In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the ferry at Port aux Basques to the northern tip of Newfoundland: around 1,000 kilometres of west coast where moose stand at the roadside, icebergs drift past the fishing villages and the Vikings came ashore a thousand years ago.
The spirit of the route
Newfoundland begins with the smell of diesel and salt on the ferry deck and the first view of bare, green mountains above Port aux Basques. Then the island opens up. The Trans-Canada Highway runs through the Codroy Valley with its hay meadows beneath the table mountains, past Corner Brook to the Humber River, and at Deer Lake Route 430 branches off to the north. In Gros Morne the Earth’s mantle lies exposed as a rust-brown desert, the Tablelands, and at Western Brook Pond waterfalls plunge over rock walls into the still fjord water. After that the coast turns bleak: limestone ledges, wind-bent tuckamore spruce, woodpiles at the roadside, fishing sheds with lobster pots. From your sliding door you look out over the Gulf of St. Lawrence and, on clear days, across to Labrador. Right up at the top, at L’Anse aux Meadows, the Vikings’ sod houses stand in the grass, and in early summer an iceberg drifts into the bay.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: North Sydney, NS to Port aux Basques (approx. 10 km)
- The drive
- Getting there by ferry: Marine Atlantic connects North Sydney on Cape Breton with Channel-Port aux Basques daily all year round, about 178 kilometres across the Cabot Strait in roughly 7 hours. There are day and night crossings; on a night crossing a cabin or a reserved seat is worth it. The fare depends on vehicle length – measured including bike rack, tow bar and trailer. Book early in summer, as motorhome spaces are often sold out weeks in advance. From the ramp it is only about 10 kilometres to your first pitch.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Arriving in Port aux Basques: colourful wooden houses on bare rock above the harbour, with the treeless slopes of the Long Range Mountains behind.
- Cape Ray with its lighthouse and sandy beach at the edge of J.T. Cheeseman Provincial Park, a good first walk after the crossing.
- The view from the ferry deck as you enter the harbour – in clear weather, go outside early.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: J.T. Cheeseman Provincial Park near Cape Ray, about 10 km from the ferry terminal: 75 pitches in the woods, 22 of them with electricity (15/30/50 A), showers and coin-operated washing machines in the washroom building, dump station, water taps on site. 2026 season from 15 May to 14 September. Book via nlcamping.ca (ParksNL reservation system) or by phone.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Overnighting in your vehicle is not permitted at the ferry terminal or in the centre of Port aux Basques. If you arrive early in the morning after a night ferry and only need sleep, it is best to drive straight on to the provincial park or to one of the gravel parking areas on the highway further north – but never stand in driveways or in front of barriers.
- Insider tip for campers
- Newfoundland has its own time zone: Newfoundland Time is half an hour ahead of Nova Scotia’s Atlantic Time (UTC−2:30 in summer). Timetables always apply in local time. Propane must be declared at check-in, the valves stay closed during the crossing and the cylinders get a tag; the number and size of cylinders is limited – current rules at marineatlantic.ca. The vehicle deck is closed during the crossing: take medication, a jacket and provisions with you beforehand. Pets only under the shipping line’s rules; book pet-friendly cabins early.
2Stage 2: Port aux Basques to Barachois Pond Provincial Park (approx. 180 km)
- The drive
- North on the Trans-Canada Highway (Route 1), first through the Wreckhouse, an exposed stretch between Cape Ray and the Codroy Valley beneath the Long Range Mountains. In a southeast wind, gusts well over 100 km/h come down onto the road here – they used to throw railway trains off the tracks, and today lorries still blow over from time to time. After that the Codroy Valley opens up with pastures and river estuaries. Continue on the TCH, two lanes with passing lanes, to the park turn-off near the junction with Route 480. About 2 hours of pure driving time, half a day with the detour into the Codroy Valley.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Codroy Valley: take Route 406 to the lighthouse at Cape Anguille, the westernmost point of Newfoundland, and to the estuary of the Grand Codroy River, a resting place for migratory birds.
- The Anguille Mountains and the flat-topped Table Mountain above the valley, visible from the highway in the morning light.
