In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the ferry at Souris to the sand spit of Havre-Aubert: a chain of islands in the middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, where you have wind, salt and sand in the vehicle and beaches almost to yourself.
The spirit of the route
The Îles de la Madeleine lie in the middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, closer to Prince Edward Island than to Québec, and yet they feel like a world of their own. The crossing from Souris takes a good five hours, and if you stand on deck you see first gulls, then water, then red cliffs. The islands are joined by narrow strips of sand and dunes, and Route 199 runs on causeways between the lagoon and the open sea, with the Gulf crashing on the left and the still water of the lagoon on the right. The houses are painted in bright colours, wind turbines stand in the fields, and lobster boats wait in the harbours. In the evening the vehicle smells of salt, fish and smoke from the smokehouses, and the wind rattles the high roof. The islands are small, the roads short, the distances slight; the route rewards a relaxed approach, cycling and long beach walks, but it demands planning: ferry reservation, wind forecast and few pitches.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Souris (Prince Edward Island) to Cap-aux-Meules (approx. 190 km)
- The drive
- After arriving via Charlottetown, take Rte 2 east to Souris: the CTMA ferry to Cap-aux-Meules leaves from there, a crossing of a good five hours. Vehicles must be reserved in advance, and in summer slots are scarce; give the length and height when booking and allow for surcharges for large motorhomes. On board there are lounges, food and, depending on the ship, cabins; check the timetable and season before the trip, as the service does not run daily all year. Cap-aux-Meules has fuel stations, a supermarket, waste disposal and cash machines.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Crossing Souris – Cap-aux-Meules: The ferry travels through the Northumberland Strait into the Gulf; in clear visibility you can see the red cliffs of the islands long before arrival. Seasickness is possible in wind, so plan for medication in advance.
- Cap-aux-Meules: Main town and ferry port on the island of the same name; the “Butte du Vent” viewpoint above the harbour and small shops, cafés and fish sales. Opening hours are seasonal.
- First beach walks on the east coast of Cap-aux-Meules: Red sandstone rocks and the sea in sight; only use paths where signed, and keep away from cliff edges.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: There are several private campgrounds on the islands, including Camping Plage de l’Est in Havre-aux-Maisons on the beach; more campgrounds on Grosse-Île, Havre-Aubert, Fatima and Étang-du-Nord. Check names, opening times and facilities with Tourisme Îles de la Madeleine; reserve early in July and August, and after mid-September many campgrounds close. Hook-ups and site sizes vary, so give your vehicle length when booking.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Camping outside designated campgrounds is not permitted on the islands: beaches and dunes are protected, and overnighting in the vehicle on beaches, in harbours and in car parks is prohibited and penalised. There is no legal free camping for campers; never walk on the dunes, because they hold the islands together.
- Insider tip for campers
- Buy fresh water, gas and groceries in Cap-aux-Meules: prices on the islands are often higher than on the mainland because of ferry transport, so stock up beforehand. Book ferry tickets in good time and reserve the return crossing at the same time, otherwise you can get stranded. Before the crossing, check your gas cylinders and propane certification: the shipping line’s safety rules apply during loading.
2Stage 2: Cap-aux-Meules to Grande-Entrée (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Cap-aux-Meules, take Rte 199 north-east via Havre-aux-Maisons, then across the causeway to Grosse-Île and on to Grande-Entrée. The road runs on causeways between the lagoon and the Gulf, flat, mostly 70 to 90 km/h and 50 in the villages. Pure driving time is around an hour, half a day with stops. The wind can be very strong on the causeways, so drive high vehicles carefully; there are fuel stations only in Cap-aux-Meules and a few villages.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Dune landscape on the east coast: Long, pale sandy beaches with dunes, marram grass and seabirds, especially quiet in the morning. Walk only on designated paths and do not step on the dune vegetation.
- Havre-aux-Maisons: Coloured houses, beaches and shops with regional products such as smoked fish, cheese and beer; opening hours are seasonal, so check parking for large vehicles.
- Grande-Entrée: Fishing harbour in the north with lobster boats and a view of the lagoon; the harbour is a workplace, so only park vehicles in signed car parks and do not block harbour facilities.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Havre-aux-Maisons, Camping Plage de l’Est lies directly on the beach with a view of dunes and the Gulf; ask in advance about facilities, hook-ups and vehicle lengths, and reserve in summer. More private campgrounds on Grosse-Île and near Havre-aux-Maisons; check names with Tourisme Îles de la Madeleine. After mid-September many are closed.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping on the islands: dunes, beaches and harbours are protected or in municipal hands, and overnighting in the vehicle outside campgrounds is prohibited. Municipalities and the police carry out checks; if you are checked, stay cooperative.
