In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Ōpōtiki on State Highway 35 around the East Cape, via Tolaga Bay and Gisborne to the Māhia Peninsula and on via Wairoa to Napier, Hastings and Cape Kidnappers: around 720 kilometres of driving on the left along the coast where New Zealand sees the day first.
The spirit of the route
Beyond Ōpōtiki, tourism stops and the coast belongs once more to the people who have lived here for centuries. State Highway 35 clings to the sea between pōhutukawa and pebble beaches, horses graze at the roadside, washing lines flutter in front of carved meeting houses, and at Raukokore a white wooden church stands alone before the surf. From the sliding door you see driftwood, fishing boats on trailers and, in the evening, the silhouette of Hikurangi, the mountain on which, according to Ngāti Porou tradition, the first sunlight falls. There is often no mobile coverage, petrol stations are village shops with a single pump, and some stretches of road still bear the scars of Cyclone Gabrielle. South of Gisborne the land grows wider and richer: vineyards, orchards, Napier’s seafront promenade with its pastel façades from the 1930s. At the end you walk at low tide beneath crumbling cliffs to thousands of gannets – and plan the day around the tide table.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Ōpōtiki to Waihau Bay (approx. 100 km)
- The drive
- Head east on SH35, first through pastureland, then right onto the coast at Tōrere. From here the road follows the Bay of Plenty in tight bends, alternating between beach level and short climbs over headlands, with several one-lane bridges. Expect slow logging and stock trucks, and horses and cattle on the road. Around 2 hours of pure driving time, half a day with stops. After the storms, work was carried out on slips near Tōrere – expect roadworks traffic lights.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Tōrere: the carved gateway (waharoa) at the school and the pebble beach with views across the bay – view it from the road and do not enter the school grounds.
- Te Kaha: the wide bay with the Tukaki wharenui of Te Kaha Marae on the shore; you only enter a marae by invitation, but looking from the road is fine.
- Raukokore: the small white Anglican Christ Church on a headland right by the sea, one of the most photographed sights on the coast.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Waihau Bay Holiday Park on the beach of the bay: powered sites, toilets and showers, kitchen, dump facility for guests. Alternatively, the basic Maraehako campground on the bay of the same name north of Te Kaha, which is only open seasonally. Both are simple, family-run sites; during the summer holidays (Christmas to the end of January) phone ahead.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Much of the coastal land along SH35 is privately owned Māori land, not public land – so bays with beach access are not automatically freedom camping spots. Where it says “No Camping” or gates are closed, that applies. To stay overnight outside campgrounds you need areas designated by the Ōpōtiki District Council (green warrant only) or the explicit permission of the landowners. If in doubt, head to one of the holiday parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up, withdraw cash and shop in Ōpōtiki: after that, until Gisborne there are only village shops with limited opening hours, some with a fuel pump. Top up your water at the last large campground – many places on the coast rely on rainwater tanks.
2Stage 2: Waihau Bay to Te Araroa (with East Cape Lighthouse) (approx. 115 km)
- The drive
- Via Whangaparāoa (Cape Runaway), SH35 leaves the coast and crosses hilly farmland and forest to Pōtikirua, then descends to Hicks Bay (Wharekahika) and on to Te Araroa – around 70 km with many bends and short steep sections. From Te Araroa the narrow East Cape Road runs around 20 km along the beach to the lighthouse, largely unsealed, with driftwood and debris on the road after storms; return the same way. The track up to the lighthouse was recently closed to walkers – check the current status before you go; even without the steps, sunrise on the coast below the cape is worth it.
- Highlights & must-sees
- East Cape Lighthouse: New Zealand’s easternmost lighthouse on a hill above the cape, normally reached via around 700 steps (track recently closed); at sunrise one of the first places in the world to see daylight.
- Te Waha o Rerekohu in Te Araroa: a mighty pōhutukawa in the school grounds, regarded as one of the largest in the country.