- Erin Mountain Trail in Barachois Pond Provincial Park: about 3.5 km to the summit, moderate to difficult, roughly 3 hours there and back, with a view over lakes and the highlands at the top.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Barachois Pond Provincial Park on a 9 km-long lake, about 20 km from Stephenville: 150 unserviced pitches in the woods (no electricity), showers and coin-operated washing machines, dump station, two swimming beaches, canoeing waters. 2026 season from 15 May to 14 September; can be reserved via nlcamping.ca.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Newfoundland has a lot of Crown land (provincial land). Short, low-impact overnighting there is widely customary and tolerated, and a permit for a single night is generally not required – but there are no uniform fixed rules on length of stay. In the Codroy Valley the land along the roads is mostly private; ask at farms before you park.
- Insider tip for campers
- Before driving through the Wreckhouse, check the wind warnings on 511nl.ca and weather.gc.ca; Environment Canada issues separate wind warnings for the Wreckhouse, and there are electronic warning signs on the highway. Tall motorhomes, high-roof vans and combinations with trailers are better off waiting in Port aux Basques or at the provincial park when a warning is in force. Close the awning and roof vents before setting off.
3Stage 3: Barachois Pond to Blow Me Down Provincial Park (Bay of Islands) (approx. 130 km)
- The drive
- Back onto the TCH and through the valley of Harry’s River to Corner Brook, the island’s second-largest city, with its paper mill on the Humber Arm. Then on Route 450 along the south shore of the Humber Arm to the west: winding, repeatedly on steep slopes above the fjord, through small fishing villages as far as Lark Harbour. A good 2 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Viewpoint at the Captain Cook Monument on Crow Hill in Corner Brook: a view over the city, the harbour and the Humber Arm; James Cook charted this coast in the 1760s.
- Bottle Cove near Lark Harbour: a pebble beach between steep cliffs, with a view of the islands of the Bay of Islands in the evening.
- Hiking trails in Blow Me Down Provincial Park: the Lark Harbour Head Trail (about 5 km there and back, moderate) to viewpoints above the bay, and the short Look-out Trail to the “Governor’s Staircase”, which leads down through old volcanic rock to a pebble beach.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Blow Me Down Provincial Park in Lark Harbour: 28 unserviced pitches (no electricity) on a small peninsula, washroom building with showers, water taps on site, laundry, dump station. 2026 season from 29 May to 14 September, can be reserved via nlcamping.ca. The large pitches are scarce – with long vehicles, check the pitch length when booking.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): There are a few gravel and hardstanding areas along Route 450, but many belong to the municipalities or are private property. In Corner Brook itself, overnighting in public car parks is not permitted; a few large supermarkets tolerate one night only after you ask.
- Insider tip for campers
- Corner Brook is the best place to stock up before Gros Morne and the north: large supermarkets, DIY stores, workshops and propane dealers. Route 450 is a dead end; to continue, you return on the same road to Corner Brook.
4Stage 4: Lark Harbour to Trout River (Gros Morne National Park) (approx. 175 km)
- The drive
- Via Corner Brook onto the TCH and along the Humber River and Deer Lake to the town of Deer Lake, where Route 430 – the Viking Trail – branches off to the north. At Wiltondale you reach Gros Morne National Park; here take Route 431 west, over hills and along Bonne Bay through Glenburnie and Woody Point to the Tablelands and the fishing village of Trout River. Route 431 has some steep climbs and descents. About 2.5 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Tablelands: a piece of the Earth’s mantle that was pushed to the surface during mountain building – rust-brown peridotite rock on which almost nothing grows. The Tablelands Trail leads about 4 km there and back, almost level, into a high valley. The reason Gros Morne has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987.
- Discovery Centre near Woody Point with an exhibition on the park’s geology (summer 2026 daily 9 am–5 pm, shorter hours in the shoulder season).
- Trout River: wooden houses and fishing sheds at the end of the road, a shoreline trail along the coast and the fjord-like Trout River Pond right behind the village.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Trout River Campground on Trout River Pond: 38 unserviced pitches, showers with hot water, flush toilets, kitchen shelter, but no dump station. If you need to empty tanks: Lomond Campground on Route 431 on the shore of Bonne Bay (36 unserviced pitches, dump station, showers). 2026 season for both from 22 May to 28 September; reservations via reservation.pc.gc.ca or 1-877-737-3783.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the national park, overnighting is allowed only at the campgrounds, including at viewpoint and trailhead car parks. Outside the park, on Route 430 between Deer Lake and Wiltondale, there are gravel areas and old gravel pits on Crown land that campers use – never at barriers, forest-road entrances or on private land.
