In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
Around 1,000 kilometres from the Hill Country to the Rio Grande: peaches from a farm stand in the morning, the Chisos Mountains in alpenglow in the evening and, at night, the darkest sky in the Lower 48.
The spirit of the route
This route loses something every day – traffic, greenery, mobile signal – and gains space in return. Beyond Austin the camper rolls through limestone hills with live oaks, vineyards and the German half-timbered houses of Fredericksburg. In November the bigtooth maples glow red in the canyons along the Sabinal River, as if a piece of New England had strayed into Texas. Then the landscape tips over: beyond Del Rio the Chihuahuan Desert begins, the Pecos cuts deep into the limestone, and under the rock overhangs of Seminole Canyon people painted shamanic figures thousands of years ago. On US 90 you pass more freight trains than cars for hours on end. In Big Bend you slide open the side door in the evening onto ocotillo, the scent of creosote and a silence in which you can hear the Rio Grande. A route for winter and spring, for full water tanks and plenty of time.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Austin to Fredericksburg (approx. 125 km)
- The drive
- West on US 290 via Dripping Springs and Johnson City: a wide, well-built road, gently rising and falling through limestone hills, wineries and peach orchards. Just under 2 hours of pure driving time; you avoid Austin’s rush hour on I-35 and MoPac by setting off before 7 am or after 9 am.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pedernales Falls State Park: the river tumbles over stepped limestone slabs; when a thunderstorm warning is issued, the riverbed is cleared immediately because of flash floods.
- Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park between Johnson City and Stonewall, with the birthplace, family cemetery and the ranch on the Pedernales, the “Texas White House”.
- Enchanted Rock State Natural Area 27 kilometres north of Fredericksburg: a pink granite dome with a panoramic view over the Llano Uplift from the Summit Trail.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Pedernales Falls State Park: pitches with water and electricity under junipers and oaks, washrooms with showers, dump station. In Fredericksburg itself: the municipal RV area in Lady Bird Johnson Municipal Park on Barons Creek, with hookups, a few minutes from Main Street. Book the state parks through the Texas Parks and Wildlife reservation system, up to five months in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Hill Country is almost entirely privately owned; there is no public land for dispersed camping here. The fences along the roads mean business: unauthorised entry is prosecuted in Texas as criminal trespass. Plan on established sites.
- Insider tip for campers
- Enchanted Rock regularly fills up at weekends and during the spring holidays, and park staff then close the entrance. Reserve your day pass online in advance and arrive early. For supplies, the Texan supermarket chain H-E-B in Fredericksburg is the last big selection before Kerrville.
2Stage 2: Fredericksburg to Lost Maples State Natural Area (approx. 120 km)
- The drive
- TX 16 to Kerrville, then TX 39 along the Guadalupe River via Ingram and Hunt: narrow, winding, with cypresses on the banks and several low-water crossings. Then south on RM 187 across a high plateau and down into the Sabinal valley. A good 2 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- The Guadalupe River between Ingram and Hunt: cypresses, gravel bars and clear water. The valley was hit hard by the flood disaster of July 2025 – be respectful at memorial sites.
- Stonehenge II in Ingram, a replica of the stone circle on the grounds of the Hill Country Arts Foundation.
- Lost Maples: the East Trail and West Trail to the viewpoint above Can Creek; the bigtooth maples usually change colour between late October and mid-November.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Lost Maples State Natural Area: 24 pitches with water and 30-amp electricity, covered picnic tables, washrooms with showers, dump station, no sewer hookups. The pitches are on the small side – for large motorhomes and long rigs, check the length listed for the specific site. An alternative with more room: Kerrville-Schreiner Park on the Guadalupe River, a municipal park with hookups.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The only legal options outside campgrounds here are the eight basic primitive sites in the Lost Maples backcountry, 1–5 kilometres on foot from the trailheads, with no water; register at headquarters. There is no free-camping option for vehicles.
- Insider tip for campers
- There is no mobile signal in Lost Maples, and Wi-Fi only at headquarters. During the autumn colours, weekends and pitches are booked up months in advance – come midweek and check the Texas Parks and Wildlife foliage report. Never drive through the low-water crossings on TX 39 in the rain: “Turn Around, Don’t Drown”.
3Stage 3: Lost Maples State Natural Area to Del Rio (approx. 215 km)
- The drive
- Via Vanderpool on RM 337 to Leakey – one of the “Twisted Sisters”, with steep ramps, tight bends and lots of motorcyclists. From Leakey take US 83 along the Frio River to Uvalde, then US 90 west through flat brush country via Brackettville. About 3 hours. Less demanding with a large motorhome or trailer: RM 187 via Utopia to Sabinal and join US 90 there.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Viewpoints on RM 337 between Vanderpool and Leakey, looking out over the wooded canyons of the Sabinal and Frio.
- Garner State Park near Concan: a swimming spot in the crystal-clear Frio River under cypresses, very busy in summer.
