In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Seattle through the rainforests of the Olympic Peninsula, the meadows of Mount Rainier and the waterfalls of the Columbia River Gorge to Cannon Beach and Portland: a loop through the greenest corner of the USA.
The spirit of the route
In the Pacific Northwest, the rain has shaped the landscape. On the ferry to Bainbridge Island the air already smells of salt and diesel, beyond Hood Canal the road grows quieter, and in the Hoh Rain Forest beards of moss hang from the maple branches, so dense that the light falls green through the sliding door. On the coast, bleached tree trunks lie like matchsticks on the sand at Ruby Beach, and in the evening fog drifts over the sea stacks. Then the change of scene: Mount Rainier stands white above the flower meadows of Paradise, and in the Columbia River Gorge waterfalls plunge from basalt cliffs while kiteboarders tack against the west wind on the river below. At the end, Haystack Rock awaits in the morning haze of Cannon Beach. This loop demands rain gear and patience with the weather – and in return gives you nights beneath Sitka spruces where the only sound is the creek beside your site.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Seattle to Port Angeles and Lake Crescent (approx. 150 km)
- The drive
- Take the Washington State ferry from Seattle to Bainbridge Island (a good 35 minutes), then continue via Poulsbo and the floating Hood Canal Bridge onto US-101. Mostly two lanes with passing lanes as far as Port Angeles, past farmland and along the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Around 2.5 hours of driving plus the ferry.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Hurricane Ridge: 27 kilometres of mountain road from Port Angeles up to around 1,600 metres, with views of the Mount Olympus glaciers. The Day Lodge has been out of service since the 2023 fire, and the road can close at short notice due to weather.
- Lake Crescent: a glacial lake with turquoise water; US-101 follows the south shore in tight curves.
- Marymere Falls: a 30-metre waterfall, a good 1.5 kilometres from the Storm King Ranger Station through old-growth forest.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Heart O’ the Hills Campground in Olympic National Park on Hurricane Ridge Road, beneath tall conifers: flush toilets, drinking water, no hookups, no dump station. Year-round “first come, first served” with self-registration. Sites mostly up to 21 ft (6.4 m), only a few up to 35 ft.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Washington Department of Natural Resources (DNR) runs simple, free campgrounds on the Lyre River west of Port Angeles; you need a Discover Pass for DNR land. In Olympic National Forest, dispersed camping is allowed along forest roads unless signed otherwise – but not in the national park itself.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Seattle–Bainbridge ferry cannot be reserved. The fare depends on vehicle length and height; travel on a weekday outside commuter hours and not on a Friday afternoon, or you will wait in line for several sailings. In Port Angeles, fill up with fuel, fresh water and supplies – west of there the choice gets thin.
2Stage 2: Lake Crescent to Hoh Rain Forest (approx. 140 km)
- The drive
- Along Lake Crescent in tight, often wet curves, then faster through logging clearings and second-growth forest to Forks. 20 kilometres further south, Upper Hoh Road branches off: 29 paved kilometres along the Hoh River, narrow beneath Sitka spruces towards the end. Just under 2.5 hours without stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Hall of Mosses Trail: a loop of a good 1 kilometre through maples draped in moss and past fallen nurse logs on which new trees grow.
- Spruce Nature Trail along the Hoh River, with a chance of seeing Roosevelt elk in the river valley.
- Sol Duc Falls as a detour on the way: a 22-kilometre spur road from US-101, then a short forest path to the three-channelled waterfall.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Hoh Rain Forest Campground right on the Hoh River, in the forest next to the visitor center: flush toilets, drinking water, no hookups, no dump station. In 2026, reservations via Recreation.gov were mandatory from 12 June to 6 September; outside that period it is “first come, first served”. Most sites are only suitable for up to 21 ft, a few up to 35 ft.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Outside the park, the DNR’s Minnie Peterson campground lies on Upper Hoh Road and Hoh Oxbow Campground sits right on US-101: simple, free riverside sites, Discover Pass required. Dispersed camping is possible on the surrounding DNR and national forest land unless signed otherwise.
