In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
Around 405 km from the lakeshore at Arona via Stresa and Cannobio to Domodossola, up to the Toce waterfall in the Val Formazza, through the Val Vigezzo and via Omegna to Lake Orta – lake views, alpine meadows and an island you can reach only by boat.
The spirit of the route
Lake Maggiore is the very image of a northern Italian lake: palms and camellias on the shore, with the snow-covered peaks of Monte Rosa behind. When you open the sliding door in the morning, you see mist over the water from which the Borromean Islands emerge. Further north the landscape becomes rougher: the Ossola leads into gorges, terraced slopes and Walser villages with dark timber houses, and in the Val Formazza the Toce plunges 143 metres. The Val Vigezzo, the “valley of the painters”, is red-gold and quiet in autumn. At the end waits Lake Orta, smaller, quieter and more intimate than its big neighbour, with the Isola San Giulio in view. The route rewards anyone who sets off early in the morning, leaves time in the evening and chooses the narrow side valleys with care.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Arona to Stresa (approx. 20 km)
- The drive
- On the SS33 del Sempione and the lakeside road on the west shore of Lake Maggiore from Arona via Meina, Lesa and Belgirate to Stresa. The road is wide but full of commuters and day-trippers; around 30 minutes without traffic, in summer easily double.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Arona: statue of San Carlone with a view over the lake and the Rocca di Angera on the opposite shore.
- Stresa with the promenade, the grand hotels and boats to the Borromean Islands (Isola Bella, Isola Madre, Isola dei Pescatori).
- Mottarone from Stresa by cable car (panorama over seven lakes and the Alps) and the Alpinia garden.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Pitches in Stresa (check status and fee in advance) and several campsites in Baveno, Feriolo and Fondotoce, such as Conca d’Oro in Feriolo and Continental Camping Village near Fondotoce. More sites can be found near Arona and in Lesa (Camping Solcio); book early in high season.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Along the lakeshore, car parks with motorhome bans and time limits are common; overnighting on lakeside car parks is practically impossible. Municipalities carry out checks, especially at weekends.
- Insider tip for campers
- The ferries to the Borromean Islands leave Stresa at regular intervals; tickets are available at the landing stage. The Mottarone private road is a toll road, and the descent is steep – the cable car is the better choice for motorhomes. Check the cable car’s operating times before you go.
2Stage 2: Stresa to Cannobio (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- On the SS33 and SS34 along the west shore northwards via Baveno, Verbania (Pallanza and Intra) and Cannero Riviera to Cannobio. The road is narrow and winding, with stop-and-go traffic in Intra and Cannero; motorhomes wider than 2.3 m need patience. Around 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Villa Taranto in Pallanza: botanical garden with dahlias, tulips and water features (admission).
- Cannero Riviera with the Malpaga castle ruins on two rocky islets in the lake.
- Orrido di Sant’Anna near Cannobio: gorge with a waterfall, reached by a short path.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Cannobio there are several campsites right on the water, such as Camping Residence Campagna, Camping Riviera and Camping del Sole; also the Area Camper Cannobio. Electricity, sanitary facilities and service points (V/E) are the norm; the season runs roughly from April to October. In July and August book very early.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the village and on the lakeside road, overnighting outside campsites is not possible: pay-and-display machines, time limits and ban signs dominate. Fines are possible during checks.
- Insider tip for campers
- On Sundays there is a market in Cannobio, and traffic is then especially heavy. The village centre is narrow, and the lungolago car parks are often limited for motorhomes. Arriving early and parking on the edge of the village avoids stress.
3Stage 3: Cannobio to Domodossola (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- Back along the lake via Verbania to Fondotoce, then on the SS33 through the Ossola plain via Gravellona Toce, Ornavasso and Premosello-Chiovenda to Domodossola. The route is well built; alternatives such as the Val Cannobina (SP75) are narrow and only conditionally suitable for motorhomes. About 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Val Grande National Park near Fondotoce and Cicogna: one of the largest wilderness areas in the Alps, with hiking trails from Cicogna or Rovegro.
- Domodossola: medieval old town with Piazza Mercato and the Sacro Monte Calvario (UNESCO).
- Ponte del Diavolo near Crevola in the Divedro valley.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Motorhome pitches near Domodossola and in Premosello-Chiovenda, small campsites in the plain; more options in Ornavasso. Electricity and service points (V/E) are available, mostly open only in summer. Check the current status in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Domodossola a ZTL applies in the old town; car parks at the station are limited. Free overnighting on car parks by the river is rarely tolerated, but not regulated – better to stay on a site.
- Insider tip for campers
- From Domodossola the Vigezzina-Centovalli railway runs to Locarno (Switzerland); a day trip is worthwhile, and the motorhome stays put. Check timetables and border documents (identity card or passport).
4Stage 4: Domodossola to Riale (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- On the SS659 through the Val d’Ossola northwards via Crodo, Baceno and Premia, then into the Val Formazza via Foppiano and Fondovalle to Riale. The road climbs from the valley floor to around 1,700 m; it is mostly well built, narrow in the villages. About 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Orrido di Uriezzo near Baceno: gorge with walkways and a waterfall.
- Cascata del Toce near Formazza (Frua): one of the highest waterfalls in the Alps, with a drop of 143 m; the water is used to generate electricity, and the falls are released only in summer at fixed times (2026: 15 June to 27 September).
- Riale: Walser high valley with a dam, hiking trails to the Lago Toggia and the Rifugio Città di Busto.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In the Val Formazza there are pitches, such as the Area Camper Punta Sabbioni near Brendo and the Camper-Stopp Riale below the Lago Morasco dam (around 100 places, basic, electricity charged). The season is short; check opening in advance and ask about space and length on arrival.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Val Formazza local bans apply on car parks at reservoirs and at hiking car parks; in high season they are checked. Overnighting is most likely tolerated on designated pitches.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Cascata del Toce is released only in summer (until 27 September in 2026); check times in advance. The road to Riale is at risk of snow in winter. Fill up in Domodossola.
