In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 335 km through the green heart of Italy: from L’Aquila onto the Campo Imperatore plateau beneath the Gran Sasso, to the castle of Rocca Calascio, to Sulmona and Scanno and over the passes of the Majella – mountain roads, national parks and a region that is home to the wolf and the Marsican brown bear.
The spirit of the route
The Abruzzo is the wildest part of Italy south of the Alps. Beyond L’Aquila the road climbs to a high plain known as “Little Tibet”: Campo Imperatore, a sea of grass beneath the Corno Grande, where sheep graze in spring and thunderclouds hang in summer. Further east the castle of Rocca Calascio sits enthroned on a cone, and has served as a film set. Then the route leads to Sulmona, home of sugared almonds and of the poet Ovid, to Scanno with its heart-shaped lake and over the passes of the Majella, the “Mother Mountain”, to the slopes near Blockhaus. From the sliding door you see mountains in the morning light that carry snow until the end of May, and in the evening villages of pale limestone. Anyone travelling here hears sheep bells instead of engine noise.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: L’Aquila to Campo Imperatore (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- From L’Aquila towards Assergi and Fonte Cerreto at the foot of the Gran Sasso, then on the high road to Campo Imperatore. Steep hairpin bends, a height difference of over 1000 metres; in winter and in snow the high road and passes are closed or chains are compulsory. About 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- L’Aquila: old town with Piazza Duomo, the Basilica di Collemaggio and the rebuilt centre after the earthquake of 2009.
- Campo Imperatore: a high plateau at about 1800 metres with a view of the Corno Grande, the highest peak of the Apennines.
- The Giardino Botanico alpino di Campo Imperatore and the hiking trails to the Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: At the foot of the Gran Sasso, near L’Aquila and near Castel del Monte, map portals list a few pitches and campsites; clarify whether they exist, their facilities and season beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Campo Imperatore and in the Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga National Park, tenting and camping outside designated sites is prohibited; overnighting with a motorhome in the car parks is also monitored. Wolves and bears live in the park – do not leave food outside.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Funivia del Gran Sasso from Fonte Cerreto to Campo Imperatore was closed in spring/summer 2025 because the haul ropes were being renewed; check the operating status on the operators’ website before your trip. In summer the high road is heavily used by cyclists and motorcyclists. Fill up with fuel down in Assergi or L’Aquila.
2Stage 2: Campo Imperatore to Calascio (Rocca Calascio) (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From the plateau down to Castel del Monte and on to Santo Stefano di Sessanio and Calascio. Narrow, winding roads, partly without guard rails, risk of fog in autumn. About an hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Rocca Calascio: castle and ruin at 1460 metres, the setting for several films; the climb takes about a quarter to half an hour.
- Santo Stefano di Sessanio: a medieval borgo with the Medici tower (collapsed in the 2009 earthquake) and a view across the high plain.
- Castel del Monte: a village with an old shepherding tradition and pecorino.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Santo Stefano di Sessanio and near Calascio, parking areas for campers and buses are listed according to map portals. Clarify prices, servicing and whether overnighting is allowed beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Rocca Calascio and in the national park wild camping is not allowed; overnighting in the castle car parks is also monitored in high season.
- Insider tip for campers
- The access to Rocca Calascio runs along a narrow road to a small car park; parking areas are limited, and in high season access may be regulated – check the current state with the municipality or the national park authority beforehand. For larger motorhomes, the car park in the village followed by a walk is better.
3Stage 3: Calascio to Sulmona (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- Via Navelli and Capestrano into the Tirino valley, then on the SS17 and the SS5 Via Tiburtina Valeria through the Valle Peligna to Sulmona. Well-built roads in the valley, with winding upland roads before. About 1 hour 15 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Navelli: a village with saffron growing, the “Zafferano dell’Aquila”.
- Capestrano: Castello Piccolomini; the famous Warrior of Capestrano was found here (the original is in the National Archaeological Museum in Chieti).
