In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the Hudson Highlands shore at Beacon via Woodstock to Kaaterskill Falls: a route between sculpture park, river valley and the mountain forests of the Hudson River painters.
The spirit of the route
The Hudson Valley is the land that the painters of the Hudson River School made famous in the mid-19th century: wide river bends, hazy hills, forests that stand in red and gold in October. On the route the character changes quickly. By the river at Cold Spring and Beacon, breezes blow in from the mountains, the railway runs along the bank, and from the sliding door you look across the water to Storm King and the Hudson Highlands. Further west the forest closes in, the road follows streams through narrow valleys, Woodstock has small shops and galleries, and on the slopes of the Catskills trails climb to waterfalls and rock edges. At night it is quiet, in late summer crickets sing, and in autumn it smells of leaves and wood smoke. The route is short in kilometres, but the valleys are steep, parking is limited and weekends are full, especially at leaf-colour time.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Cold Spring to Storm King (Mountainville) (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Cold Spring on NY-9D along the east bank of the Hudson to Beacon, then over the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge (I-84) to the west bank and on country roads to Mountainville. Two-lane, speeds 35–55 mph, narrow around Breakneck Ridge with pedestrians at the roadside, town traffic in Beacon. Pure driving time is about 1 hour. The Storm King Highway (NY-218) on the west bank is narrow and not recommended for large vehicles; heed the warning signs.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Breakneck Ridge and Cold Spring: the village has a small main street with shops by the river; the steep hiking trails on Breakneck Ridge are considered demanding, and the car parks on NY-9D are scarce and fill up at weekends.
- Beacon: art town on the river with Main Street and Dia Beacon, a museum of art from the 1960s onwards in a former printing works; check opening times and admission beforehand.
- Storm King Art Center near Mountainville: sculpture park of about 500 acres with large works in the open air; opens seasonally (mostly April to early November), so check opening days and tickets beforehand. Allow at least three hours.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: For overnight stays by the river, the nearest public campground is on the east bank: Mills-Norrie State Park near Staatsburg with a campground (sites, toilets, showers) on the Hudson; check vehicle length, electricity and season at parks.ny.gov before booking. In the Hudson Highlands themselves there are only a few sites for large vehicles, so plan early.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping on riverbanks, at stations and at viewpoints is not allowed in the towns on the Hudson; municipalities and State Parks patrol at night. Dispersed camping in New York State is possible only under conditions in State Forests and in the DEC Forest Preserve, hardly suitable for campers.
- Insider tip for campers
- The parkways in the Hudson Valley (for example the Taconic State Parkway) were built for cars and have low stone bridges and vehicle restrictions; plan motorhomes according to the signs and preferably stay on US-9, NY-9D or NY-28. The car parks at Breakneck Ridge and at Cold Spring station are not designed for large vehicles, so arrive early.
2Stage 2: Storm King (Mountainville) to Kingston (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- From Mountainville on small country roads and US-9W north, via Highland and New Paltz and on along the river to Kingston. Two to four lanes, speeds 45–55 mph, hilly in the Shawangunk Mountains, stop-and-go in towns. Pure driving time is about 1.5 hours. Mills-Norrie State Park lies on the east bank; the Kingston-Rhinecliff Bridge leads across if you want to stay overnight there.
- Highlights & must-sees
- New Paltz and the Shawangunk Ridge: rock walls and trails in the Mohonk Preserve and Minnewaska State Park Preserve; both charge admission or day fees and in places require reservations, so check opening times and access. The access roads are in places narrow.
- Rondout Waterfront in Kingston: historic harbour with cafés and the Hudson River Maritime Museum, and the old town in Uptown Kingston with stone houses; parking in the centre is scarce for large vehicles.
- Hudson Valley Rail Trail or Walkway Over the Hudson in Poughkeepsie as a detour: a former railway bridge, now a pedestrian bridge; check opening and parking beforehand.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Mills-Norrie State Park near Staatsburg on the east bank of the Hudson: campground with sites for tents and motorhomes, sanitary facilities, dump station according to the park website; check length, electricity and season times at parks.ny.gov before booking. Lake Taghkanic State Park further north also offers sites; reservations, as in all New York State Parks, several months ahead, and booked out early in autumn.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping in the towns or in trailhead car parks; preserve and State Park grounds close at night. As a fallback, head for private RV parks around New Paltz and Kingston.