- Hicks Bay: views from the hill over the bay with the remains of the old freezing works wharf and Onepoto beach.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Te Araroa Holiday Park around 6 km west of the township between trees and beach: powered sites, toilets and showers, kitchen, shop. It is the starting point for the early drive to the lighthouse. There is no camping at the lighthouse itself; the small East Cape Campground near Te Araroa has recently accepted self-contained vehicles only.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Under the Gisborne District Council’s Tairāwhiti Freedom Camping Bylaw 2021, Te Araroa is a prohibited area; overnight stays are not intended at the lighthouse car park either. So stay at the holiday park here.
- Insider tip for campers
- The East Cape Road is unsealed – many rental agreements exclude such roads from insurance cover; check beforehand, otherwise approach the lighthouse on foot from the end of the seal or not at all. For sunrise allow around 45 minutes’ drive and take a head torch; avoid the road after heavy rain because of slips.
3Stage 3: Te Araroa to Tolaga Bay (approx. 130 km)
- The drive
- SH35 turns south into the Waiapu Valley: via Tikitiki and Ruatōria through farmland beneath Hikurangi, then back to the coast at Tokomaru Bay and through the Mangahauini Gorge, past the turn-off to Anaura Bay, to Tolaga Bay. Cyclone Gabrielle hit this stretch particularly hard in 2023; most of the damage has been repaired, but as of October 2026 work was still under way, including the rebuild of Hikuwai Bridge No. 1 north of Tolaga Bay – depending on progress you may still cross the temporary bridge. Expect one-lane sections, traffic lights and gravel patches; around 2.5–3 hours’ driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- St Mary’s Church in Tikitiki: Ngāti Porou Anglican church with rich carvings and woven panels (tukutuku) inside, built as a memorial to those who fell in the First World War; a donation (koha) and quiet behaviour are expected.
- View of Hikurangi from the road near Ruatōria – the sacred mountain of Ngāti Porou.
- Tokomaru Bay: the ruins of the old freezing works and the wharf at the southern end of the bay.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Tolaga Bay Top 10 Holiday Park right on the beach next to the wharf: powered sites, toilets and showers, kitchen, dump station. The park is not open all year round – check in advance; the alternative is Tokomaru Bay Holiday Park. Quiet, draughty in a southerly – retract your awning.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Under the Gisborne District Council bylaw, the Tolaga Bay South, North and wharf car park areas are prohibited for freedom camping. Tokomaru Bay North and South are only open in the winter half of the year (1 May to Labour Weekend) as restricted areas for self-contained vehicles; in summer there are seasonal sites there that require a council permit. Max. 3 consecutive nights within 4 weeks, then at least 1 km away.
- Insider tip for campers
- Before setting off, check the road status on NZTA Journeys (journeys.nzta.govt.nz) – after heavy rain the agency closes sections of SH35 at short notice. Fuel on this stretch is only available at a few village shops, some with limited opening hours and occasionally empty – so fill up in Ōpōtiki and top up at every opportunity along the way.
4Stage 4: Tolaga Bay to Gisborne (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- A short stage on SH35 through hill country and along the coast via Whāngārā, Pouawa and Makorori to Gisborne. Well built, with surfers on the beaches of Wainui and Makorori at sunrise. Less than 1 hour’s driving time – time for the wharf and a walk in the morning.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Tolaga Bay Wharf: the concrete wharf around 660 m long, one of the longest in New Zealand – walk to the end; at high tide children jump into the water.
- Cooks Cove Walkway from Tolaga Bay: around 2.5 hours return across farmland to the cove where James Cook anchored in 1769, with the rock arch Te Kotere o te Whenua; closed during lambing in late winter and spring.
- Tītīrangi (Kaiti Hill) in Gisborne: lookout over the harbour and Poverty Bay, below it the site of the first encounter between Cook’s crew and Māori.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Waikanae Beach Top 10 Holiday Park on Gisborne’s town beach, within walking distance of the centre: power, toilets and showers, kitchen, dump station, washing machines. A large, well-kept park; book early in January.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Gisborne’s urban area as well as Wainui, Okitu and Makorori Beach are prohibited areas. Under the bylaw, freedom camping is permitted with restrictions (self-contained vehicles with a green warrant only) on a few areas such as the Makorori car park, the Midway Surf Club car park, Bright Street and Kaiti Beach. Check the council maps on gdc.govt.nz or in CamperMate; the bylaws are adjusted from time to time.