- Insider tip for campers
- Look at the wind forecast and do not drive on the causeways in a storm; tall motorhomes react sensitively to crosswinds. A bicycle is ideal on the islands: the distances are short and flat, but a headwind can be tiring. If you bring bicycles, you need a secure carrier and a lock.
3Stage 3: Grande-Entrée to Havre-Aubert (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- Back on Rte 199 south-west via Havre-aux-Maisons, Cap-aux-Meules, Fatima and Bassin to Havre-Aubert. Flat, 70 to 90 km/h and 50 in the villages; between the villages lagoon, dunes and fields alternate. Pure driving time is around an hour and a half, a whole day with stops. Between Cap-aux-Meules and Havre-Aubert there are viewpoints and several beach access roads, some of them narrow.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Dune du Sud near Havre-aux-Maisons: A long sandy beach with red cliffs in the background and gull colonies; viewpoints and paths are signed, and do not step on the dunes.
- Havre-Aubert, La Grave: A historic harbour quarter with timber houses, shops, restaurants and the museum on seafaring and fishing life; explore on foot, and opening hours are seasonal. Parking is scarce, so arrive early in the day with large vehicles.
- Sandy Hook Beach (Plage de la Grave) near Havre-Aubert: a wide beach that offers “singing sand” in wind; sandcastle festival in late summer, so check the date on site. Use the beach only where permitted.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: On Havre-Aubert, Bassin, Fatima and in the surrounding area there are several private campgrounds, some with electricity and water, some basic; check names, opening times and facilities with Tourisme Îles de la Madeleine and reserve in good time in summer. If you are arriving with a larger vehicle, clarify the site size and access in advance. After mid-September many campgrounds are closed.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping on the islands; beaches, dunes and harbours are protected, and overnighting in the vehicle outside campgrounds is prohibited. Use beach car parks only during the day and park your vehicle at a campground at night.
- Insider tip for campers
- An excursion to Île d’Entrée by boat from Cap-aux-Meules is worthwhile in calm weather; ask on site about the timetable and season, and the motorhome stays on the main island. Wind and sea state determine the dates; allow for a spare day and do not cut the ferry reservation to Souris too fine.
4Stage 4: Havre-Aubert to Cap-aux-Meules (return to Souris) (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Havre-Aubert, take Rte 199 north to Cap-aux-Meules and the ferry port, around 30 kilometres. Flat, 70 to 90 km/h and 50 in the villages; pure driving time is around 40 minutes. Drive to the ferry with plenty of margin: loading starts long before departure and the shipping line requires arrival at set times; have your ticket and vehicle details ready.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Last beach walks: Morning light on the red cliffs and dunes along the coast; time for photos, peace and a farewell to the islands. Keep away from cliff edges.
- Shopping for regional products before departure: Smoked fish, cheese, beer and crafts in shops and smokehouses; check the seasonal opening hours and keep provisions cool.
- Ferry crossing back to Souris: A good five hours at sea, and in clear visibility a sunset over the Gulf; warm clothing on deck.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: For the last night before the return, a campground near Cap-aux-Meules is a good choice so that the drive to the ferry stays short; check names and facilities with Tourisme Îles de la Madeleine and reserve. After arriving in Souris, Prince Edward Island has provincial parks and private campgrounds; Prince Edward Island routes are not part of this guide.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping on the islands; overnighting in the harbour car park before the ferry is only possible with the express permission of the shipping line or the harbour, and if in doubt, stay at a campground.
- Insider tip for campers
- Book the ferry reservation for the return crossing when you book the outward journey, and observe the shipping line’s check-in time. Before loading, check your tanks and close the gas valves, as the shipping line requires. In strong wind the ferry service can be cancelled; allow a buffer in your travel plan for the journey home and the return of a rental vehicle.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Free camping is not permitted on the Îles de la Madeleine: beaches, dunes and lagoons are protected, and overnighting in the vehicle on beaches, in harbours, on streets and in car parks is penalised. There is no legal wild camping for motorhomes; book pitches exclusively through campgrounds.
- Dunes are the backbone of the islands: marram grass holds the sand together, and walking outside the paths destroys the vegetation and can lead to fines. Stay on boardwalks and marked paths, and do not leave rubbish behind.
- Campfires only in the fire rings at campgrounds and only if no fire ban applies; wind carries sparks far, and dunes and marram grass burn easily. Check the current situation with SOPFEU or with the campground management.
- Apps and websites: iOverlander, Campendium, Park4Night and Tourisme Îles de la Madeleine for current campgrounds; the CTMA for ferry reservations. An offline map pack is worthwhile because mobile reception is in some places patchy.
