In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Burlington over Washington Pass into the Methow Valley and on to Chelan: around 330 kilometres along SR 20, one of the most beautiful mountain pass roads in the USA, which closes for months every winter.
The spirit of the route
The North Cascades are the roughest mountains in the north-west of the USA, and State Route 20 is the only road that crosses them. In the west the Skagit flows through damp rainforest, and dams hold it back into brilliant turquoise lakes such as Diablo Lake, coloured by glacial flour. Then the road climbs in switchbacks over Rainy Pass and Washington Pass, where granite spires stand above larch forests and in October the larches turn golden. In the east the climate changes abruptly: ponderosa pines, dry slopes, the Methow Valley with Winthrop, a Western town with wooden boardwalks. From the sliding door you smell resin, dust and river water. The route is short but high alpine, dependent on weather, wildfire smoke and the winter closure; if you plan flexibly, you get one of the quietest camper routes in the country.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Burlington to Newhalem (approx. 100 km)
- The drive
- From Burlington take SR 20 east via Sedro-Woolley and Concrete, then along the Skagit River through forest and farmland to Marblemount (the last larger filling station) and Newhalem in the Skagit Gorge valley. It is two lanes, 55 mph, with many villages in the valley, and beyond Marblemount the road becomes narrow. Pure driving time is about 1.5–2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Skagit eagle watching: from December to February bald eagles gather on the Skagit; viewpoints near Rockport and Marblemount, so check viewing times and rules.
- Newhalem Visitor Center and Ladder Creek Falls: a suspension bridge, waterfall and a small loop trail at the Gorge Dam complex; check visitor centre and access opening times.
- Gorge Creek Falls: a waterfall 242 feet (74 m) high beneath the SR 20 bridge, with a viewpoint at the roadside.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Howard Miller Steelhead Park (Skagit County) near Rockport: sites with hookups, showers and a dump station, on the Skagit River; reserve through Skagit County Parks. Newhalem Creek Campground (NPS): sites for motorhomes without hookups, drinking water; reserve through Recreation.gov, season roughly mid-May to mid/late September. Alternatively Goodell Creek Campground (NPS) on the Skagit, simple sites; outside the season without water and rubbish service (first come, first served).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In North Cascades National Park and Ross Lake National Recreation Area, overnighting in a vehicle outside campgrounds is prohibited. In the Mount Baker–Snoqualmie National Forest, dispersed camping and simple forest-road campgrounds are possible; check access roads and fire bans beforehand.
- Insider tip for campers
- Marblemount has the last filling station before the pass; fill up here and top up water and supplies. On SR 20 beyond Newhalem there is no dump station; take care of waste water and fresh water before the pass. Higher fees may apply in national parks for visitors without US residence; check current amounts on nps.gov.
2Stage 2: Newhalem to Mazama (approx. 120 km)
- The drive
- From Newhalem SR 20 climbs through the Skagit Gorge area to the reservoirs of Gorge, Diablo and Ross Lake, then in switchbacks over Rainy Pass (1,480 m) and Washington Pass (around 1,670 m) down into the Methow Valley to Mazama. It is two lanes with tight bends and gradients of up to about 6–7%, 35–55 mph. Pure driving time is about 2.5 hours; with stops, a full day. The road is closed in winter (mostly from November to May), and opening and closing dates change every year (in 2026 the road was closed until 14 June after a washout and a landslide); check status with WSDOT.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Diablo Lake Overlook: a viewing platform with a view of the turquoise water and the peaks; the car park fills quickly in summer, so go early in the day.
- Thunder Knob Trail and Blue Lake: short hikes to viewpoints (Thunder Knob about 3 miles round trip), Blue Lake between Rainy Pass and Washington Pass; mind the weather and bear rules.
- Washington Pass Overlook: a short paved path to a viewpoint of Liberty Bell and the Early Winters Spires.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Colonial Creek Campground (NPS) on Diablo Lake: two sections (north and south) at the lake, sites for motorhomes without hookups, drinking water, rubbish bins; reserve through Recreation.gov, season until about mid-September, after that only a few tent sites; check conditions beforehand. Lone Fir Campground (USFS) near Washington Pass: simple sites, no electricity. Early Winters Campground (USFS) in Mazama: sites on the Methow River; check vehicle lengths.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Prohibited in the national park and in Ross Lake NRA; in the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest dispersed camping is possible on forest roads at Rainy Pass and in the Methow Valley; access is difficult for large campers, so check road conditions. Heed fire and wildfire levels in summer.
- Insider tip for campers
- On the switchbacks at Washington Pass drive slowly in a low gear and do not overheat the brakes. In late summer wildfire smoke can obscure visibility and temporarily close SR 20; check current reports with WSDOT and InciWeb. At Diablo Lake a stop at the viewpoint before 9 am is worthwhile, before the coaches arrive.