- Insider tip for campers
- Optional detour (around 100 km return) into the hinterland to Rere Falls and the Rere Rockslide, a natural, wet rock slide – take a bodyboard or an old inner tube; dangerous after rain. Stock up in Gisborne: large supermarkets, petrol stations, gas bottle swaps.
5Stage 5: Gisborne to Māhia Peninsula (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- South on SH2 across the Poverty Bay flats with vineyards and maize fields, then winding through the hill country via Wharerata to the Morere thermal area and down to Nuhaka. There turn left onto the side road to the Māhia Peninsula, over the narrow isthmus at Opoutama to Māhia Beach. Around 1.5 hours’ driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Morere Hot Springs: thermal pools in nīkau palm forest right on SH2, with short walks through the bush.
- Mokotahi Hill at Māhia Beach: a short, steep climb with views over both sides of the peninsula.
- Wide beaches of Hawke Bay at Opoutama and Blue Bay; the rocket launch site at the tip of the peninsula is private land and not accessible.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Holiday park at Māhia Beach: powered sites, toilets and showers, kitchen, close to the beach and shop. Book early in the summer holidays.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Māhia Peninsula is part of the Wairoa District. The Wairoa District Council has its own freedom camping bylaw: certified self-contained vehicles may park on council land unless it is signposted as a prohibited area; on Māhia, Oraka is a designated area. Much of the land on the peninsula is private Māori land and farmland. Check prohibited areas in the council’s brochure and follow the signs at the beaches; dump station at Opoutama Beach.
- Insider tip for campers
- On Māhia the national fishing rules apply to shellfish and crayfish, plus recurring local rāhui (temporary harvesting bans imposed by iwi) – take the notice boards on the beach seriously. Fill up in Gisborne or Wairoa; supplies on the peninsula are limited.
6Stage 6: Māhia Peninsula to Napier (approx. 170 km)
- The drive
- Back to Nuhaka and on SH2 to Wairoa (around 50 km). From Wairoa it gets hilly: SH2 crosses the Mohaka and Waikare rivers in deep gorges and climbs over hills with many bends; at the Waikare Gorge you drive over a temporary bridge because the 2023 cyclone destroyed the old bridge – a new alignment around 4 km long with a permanent bridge is planned or under construction. Then past Lake Tūtira and down over the Devil’s Elbow into the Hawke Bay plains to Napier. Allow around 2 hours for the 117 km from Wairoa; lots of trucks.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Wairoa: the old Portland Island lighthouse, now set up on the riverbank in town.
- Mohaka Viaduct: one of the highest railway bridges in Australasia, clearly visible from SH2 at the Mohaka bridge.
- Lake Tūtira: a quiet lake with walking tracks and birds on the shore, a short break by the road.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Napier Kennedy Park Top 10 Resort in the suburb of Marewa: a large park with power, toilets and showers, kitchens, pool, dump station; around 15 minutes by bike to the Art Deco centre. An overnight stop in Wairoa is possible at the Riverside Motor Camp by the river (Marine Parade), with dump station.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Napier City Council only allows freedom camping on a few designated areas and only for certified self-contained vehicles; the seafront (Marine Parade) is not a campground. Check current areas and maximum stays on the council website or in CamperMate. At Lake Tūtira the regional authority (Hawke’s Bay Regional Council) designates overnight spots – check the rules and conditions on site.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel and water in Wairoa; there are hardly any services between Wairoa and the Hawke Bay plains. The Devil’s Elbow is steep and winding: use a low gear downhill and let fast trucks pass at pull-over bays.
