In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Airolo via Bellinzona and Lake Maggiore, through the Verzasca and Maggia valleys to Lugano and Monte Generoso: around 400 kilometres of southern Switzerland between gneiss gorges, chestnut woods and lakeside promenades.
The spirit of the route
Beyond the Gotthard, everything changes at once: the air turns soft, the villages wear gneiss stone roofs, and in autumn the smell of leaves and woodsmoke rises from the chestnut woods. The south ramp leads you down through the Leventina to Bellinzona, where three castles stand above the valley plain, until the first palms appear on Lake Maggiore. Then come the valleys: the Verzasca valley with its green, crystal-clear water over bare rock, the Maggia valley with waterfalls and stone houses that look as if they had grown out of the hillside. In the evening you sit in front of the sliding door with a glass of Merlot in your hand and hear church bells ringing on both sides of the lake. In Lugano and on Monte Generoso you can taste polenta, luganighe and cappuccino, and the Alps shimmer at your back. This route lives on short stages, narrow valley roads and the calm of staying one day longer.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Airolo to Bellinzona (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- After the Gotthard Road Tunnel (around 17 km, two-way traffic in a single tube, 80 km/h, no overtaking), the Leventina begins at Airolo. You follow the main road or the A2 through the Piottino Gorge, past Faido, Giornico and Biasca and on across the Magadino plain to Bellinzona. The motorway is quick, while the old cantonal road through the villages is prettier but narrow in places. A good hour of pure driving time, better with two stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Giornico: the Romanesque church of San Nicolao da Myra from the 12th century, next to the granite thresholds of the Ticino, which can be walked on at low water.
- Biasca: the Santa Petronilla waterfalls, a short walk from the town centre.
- Bellinzona: Castelgrande, Castello di Montebello and Sasso Corbaro, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the three castles with the Murata town wall.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Area di sosta per camper Bellinzona near the town centre, designated as a motorhome pitch according to OpenStreetMap data; check facilities and fees in advance. Next to it is Camping Bellinzona on the edge of town. In the Leventina there are Camping Gottardo near Quinto and the Prato Leventina pitch, in case you want to stop before the plain.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Ticino, many municipalities frown on overnighting in a motorhome in public car parks. A single night to recover fitness to drive is tolerated here and there, but signs and municipal bans take precedence. In the Leventina and around the Gotthard there are also protected areas and wildlife quiet zones. If in doubt, ask the local police or the municipality.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Gotthard Road Tunnel jams up on holidays and fine weekends, with waiting times at the Göschenen and Airolo portals; travel on a weekday and early. For gas cylinders, the ASTRA dangerous-goods rules apply in the Gotthard Road Tunnel; cylinders of the vehicle’s fitted system for personal use are usually considered an exception (not confirmed, ask ASTRA if in doubt), and the valves stay closed. The old Tremola road over the pass is closed to vehicles over 3.5 t, and with its cobblestones and tight hairpins it is no pleasure even with smaller motorhomes; for motorhomes the tunnel is the better choice. In Bellinzona, Saturday morning is market day in the town centre.
2Stage 2: Bellinzona to Locarno and Tenero (Lake Maggiore) (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Bellinzona via Cadenazzo and the Piano di Magadino to the northern end of Lake Maggiore, then along the delta of the Ticino and Maggia to Locarno. A wide, mostly flat road with plenty of traffic at peak times, and some tight roundabouts in Locarno. Around 40 minutes, morning jams possible.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Madonna del Sasso above Locarno: a pilgrimage church from the 15th century, reached by funicular or on foot; views over the lakeshore and delta.
- The Ascona promenade with the lanes of the old town, easily reached by bike or bus from Locarno.
- Isole di Brissago: botanical island gardens in Lake Maggiore, reached by scheduled boat from Locarno or Ascona.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: On the north-eastern shore near Tenero, campsites cluster together with electricity, sanitary facilities and V/E (service point), among them Camping Campofelice, Camping Tamaro Resort, Lido Mappo and Rivabella, all with lake access; book early in high season. According to OSM data, the Locarno motorhome pitch is close to the town; check season and price on site.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping on Lake Maggiore is practically ruled out: shoreline zones, nature protection in the Maggia delta and municipal bans apply, and checks are made in summer. The large car parks in Locarno and Ascona are not meant for overnighting either.
