In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 335 km from Marsala via the Stagnone salt pans, Trapani and Erice, San Vito lo Capo and the Zingaro, Segesta and Selinunte back to Mazara del Vallo and Marsala – plus a day by ferry to the Egadi Islands.
The spirit of the route
Western Sicily smells of salt, wind and wine. Between Marsala and Trapani the salt pans lie like mirrors in the shallow water, windmills turn, and in the evening the lagoon turns pink. From Trapani the ferries go to the Egadi, where the motorhome stays on land and you get around on foot, by bike or by boat. Mist often hangs on Monte Erice, in San Vito lo Capo a white beach lies beneath the rock of Monte Monaco, and in the Zingaro nature reserve a path runs along an unspoilt steep coast. Then come two Greek temple sites: the unfinished temple of Segesta stands alone on a hill, and Selinunte lies between sea and fields. After the stretches inland, the air smells of carob and thyme. If you travel in spring or autumn, you will have beach and temples almost to yourself.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Marsala to Trapani (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Marsala on the coast road SP21 (Via del Sale) along the Stagnone lagoon and the salt pans to Trapani. A flat, easy-to-drive road with windmills, salt heaps and farm traffic; the turn-offs to the landing stages are narrow. About 45 minutes, considerably longer with stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Riserva dello Stagnone: lagoon with salt pans and windmills, Saline Ettore e Infersa with a salt museum.
- Isola di Mozia (San Pantaleo): a Phoenician settlement on an island in the lagoon, reached by boat from the landing stage on the Via del Sale.
- Trapani: old town with baroque churches, Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the view of the Egadi.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Between Marsala and Trapani there are several sites, including Villa Maria, Area B&B Isola del Sale and the site Sole Mare Sale near the salt pans; in Marsala, Lylibeo Village offers pitches. Electricity and waste disposal are partly available; check status and opening times beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Stagnone nature reserve overnighting outside designated sites is banned; the car parks at the salt pans are mostly intended only for daytime visitors. Wild camping on the beach is checked.
- Insider tip for campers
- The crossing to Mozia takes only a short time; the ferry service depends on wind and season, so check times beforehand. Buy the salt from the salt pans, “sale marino di Trapani” (PGI), directly on the spot. In the evening the salt pans are particularly impressive in the pink light.
2Stage 2: Trapani to Egadi (Favignana) (approx. 15 km)
- The drive
- With the motorhome you drive only to the port of Trapani (a short stretch, partly city traffic); hydrofoils and ferries to Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo take care of the rest. Motorhomes stay on the mainland, and taking vehicles to the Egadi is restricted. The crossing to Favignana takes a good half hour by hydrofoil, longer by ferry; for Marettimo allow at least an hour. Check timetables beforehand.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Favignana: the former Tonnara Florio, the old tuna factory, and beaches such as Cala Rossa with clear water.
- Levanzo: a small island with the Grotta del Genovese, which contains prehistoric wall drawings; visits only with a guide.
- Erice (alternative): a mountain town at around 750 m with a Norman castle and a cable car from Trapani.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Trapani, the coast north of the city offers sites such as Camping Lido Valderice; the aree di sosta near Nubia are also starting points. Leave the motorhome on a guarded site in the port area and take luggage for the day with you. Check opening times and fees beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the port area of Trapani overnighting outside designated sites is not allowed; the ferry car parks are charged. On the Egadi themselves there is no way to park a motorhome legally overnight.
- Insider tip for campers
- In summer, book hydrofoil tickets online in advance, as the boats are often full then; crossing times change with the season. On Favignana you can hire bicycles; the island is flat. The cable car to Erice may be out of service in wind and for maintenance; check operating times beforehand.
3Stage 3: Trapani to San Vito lo Capo (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Trapani on the SS187 via Valderice and Custonaci towards Monte Cofano and on to San Vito lo Capo. A winding road near the coast with a view of Monte Cofano; the roads through the villages are tight. About an hour, considerably longer in summer.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Riserva Naturale Orientata Monte Cofano: a rock massif on the coast with walking trails and views.