7Stage 7: Napier to Hastings (via Te Mata Peak) (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- Morning in Napier, then across the flat Hawke Bay plains with vineyards and orchards to Hastings and on to Havelock North. From there Te Mata Peak Road climbs, narrow and winding, to the summit at just under 400 m – not recommended with large motorhomes; the alternative is on foot via the tracks in Te Mata Park.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Art Deco quarter in Napier: town centre rebuilt after the 1931 earthquake, with the Daily Telegraph Building, Marine Parade and the National Tobacco building in Ahuriri; guided walks from the Art Deco Centre.
- Bluff Hill Lookout in Napier: views over the port and Hawke Bay.
- Te Mata Peak: a ridge above the plains with views as far as Ruapehu on clear days; for Ngāti Kahungunu the reclining body of the ancestor Rongokako.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Hastings Top 10 Holiday Park on Windsor Avenue, quiet next to Windsor Park: power, toilets and showers, kitchen, pool, dump facility. A good base for wineries, cycle trails and Cape Kidnappers.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Hastings District Council only allows certified self-contained vehicles to stay overnight on a few designated areas, such as Clifton Road Reserve between Haumoana and Te Awanga or Evers-Swindell Reserve in Clive; at the town car park on Eastbourne Street a maximum of 2 nights per calendar month applies. Use the council maps and CamperMate; signage on site applies.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Hawke’s Bay Trails are a network of mostly flat cycle trails between Napier, Hastings, wineries and the coast – hire or bring a bike and leave the camper parked. On Sunday mornings a large farmers’ market takes place at the Showground in Hastings. Access to Te Mata Peak may be closed at night; check opening hours at the park.
8Stage 8: Hastings to Clifton (Cape Kidnappers) (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- Via Havelock North and Haumoana along the eroded gravel coast to Clifton at the end of the road; a short section of Clifton Road may be closed to vehicles because of erosion. Short and flat; the day is set not by the road but by the tide table. Drive back to Hastings or Napier in the afternoon.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Beach walk from Clifton to Cape Kidnappers/Te Kauwae-a-Māui: around 19 km return beneath high, crumbling cliffs with visible rock strata.
- Black Reef, the first gannet colony, and the Plateau colony via a short, steep climb from the beach.
- The rock pinnacles at the cape itself, with views across Hawke Bay back to Napier.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Back to Hastings Top 10 Holiday Park or to Napier. The former campground in Clifton is being abandoned because of coastal erosion; the nearest designated area for self-contained vehicles is Clifton Road Reserve between Haumoana and Te Awanga.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the gannet reserve, camping, fires, dogs and vehicles off the beach are prohibited. On the coast between Haumoana and Clifton the Hastings District Council rules apply – designated areas only, with a green warrant.
- Insider tip for campers
- The walk is only possible around low tide: start no earlier than three hours after high tide and turn back at the cape no later than one and a half hours after low tide; allow at least 5 hours for the return trip (DOC). The track from the beach to the Plateau colony has reopened after a slip closure, but is closed every year from July until one week before Labour Weekend; the best time is November to February. Keep at least 5 m away from nesting gannets. Hastings District Council may close the beach after heavy rain or earthquakes and explicitly warns of danger to life from rockfall – check the current status with DOC. If the tides put you off, book a tour across the farmland.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Self-Contained Motor Vehicles Legislation Act 2023: freedom camping in a vehicle on public land is now only allowed in a certified self-contained vehicle – proof is the green warrant with an entry in the national register. For rental vehicles this has applied since 7 December 2024; for private vehicles the extended transition period ended on 7 June 2026, and since then blue warrants no longer count. A fixed toilet is mandatory.
- Fines: NZ$400 for camping without valid certification on freedom camping areas; breaches of local bylaws (prohibited areas, maximum stays) are penalised in addition.
- Gisborne District Council (Tairāwhiti Freedom Camping Bylaw 2021): prohibited areas include Gisborne’s urban area, Wainui, Okitu, Makorori Beach, Tolaga Bay and Te Araroa; restricted areas for self-contained vehicles only; seasonal sites in summer only with a council permit; a maximum of 3 consecutive nights in 4 weeks at the same place. Wairoa, Napier and Hastings have their own bylaws – use the council maps locally.
