In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Kirkwall via the Churchill Barriers, the Ring of Brodgar and Skara Brae, then on the night ferry to Lerwick and on via Jarlshof and Eshaness to Unst: around 775 kilometres, about 185 of them at sea, through landscapes without a single tree but with five thousand years of history.
The spirit of the route
Up here there are no trees to slow the wind, and that is exactly the appeal. On Orkney the hills lie as flat as the palm of your hand, standing stones older than the pyramids rise between them, and cows graze in fields with a view of the sea. On Shetland the land gets rougher: the road winds along the voes, ponies with tousled manes stand unimpressed at the roadside, and gannets, puffins and skuas wheel above the cliffs of Eshaness and Hermaness. From your sliding door you will see surf, peat smoke and sheep under a sky that changes its face every ten minutes. In summer it hardly gets properly dark; in autumn the vast open spaces come without the crowds. Whoever likes the islands likes the weather too: pack patience, a windproof jacket and plenty of time.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Kirkwall to Kirkwall (via the Churchill Barriers) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Kirkwall take the A961 south over the four Churchill Barriers, which link the Orkney Mainland with Lamb Holm, Glimps Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay. The road is mostly flat between stretches of water and concrete blocks; in south-westerly and easterly winds spray can wash over the causeways. Continue to St Margaret’s Hope, then return the same way or by the coast road. Well surfaced; around an hour and a half of pure driving time, closer to three with photo stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm: Italian prisoners of war turned two corrugated-iron huts into a small church in 1943/44, painted entirely inside; Domenico Chiocchetti created most of the decoration.
- Churchill Barriers: the causeways were built after the sinking of HMS Royal Oak in 1939 to close the eastern approaches to the Scapa Flow naval base; rusting blockships still lie in the water.
- St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall: a 12th-century cathedral of red and yellow sandstone in the middle of town, a short walk away.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Orkney Caravan Park at the Pickaquoy Centre on the edge of Kirkwall: a motorhome and tent site with electric hook-up, toilets and showers, and service facilities, with a swimming pool and supermarket nearby. Check the season and opening times in advance; book in good time in high summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Like the rest of Scotland, Orkney is covered by the Scottish Outdoor Access Code: camping for walkers is permitted under certain conditions, but access rights do not include motor vehicles, so overnighting in a motorhome is not covered. On the Churchill Barriers and around the Italian Chapel there are no car parks designated for overnight stays, and none that are welcome. You stay legal and relaxed on campsites or with the landowner’s consent (e.g. on a farm).
- Insider tip for campers
- Visit the Italian Chapel early in the day or in late afternoon; at midday coaches arrive and the car park is tight. Fill up and shop in Kirkwall before heading on to the smaller islands and to Shetland. In storms the Barriers can be closed – watch for wind warnings before you set off.
2Stage 2: Kirkwall to Stromness (Stone Age Orkney) (approx. 65 km)
- The drive
- From Kirkwall take the A965 west via Finstown, then through the interior between the Lochs of Harray and Stenness. A bridge (the Bridge of Brodgar) separates the two lochs; the Stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar lie here. Continue north on the B9055/B9056 to the Bay of Skaill with Skara Brae, then back to the main road and south to Stromness. Two lanes, few bends, two hours’ driving time plus sightseeing.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ring of Brodgar: a stone circle just over 100 metres across on a narrow isthmus between two lochs; 27 stones still stand upright today.
- Stones of Stenness: four monoliths up to around 6 metres tall that you are free to walk around – most beautiful in low sun.
- Skara Brae: a Neolithic village uncovered from a dune by a storm in 1850; behind the visitor centre a path leads along the Bay of Skaill beach. The nearby chambered cairn of Maeshowe can only be visited with a pre-booked time slot.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Point of Ness Campsite on the edge of Stromness, right on the water with a view of the ferries: pitches for tents, caravans and motorhomes with electric hook-up, water and disposal for chemical toilets; according to Orkney Islands Council the site is open from about April to October.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Brodgar and Stenness, roadside parking is tolerated in many places but not intended for overnight stays; at the stone circles and on the beach at the Bay of Skaill, camping is legally and ethically problematic because these are World Heritage sites. Follow the signs from Historic Environment Scotland and the Council.