- Insider tip for campers
- In summer, long queues build up at the Hoh Road entrance station from about 10 am, and the visitor center car park is small. Arrive in the afternoon or before 9 am. Forks has the last reliable petrol station before the coast; there is practically no mobile signal in the Hoh valley.
3Stage 3: Hoh Rain Forest to Kalaloch (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- Back out of the Hoh valley, then on US-101 to the coast. From Ruby Beach the road runs along a terrace above the shore, with numbered beach accesses (“Beach 1” to “Beach 6”). Only a little over an hour of driving – a day for the beach and the tides.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ruby Beach: sea stacks, piles of driftwood and Cedar Creek running across the beach into the sea. The car park is tight – arrive early with a large vehicle.
- The “Tree of Life” near Kalaloch Campground: a Sitka spruce whose roots hang in mid-air over an eroded hollow.
- Beach 4: tide pools with sea stars and anemones, accessible only at low tide.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Kalaloch Campground (Olympic National Park) on the bluff above the Pacific, some sites with ocean views: flush toilets, drinking water, dump station for a fee, no hookups. Reservations via Recreation.gov in high season (in 2026 until 20 September), after that “first come, first served”. Most sites up to 21 ft, a few up to 35 ft.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Olympic National Forest east of the coast, dispersed camping is allowed along forest roads unless signed otherwise; the access roads are often gravel with potholes. Overnight stays on the beach and in the national park car parks are prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- Bring a tide table: on this coast the tide and driftwood cut off stretches of beach, and logs moving in the surf are life-threatening. In 2026, Mora Road towards Rialto Beach was closed beyond Mora Campground from 8 July to 15 October for construction – check the status with the park before making a detour.
4Stage 4: Kalaloch to Mount Rainier (Longmire and Cougar Rock) (approx. 310 km)
- The drive
- The longest stage: along US-101 past Lake Quinault to Aberdeen, on the upgraded US-12 and SR-8 towards Olympia, then on country roads (SR-702, SR-7) through farmland to Elbe and Ashford. From the Nisqually entrance, winding and slow through old-growth forest. About 4.5 hours of driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lake Quinault: the Quinault Rain Forest Nature Trail on the south shore and one of the largest Sitka spruces in the world, a few minutes from US-101.
- Longmire: historic national park buildings and the Trail of the Shadows around a meadow with mineral springs.
- Christine Falls on the road to Paradise: a waterfall beneath a stone arch bridge, a short path from a small pull-off.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Cougar Rock Campground (Mount Rainier National Park) between Longmire and Paradise, in the forest by the Nisqually River: flush toilets, drinking water, no hookups. Season roughly late May to early October, reservable and first-come sites via Recreation.gov. Maximum 35 ft for RVs, 27 ft for trailers. The dump station is closed until further notice. Ohanapecosh remains closed in 2026 for renovation.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Gifford Pinchot National Forest south of the park, dispersed camping is allowed, for example on spur roads along Skate Creek Road (Forest Road 52) between Ashford and Packwood. The sites are unmarked, often uneven and only suitable for smaller vehicles; observe fire bans during wildfire season.
- Insider tip for campers
- As there is nowhere to empty tanks at Cougar Rock, dump grey and black water beforehand, for example in Kalaloch or in Olympia. Ashford and Elbe have basic petrol stations; fuel is cheaper around Olympia. Mount Rainier no longer requires timed-entry reservations in 2026.
5Stage 5: Mount Rainier to Hood River (approx. 340 km)
- The drive
- Early in the morning, 18 kilometres uphill to Paradise, then back via Ashford and Elbe, on SR-7 to Morton and US-12 to I-5. Quick going on the interstate to Portland, then on I-84 through the Columbia River Gorge, where the slopes change from dense forest to bare basalt cliffs. Around 4.5 hours of driving, not counting Paradise.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Paradise: the Skyline Trail or the short loop to Myrtle Falls; in high summer lupines and Indian paintbrush on the meadows.