5Stage 5: Riale to Santa Maria Maggiore (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- Back down the valley to Domodossola, then on the SS337 della Val Vigezzo via Trontano, Malesco and Santa Maria Maggiore. The road climbs in bends through chestnut woods and is narrow; motorhomes over 3 m high should check the tunnels. Around 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Santa Maria Maggiore: village of the chimney sweeps with a museum, mountain panorama and hiking areas.
- Re with the pilgrimage church Santuario della Madonna del Sangue.
- Alpe Devero (access from Baceno in the Val Antigorio, not from the Val Vigezzo): car-free high plateau with hikes in the Veglia-Devero nature park.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Santa Maria Maggiore and Malesco there are small campsites and pitches with electricity and service points (V/E); facilities vary. Check the current status and season in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The municipalities in the Val Vigezzo generally prohibit overnighting outside sites; in the nature park separate rules apply. Tolerated places are rare.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Vigezzina railway runs parallel to the road; a day trip to Locarno is possible. The Alpe Devero plateau is closed to private traffic; the narrow mountain road from Baceno ends at a car park. Check the current rules in advance.
6Stage 6: Santa Maria Maggiore to Orta San Giulio (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- Back through the Val Vigezzo to Domodossola, then on the SS33 and SS229 via Gravellona Toce and Omegna at the northern end of Lake Orta to the east shore at Orta San Giulio. The lakeside road is narrow and winding, and in Orta there are only a few car parks. Around 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Orta San Giulio: car-free old town, Isola San Giulio (by boat) and Sacro Monte di Orta (UNESCO).
- Omegna with the lakeside promenade and the Forum Museum.
- Madonna del Sasso near Boleto: pilgrimage church on a rocky outcrop above the west shore of the lake.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Cusio is in Orta San Giulio (around 200 m from the lake), Camping Royal near Pettenasco on the east shore; also pitches near Orta (check status). Sites are small; in season book early.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Lake Orta, camper overnighting outside sites is not possible; Orta is shielded from traffic, and access to the village may be closed. Municipalities carry out checks.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Orta do not drive into the village; the car park at the entrance to the village is often tight for motorhomes. The boats to the Isola San Giulio run regularly, with tickets at the landing stage. If you have time, walk the “Via della Meditazione” path.
7Stage 7: Orta San Giulio to Arona (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Orta via Gozzano and Borgomanero on the SS229 and provincial roads to Arona. The route is flat and well built; traffic jams are possible at weekends. Around 1 hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Borgomanero with old town and gastronomy.
- Arona: old town, lakeside promenade and a view of the Rocca di Angera.
- Angera with the Rocca Borromeo and the doll museum, reached by boat or by car around the southern tip of the lake.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Solcio in Lesa and more campsites on the south-west shore near Meina and Dormelletto; check facilities and opening in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Arona, car parks by the water have time limits, and motorhomes often may not stay overnight. Ask the municipality in advance.
- Insider tip for campers
- Passenger boats run between Arona and Angera; the motorhome stays on the shore. Fill up and shop in Arona before the journey home via the A26.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law (Codice della Strada, Art. 185) distinguishes parking from camping: a motorhome may stand and be slept in wherever parking is allowed, as long as it touches the ground only with its wheels. Chairs, tables, awnings, levelling supports and drained grey water are prohibited.
- At the lakes (Maggiore, Orta) almost all municipalities have ordinances against overnighting in a motorhome on car parks and on the lakeside road; checks are frequent, and fines start in the three-figure range.
- In Val Grande National Park, in the Veglia-Devero nature park and in the Walser valleys separate rules apply: camping and free overnighting are not permitted, and car parks are managed with fees.
- Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact and CamperOnline. The tourist offices of Stresa, Cannobio and Domodossola provide up-to-date lists of pitches.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Fresh water and waste disposal are called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. Apart from campsites, you will find stations near Stresa, Domodossola and Orta.
- Empty grey water and the toilet cassette only at disposal stations; violations lead to bans at the lakes.
- Tap water is drinkable in the villages; on alpine pastures it is better to fill up from bottles.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Italy. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at GPL filling stations with an Italian adapter; Verbania and Domodossola have several.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on the motorway; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on the motorway. Vehicles towing a caravan: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on the motorway. Dipped headlights are required outside built-up areas even during the day.
- ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) with camera monitoring exist in Stresa, Verbania, Domodossola and Orta San Giulio (pedestrian zone); fines arrive by post.
- Tolls: the A26 Genova–Gravellona Toce is a toll road, as is the A8/A26 towards Milan. The lake roads and the SS33 are free; the Mottarone private road charges a toll.
- Winter equipment: from 15 November to 15 April, winter tyres or chains are compulsory on mountain routes such as the Val Formazza; passes such as the Simplon have their own rules.
- If a load protrudes beyond the rear, for example bicycles on a rear rack, the red-and-white warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is compulsory. Alcohol limit 0.5, for new drivers and professional drivers 0.0; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Hiking shoes with a good tread for the Orrido walkways, Walser paths and the trails in the Val Formazza.
- Rain jacket and fleece: on Lake Maggiore the weather often changes within hours.
- Passport or identity card for day trips to Locarno (Vigezzina-Centovalli railway).
- Levelling ramps, level 2–3, for sloping campsite pitches on the hillside.
- Binoculars for waterfowl on Lake Orta and alpine wildlife in the Val Formazza.
- Red-and-white warning panel to the Italian standard for rear racks or protruding boxes.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