- Insider tip for campers
- The bridges over the Hudson (Newburgh-Beacon, Mid-Hudson, Kingston-Rhinecliff) are partly toll bridges (E-ZPass or payment by licence plate); rental companies often charge service fees. Watch vehicle heights at the old stone bridges on the parkways.
3Stage 3: Kingston to Phoenicia (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- From Kingston on NY-28 west to Boiceville, where you turn off to Woodstock via NY-375 and back to NY-28, then on through the Esopus Valley to Phoenicia. Two-lane, speeds 40–55 mph, winding and hilly, stop-and-go in the village of Woodstock. This is one of the quieter sections of the Catskills; on autumn weekends it backs up.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Woodstock: artists’ village with small shops and galleries on the Village Green; parking in the village is scarce, so stop on the edge with a motorhome and walk.
- Overlook Mountain: hiking trail to a viewing platform with a view into the Hudson Valley, with the remains of a hotel that was never finished; ascent about 4 miles there and back, trails partly stony. The car park is small, so check the status on site.
- Esopus Creek and Phoenicia: river with swimming spots and tubing in summer; the village is the starting point for trails in the Catskill Park; local outfitters offer trips, so ask directly about dates.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Kenneth L. Wilson Campground near Mount Tremper (DEC): woodland site by a lake with toilets and showers, vehicles depending on the site; check length limits and season on the DEC page. Woodland Valley Campground near Phoenicia (DEC) lies in a narrow valley by the stream, more for tents and small vehicles. Reservations through the DEC reservation system at reserveamerica.com or the state portal; check times and fees.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Catskill Forest Preserve, camping is possible free of charge on the designated areas under DEC rules (distance from roads, trails and water, time limit); vehicles may only be parked on approved roads, and campers must expect the area’s signs at the roadside. Practically unsuitable for large vehicles; check the DEC rules on site.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel and shop in Boiceville and Woodstock; beyond Phoenicia there are only small shops. The Esopus Valley carries water quickly in heavy rain, so keep an eye on tent sites by the stream. In high water roads can be closed; check the municipalities’ notices.
4Stage 4: Phoenicia to Haines Falls (Kaaterskill) (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Phoenicia via NY-214 through Stony Clove north to Hunter, then on NY-23A east towards Haines Falls. Both sections are narrow, winding and steep; for long or heavy vehicles, heed the warning signs and drive slowly. Pure driving time is just under 1 hour, more with stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Kaaterskill Falls: two-tier waterfall of about 260 ft (79 m), one of the highest in the state; since a rebuild with a bridge and steps the trail is better developed, and parking on NY-23A is scarce and enforced, so read the rules on site.
- North-South Lake and Artists’ Point: lakes above the Hudson plain with trails into the Kaaterskill High Peak region; Artists’ Point on the edge of Kaaterskill Clove is a viewpoint where the painters of the Hudson River School stood.
- Hunter and the Stony Clove region: village with a ski area, in summer hiking trails and cable cars; check opening times with the operator.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: North-South Lake Campground near Haines Falls (DEC): large site above the Hudson plain, toilets, showers, vehicles up to the lengths given in the reservation system; check status and electricity on the DEC page. Devil’s Tombstone Campground on NY-214 is smaller and more basic. Both can be reserved through the DEC portal; booked out early in autumn.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Catskill Forest Preserve, free camping is possible under DEC rules, but only with a tent away from roads and trails; overnighting in a camper at the roadside or in car parks is not allowed. Above 3,500 ft a camping ban applies in winter; check the rules with the DEC.
- Insider tip for campers
- NY-23A through Kaaterskill Clove is steep and narrow; with long or heavy vehicles, check the signs and restrictions beforehand and drive downhill in a low gear. Visit Kaaterskill Falls early in the morning; at weekends the access road fills up. Buy water and supplies beforehand in Hunter or Phoenicia.
5Stage 5: Haines Falls (Kaaterskill) to Catskill (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Haines Falls on NY-23A downhill through Kaaterskill Clove to Palenville, then via NY-32 and NY-23B to Catskill on the Hudson. The section in the Clove is steep and winding, after which comes a flatter valley floor with villages and orchards. Pure driving time is about 1 hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Thomas Cole National Historic Site in Catskill: home and studio of the founder of the Hudson River School, visited mostly with a guided tour or time slot; check opening times and admission beforehand.
- Olana State Historic Site near Hudson: estate of the painter Frederic Church with house and landscape park on the east bank; check opening times and tours on the website, parking on the grounds is limited.