- Insider tip for campers
- Maeshowe and access to Skara Brae are run by Historic Environment Scotland: Maeshowe can only be visited with a pre-booked time slot (book through Historic Environment Scotland); the meeting point is the Maeshowe Visitor Centre in Stenness, not the tomb itself. The Ring of Brodgar and the Stones of Stenness are freely accessible at any time; stay on the paths and do not climb on the stones. In Stromness the walk along the paved main street is worthwhile, and there is a supermarket on the edge of town for shopping.
3Stage 3: Stromness to Kirkwall (via Yesnaby and Birsay) (approx. 65 km)
- The drive
- From Stromness head north towards Skaill and take the signposted spur road to Yesnaby (single-track with passing places at the end), then back to the A967 and on north via Skaill, Marwick and Birsay. From Birsay take the A966 towards Evie and Finstown before returning to Kirkwall. Mostly quiet and well surfaced; single-track sections with passing places are found only along the coast.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Yesnaby: a sandstone cliff coast with the sea stack of Yesnaby Castle and a clifftop walking trail, plus the remains of a Second World War coastal battery.
- Brough of Birsay: a tidal island with the remains of a Pictish and Viking-age settlement; reached on foot by a causeway, only around low tide.
- Earl’s Palace in Birsay: the ruin of a Renaissance palace from the late 16th century in the middle of the village.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: A second night in Kirkwall (Orkney Caravan Park at the Pickaquoy Centre), because the ferry terminal for the night ferry to Shetland is nearby. Alternatively Birsay Hostel & Campsite in the north: according to Orkney Islands Council 28 pitches, 13 of them with electric hook-up, plus disposal for chemical toilets; the season runs from about April to September. Check access and pitch size for long vehicles in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): As in stage 2: motorhomes may park, but overnighting in the vehicle is not generally regulated. At the Brough of Birsay and the Yesnaby car park there are no toilets or showers, and wind and wet make the spots unattractive. If you do stay overnight, leave no trace and empty your chemical toilet and grey water only at designated points.
- Insider tip for campers
- The tide table for Birsay belongs in your glovebox: the causeway can only be crossed around low tide (roughly from two hours before to two hours after), and when the water rises it comes in fast. If you have another day, take the passenger ferry from Stromness to Hoy and walk from the hamlet of Rackwick to the Old Man of Hoy (a 137-metre sea stack, around 13 kilometres there and back, allow for changes in the weather); transport to Rackwick and the ferry times need to be sorted out beforehand. Vehicles cross from Houton to Lyness (Orkney Ferries); the ferry from Stromness is a passenger-only service.
4Stage 4: Kirkwall to Lerwick (night ferry) (approx. 185 km)
- The drive
- Take the NorthLink ferry from Kirkwall (Hatston) to Lerwick: ships on the Aberdeen–Kirkwall–Lerwick route call at Kirkwall (Hatston) late in the evening, depart again shortly before midnight and reach Lerwick early in the morning. The sea crossing is around 185 kilometres (115 miles). Motorhomes must be booked in advance, with exact details of length and height; the vehicle deck is locked during the crossing, so you have no access to your motorhome on the way. Please check times and days of sailing directly with NorthLink: not every departure from Aberdeen calls at Kirkwall.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Arriving in Lerwick in the morning: from the deck you watch the coast of Shetland draw closer; with luck, seabirds or marine mammals show themselves.
- Lerwick in the morning: the harbour fills with fishing boats, and the paved Commercial Street shows the townscape of the 18th century.
- Shetland Museum and Archives at Hay’s Dock: an introduction to the island’s Viking, textile and fishing history, a good start before the circuit.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: The nearest site is Scalloway Caravan Park in Scalloway, about a quarter of an hour west of Lerwick. Check facilities and season beforehand; outside high season some sites on the island are closed.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Shetland too the Scottish Outdoor Access Code applies: motorhomes are not covered by the right to camp. Parking by the road is usually possible, but overnighting is not welcome everywhere; in the town of Lerwick you should move to designated sites. Heed signs and the guidance from Visit Shetland and the Council.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fresh food is often more expensive on Shetland and occasionally in short supply; shop deliberately in Kirkwall or Lerwick. Gas cylinders and gas systems are subject to the shipping line’s rules: cylinders must be closed or shut off during the crossing; read NorthLink’s “Notice to Vehicle Drivers”. Exchange cylinders of common brands (Calor) are available in Lerwick; foreign cylinders are generally not exchanged.