- Sulmona: Piazza Garibaldi with the aqueduct, Corso Ovidio and the sugared almonds (“confetti”).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In and around Sulmona there are aree di sosta and campsites; check details in the apps beforehand. Near Pacentro a pitch is listed according to map portals.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Sulmona wild camping is not permitted; the old town has a ZTL and paid parking management. In the Peligna valley individual municipalities tolerate quiet parking – only where no ban is signed.
- Insider tip for campers
- Sugared-almond shops and producers on the Via Pacentrana invite a visit. Sulmona lies in a basin and is hot in summer; plan your sightseeing in the city for the morning.
4Stage 4: Sulmona to Scanno (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- On the SR 479 Sannita through the Gole del Sagittario to Scanno. A narrow gorge, very narrow passages, a single-lane tunnel (Galleria Foce Giardino) and bends; motorhomes drive here with caution, and in winter the route may be closed. About an hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gole del Sagittario: a gorge with limestone walls that squeeze the road.
- Lago di Scanno: the heart-shaped lake, view from the “Lago a forma di cuore” viewpoint (Punto panoramico).
- Scanno: a village with goldsmithing and the tradition of women in black costume.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Scanno a camper area is listed according to map portals; check status, facilities and season beforehand. In the Villalago, Scanno and Barrea area there are aree di sosta and campsites.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise National Park (PNALM) camping outside designated sites is prohibited; bears and wolves are native here. If you park, leave no rubbish outside.
- Insider tip for campers
- The SR 479 through the Gole del Sagittario is narrow, and with oncoming traffic you will have to manoeuvre; set off early. Scanno has narrow alleys – park on the edge of the village. Fill up with fuel in Sulmona.
5Stage 5: Scanno to Pacentro (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- Back through the Gole del Sagittario to Sulmona and on to Pacentro. First the same gorge as on the way out, then a valley road. About 1 hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pacentro: a village with the Castello Caldora and three towers, on the edge of the Majella.
- The sanctuary of Ercole Curino near Sulmona, a temple on the slope of Monte Morrone.
- The Parco Nazionale della Majella: hiking trails from the village.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Pacentro a pitch and campsites in the surrounding area are listed according to map portals; clarify facilities and season beforehand. In the Pacentro and Campo di Giove area there are agriturismi.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Majella National Park camping outside designated sites is prohibited; hiking car parks are not places to stay overnight.
- Insider tip for campers
- Pacentro is a village on a hill, and the alleys are narrow; park below. The road towards the Passo San Leonardo climbs steadily – change down.
6Stage 6: Pacentro to Caramanico Terme (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Pacentro along the road to the Passo San Leonardo (with a view of the Valle Peligna) and down to Caramanico Terme. Bends, hardly any traffic, well surfaced. About 1 hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Passo San Leonardo: a pass on the Majella with a wide view.
- Caramanico Terme: a spa town with an old town and the gorges of the Orfento.
- Riserva Naturale Orfento: a hiking trail through the Orfento gorge.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Caramanico Terme several agricampeggi and campsites are listed according to map portals; check whether they exist, their facilities and season beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the nature reserves around Caramanico (Orfento, Majella) camping outside the sites is not allowed; the park wardens patrol the hiking car parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Caramanico thermal baths open at set times; check the current state beforehand. The Orfento gorge is at times closed or can be walked only with prior registration; observe the reserve’s rules.
7Stage 7: Caramanico Terme to Passo Lanciano (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- Via Pretoro up to the Passo Lanciano at about 1300 metres, a starting point for hikes and ski trails at Blockhaus. Steep hairpin bends; the pass is closed in winter and used by cyclists in summer. About an hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Passo Lanciano: a pass with a view of the Majella and the sea; a ski area in winter.
- Blockhaus: a summit known as a stage finish of the Giro d’Italia.