- Insider tip for campers
- The entry ticket for Gros Morne is available at the kiosk in Wiltondale (staffed until 1 October in 2026) or at the visitor centre. From 19 June to 7 September 2026, entry was free with the Canada Strong Pass; after that the regular prices apply again – check current amounts at parks.canada.ca. Deer Lake is the last town with a wide choice before the north: fill up on fuel and shop. An alternative for the night north of Deer Lake: Sir Richard Squires Memorial Provincial Park at Big Falls on the Humber River, where salmon leap in summer (2026 season only until 7 September).
5Stage 5: Trout River to Green Point (approx. 120 km)
- The drive
- On Route 431 back to Wiltondale and on Route 430 through the valley up to Bonne Bay and on to Rocky Harbour. The road is well built, with some long gradients. Beyond Rocky Harbour it runs north across the flat coastal plain between the Gulf and the Long Range Mountains. Just under 2 hours of driving time, with a detour to Norris Point.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Norris Point: a view across Bonne Bay and the Tablelands ridge on the other side; the spur road is short and steep.
- Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse near Rocky Harbour with an exhibition on fishing (2026 from 15 May to 12 October, 9 am–5 pm; the grounds are open all year), the best place in the park for sunset over the Gulf.
- Green Point: steeply tilted rock layers on the coast where geologists worldwide have fixed the boundary between the Cambrian and Ordovician. Accessible at low tide, keep an eye on the incoming tide.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Green Point Campground on a terrace directly above the sea: 33 pitches, 8 of them with water and electricity, showers, flush toilets, kitchen shelter, dump station. Full 2026 season from 22 May to 28 September (reservable); the only campground in the park open all year, but outside the season only with self-registration, without running water and with pit toilets. Berry Hill near Rocky Harbour offers more hook-ups: 69 pitches in the woods, 25 with water and electricity, showers, dump station (2026 season until 28 September).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the national park, camping is restricted to campgrounds. The enclave communities such as Rocky Harbour and Cow Head lie outside the park boundaries, but their car parks are not intended for overnighting.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Rocky Harbour there is a supermarket, a petrol station and laundries, plus the park’s visitor centre, open all year (9 am–5 pm in peak season). Pick up trail information there – the Gros Morne Mountain Trail, for example, is closed in early summer to protect the vegetation, so check its status locally. On the coastal plain, moose like to step out of the forest straight onto the carriageway.
6Stage 6: Green Point to River of Ponds (approx. 135 km)
- The drive
- Route 430 runs north between the sea and the mountains, with dead-straight stretches alternating with crests and stream bridges. Beyond Cow Head it leaves the national park, and from then on the coast becomes flatter and emptier: bogs, low tuckamore forest, fishing villages 20 to 40 kilometres apart. Without a boat tour, 2 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Western Brook Pond: a fjord cut off from the sea between vertical rock walls. From the car park on Route 430 (27 km north of Rocky Harbour) a flat gravel path leads about 3 km in 45 minutes to the dock; the boat tour takes about 2 hours. Book tickets online in advance with the operator BonTours; cancellations are possible in bad weather.
- Shallow Bay near Cow Head: a long sandy beach with dunes, behind it the little theatre-festival town of Cow Head on a peninsula.
- The Arches Provincial Park: limestone arches carved out by the sea right on the pebble beach, a day-use stop without camping, good for a lunch break.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: River of Ponds Campground on the shore of River of Ponds Lake: privately run, 65 pitches, 51 of them with water and electricity, showers, laundry, dump station, small shop. Season until about mid-September, phone beforehand. If you would rather stay in the national park: Shallow Bay Campground near Cow Head (62 pitches, 11 of them with water and electricity, showers, dump station, 2026 season until 28 September).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): North of the national park, many campers use the gravel pits and gravel lay-bys along Route 430 on Crown land. This is common in Newfoundland and is tolerated as long as you do not block access tracks, leave no rubbish and do not light a fire when there is a fire risk. You will find entries and experiences on iOverlander and Park4Night.
