In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Doolin through the Burren, Galway and Connemara to Killary Fjord, on to Westport and the cliff island of Achill: around 590 kilometres of Ireland’s wildest west coast, on roads that have their own rules for wide motorhomes.
The spirit of the route
In the west of Ireland the weather is a travelling companion. One moment the rain hangs sideways across the Burren, the next the sky tears open and the grey limestone gleams silver all the way down to the sea. From your sliding door you see sheep on the stone walls, peat smoke from chimneys and, far out, the Aran Islands in the haze. In Connemara lakes lie like scattered mirrors between brown bogs, Killary Fjord runs like a dark ribbon between the mountains, and on Achill the cliffs of Croaghaun plunge almost 700 metres into the sea. In the evening you sit in a pub where someone unpacks a fiddle without any announcement. The roads are narrow, the walls close, and the calm comes by itself as soon as you drive slower than the speedometer allows.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Ennis to Doolin (via Lahinch and the Cliffs of Moher) (approx. 65 km)
- The drive
- From Ennis take the N85 north, then at Ennistymon join the N67 to Lahinch and continue via Liscannor along the coast on the R478 to the Cliffs of Moher; after that it is a short drive on the R478 to Doolin. Well-built country roads, narrow and busy in summer only in Lahinch, Liscannor and Doolin. A good 1.5 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Cliffs of Moher: the cliff path with a view of O’Brien’s Tower, around 200 m above the Atlantic. It is quietest in the first hours after opening and in the late afternoon.
- Hag’s Head south of the main cliffs: the coastal path there is much emptier and leads to an old signal tower.
- Doolin: pubs with traditional music (Gus O’Connor’s, McGann’s) and the ferry harbour for the Aran Islands.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Nagle’s Camping & Caravan Park in Doolin, a short walk to the pubs, with electric hook-up and sanitary facilities according to OSM data; as an alternative, the Aille River Hostel Campsite on the edge of the village, simpler and quieter. Ask about opening times and pitches for large motorhomes in advance, and book in high summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Ireland has no general right to wild camping; overnighting in a vehicle at the roadside or in car parks may be prohibited depending on the place and signs, and many communities and landowners dislike it. Overnighting in the visitor car park at the Cliffs of Moher is not permitted. If you want to stay legally off-site, use pub and farm pitches whose operators welcome campers (a selection is listed on park4night or Campercontact).
- Insider tip for campers
- Tickets for the Cliffs of Moher are cheaper online with a time slot than on site, and you should check on the official Cliffs of Moher website in advance whether and where motorhomes can park (height and length restrictions, parking fees). The R478 coast road has bumps and is rarely wider than two cars. Fuel and shopping are better in Ennistymon or Ennis than in Doolin.
2Stage 2: Doolin to Galway (via the Burren and Kinvara) (approx. 100 km)
- The drive
- From Doolin take the coast road through the village of Fanore and the coastal strip of the Burren, past Black Head, and on to Ballyvaughan. From there follow the N67 over Corkscrew Hill, through Kinvara and on along the road to Galway. Partly narrow, stone-lined coast road with limited visibility; more comfortable from Ballyvaughan. Around 2.5 hours without stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Black Head: coast road at the lighthouse, where the Burren limestone drops straight into the sea.
- Poulnabrone Dolmen, a portal tomb around 5,000 years old in the middle of the karst plateau (a short detour on the R480).
- Dunguaire Castle in Kinvara harbour, a 16th-century tower house on a rock by the water.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Salthill Caravan Park on the western edge of Galway, around 3 km from the centre, near the seafront promenade; with electric hook-up and a water point according to OSM data. In the Burren itself, Fanore Caravan Park lies right on the coast at Fanore, if you want to stop a little earlier after stage 1. Have opening times and motorhome pitches confirmed in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Burren, car parks and roadsides are popular with campers, but nature reserves and private land dominate; the Burren Programme asks for particular consideration, and parking overnight outside campsites is not tolerated in practice. In Galway itself, overnighting in public car parks is not usual; parking charges apply around the clock.
- Insider tip for campers
- The road between Fanore and Black Head has narrow sections: drive carefully, use passing places and, with a wide vehicle, switch to the main road via Lisdoonvarna and the N67. In Galway leave the motorhome in Salthill and take the city bus into the centre; the old town has pedestrian zones, and multi-storey car parks are usually too low for motorhomes.
3Stage 3: Galway to Clifden (via the Connemara coast road) (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- From Galway take the R336 through Spiddal, Inverin and Costelloe, continue via Screeb and Carna towards Roundstone and Ballyconneely, then take the R341 to Clifden. The coast road is winding and narrow, with oncoming traffic and cyclists; the landscape changes from granite humps to lakes and bogs. Pure driving time a good 3 hours, a full day with stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Dog’s Bay and Gurteen Bay near Roundstone: white shell-sand beaches with turquoise water, Dog’s Bay with a small car park at the edge of the dunes.
- Roundstone with its small harbour and a view of the Twelve Bens.