- Tonnara di Bonagia: a former tuna factory by the sea near Valderice.
- San Vito lo Capo: white sandy beach beneath Monte Monaco, known for couscous dishes.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In San Vito lo Capo are Camping Sole e Mare, Camping La Pineta and the motorhome sites Area Sosta Camper Giovanni and Area di sosta Camper da Francesca; at Macari is Camping El Bahira. Electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal are mostly available; book early in high season.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In San Vito lo Capo and in the Monte Cofano nature reserve wild camping is banned; the municipality carries out checks in summer, and the car parks at the beach are charged. Prohibition signs take precedence.
- Insider tip for campers
- San Vito is extremely crowded in August; park on the site and walk. The Couscous Fest usually takes place in September, and the exact date changes every year. Monte Monaco can be climbed from San Vito; take water and sun protection.
4Stage 4: San Vito lo Capo to Scopello (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From San Vito lo Capo on the SP63 and SS187 along the coast to Scopello and on to Castellammare del Golfo; winding, with panoramic views and narrow points in the roads through the villages. About an hour. For the walk through the reserve, park at the entrances.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Riserva dello Zingaro: Sicily's first nature reserve, about seven kilometres of coastal path without cars, with swimming coves.
- Scopello: the tonnara with the Faraglioni in the sea, a small old town.
- Castellammare del Golfo: a harbour with a castle and fish restaurants.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Scopello is Agricampeggio Scopello, and near Castellammare del Golfo are Camping Nausicaa, La Playa and Camping Lu Baruni; electricity and sanitary facilities are available. Ask about opening times and facilities beforehand, and book in high season.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Zingaro reserve overnighting is prohibited; access is limited, and cars must stay outside. Around Scopello and Castellammare summer bans apply, and the car parks at the beach are checked.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Zingaro is a protected area: there is an entrance fee, so check opening times and entrances beforehand, take water and food, and take your litter away again. The walk takes half a day to a whole day depending on the route; in summer start early. The tonnara of Scopello is a popular photo subject, best visited in the morning.
5Stage 5: Scopello to Selinunte via Segesta (approx. 105 km)
- The drive
- From Scopello via the SS187 and the A29 motorway to Segesta, then on along the A29 and the SS115 via Castelvetrano to Selinunte. A well-built route, with the last stretch on country roads with farm traffic. About two hours of pure driving time; allow for the visit to Segesta as well.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Segesta: an unfinished Doric temple from the 5th century BC on a hill, and an ancient theatre with a view over the gulf.
- Selinunte: archaeological park with Temples E, F and G and the acropolis, right on the sea.
- Cave di Cusa near Campobello di Mazara: ancient quarries where column drums were left lying; they lie on the route of stage 6.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Selinunte (Marinella di Selinunte) are Camping Athena and Helios Camping, as well as other sites such as Pozzitello Village on the coast; electricity, sanitary facilities and in some cases waste disposal are available. Check opening times beforehand; many sites close in winter. Near Segesta itself places to stay overnight are rare.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the Selinunte archaeological park overnighting in the car parks is not allowed; the coast is checked in season. At Segesta, too, the visitor car park is intended only for daytime.
- Insider tip for campers
- Segesta lies up on the hill, and the way to the theatre is by shuttle bus; check opening times and tickets beforehand. Visit Selinunte in the late afternoon, when the light on the temples is soft. Shop and refuel in Castelvetrano.
6Stage 6: Selinunte to Mazara del Vallo (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Selinunte via the Cave di Cusa and Campobello di Mazara on country roads to Mazara del Vallo. Flat roads that are easy to drive, through vineyards and olive groves; the entry into Mazara is in places tight. About an hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Mazara del Vallo: an old town (Casbah) with an Arab character, narrow lanes and a fishing harbour.
- Museo del Satiro Danzante: the exhibit is the bronze figure of a dancing satyr that was recovered from the sea.