3Stage 3: Mazama to Winthrop (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Mazama SR 20 follows the Methow River to Winthrop; the road is well built, 35–55 mph, and the landscape changes from forest to open, dry slopes. Pure driving time is about 30 minutes; allow a full day for visiting the town and hiking.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Mazama Store and Lost River: a small shop and hiking trails along the Methow River; trailheads for hikes to Cutthroat Pass and Hart’s Pass.
- Winthrop: a Western town with wooden boardwalks, shops, restaurants and the Shafer Museum; parking for motorhomes on the street and at the edge of town.
- Pearrygin Lake and Methow Valley Trail: a lake with a beach, cycle and hiking trails by the river, and cross-country ski trails in winter.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Pearrygin Lake State Park near Winthrop: a large campground on the lake, sites with hookups, showers and a dump station; reserve through Washington State Parks. Winthrop KOA or Riverbend RV Park (private) are in town. Alternatively Klipchuck Campground (USFS) in the mountains with simple sites and views.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, dispersed camping is in places possible on forest roads along Hart’s Pass Road; the road is steep and unpaved, unsuitable for large motorhomes. Heed fire and burn bans in summer.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Winthrop fill up and stock up before continuing; the Methow Valley has several shops and filling stations. The valley is one of the driest and sunniest areas in Washington State; check heat in summer and smoke and fire risk in autumn.
4Stage 4: Winthrop to Pateros (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- From Winthrop via Twisp and Carlton into the lower Methow Valley, then on SR 153 to Pateros on the Columbia River. Mostly two lanes, 50–55 mph, through orchards, pasture slopes and river stretches. Pure driving time is about 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Twisp: a small town with shops, a farmers market and concerts in summer; parking for motorhomes on the main street.
- Methow Valley Community Trail: a cycle and hiking path along the river, cross-country skiing in winter; access points in Winthrop, Twisp and Mazama.
- Pateros and the Columbia River: viewpoints on the river, a waterfront promenade, harbour and beach on the Columbia.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Alta Lake State Park near Pateros: a lake in the highlands, sites with hookups, showers and a dump station; reserve through Washington State Parks. Pateros Memorial Park (municipal) on the Columbia with simple sites. Alternatively Loup Loup Campground (USFS) in the mountains.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, forest roads are usable; in the valley, overnight parking at beaches and car parks is prohibited. Heed burn regulations.
- Insider tip for campers
- Water is in places scarce in the valley, so top up before continuing. Fruit stands in autumn: apples, pears, apricots and cherries; regional produce in Winthrop and Twisp. SR 153 has bridges and narrow points; check vehicle dimensions beforehand.
5Stage 5: Pateros to Chelan (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Pateros take US-97 along the Columbia River south to Chelan at the southern end of Lake Chelan. A well-built road, 55–65 mph, with wide views and orchards. Pure driving time is about 45 minutes; allow a full day for trips on the lake.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lake Chelan: the deepest lake in Washington; boat tours (for example Lady of the Lake to Stehekin, check the timetable), beach and water sports.
- Chelan Falls Park: a small park at the waterfall, a short stop.
- Wineries in the Lake Chelan Valley: tastings, viewpoints; check parking for motorhomes beforehand.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Lake Chelan State Park (west of Chelan on the south shore): a large site with lake access, sites with hookups, showers and a dump station; reserve through Washington State Parks, booked up early in summer. Alternatively Twenty-five Mile Creek State Park on the south shore, further west. Both in places have a vehicle length limit.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, forest roads are usable; at the lake, overnighting in a vehicle outside campgrounds is prohibited. Check fire regulations in summer beforehand.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up in Chelan and use the dump station and water; Stehekin is reachable only by boat, floatplane or on foot. If you are continuing to Seattle or Wenatchee, plan to go over Stevens Pass or Blewett Pass (check road conditions).
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Overnighting in a vehicle outside designated campgrounds is not allowed in North Cascades National Park and Ross Lake National Recreation Area; on beaches, at viewpoints and in car parks too, a no-overnight-parking rule mostly applies. Enforcement is by rangers, sheriffs and city police.
- Dispersed camping is legal on much land in the Mount Baker–Snoqualmie and Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests as well as Washington DNR land (a Discover Pass is needed), mostly for up to 14 days in one place; forest roads are often unsuitable for large campers. Check wildfire and fire bans beforehand.
- Rest areas and supermarket car parks sometimes allow overnighting only briefly; if in doubt, ask in the shop. In the Methow Valley and in Chelan, overnight parking at beaches is mostly prohibited.