- Reflection Lakes on Stevens Canyon Road, where Rainier is mirrored in the water when there is no wind.
- Narada Falls: a 50-metre drop, a short, steep path from the car park on the Paradise road.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Memaloose State Park east of Hood River, between the railway line and the river: full-hookup and electric sites, restrooms with showers, dump station. Access is only possible from the east, via the westbound I-84 rest area. Closer to town: Viento State Park west of Hood River, with electricity and showers, but noisy from the interstate and freight trains. Both open seasonally, booking via Oregon State Parks.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Mount Hood National Forest south of Hood River, dispersed camping is allowed along many forest roads unless signed otherwise. In the Gorge itself (National Scenic Area) only at designated sites. Open fires are often banned completely in late summer.
- Insider tip for campers
- On summer weekends Paradise is full from mid-morning. The park recommends arriving before 7 am or after 4 pm. Sunrise Road was closed to vehicles after a wildfire in August 2026, and Carbon River and Mowich Lake can no longer be reached from SR-165 – check road status at nps.gov/mora. From 1 November, carrying snow chains is mandatory in the park.
6Stage 6: Hood River to Cannon Beach (approx. 260 km)
- The drive
- Downriver on I-84 to Exit 35, then onto the Historic Columbia River Highway: narrow, with tight curves, stone walls and small pull-offs at the waterfalls. From Troutdale back onto the interstate, through Portland and on US-26 through the coastal forest to the coast. About 3.5 hours plus the waterfalls.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Multnomah Falls: almost 190 metres in two tiers. The car park is at I-84 Exit 31, in the middle of the motorway; in 2026, timed-use permits were required from 22 May to 7 September.
- Vista House at Crown Point: a viewpoint high above the Gorge, with the view reaching far upriver.
- Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach: a 72-metre rock, with tide pools at low tide and puffins in early summer.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Nehalem Bay State Park on a sand spit between the Pacific and the bay, a good 20 kilometres south of Cannon Beach: sites with electricity and water, restrooms with showers, dump station. Reopened in summer 2025 after renovation. Alternative: Fort Stevens State Park near Astoria, one of the largest campgrounds in the West, with full hookups.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Tillamook State Forest along US-26 and OR-6, dispersed camping is allowed on Oregon Department of Forestry land unless signed otherwise, usually for up to 14 days. Sleeping in your vehicle is prohibited in Cannon Beach and at the beach car parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Historic Columbia River Highway is tight for large RVs and rigs with trailers; the pull-offs at Latourell and Wahkeena Falls are small. With a large vehicle, stay on I-84 to Exit 31 and visit only Multnomah Falls. The access road to Ecola State Park near Cannon Beach is a narrow forest road – with long vehicles, use the town car park instead.
7Stage 7: Cannon Beach to Portland (approx. 220 km)
- The drive
- North on US-101 via Seaside to Astoria at the mouth of the Columbia, then upriver on US-30: two lanes, partly with passing lanes, past timber ports, marshland and small towns. About 3 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Fort Stevens State Park: the wreck of the Peter Iredale, in the sand since 1906, and Second World War bunkers.
- Astoria Column: an observation tower above the river mouth and the Astoria-Megler Bridge.
- Fort Clatsop (Lewis and Clark National Historical Park): a replica of the expedition’s 1805/06 winter camp.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Portland has no state park campground within the city. The nearest public sites: Oxbow Regional Park east of Gresham on the Sandy River (a Metro park, simple forest sites without hookups) or L.L. Stub Stewart State Park on OR-47 near Buxton, with full-hookup sites and showers.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Within Portland city limits, sleeping in your vehicle on public streets is effectively not possible; the city enforces parking bans and time limits. Oregon’s interstate rest areas allow stays of up to 12 hours – a last resort, not a campsite.