- Pretoro: a mountain village on the way, with pecorino and mushrooms.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: At the Passo Lanciano there are mountain huts and car parks; overnighting for motorhomes is restricted in the national park. On the Pretoro side agriturismi offer pitches. Clarify facilities beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Majella National Park overnighting in pass car parks is not permitted; on peak days access may be regulated; check the current state beforehand.
- Insider tip for campers
- The road to the Passo Lanciano is closed in winter; check beforehand when it opens in spring (municipality/province). The weather changes quickly, and at 1300 metres nights can be chilly even in summer.
8Stage 8: Passo Lanciano to Fara San Martino (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From the Passo Lanciano down into the valley and along roads at the foot of the Majella to Fara San Martino. Bends and descents, about an hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Fara San Martino: a village at the foot of the Majella with the Gole di San Martino, a gorge and hiking trails.
- Abbazia di San Martino in Valle: a monastery in the gorge, a ruin with a chapel.
- Fara San Martino is known for its pasta making.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Fara San Martino and Lama dei Peligni campsites are listed according to map portals; check whether they exist, their facilities and season beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the park and around the gorge camping is prohibited; car parks at the entrance to the Gole di San Martino are for hikers.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fara San Martino is a starting point for hikes in the Majella; the park authority’s rules may apply to individual trails; find out beforehand. Pasta from Fara is a typical souvenir.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law (Codice della Strada, Art. 185) distinguishes parking (“sosta”) from camping (“campeggio”): a motorhome may stand and stay overnight wherever parking is allowed, as long as only its wheels touch the ground. Chairs, tables, awnings, levelling legs, wedges and draining grey water are not allowed, and many municipalities also ban overnight stays by local ordinance.
- The national parks Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga, Majella and Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise prohibit tenting and camping outside designated sites; the park wardens patrol. Around the villages municipalities impose additional bans.
- Wolves and Marsican brown bears are native to the Abruzzo: do not leave food outside the vehicle, dispose of rubbish properly, keep your distance.
- Useful apps: park4night, CamperOnline (Italian, with up-to-date user reports) and Campercontact; check the current status in advance.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Servicing is called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. You will find stations at campsites, at many aree di sosta and at some agriturismi; the apps show current user reports, because broken or locked stations are common.
- Empty grey water and the toilet cassette only at a station; illegal dumping is a main reason why municipalities introduce new motorhome bans.
- Tap water is usually drinkable, look for “acqua potabile”. Public fountains (“fontanella”) are often good places to fill up in Italy, but in dry summers there can be restrictions.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders cannot be swapped in Italy. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at GPL filling stations with the Italian adapter (Dish); often only the staff do the filling, and in rural regions GPL stations are few and far between. Arrive with full cylinders.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on motorways; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on motorways. Caravan combinations: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on motorways. Dipped headlights are required outside built-up areas, even in daytime.
- ZTLs with camera monitoring exist in L’Aquila, Sulmona and other places in the Abruzzo; entry without a permit is prohibited, fines arrive by post.
- Tolls: the A24 Roma–L’Aquila–Teramo and the A25 Torano–Pescara (“Strada dei Parchi”) are tolled and expensive by Italian standards; the Gran Sasso tunnel is part of the A24. Upland roads and passes (Campo Imperatore, Passo Lanciano) are often closed in winter; check the status with the operator and the municipality.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, for example bikes on a rear carrier, the red-and-white warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is compulsory. Alcohol limit 0.5, for new drivers and professional drivers 0.0; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit. From 15 November to 15 April winter equipment (snow chains or winter tyres) may be required on many routes – follow the signs.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Walking boots with a good tread and a windproof jacket for Campo Imperatore and the Majella – at 1800 metres it is cool even in summer.
- Binoculars for the high plain – chamois, golden eagles and, with luck, wolves can be watched here.
- Snow chains or winter tyres: from November to April winter equipment is compulsory on the passes.
- A full tank and a spare can: filling stations are few and far between in the mountains.
- Level 2 wheel ramps for the sloping pitches in the villages.
- A thermos flask and a woollen blanket for the cool evenings on the high plain.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
