In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Taumarunui over the Forgotten World Highway to Taranaki, along the Surf Highway 45, over the Whanganui River Road and the Kāpiti Coast to Wellington: around 885 kilometres of left-hand driving between clay gorges, volcanic slopes and the Tasman Sea.
The spirit of the route
This route begins where the phone signal ends. Beyond Taumarunui, State Highway 43 winds over four saddles and through a gorge of ferns and clay walls, sheep stand on the road, and in Whangamōmona the publican stamps passports for a republic that exists only in the pub. Then suddenly Taranaki appears on the horizon, an almost symmetrical cone that disappears into cloud in a westerly and rises freshly snow-capped out of the pastureland the next morning. On the Surf Highway the air smells of salt and silage, and in the evening you hear the surf on black sand through the open sliding door. On the Whanganui the road follows a river that is recognised as a legal person, past marae and a church of French sisters. Finally the wind carries you along the Kāpiti Coast to Wellington – slowly, with plenty of stops, the way the North Island wants to be driven here.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Taumarunui to Whangamōmona (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- From Taumarunui head west on SH43, first through farmland, then in tight bends through the Tāngarākau Gorge, the Moki Tunnel and over the Tahora Saddle. The last 12 km or so of gravel in the gorge were sealed in early 2025, so the entire highway is now paved – but in places the road is still only 4 to 5 m wide, with steep banks, no centre line and one-lane bridges. Around 2 hours of pure driving time, considerably more with photo stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Tāngarākau Gorge: tree ferns, nīkau palms and rock walls right beside the road; short detour to the grave of surveyor Joshua Morgan from 1893.
- Moki Tunnel (“Hobbit’s Hole”): single-lane tunnel from 1936, around 180 m long, with a lowered road surface – watch for oncoming traffic before you enter.
- Tahora Saddle with views over the crumpled hill country, old pā sites and railway tunnels; shortly afterwards the highway reaches Whangamōmona.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Whangamōmona Camp Ground on the edge of the village on the grounds of the former school: a simple community site with powered sites, kitchen and showers, a few steps from the Whangamōmona Hotel. If you don’t want to drive the pass yet, stay the night before in Taumarunui at Taumarunui Holiday Park on the Whanganui River. Check payment and current facilities in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Much of SH43 runs through private land and areas of the Ruapehu and Stratford District Councils; pull-outs and bridge approaches are not overnight spots. The campground in Whangamōmona is the obvious and legal choice – freedom camping only with a green warrant and only where the relevant council bylaw permits it.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up the tank and the water in Taumarunui: between Taumarunui and Stratford there are around 150 km without a petrol station, and there is no mobile coverage over long stretches. Download offline maps. At the Whangamōmona Hotel you can get the “Passport” of the Republic of Whangamōmona stamped.
2Stage 2: Whangamōmona to New Plymouth via the Stratford Plateau (approx. 140 km)
- The drive
- Over the Whangamōmona, Pohokura and Strathmore saddles on SH43 to Stratford, from here wider and with a centre line. From Stratford take Pembroke Road around 18 km uphill to the Stratford Plateau at just over 1,100 m – steep and winding in the upper section; in heavy vehicles go easy on the brakes. Back to Stratford and on SH3 via Inglewood to New Plymouth. A good 2.5 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Stratford Plateau in Te Papa-Kura-o-Taranaki National Park (Egmont National Park until April 2025): views across the eastern flank of Taranaki to Ruapehu and Ngāuruhoe on a clear day.
- Short walk from the plateau towards the Manganui Gorge or along the Wilkies Pools section towards Dawson Falls (depending on conditions and snow).
- Glockenspiel clock tower in Stratford with figures from “Romeo and Juliet” – the town’s street names come from Shakespeare.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In New Plymouth, Belt Road Seaside Holiday Park sits on the cliff above the port at the start of the Coastal Walkway, and Fitzroy Beach Holiday Park lies at the eastern end of the walkway right on the beach – both with powered sites, bathrooms and kitchen; book ahead in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Sleeping in your vehicle is not permitted in the national park; the car parks at Stratford Plateau, North Egmont and Dawson Falls are day car parks only. The New Plymouth District Council’s Freedom Camping Bylaw 2024 prohibits vehicle camping at, among other places, Fitzroy Beach Carpark, Back Beach, Ōākura beach, the Waiwhakaiho river mouth and East End Beach; outside the prohibited zones, self-contained vehicles may stay a maximum of three nights within 30 days within a 500 m radius. The council’s map shows the exact zones.
- Insider tip for campers
- On Taranaki the weather changes quickly: the summit is most often clear in the morning, and clouds often build in the afternoon. Before driving up to the plateau, check the forecast and DOC notices on roads and tracks. Stratford is a good place for cheap fuel and shopping.