5Stage 5: Lerwick to Sumburgh (Jarlshof and Mousa) (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Lerwick take the A970 south via Cunningsburgh and Sandwick to Sumburgh: a coast road with views of the islands of Mousa and Bressay, mostly two lanes and easy to drive. At Sumburgh Airport the A970 crosses the runway; a barrier closes the road when aircraft take off or land. Around an hour’s driving time, with plenty of room for detours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Jarlshof: a settlement site with layers from the Bronze Age, Iron Age, Pictish and Viking periods, right on the beach at Sumburgh; Historic Environment Scotland runs the site.
- Sumburgh Head: lighthouse and RSPB bird reserve with puffins, guillemots and razorbills in summer, plus orcas and dolphins as occasional visitors in the sea.
- Mousa Broch: the best-preserved broch in Scotland, around 13 metres tall, reachable only by boat from Sandwick; in summer there are evening trips to see the storm petrels.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Levenwick Campsite in the south-east of the island: a simple site for tents and motorhomes with toilets and showers and electric hook-up, a small number of pitches. An alternative is Cunningsburgh Touring Park on the A970. Check availability, season and length restrictions beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At Sumburgh Head and the Jarlshof car park overnighting is not provided for; the runway and protected natural areas make wild camping especially problematic here. The beach at Quendale and the coast road in the south offer hardly any sheltered spots.
- Insider tip for campers
- Mousa can only be planned if you keep your travel time and the sea state flexible; in strong wind sailings are cancelled. The boat trip takes only a quarter of an hour; on the island you need sturdy footwear and a head torch. Around Sumburgh Head, puffins can in our experience be seen roughly from May to early August; outside the breeding season the cliffs are empty.
6Stage 6: Sumburgh to Eshaness (west coast) (approx. 135 km)
- The drive
- Take the A970 back to Lerwick and on north via Voe to the turn-off for Hillswick, then the B9078 to Eshaness. The A970 is well surfaced with a few climbs; the B9078 at the end crosses moorland, is partly single-track and is populated by sheep and ponies. Around three hours’ driving time plus breaks.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Eshaness Lighthouse: a lighthouse of 1929 on volcanic cliffs up to around 60 metres high; blowholes, natural arches and rock clefts along the coastal path, and the surf is most impressive in a westerly wind.
- Grind of the Navir and Holes of Scraada: from the car park at the lighthouse a path leads past blowholes and collapses – away from the path there is a danger of falling.
- Tangwick Haa Museum near Eshaness: in a former manor house the museum tells of fishing and trade; Hillswick on Ura Firth lies on the way.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Braewick Caravan Park near Eshaness: a motorhome and tent site on the edge of the coast with toilets and showers and a view of the cliffs. Ask beforehand about facilities, season and access for long vehicles.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around the Eshaness lighthouse the spaces are open but exposed to the wind; there is no blanket right to overnight in a vehicle. Vehicles must not damage the narrow verges, and the lighthouse car park is not a campsite.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up in Lerwick or Brae before driving west – the choice of fuel pumps on Shetland is small, and in the evening and on Sundays many are closed. On the coast road to Eshaness, watch for gusts in strong winds: tall motorhomes are sensitive to crosswinds. Shetland ponies are small but strong animals; stand still and stay calm if one crosses your path, and do not feed it.
7Stage 7: Eshaness to Unst (Hermaness and Haroldswick) (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- From Eshaness return to the A970 and go via Brae to Toft, where you take the ferry to Ulsta on Yell. On Yell follow the A968 across the moor to the Gutcher terminal, cross to Belmont on Unst and drive via Baltasound to Haroldswick and the Hermaness car park. With the two crossings and possible waiting times, allow around four to five hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Hermaness National Nature Reserve: a path through moor and heather to the cliffs where gannets and puffins breed; wide views of Muckle Flugga, the northernmost lighthouse in the British Isles.