- Insider tip for campers
- Participating campsites and accommodation in the canton offer free use of buses, trains and in some cases boats through the Ticino Ticket; ask at check-in whether the site takes part. The centre of Locarno is too narrow and too traffic-calmed for motorhomes; leave the camper at the site and take the bus or a bike.
3Stage 3: Tenero to Valle Verzasca and Gordevio (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- From Tenero/Gordola on the valley road into the Verzasca valley, past the 220 m high dam, along Lago di Vogorno, through Lavertezzo and Brione to Sonogno, then back and via Locarno into the Maggia valley as far as Gordevio. The Verzasca road is single-track in places, with passing places and rock cuttings; heavy vehicles and large motorhomes need patience. According to the Fondazione Verzasca (2026 information sheet for buses), vehicles over 12 m in length, 3.70 m in height or 2.55 m in width, as well as combinations with a trailer, need a special permit from the canton (up to 13 m, CHF 60, apply at least one week in advance); whether and how this applies to motorhomes, clarify in advance with the Fondazione Verzasca, as the information sheet names no specific camper limits. About 2.5 hours of pure driving time there and back.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Diga della Verzasca: the dam, known from the Bond film GoldenEye, with a bungee jumping platform.
- Lavertezzo with the Ponte dei Salti, the double-arched bridge over the emerald-green water; the granite basins invite a swim, but only in stable weather.
- Sonogno at the head of the valley, a stone village with a museum and a starting point for hikes; on the way back, Corippo and Frasco are worth a visit.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: TCS Camping Gordevio-Valle Maggia in the lower Maggia valley, quiet, with electricity, sanitary facilities and V/E. In the Verzasca valley itself the situation is tight for campers: according to Ticino Turismo, motorhomes may stay overnight only in Brione Verzasca (Gere) and Sonogno, with the Verzasca CAMPERCARD (CHF 24 for 24 hours, available at the info points in Tenero, at the dam and in Sonogno); reservations are not possible. Sonogno has 40 pitches with toilet, water and waste disposal (no water service in winter). The Gere site in Brione is open only until October 2026; after that, because of a new campsite being built (expected from summer 2027), the Capela Grande car park with around 50 pitches is planned. Check the current status before you travel.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Verzasca valley wild camping is unwelcome; the riverbanks and car parks are intended for day visitors. According to the Fondazione Verzasca, picnicking at the valley’s rest areas is prohibited, except in the leisure zone at Larici. Overnighting in a motorhome is intended only at the two designated sites in Brione and Sonogno, not in the day car parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Verzasca valley is overcrowded in summer; go on a weekday and before 9 am, and it is much more relaxed in the shoulder season. Car parks (Larici, Froda, Sonogno) charge fees; at Larici and Froda you pay digitally, in Sonogno also in cash or by card; in storms the water level can rise quickly, so keep away from the bank then. For 2026, roadworks between Gordola and Sonogno were announced from the end of April to September; ask the Centro Manutenzione Losone for the current status.
4Stage 4: Gordevio to Valle Maggia and Val Bavona, then Ponte Brolla (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- Up the Maggia valley via Maggia and Cevio to Bignasco, then into the Val Bavona to Foroglio and, if you like, as far as San Carlo. Comfortable as far as Bignasco; in the Val Bavona it is narrow, with short rock tunnels, passing places and tight bends. Back along the river to Ponte Brolla at the entrance to the Centovalli. Around 2 hours of driving time without stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Foroglio: the waterfall, about 100 m high, right beside the hamlet, visible from the car park, plus stone houses, grotti and cafés.
- Bignasco and Cevio: lanes with natural-stone houses, and in the main village of Cevio the Museo Valmaggia.
- Ponte Brolla: the rocky gorge of the Maggia, bathing spots and the start of the Centovalli road towards Italy.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Melezza near Ponte Brolla on the river, plus Camping Piccolo Paradiso and Camping Riposo in the lower Valle Maggia. All with electricity and sanitary facilities; opening times are seasonal, so ask in advance. The Bignasco pitch (around 30 places according to OSM) lies on the valley road.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Val Bavona, overnighting outside designated sites is prohibited, as the Fondazione Val Bavona protects the landscape; park only in marked areas. In the Maggia valley too, the riverbanks are in many places nature reserve or private land. Wild nights are not worth the fine.