- Māori land: large parts of the East Cape coast are communally owned land of iwi and hapū, not public land. Do not camp without the owners’ permission, do not open gates, do not light fires. Urupā (cemeteries) are tapu and must not be entered; rāhui (temporary bans on fishing or gathering) also apply to visitors.
- Marae etiquette: you only enter a marae by invitation, usually with a welcome ceremony (pōwhiri). In the wharenui take your shoes off, do not eat, do not sit on tables; photos of carvings and people only with permission. A small gift of money (koha) is customary, also in churches such as Tikitiki.
- Apps: CamperMate (with council data, dump stations and road notices) and WikiCamps show holiday parks, DOC campsites and freedom camping areas; signage on site takes precedence. Check fire bans and fire danger levels on checkitsalright.nz.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations: in the larger towns (including Gisborne, Wairoa with War Memorial Park and Riverside Motor Camp, Napier, Hastings), at Opoutama Beach on Māhia and at the holiday parks, some for guests only. Between Ōpōtiki and Gisborne the holiday parks are practically the only dump facilities. Check locations in CamperMate.
- Water: many places along SH35 are supplied from rainwater tanks; use water sparingly there and boil or filter it before drinking unless it is expressly marked as drinking water. Fill up in Ōpōtiki, Gisborne and Napier.
- Gas: 9 kg LPG bottles are standard and are swapped or refilled at petrol stations and hardware stores – easy in Gisborne, Napier and Hastings, hardly possible on the East Cape. European bottles and fittings do not fit.
- Fuel: between Ōpōtiki and Tolaga Bay there are only a few pumps at village shops, some with restricted opening hours, a surcharge or occasionally empty. Never drive on with less than half a tank. Diesel rental vehicles pay Road User Charges by the kilometre – usually included in the rental price.
- Shopping: large supermarkets only in Ōpōtiki, Gisborne, Wairoa, Napier and Hastings; in between, village shops with basics. Carry cash for small shops and koha.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Driving on the left: roundabouts go clockwise, and indicators and wipers are often swapped in rental vehicles. Many one-lane bridges on SH35 – a sign with a large white arrow shows who has priority.
- Speed limits: generally 100 km/h outside built-up areas and 50 km/h in towns, with lower limits on many sections of SH35 and SH2 and winding sections with advisory signs. Vehicles over 3.5 t and vehicles towing a trailer max. 90 km/h.
- Tolls: there are no toll roads on this route. If you travel from Auckland via Tauranga you use tolled sections; pay online with NZTA.
- Road conditions after Cyclone Gabrielle: most of the damage to SH35 and SH2 has been repaired, while individual major projects (including the Hikuwai bridge on SH35 and the realignment of the Waikare Gorge on SH2) are still under way or about to start; roadworks lights, temporary bridges and gravel patches are normal. After heavy rain check the status on NZTA Journeys.
- Animals and traffic: horses, cattle and sheep on the road, possums at night; logging and stock trucks on tight bends. Unsealed roads such as the East Cape Road are excluded from insurance cover in many rental agreements – check beforehand.
- Licence and alcohol: a foreign driving licence is valid for up to twelve months if it is in English or you carry an approved translation or an International Driving Permit. 0.5 per mille from age 20, zero below that; phones hands-free only. Emergency number 111; mobile coverage on the East Cape is patchy.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Tide table or tide app with offline data: essential for Cape Kidnappers, the East Cape Road and beach access.
- Offline maps and an emergency plan without signal: between Ōpōtiki and Gisborne there is no mobile coverage at all over long stretches.
- Water filter or stove for boiling: on the East Cape the water often comes from rain tanks.
- Head torch and windproof jacket: for the drive to the East Cape in the dark before sunrise and, if reopened, the around 700 steps to the lighthouse.
- Cash in small notes: for village shops, fuel pumps without card readers and koha in churches or on a marae.
- Insect repellent against sandflies and high-factor sun protection: the beaches from Waihau Bay to Clifton offer hardly any shade.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