- Wildlife: black bears, cougars, mule deer and marmots occur here; keep food in the vehicle or in bear-proof containers at night, and keep rubbish closed. Keep at least 100 yards (91 m) from bears and wolves and 25 yards (23 m) from other animals; feeding is prohibited.
- Useful apps and sites: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, Recreation.gov (NPS and Forest Service sites), Washington State Parks (washington.goingtocamp.com), WSDOT (road conditions and SR 20 closures) and InciWeb (wildfires).
- If you cannot get a site, you have three options: private RV parks (Sedro-Woolley, Winthrop, Twisp, Chelan), short-notice sites on the parks’ websites and individual nights in towns with hotels.
- If you are checked, stay friendly, leave the car park and do not argue. Fines on rental motorhomes are usually passed on.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations are found in state parks (Pearrygin Lake, Alta Lake, Lake Chelan), Skagit County campgrounds and RV parks for a fee; there are none beyond Newhalem until Mazama; sanidumps.com lists locations.
- Tap water in Washington is drinkable; NPS campgrounds in places have drinking water points, but no hookups. Always filter or boil water from streams and rivers.
- Never drain grey water onto the ground or into streams; empty chemical toilets only at dump stations.
- Propane is available from filling stations, DIY stores and propane dealers in Burlington, Sedro-Woolley, Twisp and Chelan. European gas bottles need an adapter; rental motorhomes have fixed US tanks.
- Fuel: Marblemount has the last filling station before the pass (around 100 km to Mazama); further stations in Winthrop, Twisp, Pateros and Chelan. Fill up before the pass.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Burlington, Sedro-Woolley, Winthrop, Twisp and Chelan; in Marblemount and Newhalem only small shops with higher prices.
- Electricity: sites with hookups offer 30 and 50 A at 120 V; NPS campgrounds mostly have no electricity. Generators are allowed in state parks and NPS campgrounds only at set times.
- Laundry and waste: coin laundries in Burlington, Winthrop and Chelan; bins at campgrounds, often bear-proofed.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in mph: on SR 20 the limit is mostly 55 mph, 25–35 mph in towns and 35–45 on the pass switchbacks; there is no general special limit for motorhomes and vehicles with trailers, but drive more slowly on climbs and descents. Slow vehicles must use pullouts when several vehicles are following.
- Tolls and fees: no toll on SR 20. No park entry fee is charged for driving through on SR 20, but check current rules on nps.gov; the America the Beautiful Pass is valid for NPS land. Higher fees may apply for visitors without US residence.
- Parks and entry fees: campground prices in 2026 are roughly in the range of 20–60 USD per night depending on site type and season; sites with hookups cost more. For Washington State Parks and DNR land, note the Discover Pass.
- Dimensions and lengths: many sites are limited to 30–40 ft, often shorter at NPS and USFS campgrounds. The legal maximum height is 14 ft (4.27 m). Watch height restrictions in small car parks and multi-storey car parks. Use a low gear on climbs and descents.
- Reservations: Washington State Parks up to nine months ahead, NPS and Forest Service sites through Recreation.gov, mostly six months ahead. Flexible dates pay off because sites often become free at short notice.
- Weather and season: SR 20 is closed in winter; it mostly opens May to June and closes mostly in November, with dates differing each year (check WSDOT). The best time is July to October; golden larches in autumn. Wildfire smoke is possible, with thunderstorms in summer.
- Traffic law for travellers: a right turn on red is allowed after a complete stop unless a sign forbids it; at junctions with stop signs, the order of arrival applies. Phones at the wheel only hands-free, and open alcohol containers in the vehicle are prohibited. A German driving licence is sufficient for tourists.
- Campsite rules: many sites limit the length of stay (often 14 nights), quiet hours are usually 10 pm to 6 am, and fires are allowed only in the fire rings and only when there is no fire ban. When booking, pay attention to vehicle and trailer length.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception largely drops out on SR 20 between Newhalem and Mazama. Carry bear spray, a water filter and a map; turn back immediately on wildfire warnings.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Bear-proof containers and bear spray – black bears are common on the campgrounds and hiking trails of the North Cascades.
- A respirator mask (N95/FFP2) and an air quality app – wildfire smoke is widespread in the Methow Valley in late summer.
- Warm layers and a windproof jacket: on the pass it can be 5–10 °C cooler even in summer, with frost and snow in autumn.
- Levelling ramps level 2–3 – Forest Service sites and pitches on slopes are often sloping.
- Offline maps and printed reservations – there is hardly any reception on SR 20 between Newhalem and Mazama.
- Binoculars and a weather app for eagles, marmots and weather changes on the pass.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