3Stage 3: New Plymouth to Ōpunake (Surf Highway 45) (approx. 95 km)
- The drive
- In the morning take Mangorei Road around 10 km uphill to the road end at the national park boundary, then back and on SH45 south-west via Ōākura, Okato and Pungarehu to Ōpunake. The “Surf Highway” is well built and mostly straight, with short side roads to the beaches; detour via Cape Road to the lighthouse. Around 1.5 hours of driving time plus the walk.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pouakai Tarns from Mangorei Road: steep climb up steps and boardwalks (around 2 to 2.5 hours each way) to the mountain tarns in which Taranaki is reflected.
- Coastal Walkway in New Plymouth with the Te Rewa Rewa Bridge, whose arch frames the summit of Taranaki.
- Cape Egmont Lighthouse near Pungarehu, the iron lighthouse at Taranaki’s westernmost point.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Ōpunake Beach Holiday Park right behind the beach and at the start of the Ōpunake Lake Walkway: powered sites, bathrooms, kitchen, dump station. In summer surfers and families from the region come here – book in good time.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): South Taranaki District Council allows freedom camping only in certain areas and usually only for vehicles with a green warrant; many beach access roads off the Surf Highway have no-camping signs, and the access roads often cross farmland. Check the council’s map and the signage.
- Insider tip for campers
- The car park at the end of Mangorei Road is small and fills up early at weekends – turning a large camper there is difficult. Set off before 8 am. In Ōpunake the Mural Trail, with large-scale murals on the town’s history, is worth a walk.
4Stage 4: Ōpunake to Whanganui via Dawson Falls and Hāwera (approx. 175 km)
- The drive
- On back roads through pastureland to Kaponga and along Manaia Road to Dawson Falls on the southern flank of Taranaki, then back to Kaponga and on to Hāwera. From there on SH3 via Pātea and Waverley to Whanganui – flat to rolling country road with dairy-tanker traffic. Around 2.5 hours of driving time in total.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Dawson Falls: short track through moss-draped “Goblin Forest” to the Kapuni Stream’s waterfall, around 18 m high.
- Tawhiti Museum near Hāwera with dioramas and scenes from Taranaki’s settler and war history – check opening days in advance, they are limited.
- Sarjeant Gallery Te Whare o Rehua in Whanganui, reopened at the end of 2024 after earthquake strengthening and extension.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Whanganui River Top 10 Holiday Park in Aramoho on the riverbank, around 6 km north of the centre, with powered sites, bathrooms and dump station; a convenient starting point for the River Road. By the sea, Castlecliff Seaside Holiday Park lies close to the black-sand beach.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Since November 2025 the Whanganui District Council’s new freedom camping bylaw has applied: freedom camping is permitted only for certified self-contained vehicles in designated areas, such as the upper car parks at Castlecliff Beach, Moutoa Quay or Westmere Lake, usually for a maximum of four nights within four weeks. The town centre is a prohibited zone – check the council’s map, and if in doubt use the holiday park instead.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up and stock up in Hāwera or Whanganui: there is no petrol station and no supermarket on the River Road. Near Pātea the Aotea Waka memorial stands right on SH3 – an easy photo stop with a large car park.
5Stage 5: Whanganui to Pipiriki (Whanganui River Road) (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- From Whanganui head north on SH4 and turn onto the Whanganui River Road at Upokongaro. The road follows the river in countless bends through hills and steep banks; it is narrow, partly single-lane and prone to slips – around 2 hours for 80 km is realistic. Several one-lane bridges.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Aramoana lookout high above the river valley, shortly after the start of the River Road.
- Kawana Flour Mill near Matahiwi, a restored 19th-century water mill beside the road.
- Hiruhārama (Jerusalem) with St Joseph’s Church and the convent of the order of sisters founded by Suzanne Aubert – visit only with consideration, it is an inhabited place.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Pipiriki has a privately run campground with some powered sites, kitchen and showers, near the landing at the end point of the “Whanganui Journey” canoe trip; in Rānana there is the community-run Kauika Campsite by the river, with basic facilities. Check status, booking and facilities in advance. If you want comfort, do it as a day trip and return to Whanganui.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The land along the River Road belongs mostly to iwi and marae or to private owners; since the Te Awa Tupua Act 2017 the Whanganui River has been recognised as a legal person. The Whanganui District Council bylaw prohibits freedom camping along the entire River Road; riverbanks and marae land are off limits anyway – use official campsites only.
- Insider tip for campers
- From Pipiriki jet boats run to the Mangapurua landing, from where a walk of around 40 minutes leads to the “Bridge to Nowhere” in Whanganui National Park – book in advance. Many rental agreements exclude roads at risk of slips or with gravel sections from insurance cover; check the terms for the River Road and look up the road status with Whanganui District Council.