- Yell: heather, peat and frequent otters in the voes; a short stop in the village of Burravoe or on the beach at Breckon.
- Bobby’s Bus Shelter in Baltasound: a bus stop furnished in a changing style that has become a landmark of Unst.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Gardiesfauld Hostel and Campsite, also known as Gardiesfauld Caravan Park, in Uyeasound on Unst: a tent and motorhome site by the water with toilets, showers and a kitchen. Check opening times and pitch size beforehand; arriving by ferry means planning early.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Yell and Unst there is little space and hardly any facilities, so overnighting at the roadside is neither planned for nor welcome. Hermaness and Skaw are nature reserves; overnighting outside designated sites is not appropriate here.
- Insider tip for campers
- The ferries to the northern isles (Toft–Ulsta, Gutcher–Belmont) are run by Shetland Islands Council; booking is recommended, and vehicles over 5.5 metres in length must be reserved through the booking office (Toft–Ulsta about 20 minutes, Gutcher–Belmont about 10 minutes). Check times in advance, especially in summer. At Hermaness, skuas (known on Shetland as “bonxies”) attack nesting visitors from the air: a walking stick held high above your head distracts them. It is best to leave dogs in the vehicle or keep them strictly on a short lead.
8Stage 8: Unst to Lerwick (return to the ferry) (approx. 115 km)
- The drive
- Back the same way: from Uyeasound along the A968 to the Belmont terminal, take the ferry to Gutcher, then on Yell go to Ulsta and on to Toft. From there take the A968 to Voe and then the A970 south to Lerwick. In all, a good two hours’ driving time plus waiting at the ferries.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Sullom Voe: the oil terminal north of Brae recalls the oil era of the 1970s; the detour is a long way round, and the site is not open to the public.
- Scalloway: a fishing village on the west coast with Scalloway Castle and the Shetland Bus Memorial, which commemorates the escape helpers of the Second World War.
- Lerwick: Fort Charlotte and the Lodberries, former merchants’ houses that jut out into the water on stilts.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Back at the harbour in Lerwick: spend the night on a site nearby, for example Scalloway Caravan Park with toilets, showers and service facilities. Book early, because the ferry to Kirkwall and Aberdeen leaves in the late afternoon.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the town of Lerwick overnighting at the harbour is not provided for; vehicles showing camping behaviour (chairs, awning) can cause trouble. Use designated sites or campsites.
- Insider tip for campers
- Plan your departure day with a buffer: check in at the terminal at least an hour before sailing, as the queue in Lerwick gets long in summer. Fill up with fuel and water in Lerwick, and dispose of waste on the site. If you are planning a distillery tour on Orkney or Shetland along the way, remember the Scottish drink-drive limit of 50 mg per 100 ml: tastings only if someone else is driving.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- On Orkney and Shetland, as in the rest of Scotland, the Scottish Outdoor Access Code (Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003) applies. It allows walkers, cyclists and canoeists to camp on unenclosed land; access rights do not include motor vehicles, so motorhomes and campervans are not covered. Parking is allowed where it is not prohibited; whether overnighting in a vehicle is tolerated is decided differently by landowners and communities – without permission you have no protection.
- On both island groups space is limited and the density of archaeology is high: around stone circles, brochs, Skara Brae, Jarlshof and tombs, parking for overnight stays, fires and vehicles off the road are not appropriate. In protected areas, bird reserves and National Nature Reserves (e.g. Hermaness), expect stricter rules and additional signs.
- Fines and prohibition signs from the two Councils (Orkney Islands Council, Shetland Islands Council) vary from place to place; what is tolerated at the roadside today may be forbidden somewhere else. Never drive onto farmland without permission, and close gates.
- You can stay overnight legally on campsites (Orkney and Shetland have several small sites, many closed in the low season), on sites run by clubs, or with permission on private land. Helpful directories and apps: park4night, Campercontact, and the websites of Visit Orkney and Visit Shetland. Scottish local authorities can introduce an overnight levy (Visitor Levy); the Councils of Orkney and Shetland decided against such a levy in 2025 – check the current position before you travel all the same.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service points: disposal points for chemical toilets and grey water (“Elsan Points”) are found mostly on campsites, and in some cases at municipal facilities in Kirkwall and Lerwick (check the current position in advance). Never empty waste into road drains or bird reserves. Before the trip, find out by phone or website whether non-guests may use the disposal facilities.
