In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 355 km in the heart of Italy: from Rieti into the Holy Valley to Greccio, up Monte Terminillo, to the Marmore waterfall, to Lago del Salto and Lago del Turano and through the olive hills of the Sabina to Farfa – a circuit for calm, mountain air and quiet villages.
The spirit of the route
Rieti lies where Italy places itself exactly in the middle, and yet it feels like a place the tourists forgot to visit. The river Velino flows through the plain, poplars stand along the canals, to the west lie the Franciscan monasteries of the Holy Valley, and to the east Terminillo rises to almost 2,200 metres. From the sliding door you see haze over the lakes of Salto and Turano in the morning, olive trees to the horizon at midday, and in the evening villages clinging to rocks in golden light. The roads are winding, the lakes are full of water and still, and the water of the Velino plunges 165 metres into the depths at Marmore. The Sabina is olive country with monks, shepherds and innkeepers who still cook without hurry.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Rieti to Poggio Bustone (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Rieti into the Holy Valley (Valle Santa): first towards Greccio on provincial roads through the plain, then east via Contigliano and Cantalice to Poggio Bustone. The roads are well built and flat, only the approaches to the sanctuaries are narrow and steep. About 1 hour of pure driving time, half a day with sightseeing.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Rieti: Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, cathedral, bishop's palace and the underground tour “Rieti Sotterranea”.
- Greccio with the Franciscan monastery in the rocks, where Francis is said to have set up the first Christmas crib in 1223.
- Poggio Bustone with the sanctuary, the “Sacro Speco” and the view over the Rieti valley.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In and near Rieti there are pitches for motorhomes; check location, facilities and fees beforehand. The approaches to the sanctuaries in the Holy Valley are tight for large motorhomes, so it is better to use a pitch in Rieti as a base and continue by bike or taxi.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Rieti and in the Holy Valley, parking applies with a camping ban; overnighting in the sanctuary car parks is not permitted. If in doubt, ask the municipality.
- Insider tip for campers
- Rieti calls itself the centre of Italy, and the “Centro d’Italia” is marked by a stone. The centre is a ZTL with cameras; motorhomes park at the pitch or in car parks outside. The sanctuaries have fixed visiting times and dress rules (shoulders and knees covered).
2Stage 2: Poggio Bustone to Monte Terminillo (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- Back towards Rieti and via Pian de’ Valli and provincial roads up the mountain to the Campo Foro/Campoforogna plateau. The road is well built but with many hairpins and often snow-covered in winter; about 1 hour. Heavily used at weekends and in winter.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Monte Terminillo, the “Montagna di Roma”, at about 2,200 m in the Monti Reatini range.
- Hikes from Campoforogna to the Pian de’ Valli plateau and summit paths.
- View from the mountain over the Rieti basin and, in clear weather, as far as the Apennines.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: On Terminillo a pitch (Area Sosta Camper Terminillo) is listed; check facilities, season and fees beforehand. In the surrounding area there are individual camping options. In winter many sites are open for skiers, in summer it is rather quiet.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the protected areas, a camping ban applies outside designated sites; car parks at the lifts are meant for skiers in winter. In summer, observe fire protection.
- Insider tip for campers
- In winter, snow chains or winter tyres may be required on Terminillo; check access restrictions beforehand. For hikes start early, as in summer thunderstorms often build up in the afternoon. Spending the night on the mountain in a motorhome is rough in wind and cold, so check heating and water.
3Stage 3: Monte Terminillo to Cascata delle Marmore (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- From Terminillo down to Rieti, then on the SS79 north-west into the Velino valley and on towards Terni to the waterfall at Marmore. The roads are well built; about 1.5 hours. The approach to the waterfall lies in Umbria, shortly before Terni.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Cascata delle Marmore: one of the highest waterfalls in Europe, built by the Romans in 271 BC, with a total height of about 165 m in three tiers.
- Lago di Piediluco a few kilometres above the waterfall, with rowing clubs and lakeside paths.