- Fish market and restaurants: Mazara is known for prawns (“gambero rosso”).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Mazara del Vallo are Giardino degli Emiri, Vacanze EMaMè and Sporting Club Village; electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal are mostly available, so ask about opening times beforehand. The sites lie partly somewhat outside, by the sea.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Mazara del Vallo the old town is partly ZTL; overnighting in public car parks is banned in season. On the beach, summer bans also apply.
- Insider tip for campers
- It is best to explore the Casbah on foot, as the lanes are narrow; park at the harbour or on the edge of town. Buy fresh fish at the harbour in the morning. The museum has fixed opening times, so check beforehand.
7Stage 7: Mazara del Vallo to Marsala (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Mazara del Vallo on the SS115 north to Marsala, past vineyards and wine estates. A flat, well-built road. About 30 minutes. In Marsala the coast road leads to Capo Boeo.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Marsala: a wine town with historic wine cellars, where a Marsala DOC wine tasting is possible.
- Capo Boeo: archaeological park with Roman mosaics and the museum.
- Museo Archeologico Baglio Anselmi: an exhibition with the Punic ship from the 3rd century BC.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Marsala, Lylibeo Village, Camping Biscione and sites on the coast offer pitches with electricity and sanitary facilities; ask about opening times and facilities beforehand. More sites lie at the salt pans north of the city.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Marsala overnighting in public car parks is banned in season; the old town is partly ZTL. On the beach, summer bans apply.
- Insider tip for campers
- Book a wine tasting in advance; appointments are often possible only by arrangement. The museum with the Punic ship has fixed opening times. If you want to go on to Palermo, follow the A29 via Mazara.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law (Codice della Strada, Art. 185) separates parking from camping: where parking is allowed, a motorhome may stand and also stay overnight, as long as it touches the ground only with its wheels. Chairs, tables, awning, stabilisers, wedges and discharged grey water are prohibited.
- In Sicily many municipalities issue summer ordinances with parking and overnight bans for motorhomes, above all in San Vito lo Capo, Scopello and at the beaches; checks happen in July and August. Prohibition signs take precedence over the general law.
- In the nature reserves (Zingaro, Monte Cofano, Stagnone, Vendicari) and in archaeological zones, their own rules apply; wild camping is prohibited, as are fires. On the Egadi, taking vehicles is restricted.
- Useful apps: park4night, CamperOnline and Campercontact; phone to check information on aree attrezzate beforehand.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Water supply and waste disposal is called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. In western Sicily it is available on campsites and at some aree attrezzate; public stations are rare.
- Empty grey water and the toilet cassette only at the station; dumping in the wild leads to new bans.
- Tap water is mostly drinkable, but look for “acqua potabile”; in summer water is sometimes scarce in Sicily, so fill your tank in good time.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Italy. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at LPG filling stations with the Italian adapter; often only the staff do the filling. Arrive with two full cylinders.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on motorways; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on motorways. Vehicles towing a caravan: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on motorways. Outside built-up areas, dipped headlights are required in daytime too.
- ZTL zones with camera monitoring exist in Trapani, Erice, Marsala, Mazara del Vallo and other old towns; fines arrive by post, often months later. Observe the signs.
- Tolls: the A29 motorway in western Sicily (Palermo–Mazara del Vallo with the Alcamo–Trapani branch) is toll-free. Ferries to the Egadi carry passengers; taking vehicles is restricted.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, for example bicycles on a rear carrier, the red-and-white warning plate (50 × 50 cm) is compulsory. Blood alcohol limit 0.5, for novice and professional drivers 0.0; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free system. In wind, ferry services may be cancelled, so allow a time buffer.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Bicycle or folding bike: on Favignana the bicycle is the best way to get around, and the coastal paths near Trapani are flat.
- Water shoes and snorkel for the rocky coves of the Egadi and the Zingaro, with a mask for the clear water.
- Sun protection, hat and at least two litres of water per person for the walk in the Zingaro and the temple sites without shade.
- Windproof jacket: on Monte Erice and on the coast there is often a strong wind, which can delay ferries.
- Italian gas adapter for LPG filling stations, plus two full cylinders when you enter the country.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