- Drinking water: tap water in Scotland is drinkable and soft; you fill up fresh water on sites or at taps by public toilets.
- Gas: on the islands, Calor Gas cylinders (butane/propane) are exchanged, and there are dealers in Kirkwall and Lerwick; German exchange cylinders are not exchanged, and the connections differ. Bring enough gas with you or use refillable cylinders with a suitable adapter. Autogas (LPG) is rarely available on the islands; fill the tank before you travel.
- Fuel and shopping: prices are higher than on the mainland, and pumps on the small islands (Yell, Unst, Hoy) are few and closed in the evening. In Kirkwall, Stromness and Lerwick you will find supermarkets, in the villages often only small shops.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Entry: Great Britain is not in the EU. EU citizens need an electronic travel authorisation (ETA) for short stays, to be applied for online only via gov.uk or the official app; it is valid for two years or until the passport expires and has cost £20 since 8 April 2026. Carry the vehicle registration document, driving licence and proof of insurance; whether your insurance (Green Card) is valid for Great Britain, ask your insurer beforehand.
- Customs and animals: meat and dairy products from the EU may not be brought into Great Britain. Dogs need a microchip, rabies vaccination, an EU pet passport and a tapeworm treatment by a vet 24 to 120 hours before arrival. On Shetland and Orkney ground-nesting birds breed and lambs graze – keep dogs on a lead there.
- Driving on the left: roundabouts are driven clockwise, and on entering you give way to traffic from the right. On single-track roads with passing places you pull into a passing place on the left-hand side, or stop on your own side opposite a passing place on the right; never park in a passing place. Mask or adjust your headlights for left-hand traffic.
- Speed limits (mph): for motorhomes up to 3.05 t unladen weight, 60 mph applies outside built-up areas on single carriageway roads; over 3.05 t it is 50 mph. Vehicles towing a caravan: 50 mph on single carriageway roads. In built-up areas 20 or 30 mph, on the islands mostly 30 mph. Look up the exact values on gov.uk before the trip; check the registration document for the approval details (unladen weight).
- Dimensions: in Great Britain around 12 metres in length and 2.55 metres in width are the limits for motorhomes; when booking with NorthLink you state length and height including bike rack and roof fittings. Bridges and tunnels on the islands are seldom low, but the roads are narrow.
- Ferries: for the NorthLink night ferry (Aberdeen–Kirkwall–Lerwick) and the connections within the island groups (Orkney Ferries, Shetland Islands Council), always book your vehicle in advance, as early as possible in summer. In storms sailings can be cancelled; do not leave your booking time too tight.
- Alcohol and mobile phones: in Scotland a limit of 22 micrograms of alcohol per 100 ml of breath (50 mg/100 ml blood) applies, lower than in England and Wales. Mobile phones must not be held in the hand while driving.
- Low emission zones: Aberdeen has a Low Emission Zone that can lead to fines for vehicles below Euro 6 (diesel) or Euro 4 (petrol) – check before you travel whether your route to the ferry terminal touches the zone. Details are in the CampingSpirit travel guide “Dolphins, fishing villages and cliff castles – by camper along the Moray Firth and the Aberdeenshire coast”. On Orkney and Shetland there are no low emission zones and no tolls.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Walking stick with a wrist strap: on Hermaness and other nesting areas skuas (bonxies) dive-bomb visitors; the stick held high above your head keeps them at a distance.
- Binoculars (8×42) and a lightweight tripod: for puffins, razorbills and seals from a distance, so you do not disturb nesting sites.
- Wind-proof outer protection: storm straps for the awning and bike rack, extra storm guy lines for the awning tent – gusts of 60 mph and more are not unusual.
- Waterproof trousers and wellies: constant rain and wet peat bog demand more than softshell.
- Head torch with a red-light function: on Mousa and on night walks it preserves your night vision and does not disturb the storm petrels.
- Tide table and weather app (Met Office): for the causeway to Birsay and for ferry crossings, which can be cancelled in wind.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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