- Alcock and Brown Landing Site near Ballyconneely, where the first non-stop transatlantic flight ended in 1919.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Clifden Campsite and Caravan Park on the edge of Clifden with electric hook-up, sanitary facilities and service points according to OSM; the Clifden Eco Beach Camping & Caravanning Park on the peninsula north-west of the town offers more of a beach setting, with access to the beach, but along narrow roads. Check in advance for pitches for large vehicles.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At beaches such as Dog’s Bay and Gurteen Bay the car parks are mostly free of charge, but signs there often rule out overnight parking. In Connemara there are a few farm and pub pitches for campers; check the current situation on park4night or Campercontact.
- Insider tip for campers
- If your motorhome is wider than 2.2 m, drive the coast road only outside the midday hours and wait for oncoming traffic in passing places. The N59 from Galway via Oughterard to Clifden is faster and wider. It is worth filling up in Clifden or beforehand in Oughterard, as the coastal villages have few petrol stations.
4Stage 4: Clifden to Renvyle (via the Sky Road, Letterfrack and Kylemore) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- First the Sky Road as a loop west of Clifden (narrow, with passing places and gradients – rather unsuitable for large motorhomes), then take the N59 to Letterfrack and Kylemore. Continue on the road towards Tullycross to the Renvyle peninsula. Driving time just under 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Sky Road: view over Clifden Bay and the islands offshore, a must by car or bicycle, but weigh it up with a motorhome.
- Kylemore Abbey with its Victorian Walled Garden on Pollacapall Lough, a neo-Gothic castle with a Benedictine nunnery.
- Connemara National Park near Letterfrack: hike up Diamond Hill (around 445 m) with views as far as the coast.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Renvyle Beach Caravan & Camping Park on a sandy beach on the Renvyle peninsula, with electric hook-up and sanitary facilities according to portal information. As an alternative, the Connemara Caravan & Camping Park near Tullycross on the Renvyle peninsula. Book in advance by phone or online, especially in July and August.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Kylemore and in the national park, overnighting in the visitor car parks is not permitted. Along the N59 there are lay-bys that are often meant for parking, not camping, at night; take signs and notices on site seriously.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Sky Road is a risk for motorhomes over 6 m; alternatives are the main road or a bicycle ride from Clifden. The car park at Kylemore Abbey is laid out for motorhomes, and you buy admission tickets online; the gardens are emptier early in the morning. Letterfrack has shops and fuel.
5Stage 5: Renvyle to Westport (via Leenane, Doo Lough and Louisburgh) (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- From Renvyle go back to the N59 and east to Leenane on Killary Fjord, then continue on the N59 and at Aasleagh turn onto the R335 towards Delphi, Doo Lough and Louisburgh. From there go via Murrisk at the foot of Croagh Patrick to Westport. Partly narrow, through the Doo Lough valley with its lakes and mountains. Around 2.5 to 3 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Killary Fjord: Ireland’s only fjord, with views from Leenane and from the road on the south shore; Aasleagh Falls right next to it.
- Doo Lough: valley with a cross memorial to the Famine of 1849, narrow road between lake and hillside.
- Croagh Patrick near Murrisk: the pilgrimage mountain (764 m), ascent from the car park in around 3 to 4 hours there and back.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Westport House Caravan & Camping Park in the grounds of Westport House on the edge of the town; according to the operator’s website the site accepts motorhomes; check opening times and status in advance following the change of ownership of the estate. Westport also has further sites near the town – choose on the spot or via park4night.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Croagh Patrick the car parks are meant for walkers; overnight parking there is unusual and may be prohibited. In Westport itself, pitches and car parks for campers are limited; note the charges and height barriers.
- Insider tip for campers
- The road through the Doo Lough valley is narrow but beautiful; with sheep on the road and oncoming traffic, drive at walking pace. Westport is a good supply stop: supermarkets, petrol stations and gas bottles for sale. If you climb Croagh Patrick, start early – the weather turns quickly up top, and the car park in Murrisk fills up by late morning.
6Stage 6: Westport to Keel (Achill Island) (approx. 65 km)
- The drive
- From Westport take the N59 via Newport to Mulranny, then the R319 over the bridge at Achill Sound onto the island and on to Keel and Dooagh. Well-built country road, single-track with passing places on Achill. Around 1.5 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Mulranny: viewpoint over Clew Bay and the beach, where the Great Western Greenway runs.
- Keel Strand and the Menawn Cliffs: sandy beach with dark cliffs in the background.
- Slievemore and the deserted village of Slievemore: ruins of stone houses on the hillside.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Keel Camping (Sandybanks) right on the beach in Keel, with electric hook-up and sanitary facilities according to portal information; Seal Caves Caravan & Camping as an alternative on the island. Clarify opening times and motorhome sizes in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Achill, car parks at beaches and viewpoints are common, but overnighting by campers is contested in places; signs often say “No overnight parking”. If you want to be on the safe side, book a campsite or pub pitch; for Keel, portals list a pub pitch (Lavelle’s) – check the current situation on site.
- Insider tip for campers
- The road to Keem Bay is narrow and steep; for larger motorhomes it is critical because of oncoming traffic and turning options. Mayo County Council has banned overnighting in vehicles there by bye-law (2021); consider going by bicycle or taxi from Keel and check access in advance. Fill up in Westport or Mulranny, as petrol stations on the island are rare.