- Catskill Creek and the Hudson bank: small promenade by the river with a view of the mountains; suitable for a quiet break.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: For the last night, private RV parks and Lake Taghkanic State Park lie in the surrounding area; check vehicle length, electricity and season beforehand at parks.ny.gov or with the operators. Booked out early in autumn.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping in the towns on the Hudson or in the car parks of the historic sites; patrols check at night. If you are left without a site, fall back on private RV parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- Drive the road through the Clove only in dry weather and with a rested driver; in winter it can be closed or icy. Note the toll bridges on the return trip across the Hudson (E-ZPass or licence plate).
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In New York State, sleeping in a vehicle outside designated sites is largely prohibited: towns, municipalities, State Parks and the Forest Preserve patrol at night, and car parks at waterfalls and trailheads are often closed or monitored.
- Camping in the Catskill Forest Preserve is possible free of charge under DEC rules (for example no more than three nights for small groups, distance from roads, trails and water, no camping above 3,500 ft in winter); vehicles may only stand on approved tracks and car parks, so a motorhome is unsuitable. Check the current rules at dec.ny.gov.
- Rest areas on the Thruway and interstates usually allow only time-limited parking; camping is not allowed there. Supermarket car parks vary, so ask in the store.
- Firewood: in New York, firewood may only be transported from the local area (under the DEC rule no further than 50 miles) or heat-treated and labelled; buy wood at the campground.
- Wildlife: black bears live in the Catskills; keep food in the vehicle or in bear-proof containers at night and do not leave rubbish lying around. Ticks (Lyme disease) are widespread.
- Useful apps and sites: parks.ny.gov (State Parks), dec.ny.gov (camping in the Catskill Park), Recreation.gov, iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations are available in individual State Parks and DEC campgrounds according to the park website (for example Mills-Norrie), often for campers only; more at private RV parks and petrol stations for a fee. sanidumps.com gives an overview; check the status beforehand.
- Tap water in New York is drinkable; fresh-water points at campgrounds according to the operator. Filter or boil stream water in the Catskills before use.
- Never discharge grey water onto the ground or into streams; empty chemical toilets only at dump stations.
- Propane at petrol stations and from dealers in Kingston, Woodstock, Catskill and Poughkeepsie. European gas cylinders need adapters and usually are not refilled; rental motorhomes have permanently fitted US tanks.
- Fuel and shopping: supermarkets in Beacon, Kingston, New Paltz and Catskill; in Phoenicia, Hunter and Haines Falls only smaller shops. Fill up before the mountain valleys.
- Electricity: sites with hook-ups offer 30 and 50 A (120 V); the Catskill campgrounds mostly have no hook-ups at the site.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in mph: interstates 65, state highways 45–55, towns 25–35, parkways 55 or less with restrictions for commercial vehicles. Using a mobile phone while driving is allowed in New York only hands-free; open alcohol containers in the vehicle are prohibited.
- Parkways: the Hudson Valley parkways (Taconic, Bear Mountain, Palisades) are designed for cars, with low bridges; plan motorhomes according to the signs. Maximum height for vehicles in most states is 13 ft 6 in (4.11 m).
- Tolls: bridges over the Hudson are partly toll bridges (E-ZPass or licence plate), as is the New York State Thruway; rental companies often charge service fees.
- Admission and fees: State Parks charge a day fee per vehicle, and the Empire Pass covers many entries; campground prices and reservations through parks.ny.gov and the DEC portal. Check the current amounts.
- Reservations: book sites in State Parks and DEC campgrounds several months ahead; leaf colour from the end of September to mid-October is the high season.
- Weather and season: summer warm and humid, thunderstorms, autumn with falling leaves, in winter snow and ice; roads in Kaaterskill Clove can be closed. Watch for high water in streams after heavy rain.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception in the valleys is patchy. On wet rocks and at waterfalls, never climb over barriers.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Hiking boots with a grippy sole for the rocks at Kaaterskill Falls and the stony trails on Overlook Mountain.
- Rain jacket and a warm layer: in the Catskills it can get cool at night even in summer, and often wet in autumn.
- Tick protection (repellent, tick tweezers): ticks and Lyme disease are widespread in the woods and meadows.
- Bear-proof storage (lockable cool box or bear canister) for sites in the Catskill Park.
- Offline maps and printed reservations: reception drops out in the valleys.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