6Stage 6: Pipiriki to Palmerston North (approx. 155 km)
- The drive
- The River Road back to Whanganui – with the light from the other side – and on SH3 via Bulls to Palmerston North. From Whanganui it is a wide country road through the flat Manawatū. Around 3 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Te Manawa in Palmerston North, a museum with the New Zealand Rugby Museum under the same roof.
- Victoria Esplanade on the Manawatū River with rose garden, miniature railway and riverside paths, right next to the holiday park.
- Te Āpiti – Manawatū Gorge: walking track through the gorge and views of the wind farms on the Ruahine and Tararua Ranges, around 15 km east of the city; since 2025 the new Te Ahu a Turanga highway has replaced the closed gorge road.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Palmerston North Holiday Park on Dittmer Drive next to the Victoria Esplanade, with powered sites, bathrooms and kitchen, within walking distance of the river. Alternative east of the city: Ashhurst Domain Campground at the entrance to the Manawatū Gorge, basic facilities, fee payable.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Palmerston North City Council allows freedom camping only in a few designated areas, usually only for vehicles with a green warrant; length of stay is limited. Check the current map on the council website.
- Insider tip for campers
- Bulls is worth a short stop – the signs play on the town’s name (“Const-a-bull”, “Cure-a-bull”). Palmerston North has large supermarkets and petrol stations; stock up before the Kāpiti Coast.
7Stage 7: Palmerston North to Paekākāriki (approx. 105 km)
- The drive
- On SH56 to Foxton, then south on SH1 via Levin and Ōtaki; from Peka Peka on the expressway along the Kāpiti Coast to Paekākāriki. A flat, busy route; the new expressway is under construction between Ōtaki and Levin, so expect roadworks and changing traffic layouts. A good 1.5 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- De Molen in Foxton, a replica Dutch windmill that grinds flour; plus the Manawatū Estuary at Foxton Beach, a Ramsar wetland with wading birds.
- Ngā Manu Nature Reserve near Waikanae with swamp forest and a nocturnal kiwi house.
- Paekākāriki Escarpment Track: around 10 km of hillside track with swing bridges and many steps high above the coast, part of Te Araroa – return by train between Paekākāriki and Pukerua Bay.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Paekākāriki Holiday Park in Queen Elizabeth Park, a few minutes from the beach and the railway station: powered sites, bathrooms, kitchen. For city visits to Wellington, the train from Paekākāriki is a stress-free alternative to driving the camper.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Under Kāpiti Coast District Council, certified self-contained vehicles may park on council land only where this is not prohibited or restricted; a bylaw with designated sites and length-of-stay limits was set in motion in 2025. Freedom camping is generally not permitted on reserves, nor in Queen Elizabeth Park (a regional park). Check the council’s current map.
- Insider tip for campers
- Boats leave from Paraparaumu Beach for Kāpiti Island, a predator-free bird island: crossings and visits are limited and must be booked in advance, and trips are cancelled in westerly winds. For the Escarpment Track bring sturdy shoes and a head for heights; it is dangerous in a storm.
8Stage 8: Paekākāriki to Wellington (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- Via Transmission Gully (SH1), the toll-free motorway through the hinterland opened in 2022, to Porirua and on along SH1 to Wellington. Since February 2026 the limit on Transmission Gully has been 110 km/h for light vehicles and 90 km/h for heavy vehicles and vehicles towing. Steep descent through the Ngauranga Gorge into the city; around 45 minutes in total. The old Paekākāriki Hill Road with its lookout is narrow and steep – only for small campers.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Te Papa Tongarewa on the waterfront, the national museum, with free entry to the permanent exhibitions.
- Mount Victoria Lookout with panoramic views over the harbour, city and airport – with a large camper better go by bus or on foot, the summit road is narrow.
- Red Rocks on the south coast: around 4 km coastal walk from Ōwhiro Bay to red pillow-lava rocks, with resting fur seals in winter – keep your distance.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Wellington Top 10 Holiday Park in Lower Hutt (Hutt Park Road) with powered sites, bathrooms and dump station; bus and train into the city centre. Well placed for the ferry to the South Island, but book early.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Wellington City Council allows freedom camping only for vehicles with a green warrant, for example on 52 designated sites at Evans Bay Marina (which also has a public dump station) or at Te Kopahou Visitor Centre (not for vehicles over 7 m), for a maximum of four consecutive nights per calendar month. Staying overnight is prohibited on all reserves, including many coastal car parks on the south coast; violations cost NZ$400.
- Insider tip for campers
- In the city centre, parking for campers is scarce and expensive, and car park buildings have height restrictions – leave the camper at the holiday park. Wellington is known for wind: hold the sliding door and keep the awning retracted in gusts, and take the wind direction into account when parking.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Self-Contained Motor Vehicles Legislation Act 2023: freedom camping in vehicles on council land is permitted only in a certified self-contained vehicle, unless a council expressly designates areas for other vehicles too. Rental vehicles have needed the green warrant since 7 December 2024; for private vehicles the extended transition period ended on 7 June 2026 – since then only green warrants have been valid for freedom camping on public land.