- Insider tip for campers
- Empty your tanks before returning the vehicle: many petrol stations in the Portland area have dump stations, and sanidumps.com gives an overview. Self-service fuelling is now allowed in Oregon, but at some pumps an attendant still fills up for you – that is normal, and tipping is not customary.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In Washington and Oregon, dispersed camping in the national forests (Olympic, Gifford Pinchot, Mount Hood) is usually allowed for up to 14 days unless signed otherwise. In Olympic and Mount Rainier national parks, overnight stays are only permitted at campgrounds.
- In Washington, DNR land also allows dispersed camping and has simple free campgrounds, for which the Discover Pass is mandatory. Rest areas have a limit of 8 hours; in Oregon it is 12 hours within any 24-hour period.
- Cities such as Seattle, Portland and Cannon Beach prohibit sleeping in vehicles or limit parking time; violations mean a fine, and if in doubt you will be towed.
- In late summer, both states frequently impose fire bans (“burn bans”), which can also cover charcoal. Gas stoves are usually allowed – check the notices.
- Useful apps: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, Park4Night, plus Recreation.gov (national parks and Forest Service), Washington State Parks and Oregon State Parks for reservations.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations are found in many state parks (Memaloose, Nehalem Bay, Fort Stevens) and, in Olympic National Park, at Kalaloch and Mora (for a fee). At Cougar Rock on Mount Rainier the dump station is closed until further notice.
- Tap water is drinkable; the national park campgrounds have taps but no hookups at the sites. There is no dump facility at Hoh or at Heart O’ the Hills.
- Never let grey water run onto the ground or into streams; empty chemical toilets only at a dump station.
- Propane from U-Haul locations, propane dealers and some petrol stations. European gas bottles need an adapter and are often not refilled; rental RVs have built-in US tanks.
- Buy firewood locally: because of invasive pests, bringing wood from other regions is discouraged or prohibited.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- In Washington, vehicles towing a trailer are limited to 60 mph, even where cars may go faster. In Oregon, trucks and vehicles with trailers have lower limits on some interstate sections – watch the signs.
- On two-lane roads in both states, slow vehicles must pull over as soon as five or more vehicles are backed up behind them; the “Slow Vehicle Turnouts” are there for this.
- No low-emission zones. Tolls: in Seattle, the SR-520 bridge and the SR-99 tunnel (electronic, “Good To Go”, also by licence plate), and the ferries by length and height. In Oregon, the bridges over the Columbia at Cascade Locks (Bridge of the Gods) and Hood River charge tolls.
- Olympic and Mount Rainier are among the busiest national parks: since 2026, visitors without US residency have in some cases paid higher fees or surcharges – check current amounts on nps.gov. Oregon State Parks charge a day-use parking fee at more and more parks, with a surcharge for out-of-state visitors.
- The national park campgrounds on the Olympic Peninsula are mostly designed for 21 ft (6.4 m), with only a few sites taking 35 ft. Cougar Rock allows 35 ft for RVs and 27 ft for trailers – check the length of the specific site when booking.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- A truly waterproof rain jacket and hiking boots with a membrane – the Hoh Rain Forest gets more than 3 metres of precipitation a year, and it is wet even in summer.
- Moisture absorbers and microfibre cloths: in the coastal fog, windows and upholstery quickly steam up, and clothes hardly dry inside the camper.
- A tide table or tide app for Ruby Beach, Beach 4 and Haystack Rock – the tide cuts off stretches of beach.
- Binoculars for Roosevelt elk in the Hoh valley, marmots at Paradise, bald eagles on the coast and puffins at Haystack Rock.
- Levelling blocks and a long fresh-water hose: forest sites are often sloping, and the taps on national park campgrounds are far apart.
- Offline maps and printed reservations: there is no mobile signal in the Hoh valley, along long stretches of US-101 or in Mount Rainier National Park.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