- Fort Clark in Brackettville, a former cavalry post with 19th-century limestone buildings.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Amistad National Recreation Area on the reservoir northwest of Del Rio: Governors Landing Campground with covered picnic tables and water taps, for vehicles up to 28 ft. Larger motorhomes are better off at San Pedro Campground (no water). No hookups, “first come, first served”, self-pay station. Campers can use the dump station at the Diablo East boat ramp on showing their camping receipt.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Amistad NRA, camping on the lakeshore outside the campgrounds is permitted as long as you stay at least a quarter of a mile (around 400 metres) from developed areas; solid human waste and toilet paper must be packed out. Many shoreline access points can only be reached by boat or over poor tracks, and the water level fluctuates widely and has recently been very low – ask park staff about current conditions.
- Insider tip for campers
- Del Rio is the last town with large supermarkets, cheap diesel and propane for the next few days – until Alpine or Fort Stockton there are only small shops along the route. Fill up completely here with fresh water, groceries and gas.
4Stage 4: Del Rio to Seminole Canyon State Park (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- West on US 90 over the bridges of Amistad Reservoir and through Comstock: two lanes, straight, hardly any traffic, a short stage. A good hour’s drive – plan the day around the guided tour in Seminole Canyon.
- Highlights & must-sees
- The Amistad National Recreation Area visitor centre on US 90, with an exhibition on Lower Pecos rock art.
- Fate Bell Shelter in Seminole Canyon: a huge rock overhang with thousands-of-years-old paintings in the Pecos River style, accessible only on a guided hike; the descent into the canyon is via steps.
- Pecos River High Bridge: from the rest area with viewpoint on the east bank you can see the road bridge high above the gorge, shortly before the river joins the Rio Grande.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Seminole Canyon State Park and Historic Site: pitches with water and electricity or water only, on an open plateau with desert views, washrooms with showers, dump station. Hardly any shade – an awning is worth its weight in gold here.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Between Del Rio and Langtry there is almost nothing but fenced ranch land; apart from the lakeshore of the Amistad NRA there is no legal free-camping option.
- Insider tip for campers
- Tours to Fate Bell Shelter run only at set times and places are limited; check times and reserve in advance through Texas State Parks. In summer, temperatures in the canyon climb well above 35 °C – take the earliest tour and plenty of water.
5Stage 5: Seminole Canyon State Park to Marathon (approx. 220 km)
- The drive
- The loneliest stretch of US 90: across the Pecos River High Bridge, past Langtry, then through wide desert grassland and mesas via Sanderson to Marathon. Long straights, little traffic, the Union Pacific tracks running alongside. Just under 3 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Langtry: the Judge Roy Bean Visitor Center with the restored “Jersey Lilly” saloon and a cactus garden; a short detour to the viewpoint above the Rio Grande.
- Post Park (Camp Peña Colorado) a few kilometres south of Marathon: a Brewster County park by a spring-fed pond under cottonwoods, once an army post, today a stopover for migrating birds and picnickers.
- The historic Gage Hotel of 1927 in Marathon and the night sky above the town – barely any light pollution.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: There are no public campgrounds in or around Marathon, only private RV parks with hookups on the edge of town – book ahead by phone in high season. If you would rather stay on public land, drive on the same day – it is around 65 kilometres to the park boundary at Persimmon Gap – and use a primitive roadside site (see stage 6).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The ranch land along US 90 and US 385 is private and fenced. The only larger public area nearby is the Black Gap Wildlife Management Area east of the national park: access and basic camps on the Rio Grande only with a Texas Public Hunting Permit or Limited Public Use Permit, registration at headquarters, tracks only for high-clearance vehicles, no facilities, regular closures for hunts – call the management office beforehand.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up in Del Rio and in Sanderson; between the towns there are hardly any filling stations and long stretches without signal. The choice in Marathon is small – you should already have bought your main supplies for Big Bend in Del Rio.
6Stage 6: Marathon to Big Bend National Park – Rio Grande Village (approx. 140 km)
- The drive
- South on US 385 across the Marathon basin, into the national park at Persimmon Gap and on via Panther Junction down to the Rio Grande. Well built, with a few dips where water and mud can collect after thunderstorms. Around 2 hours, dropping from over 1,200 to just under 600 metres.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Fossil Discovery Exhibit between Persimmon Gap and Panther Junction: Cretaceous fossils, including the pterosaur Quetzalcoatlus.
- Boquillas Canyon Trail: a short path to the mouth of the canyon, where the Rio Grande disappears between limestone walls.
- Hot Springs Historic District with the hot spring right on the river – the narrow, unpaved access road is unsuitable for motorhomes and trailers, so park some distance away or come in a small vehicle.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Rio Grande Village Campground (NPS) under cottonwoods by the river: drinking water, toilets, dump station, generators only in designated areas between 8 am and 8 pm. Right next door is a concessioner’s Rio Grande Village RV Park with full hookups, showers and a shop at the filling station. Reserve through Recreation.gov and book early from November to April; in summer it is extremely hot down here.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Big Bend has primitive roadside campsites along gravel tracks, for example on Old Ore Road or near Government Spring. You need a backcountry permit for these (Recreation.gov up to 180 days in advance, or on site at Panther Junction up to 24 hours beforehand, fee per night); many tracks require high clearance or four-wheel drive. Overnighting at the roadside is prohibited in the park.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Boquillas Crossing port of entry near Rio Grande Village is open only on certain days of the week – check the hours beforehand and bring your passport. Visitors not resident in the US should check in advance whether their ESTA or visa covers re-entry. Fuel in the park is available at Panther Junction and Rio Grande Village.