- Insider tip for campers
- Go to Western Brook Pond early in the morning: the first tour is usually quieter, and the car park has only a few long spaces. Allow about 4 hours for the walk out and back and the tour, plus a rain jacket and insect repellent. From Cow Head, petrol stations are sometimes far apart – fill up once you are at half a tank; small stations often close early in the evening and on Sundays.
7Stage 7: River of Ponds to Pistolet Bay Provincial Park (approx. 230 km)
- The drive
- Continue on Route 430 via Hawke’s Bay to the turn-off for Port au Choix, then always along the Strait of Belle Isle to the north, with Labrador on the horizon. At St. Barbe the ferry to Labrador departs. Shortly before St. Anthony, Route 436 branches off to L’Anse aux Meadows, and after a few kilometres Route 437 to Raleigh leaves it. The road is quiet, windy and often in fog. Just under 3 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Port au Choix National Historic Site: a burial ground of the Maritime Archaic culture, about 4,000 years old, and the settlement remains of the Dorset culture at Phillip’s Garden, reached by a coastal path across limestone heath to the lighthouse at Point Riche. Allow about 2 hours.
- Thrombolites at Flower’s Cove: cushion-shaped limestone structures built by microbes in the shore zone, seen from a short boardwalk.
- Optionally, the ferry from St. Barbe to Blanc-Sablon (Québec) and along the Labrador Coastal Drive to Red Bay, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Basque whalers – with an overnight stop in Pinware River Provincial Park (2026 season until 14 September).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Pistolet Bay Provincial Park on Route 437 near Raleigh: 30 unserviced pitches in the woods (no electricity), also suitable for larger motorhomes, showers, coin-operated washing machines, kitchen shelter, dump station. 2026 season from 29 May to 14 September, can be reserved via nlcamping.ca. The park is the nearest public campground to L’Anse aux Meadows.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around L’Anse aux Meadows and in St. Anthony, many parking areas are signed “No Overnight Parking”. There are gravel areas on Crown land along Route 430/437; the bogs behind them are soft, so do not drive off the road.
- Insider tip for campers
- The St. Barbe – Blanc-Sablon ferry (MV Qajaq W, about 1 hour 45 minutes) is operated by Labrador Marine; be sure to reserve and check the seasonal timetable. Note: Blanc-Sablon is in Québec, which uses Atlantic Time all year, whereas the places on the Labrador Coastal Drive use Newfoundland Time – a difference of 1.5 hours in summer. In Port au Choix and Port Saunders there are supermarkets and petrol stations.
8Stage 8: Pistolet Bay to St. Anthony (L’Anse aux Meadows) (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- On Route 436 to the northernmost point of the island: L’Anse aux Meadows, then back along the coast via St. Lunaire-Griquet to St. Anthony, the main town of the Great Northern Peninsula. Short, quiet stretches across open heath and through fishing villages. It is about 450 km back to Deer Lake on Route 430, and a further 270 km or so to Port aux Basques – allow two to three days for the return, or use the weather you missed on the way up.
- Highlights & must-sees
- L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site (UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1978): the only confirmed Viking settlement in North America, built around the year 1000. Reconstructed sod houses with costumed interpreters, plus the foundations in the grass and a coastal trail. 2026 from 1 June to 2 October daily 9 am–5 pm, allow at least 3 hours.
- Icebergs and whales: the icebergs from Greenland usually drift through the bays around St. Anthony from May to June, sometimes into July; humpback and minke whales are common in summer. Current iceberg sightings at icebergfinder.com.
- Fishing Point in St. Anthony: a lighthouse on the cliff above the harbour entrance, steps up the hill and a view of the open sea; in town, the Grenfell Historic Properties commemorate the mission doctor Wilfred Grenfell.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: A second night in Pistolet Bay Provincial Park (about 25 kilometres from St. Anthony). In St. Anthony itself there are only private campgrounds. For the return south: Berry Hill or Green Point in Gros Morne National Park, about 5 hours’ drive away.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Burnt Cape Ecological Reserve near Raleigh is a protected area for rare limestone plants: on foot in daytime only, no overnighting, no picking plants. Overnighting is also prohibited on the grounds of the National Historic Site.
- Insider tip for campers
- St. Anthony is the last major supply point in the north: supermarket, petrol stations, hospital. Fill up here and empty your tanks at the provincial park before you set off on the long return drive. Plan the return to Deer Lake for daylight only.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In Gros Morne National Park and the National Historic Sites, overnighting is allowed only at designated campgrounds, including at viewpoint and trailhead car parks. Park rangers carry out checks.