- Insider tip for campers
- Large motorhomes are best left in Bignasco, taking the scheduled bus or a bike into the Val Bavona; the road beyond Foroglio to San Carlo is narrow and unsuitable for large or heavy vehicles; ask the municipality of Cevio or the Fondazione Val Bavona in advance about access and parking rules (including possible closures), as we have no confirmed limits. Fill up before the valley in Locarno or Cevio; beyond Bignasco there is nothing.
5Stage 5: Ponte Brolla to Lugano (Agno) (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- From Ponte Brolla back to Locarno and Bellinzona, then on the A2 through the Monte Ceneri Tunnel and on at the foot of Monte Brè into the Luganese. Motorway, well built, with traffic only slowing in the Lugano area. A good hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lugano: the Lungolago, Piazza della Riforma and the church of Santa Maria degli Angioli with Renaissance frescoes by Bernardino Luini.
- Monte San Salvatore and Monte Brè: funicular from Paradiso and Cassarate respectively, views over the lake and the Alps.
- Gandria: a lakeside village on the north shore, reached by boat or on foot along the Sentiero dell’Olivo.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: TCS Camping Lugano near Agno (Muzzano) with electricity, V/E, sanitary facilities and lake access; in Agno there are also Camping Molinazzo and Camping La Palma. The Area Camper Lugano on the edge of town is a motorhome pitch with service facilities according to OSM; check price and opening in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Lugano does not allow free camping: lakeside promenades and parks are taboo, and campers may only park in marked car parks during the day. The city carries out checks, and fines hit tourists too.
- Insider tip for campers
- From Agno, the regional railway Ferrovia Lugano–Ponte Tresa runs straight to the centre and saves the hunt for parking; multi-storey car parks in Lugano have height restrictions. The lake promenade and the old town are best explored on foot. If you want to travel by boat, use the scheduled boats of the Società Navigazione del Lago di Lugano.
6Stage 6: Lugano to Capolago (Monte Generoso) (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- From the southern shore of Lake Lugano via Paradiso and the narrow peninsula to Morcote, then back to Melide and across the causeway to Bissone, on to Maroggia and Capolago. The road to Morcote is narrow, winding and a bottleneck for large vehicles; the causeway at Melide is wide. About 1.5 hours with stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Morcote: stepped path to the church of Madonna del Sasso, Parco Scherrer with exotic plants and art.
- Melide: Swissminiatur, Switzerland at a scale of 1:25, with trains and cable cars.
- Monte Generoso: cog railway from Capolago to the summit, with Mario Botta’s “Fiore di Pietra” at the top; seasonal operation (in 2026, according to the operator, from 1 May to 9 November), check the timetable.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Paradiso Lago on the southern shore near Riva San Vitale (according to OSM with electricity and lake access, around 366 pitches); another site is named Monte Generoso, check its status in advance. There is no site at Morcote itself.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the Morcote peninsula parking is scarce and overnighting is prohibited; near Capolago too, the shore is taboo for campers. Observe the signs.
- Insider tip for campers
- Drive the Morcote road early in the morning; TPL buses have priority. In high summer and on fine weekends the cog railway up Monte Generoso can be full; check with the operator whether you can reserve. The causeway between Melide and Bissone carries the A2 and a parallel road, and when the motorway jams, the secondary route fills up quickly.
7Stage 7: Capolago to Mendrisiotto and Chiasso (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Capolago via Mendrisio to Meride on Monte San Giorgio, then back and south to Chiasso on the border with Como. Well-built roads, only the climb to Meride is winding. A good hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Monte San Giorgio: UNESCO Triassic fossil site, with the Museo dei fossili in Meride.
- Mendrisio: old town with the Good Friday procession ritual, Museo d’arte; the town centre is compact.
- Chiasso: border town with the m.a.x. museo cultural centre and a railway station as the gateway to Italy.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Monte San Giorgio in Meride (Via ala Caraa 2) with electric hook-up and waste-water drain, open from about 22 March to 1 November according to Ticino Turismo; alternatively go back to Capolago to Camping Paradiso Lago. On the Italian side the campsites lie on Lake Como, outside this route.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Mendrisiotto is densely populated; wild camping is practically impossible, and some municipalities expressly forbid it. Nature protection rules apply on Monte San Giorgio.
