- Insider tip for campers
- Frost heaves are treacherous on the paved east end and on the Richardson Highway: waves in the surface that can throw the motorhome off balance at 55 mph. Watch for orange flags at the roadside and brake beforehand. After the gravel road, top up the water tank at the dump station at Paxson Lake and check the underside of the vehicle and the number plates.
8Stage 8: Paxson Lake to Anchorage (approx. 400 km)
- The drive
- South on the Richardson Highway through the Copper River Basin to Glennallen, where you turn west onto the Glenn Highway (AK-1): over Tahneta Pass and Eureka Summit, past the Matanuska Glacier, through the narrow Matanuska River valley to Palmer and Anchorage. Paved throughout, winding with steep sections between Sheep Mountain and Chickaloon. About 5.5 hours – better split with a night at Matanuska Glacier or Long Lake.
- Highlights & must-sees
- The view from Glennallen of the Wrangell Mountains with Mount Drum, Mount Sanford and Mount Wrangell.
- Matanuska Glacier: viewing platforms on the Edge Nature Trail at the Matanuska Glacier State Recreation Site (Mile 101). Access onto the ice is on private land and costs a fee.
- Sheep Mountain and Lion Head: coloured slopes above the Matanuska Valley, Dall sheep to spot with binoculars.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Matanuska Glacier State Recreation Site (Mile 101 Glenn Highway): only 6 sites, water and toilets, first come, first served, with a direct view of the glacier. Other State Recreation Sites on the Glenn Highway: Long Lake and King Mountain, basic and on the water. On the way on the Richardson Highway: Dry Creek State Recreation Site north of Glennallen.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the Glenn Highway there are several large pullouts with glacier and mountain views; overnighting there is mostly tolerated where there are no prohibition signs. Between Palmer and Anchorage, free camping is practically impossible.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel and water and empty your tanks in Glennallen – it is the largest service point between Paxson and Palmer. On the Glenn Highway between Mile 66.5 and 92 (Long Lake), resurfacing work with a pilot car and waits of up to 20 minutes continues until 2027. Before returning a rental vehicle, empty or fill grey water, black water and propane according to the contract terms.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Alaska has no statewide ban on free camping, but cities and boroughs regulate strictly: in the Municipality of Anchorage (including Girdwood), camping outside campgrounds is prohibited, and in Seward and Talkeetna it is practically ruled out as well.
- On BLM land, such as along the Denali Highway, dispersed camping is generally allowed for up to 14 days in one place; in Chugach National Forest too, but with many local restrictions (e.g. Portage Valley only in campgrounds). Alaska State Parks allow overnight stays only in designated sites.
- Between areas of public land there are large tracts of Alaska Native corporation land and private land. BLM maps or apps with a land ownership layer help; “Private Land” signs are meant seriously.
- Most campgrounds open only in mid to late May and close in early to mid-September; BLM and state park sites are often first come, first served. Useful apps: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, plus Recreation.gov (Chugach NF) and the Denali National Park reservation system.
- Bear protection is a must, not an option: food, cool box, rubbish and cosmetics belong in the closed vehicle or in the bear-proof lockers, never in the tent or under the awning. Carry bear spray within reach, and do not leave it in the vehicle.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations include Seward, Riley Creek Mercantile in Denali National Park, Paxson Lake Campground (BLM), and Glennallen, Palmer and Anchorage. There are none on the Denali Highway itself.
- Many basic sites have only hand pumps or no drinking water at all (e.g. Williwaw in 2026). A water filter or boiled water is standard; never drink untreated water from streams.
- Never release grey water onto the ground – bears smell food residue. Empty chemical toilets only at dump stations.
- Propane is available in Anchorage, Wasilla, Palmer, Glennallen and Seward; European gas cylinders are mostly not refilled, and rental motorhomes have permanently fitted US tanks.
- Take the distances between fuel stations seriously: Cantwell to Paxson (135 miles, gravel) and on to Glennallen have no reliable fuel station. Rule of thumb: never drive past a fuel station with less than half a tank.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits are mostly 55 mph, up to 65 mph on improved sections; on the Denali Highway 30–50 mph is realistic. On Safety Corridors (including the Seward Highway on Turnagain Arm and parts of the Parks Highway), double fines apply and, where signed, headlights on in daytime too.
- In Alaska, slow vehicles must pull over to the right at the next designated turnout as soon as five or more vehicles are backing up behind them.
- No low-emission zones, no motorway tolls. The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel to Whittier is subject to a toll (single lane, alternating operation with the railway; note the timetable and height restriction).
- Pitch lengths: in Denali (Riley Creek, Savage River, Teklanika) 40 ft maximum; many Forest Service and BLM sites are tighter. Drive the Denali Highway only in vehicles whose rental contract allows gravel roads; it is not maintained from October to mid-May.
- Check current road conditions at 511.alaska.gov: roadworks with pilot cars, landslides and fire closures are normal in summer.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Bear spray with a holster (buy it in Anchorage, not allowed on planes) – carry it on your body on every trail and at your pitch.
- Head net, insect repellent with DEET or icaridin, and fly screens for the sliding door and roof vent: in June and July the mosquitoes at Tangle Lakes and Paxson Lake are a real nuisance.
- Blackout curtains or a sleep mask: around the summer solstice it barely gets dark in Anchorage.
- Full-size spare wheel, compressor and tyre repair kit – on the Denali Highway, sharp-edged gravel and 100 km without help are the norm.
- Spare fuel cans (where permitted) and offline maps, ideally with a land ownership layer; there is almost no mobile signal on the Denali Highway.
- Rain gear and warm layers, even in July: at Maclaren Summit and Exit Glacier temperatures quickly fall below 10 °C.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