- Newfoundland has a lot of Crown land. Short, low-impact overnighting on gravel areas and old pits is common and tolerated; there are no uniform fixed rules on length of stay. Check that the area is not private or municipal land, do not block forest roads and driveways, and do not drive into soft bogs.
- Wildfire season: on the island from 1 May to 30 September. Open fires are then strictly regulated, and in dry conditions the province imposes fire bans (in 2026 a province-wide ban applied from 8 to 17 July). Current situation at gov.nl.ca (Daily Wildfire Risk); violations are punished with fines.
- Many towns, harbours and viewpoints are signed “No Overnight Parking”. A few large supermarkets in Corner Brook, Deer Lake or St. Anthony tolerate one night, only after asking.
- Useful apps: iOverlander, Park4Night and Campendium. Bookings via reservation.pc.gc.ca (Gros Morne) and nlcamping.ca (ParksNL). The provincial parks close early: in 2026 almost all on 14 September, Sir Richard Squires as early as 7 September; the seasonal campgrounds in Gros Morne on 28 September.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations: in Gros Morne at Berry Hill, Green Point, Lomond and Shallow Bay (not Trout River), at almost all provincial parks with a campground, and at some petrol stations and private campgrounds. A fee may apply for day visitors.
- Drinking water: in many small Newfoundland communities, permanent or temporary “Boil Water Advisories” apply. Precautionary boil-water notices also hang at the taps in the provincial parks, because the water there is not chlorinated. Read the notices at the taps and boil drinking water or carry it separately.
- Never drain grey water onto the ground or into ditches, and empty chemical toilets only at dump stations. Take rubbish with you to the next station – foxes and gulls raid open bags.
- Propane: refill stations at propane dealers and some petrol stations in Port aux Basques, Stephenville, Corner Brook, Deer Lake and St. Anthony. Only North American-certified cylinders (TC/DOT) within their inspection period are filled, not European cylinders. On the Marine Atlantic ferry, propane must be declared.
- Fuel: north of Gros Morne, petrol stations are sometimes far apart and close early in the evening. Rule of thumb: fill up at half a tank, especially before the drive back from St. Anthony.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits (Highway Traffic Act): 50 km/h in built-up areas, 100 km/h on the Trans-Canada Highway, 80 km/h on other paved rural roads such as Route 430, 60 km/h on gravel – unless signed otherwise. The signs are binding.
- Moose: well over 100,000 moose live on the island. More than 70% of collisions happen from May to October, most of them between dusk and dawn. Do not drive at night, watch for warning signs, use full beam when there is no oncoming traffic, and scan both sides of the road.
- Weather: Wreckhouse winds on the TCH north of Port aux Basques (warnings on 511nl.ca), dense coastal fog especially in early summer. In fog, drive with dipped headlights and reduce speed drastically.
- No tolls, no low-emission zones. The ferries to Newfoundland (Marine Atlantic) and to Labrador (Labrador Marine) are fare-paying and should be reserved. Turning right on red is permitted after a full stop unless a sign prohibits it; traffic in both directions stops for school buses with flashing red lights; using a phone at the wheel is prohibited.
- Dimensions: Route 430 is paved throughout and suitable for large motorhomes; tight spots are more likely in village centres and on spur roads (Norris Point, Lark Harbour). The car parks at Western Brook Pond and L’Anse aux Meadows have only a few long spaces – arrive early.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Head net and insect repellent: blackflies and mosquitoes are fierce in June and July in the forests and bogs of the Great Northern Peninsula.
- A windproof, waterproof jacket and a fleece: at the northern end and in fog it is often only 10 to 15 °C even in July, and the wind hardly lets up.
- Binoculars for icebergs, humpback whales and moose at the edge of the forest – the animals and the ice are often far out.
- Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots: scree in the Tablelands, wet boardwalks at Western Brook Pond and sharp-edged limestone at Port au Choix and Green Point.
- Offline maps and printed reservations (ferry, campgrounds, boat tour): north of Gros Morne there is no signal over long stretches.
- Levelling ramps and water containers: many pitches slope, and because of boil-water advisories it is worth keeping a supply of clean water.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