7Stage 7: Keel to Westport (via the Atlantic Drive and the Great Western Greenway) (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- From Keel go back via Achill Sound, then take the Atlantic Drive (R319 south of Achill Sound, around 15 km, narrow with coastal views), then via Mulranny and Newport back to Westport. The coast road is tight, and oncoming traffic waits in passing places. Around 2 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Atlantic Drive: coast road with views of cliffs and bays, as far as Croagh Patrick on clear days.
- Great Western Greenway: former railway line between Westport and Achill Sound, loveliest from Mulranny along Clew Bay.
- Newport: stone bridge and viaduct, small harbour on the River Newport.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Back in Westport at Westport House Caravan & Camping Park or another site near the town; if you want to head home or to the ferry the next day, this is a good place to stay well prepared. Check pitches and opening times in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Mayo, too, there is no general right to wild camping. Some communities and landowners tolerate short stops, but do not tolerate camping with chairs, awning or grey water; where signs prohibit it, keep to the ban.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Greenway is ideal for cycling: bicycles can be hired in Westport, and the route can be shortened by taking the bus or a taxi back. Sort out gas, groceries and waste disposal in Westport before you continue to the ferry port.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In the Republic of Ireland there is no general right to wild camping (no right of public access as in Scandinavia). Overnighting in a vehicle on public roads or in car parks is not prohibited across the board, but may be ruled out by county bye-laws and signs (“No overnight parking”, “No camping”). Entering and camping on private land without permission is trespass.
- Several counties along the Wild Atlantic Way have tightened or discussed camper rules in recent years; the situation is changing. Check signs on site, ask at pubs, farms and visitor centres, and use park4night, Campercontact and information from Fáilte Ireland and Ireland’s tourism websites. Expect a warning or a request to move on, and in nature reserves (Burren, Connemara National Park) fines as well.
- You can stay legally and in comfort on campsites, on farms and in pubs that offer camper pitches. Rubbish, toilet waste and grey water must never go into the landscape; fires on bog and heath are prohibited.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Water supply and waste disposal are available on campsites and at a few public points (water and disposal points); in Ireland they are rarer than in Germany or France. Empty your chemical toilet and grey water only at designated stations, and ask campsites whether non-guests may also dispose of waste for a fee.
- Drinking water at campsites or water points in Ireland is generally drinkable; look out for signage. Top up with more water before you drive into sparsely populated areas on Achill or in Connemara.
- Gas: Irish bottles (Flogas, Calor) have different connections from German bottles; German exchange bottles are not exchanged. Camping Gaz cartridges are available in outdoor shops and supermarkets, and autogas (LPG) is less common in Ireland than in Germany. Arrive with enough gas or use refillable bottles.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Drive on the left, speeds in km/h: 50 km/h in built-up areas (often 30 km/h in residential areas), 80 km/h on regional roads, 100 km/h on national roads, 120 km/h on motorways; signs with a lower limit take precedence. With a caravan or trailer a maximum of 80 km/h applies (RSA). For vehicles over 3,500 kg gross weight, Citizens Information gives 90 km/h on motorways and 80 km/h on other roads (designated there for lorries); how motorhomes in this class are classified is not clearly documented – to be safe, do not drive faster. Motorhomes up to 3.5 t follow the car limits.
- Dimensions: We could not find binding maximum dimensions for motorhomes; many country roads, bridges and car parks on the route are narrow or low, and on single-track roads with passing places, vehicles over around 7 m quickly become a problem. Drive with a motorhome sat-nav and plan detours.
- Tolls: The M50 near Dublin has no barriers; the number plate is recorded electronically (eFlow), and without an account you pay online, by phone or at Payzone until 8 pm the following day, otherwise a surcharge is due. Tolls are also charged on a few other motorways and in the Limerick Tunnel; check amounts and rules with the operator in advance. There are only a few toll points on the route of this trip itself.
- Alcohol: limit 0.05 per cent (0.02 per cent for novice and professional drivers). Mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit. Winter tyres are not required; a high-visibility vest and warning triangle are recommended.
- Entry: Ireland is an EU member but not in the Schengen area – carry an ID card or passport. Keep the vehicle documents and proof of insurance to hand (carry a Green Card as a precaution; clarify this with your insurer in advance). Book ferries to Ireland (Cherbourg, Roscoff, Holyhead–Dublin) early and observe the shipping line’s gas bottle rules.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Motorhome sat-nav or maps with height and width information – on Irish back roads with stone walls and bridges, wrong turns are frequent and costly.
- Weatherproof clothing, wellies and waterproof trousers: rain and wind in Connemara and on Achill can change within minutes even in summer.
- Insect repellent and a head net for summer evenings (midges) at lakes and bogs.
- Levelling ramps and spacer plates for soft peat and gravel pitches.
- Refillable gas bottle or a Camping Gaz reserve plus hose and pressure regulator, as German bottles are not exchanged in Ireland.
- Printed booking confirmations for the Cliffs of Moher, ferries and campsites, as mobile reception in Connemara and on Achill is patchy.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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