- Hiking trails along the Nera gorge and viewpoints at the waterfall.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: At Marmore there is the Campeggio Cascata delle Marmore; at Lago di Piediluco there is also Camping Lago di Piediluco. Both usually have electricity and sanitary facilities; season mostly spring to autumn, check opening beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Umbria, parking applies with a camping ban; at the waterfall and at the lake, overnighting in car parks is forbidden. In season it is checked.
- Insider tip for campers
- The water of the waterfall is only released at fixed times, which change depending on the season and day of the week; check times, entrance fee and access beforehand on the official website. At weekends the waterfall is crowded; early in the morning or late afternoon it is emptier. Take a rain jacket and sturdy footwear, as the paths are wet.
4Stage 4: Cascata delle Marmore to Lago del Salto (Petrella Salto) (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- Back into the Velino valley as far as Rieti, then via Cittaducale and the SS578 Salto Cicolana into the Lago del Salto area. The route is well built as far as Cittaducale, then winding and partly narrow; about 2 hours. The roads at the lake are narrow and have many hairpins.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lago del Salto: reservoir with bays and lakeside villages such as Petrella Salto, Borgo San Pietro and Fiumata, with the Montagne della Duchessa nature reserve nearby.
- Cittaducale, a planned town from the 14th century on the edge of the Rieti basin.
- Hiking and cycling paths on the lake shore and viewpoints over the water.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: At Lago del Salto there are a few small aree di sosta and agriturismi, including in the surroundings of Fiumata. Check facilities and opening beforehand; in summer the lake is lively, in spring and autumn quiet.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At Lago del Salto, camping and overnighting on the shore are generally forbidden, and nature-protection and municipal ordinances apply. Quiet car parks without a prohibition sign are sometimes tolerated for overnighting without camping behaviour.
- Insider tip for campers
- The water levels of the reservoir fluctuate strongly; shore areas can be far from the water in summer. Swimming and boating are regulated depending on the municipality. Fill up and shop beforehand in Rieti or Cittaducale, as at the lake there are only small shops.
5Stage 5: Lago del Salto to Castel di Tora (Lago del Turano) (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Lago del Salto on provincial roads and mountain lanes to the neighbouring lake, Lago del Turano. The route is narrow, winding and passes through villages with tight sections; about 1 hour. Demanding for large motorhomes; use a sat nav with vehicle dimensions.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Castel di Tora: medieval village on a peninsula in Lago del Turano, counted among the “most beautiful villages of Italy”.
- Lago del Turano with bays, sailing boats and circular paths on the shore.
- Rocca Sinibalda with a castle above the lake.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In the surroundings of Lago del Turano there are a few small aree di sosta; check existence, facilities, fees and opening beforehand. Agriturismi also take motorhomes – state the vehicle length.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At Lago del Turano, parking applies with a camping ban; in summer car parks at the lake are tight and are checked. If in doubt, ask the municipality.
- Insider tip for campers
- The old town of Castel di Tora is largely closed to vehicles; park on the edge of the village. In summer festivals take place, and the car parks fill up. The roads at the Turano have guard rails but few passing places, so expect oncoming traffic.
6Stage 6: Castel di Tora to Farfa (Sabina) (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- From Lago del Turano on provincial roads through olive groves and oak forests down into the Sabina to Fara in Sabina and the abbey of Farfa. Easy to drive, but winding; about 1.5 hours. In the villages of the Sabina the lanes are narrow, and the approaches to the hill villages are unsuitable for large motorhomes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Farfa Abbey: Benedictine monastery from the 6th and 7th centuries, in the Middle Ages one of the most powerful monasteries in Italy.
- Casperia, a hill village of the Sabina with an old town and viewpoints.
- The olive groves of the Sabina, from which the protected-origin oil “Sabina DOP” comes.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In the Sabina there are small aree di sosta and agriturismi, some with an oil mill and farm shop; check the current status in park4night and Campercontact. Clarify facilities, season and vehicle length beforehand, as some businesses only accept reservations.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the nature parks of the Sabina, such as the Monti Lucretili regional park, camping outside designated sites is forbidden. Parking with a camping ban applies in the villages; on private fields only with permission.