- Insider tip for campers
- If you are continuing to Italy: Como has a ZTL and low-emission zones, cameras enforce them, and fines arrive by post. Fuel is mostly cheaper in Italy than in Switzerland, but means queues at the border. Gas filling stations are rare in Switzerland; fill your cylinders beforehand.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In Switzerland, according to the TCS, wild camping is not generally forbidden, but each canton and municipality sets its own rules. It is prohibited without exception in nature reserves, federal game reserves, wildlife quiet zones and the National Park; on private land you need the owner’s permission.
- In Ticino the practical rule is: parking is allowed where parking is allowed, camper behaviour (chairs, table, awning, grey water) is not. Many municipalities on lakes and in the valleys expressly forbid overnighting in car parks; fines vary from municipality to municipality. One night to recover fitness to drive is occasionally tolerated, but there is no right to it.
- You can overnight legally at campsites and motorhome pitches (area di sosta camper). Helpful sources: TCS Camping, camping.ch, park4night, Campercontact and the pitch guide; the details there are user reports, so check the status on site.
- Dogs: a pet passport and a valid rabies vaccination are mandatory; in nature reserves and wildlife quiet zones a lead is often required.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service points are called “Ver-/Entsorgungsstation” or “stazione di scarico”; campsites often allow only guests at the station, and some pitches require tokens or cards.
- Empty the chemical toilet (cassette) only at designated stations, and never pour grey water onto roads or into drains; fines and eviction are possible.
- Tap water is drinkable everywhere in Switzerland; fountains marked “acqua non potabile” are not.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders cannot be swapped in Switzerland; Swiss cylinders (e.g. from PanGas or Migrol) have different connections. LPG filling stations are rare; arrive with two full cylinders or a tank, and ideally bring a Euro adapter.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Vignette: the Swiss vignette applies to motorways and expressways for vehicles up to 3.5 t; it costs CHF 40 and is valid for 14 months (from 1 December of the previous year to 31 January of the following year); only the annual vignette exists. There is a sticker and an e-vignette. Trailers need their own vignette. Without a vignette you face a CHF 200 fine plus buying one afterwards. Vehicles over 3.5 t pay the heavy vehicle charge (PSVA/LSVA); ask the Federal Office for Customs and Border Security, and clarify in good time beforehand.
- Dimensions: maximum 4.00 m height and 2.55 m width; length 12 m for a single vehicle, 18.75 m for combinations. The Verzasca valley requires a special permit from 12 m length, 3.70 m height, 2.55 m width or with a trailer (according to the Fondazione Verzasca; clarify in advance for motorhomes).
- Speed limits: motorway 120 km/h, country road 80 km/h, built-up area 50 km/h; vehicles over 3.5 t on the motorway 100 km/h; combinations 80 km/h on motorway and country road. Dipped headlights in daytime are mandatory.
- Alcohol limit 0.5 per mille; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit. The Gotthard Road Tunnel has an 80 km/h limit, no overtaking and a safe-distance requirement, and traffic lights regulate entry.
- Winter equipment is not generally required, but on many pass roads snow chains are compulsory where signed; if you drive over the Gotthard or San Bernardino in autumn, carry winter tyres and chains. The Tremola can only be driven in the summer half-year (in 2026, according to alpen-paesse.ch, planned until about 7 November, end of season depending on snow), and the pass roads close in October to November depending on snow.
- Border crossing to Italy at Chiasso/Como: carry ID, customs and spot checks are possible; in Italy different speed limits apply (90 km/h outside built-up areas) and ZTL zones.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Level 2 levelling ramps: pitches and campsites on slopes, such as in the Maggia valley, are often sloping.
- Get the Swiss vignette (sticker or e-vignette) before entering the country, so that there is no delay at the border.
- Two full gas cylinders and a Euro adapter: swapping or refilling is hardly possible in Switzerland.
- Water shoes with grip for the slippery granite slabs in the Verzasca valley.
- Rain jacket and power bank: thunderstorms in Ticino come quickly and fiercely, and water levels in the valleys rise within minutes.
- Small change in CHF for parking meters and showers; not all machines accept cards or euros.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