- Wildlife: Harbour seals and grey seals lie on beaches and rocks; keep your distance and do not touch the animals; seabirds nest on the cliffs, so avoid cliff edges and nesting sites. Do not feed foxes or seabirds.
- Dogs are allowed on many beaches and in protected areas only on a lead or not at all; heed the signs and pick up dog mess.
- Weather and wind: Fog, wind and quickly changing weather are normal; take storm warnings from the shipping line and weather services seriously. In strong wind, do not drive high vehicles on the causeways.
- If you are checked, stay friendly, leave the site and do not get drawn into discussions about interpretation.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations are found at some campgrounds and in Cap-aux-Meules; ask Tourisme Îles de la Madeleine or the campground management for locations. Plan your waste disposal before the return crossing.
- Tap water from the mains is generally drinkable on the islands; campgrounds without a water connection require canisters. Use water sparingly, because the islands have limited groundwater resources.
- Never discharge grey water onto the ground, into dunes or into lagoons; empty chemical toilets only at dump stations.
- Propane at fuel stations and dealers in Cap-aux-Meules; European gas cylinders need an adapter and are usually not refilled. Check the gas level before the crossing, as the shipping line has safety rules for gas cylinders.
- Fuel: There are fuel stations in Cap-aux-Meules and some villages; prices are mostly higher than on the mainland. Filling up completely before the crossing is not automatically worthwhile, so compare prices.
- Shopping: Supermarkets in Cap-aux-Meules and Havre-aux-Maisons, small shops in the villages; regional products such as smoked fish, lobster in season, cheese and beer in shops and smokehouses. Opening hours are seasonal.
- Electricity: Campgrounds with hook-ups offer 15, 30 or 50 A at 120 V; rental motorhomes usually have the right cable. At campgrounds without a hook-up, plan on your leisure battery.
- Laundry and rubbish: Launderettes in Cap-aux-Meules; dispose of rubbish in the bins at campgrounds, and observe waste separation on the islands.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in km/h: Rte 199 mostly 70 to 90, in built-up areas 50, outside schools 30. Maximum vehicle height in Québec is 4.15 m; bridges and underpasses are signed. Drive more slowly in crosswinds on the causeways.
- Ferry: The CTMA connects Souris (Prince Edward Island) with Cap-aux-Meules; vehicles must be reserved in advance, the length and height must be given, and prices depend on vehicle size. Check the timetable, season, check-in times and gas requirements on ctma.ca before booking.
- Parks and entry fees: There is no Sépaq national park on the islands; nature reserves and beaches have their own rules, in some cases with an entry or parking fee. Heed the signs.
- Dimensions and lengths: Private campgrounds on the islands are in some cases small and access roads narrow; give your vehicle length and height when booking. Large motorhomes are restricted on small roads and in car parks.
- Reservations: Ferry and campgrounds with several months’ notice, especially in July and August; private campgrounds by phone or online. The season usually ends between mid-September and mid-October, and the ferry service is seasonal.
- Weather and season: Summer mild, with frequent wind and fog; storms are possible in autumn. High season is July and August, and the off-season is quieter, but many businesses close after mid-September.
- Traffic law: Turning right on red is permitted in Québec after coming to a complete stop, except in Montréal and where a sign prohibits it. Signs are in French; “ARRÊT” means stop. Mobile phones at the wheel only hands-free, open alcohol containers in the vehicle are prohibited, and seat belts and child seats are compulsory in motorhomes too. A German driving licence is sufficient for tourists.
- Entry: If you fly to Canada as a German citizen, you need an eTA (electronic travel authorisation); check the conditions beforehand on the website of the Canadian immigration authority. Sort out the rental motorhome, insurance and the ferry conditions for the vehicle in advance.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception is mostly available on the islands, but patchy. In wind and heavy seas allow for ferry cancellations, and keep water and provisions for one to two extra days in the vehicle.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Windproof jacket, hat and warm layers: there is almost always a wind on the islands, and it is cool on the ferry deck.
- Sand ladders or boards and levelling ramps for soft ground and sloping pitches on the beach.
- Bicycles with a lock and carrier: distances are short and flat, and this way you can reach beaches and villages without the vehicle.
- Binoculars and a camera with a telephoto lens for seals, seabirds and lobster boats.
- Water canisters (20 l) and a drinking-water-quality fresh water hose, plus provisions for one to two extra days in case of a ferry cancellation.
- Ferry documents, reservations and vehicle papers printed out, plus seasickness medication for the crossing of about five hours.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