- Requirements for the green warrant include a permanently fixed toilet; display the warrant card visibly on the windscreen. If you stay on a freedom camping area without a valid warrant, you risk a NZ$400 fine; violations of local bylaws (prohibited zones, length of stay) come on top.
- On this route the bylaws of twelve councils apply: Ruapehu, Stratford, New Plymouth, South Taranaki, Whanganui, Rangitīkei, Manawatū, Palmerston North, Horowhenua, Kāpiti Coast, Porirua and Wellington. Each council publishes maps of permitted, restricted and prohibited areas – in New Plymouth, for example, the 2024 bylaw closes Fitzroy Beach Carpark, Back Beach and Ōākura beach to vehicle camping. In Whanganui the entire River Road is a prohibited zone.
- In Te Papa-Kura-o-Taranaki National Park and Whanganui National Park, sleeping in your vehicle outside designated sites is not permitted; road ends such as North Egmont, Stratford Plateau and Dawson Falls are day car parks. Many DOC campsites can only be used with advance online booking.
- Apps: CamperMate (with council data, dump stations and closure notices) and WikiCamps show holiday parks, DOC campsites and freedom camping areas. The signage on site always takes precedence.
Waste disposal & supplies
- There are dump stations in Taumarunui, Stratford, New Plymouth, Hāwera, Whanganui, Palmerston North and on the Kāpiti Coast, plus at almost all holiday parks (some for guests only). Locations are in CamperMate; never empty grey water or the toilet cassette into drains or onto the ground.
- Drinking water: tap water in the towns and at holiday parks is generally drinkable; at basic campsites such as those on the River Road it may come from rain tanks or streams – follow the signs, and if in doubt boil or filter it.
- Gas: the standard is 9 kg LPG bottles, which are swapped or refilled at petrol stations and hardware stores. Only bottles with a valid test date are refilled; European bottles and connectors do not fit, and adapters will not help here. Rental campervans have suitable bottles – check the level before long stretches.
- Fuel: there is no petrol station between Taumarunui and Stratford (around 150 km) or on the Whanganui River Road; on the Surf Highway only in Ōākura, Okato and Ōpunake. On SH3 and SH1 the network is dense.
- Diesel: diesel vehicles pay Road User Charges based on kilometres driven; with rental vehicles this is usually included in the bill – clarify in advance.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Left-hand traffic: roundabouts are driven clockwise, and vehicles from the right have priority. One-lane bridges are common on SH43 and the River Road – signs show who has priority (large white arrow).
- Speed limits: 100 km/h outside built-up areas, 50 km/h in built-up areas, 80 or 60 km/h on many sections. Since February 2026 the limit on Transmission Gully has been 110 km/h for light vehicles; vehicles over 3.5 t and vehicles towing may drive at a maximum of 90 km/h. Enforcement by fixed and mobile cameras.
- Tolls: there are no toll roads on this route – Transmission Gully is toll-free too. New Zealand’s toll roads are north of Auckland and in Tauranga; the government has decided on a toll for the southern section of the Ōtaki–Levin expressway now under construction, but its opening is still years away.
- Animals and road conditions: on SH43 and the River Road sheep and cattle often stand on the road, and stock droves have priority; at night, possums. After rain there is a risk of slips and rockfall, and logging and milk trucks come towards you even on tight bends.
- Rental campervans and insurance: many rental agreements exclude unsealed roads wholly or partly from insurance cover, and some name individual routes explicitly – check the terms before driving SH43 and the River Road. Foreign driving licences are valid for up to twelve months if they are in English or are presented with an approved translation or an International Driving Permit.
- Alcohol and phones: for drivers aged 20 and over the limit is 0.5 per mille, below that zero. Phones only in a fixed mount; seat belts are compulsory in all seats. Check road status on NZTA Journeys and the weather at MetService; emergency number 111.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Offline maps and printed bookings: on SH43 and along the River Road there is no mobile network over long stretches.
- Wind and rain jacket, warm layer and sturdy walking boots: on Taranaki and on the Escarpment Track the weather turns quickly.
- Insect repellent against sandflies: on the Whanganui River and at the river mouths they reliably bite at dusk.
- Wetsuit: on the Surf Highway the Tasman Sea is cool even in summer, and the waves on the beaches around Ōpunake invite you to surf.
- Binoculars: for fur seals at Red Rocks, wading birds in the Manawatū Estuary and the views from the saddles of the Forgotten World Highway.
- Have brakes and tyres checked before you start: Pembroke Road, SH43 and the River Road call for long descents in a low gear.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