- Insider tip for campers
- The olive harvest in the Sabina takes place in autumn; many mills sell fresh oil directly. A visit to Farfa Abbey has fixed opening times and a dress code; check times beforehand. Buy oil and honey from the producers, not at the roadside stalls.
7Stage 7: Farfa to Rieti (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- From Farfa on the Via Salaria (SS4) north back to Rieti, with a view of the olive hills of the Sabina. Well built, heavily used, with lorry traffic in summer; about 1 hour. The return includes the Rieti exit and the pitch.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Laghi Lungo and Ripasottile: nature reserve near Rieti with waterbirds and observation points.
- Contigliano and Greccio as quiet stops on the edge of the plain.
- Rieti in the evening: Lungovelino, Ponte Romano and Piazza Cavour.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Back in Rieti, the town's pitches are available again; check facilities and fees beforehand. Alternatively, stay overnight at an agriturismo in the plain.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Rieti, overnighting outside designated sites is not usual; in the nature reserve camping is forbidden. If in doubt, ask the municipality.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Laghi Lungo and Ripasottile nature reserve offers observation points and circular paths; check access rules beforehand. In Rieti you can get water, food and gas for the journey home. From Rieti the A24 or the SS4 continues to Rome or to the Adriatic respectively.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law (Codice della Strada) distinguishes parking (“sosta”) from camping (“campeggio”): a motorhome may stand where parking is permitted, provided it only stands on its wheels. Chairs, tables, awning, support legs and draining grey water count as camping and are forbidden.
- In the Rieti basin, at the lakes and in the mountains, municipal ordinances and protected-area rules apply: protected areas of the Monti Reatini (Terminillo), the Montagne della Duchessa nature reserve, the Riserva Laghi Lungo e Ripasottile and the Parco Monti Lucretili. Fines and towing are possible.
- In the wildfire season (summer, check the regional ordinance) open fires are forbidden in forests and macchia; grills and gas stoves outdoors are also risky.
- Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact and CamperOnline (Italian). Aree di sosta around Rieti are thin on the ground and often only open from spring to autumn – call beforehand.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Filling and emptying is called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. In Rieti there is a service point; at the lakes and on Terminillo only at individual sites.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at the service point; wild dumping is a main reason for bans.
- Tap water is mostly drinkable; fountains in the villages often provide good spring water, look out for “acqua potabile”.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Italy. You fill refillable cylinders and gas tanks at LPG filling stations with the Italian adapter; in the mountains they are rare. Arrive with two full cylinders.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on the motorway; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas, 100 km/h on the motorway. Car-and-caravan combinations: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on the motorway. Dipped headlights are required outside built-up areas even in daytime.
- ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) with camera monitoring exists in Rieti and in the centres of the hill villages; the fines arrive by post, often months later. Use pitches and car parks outside the zone.
- Tolls: the A24 and A1 are tolled; the state roads SS4 Salaria and SS79 are toll-free. Pay tolls by Telepass or at the booth.
- Winter equipment: from 15 November to 15 April, winter equipment or snow chains may be required on Terminillo and on mountain routes; observe the signs. Access restrictions on Terminillo are possible in snow.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, for example bicycles on a rear rack, the red-and-white warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is mandatory. Blood alcohol limit 0.5, 0.0 for novice and professional drivers; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Snow chains or textile chains for Terminillo, often mandatory from late autumn to spring.
- Hiking boots and rain jacket for the paths at the Marmore waterfall and the summit paths on Terminillo.
- Binoculars for the waterbirds in the Lungo and Ripasottile reserves and at the lakes.
- Bicycle or folding bike for the approaches to the sanctuaries in the Holy Valley, where large motorhomes cannot get through.
- Cool box for olive oil, cheese and honey from the Sabina, direct from the producer.
- Italian gas adapter for LPG filling stations, plus two full cylinders on arrival.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