7Stage 7: Rio Grande Village to Chisos Basin and Santa Elena Canyon (approx. 150 km)
- The drive
- Via Panther Junction up into the Chisos Basin at 1,600 metres: steep ramps and tight hairpins, and trailers over 20 ft and motorhomes over 24 ft are explicitly not recommended. Then down the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to the Rio Grande at Castolon, paved and passable for all vehicles, with striking colour changes in the volcanic rock. Around 3 hours of driving time, better spread over two days.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Window Trail or Lost Mine Trail in the Chisos Basin – from the ridge, the Lost Mine Trail looks out over Juniper Canyon as far as Mexico; head for the car park early in the morning.
- Sotol Vista, Mule Ears Viewpoint and Tuff Canyon on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive.
- Santa Elena Canyon Trail: the rock walls rise around 450 metres sheer from the river; the Terlingua Creek crossing at the start can be muddy or flooded after rain.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Chisos Basin Campground (NPS) with views of Casa Grande and Emory Peak: drinking water, toilets, bear boxes, by reservation only through Recreation.gov, generators only at set times, small uneven pitches. The two-year closure for rebuilding announced for 2026 was cancelled in April 2026 – still check the current status before you set off. Down by the river: Cottonwood Campground near Castolon under cottonwoods, no hookups, no generators, but the quietest nights in the park.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Primitive roadside sites on Old Maverick Road or River Road with a backcountry permit; the tracks are washboarded, impassable after rain and in places suitable only for four-wheel-drive vehicles. Outside the park, Big Bend Ranch State Park on FM 170 offers more basic sites, also with a permit.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Chisos Basin water system dates from the 1950s and 1960s; after a pump failure in late 2025, water had to be trucked in for weeks. Arrive with a full fresh-water tank. Since 2026, visitors not resident in the US pay surcharges and higher annual pass prices at some national parks – check current rates on nps.gov.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Around 95 per cent of Texas is private land. Dispersed camping like on BLM land in the western US practically does not exist on this route; unauthorised entry onto ranch land is prosecuted as criminal trespass.
- You can stay overnight legally in state parks, in the Amistad NRA (including on the lakeshore, subject to distance rules) and in Big Bend at campgrounds or primitive roadside sites with a backcountry permit. Wildlife management areas such as Black Gap only with the appropriate permit.
- TxDOT rest areas are for resting; the length of stay is limited by signs, and tents and setting up camp are prohibited. Overnighting in supermarket car parks is handled differently from store to store – ask inside first.
- Apps: iOverlander, Campendium and The Dyrt for site descriptions, Recreation.gov for federal land, the Texas Parks and Wildlife reservation system for the state parks. Offline maps are essential; from Kerrville onwards coverage becomes patchy.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations in almost all state parks along the route, in the Amistad NRA (Diablo East, with camping receipt) and in Big Bend at Rio Grande Village and in the Chisos Basin; overview at sanidumps.com.
- Tap water is drinkable. In Big Bend water is scarce and the supply prone to failure – drive in with a full tank and carry extra containers as well.
- Never drain grey water onto the ground, not even in the desert; empty chemical toilets only at dump stations.
- Propane in Austin, Kerrville and Del Rio from propane dealers or U-Haul locations; not reliably available in the national park. European gas bottles are usually not refilled; rental motorhomes have built-in US tanks.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Texas has no separate speed limit for motorhomes or trailers; the posted limits apply, up to 75 mph on highways in the west and up to 80 mph on parts of the interstates. In the national park a maximum of 45 mph, often less – watch for javelinas and deer crossing, especially at dusk.
- No low-emission zones. Around Austin there are toll roads (such as SH 130, SH 45, 183A and the MoPac Express Lanes) without toll booths: payment by TxTag or, more expensively, by bill sent to the registered plate – with rental vehicles, check the rental company’s toll arrangements or avoid the toll roads.
- Border Patrol checkpoints are set up on roads leading inland from the Rio Grande. Always carry your passport and proof of entry; officers may also look inside the living area.
- Chisos Basin Road: trailers over 20 ft and motorhomes over 24 ft not recommended. The access road to Hot Springs is unsuitable for motorhomes and trailers; many pitches in Lost Maples and in the Basin are short and uneven.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Extra water containers holding at least 20 litres – in Big Bend the supply can fail, and on hikes you will need more than you think.
- A reflective windscreen cover and a sturdy awning: the sites at Seminole Canyon and on the Rio Grande have hardly any shade.
- Compressor, tyre repair kit and a fully inflated spare – gravel tracks, lechuguilla and cactus spines, hundreds of kilometres to the nearest garage.
- Red-light head torch and binoculars: Big Bend is an International Dark Sky Park, and red light disturbs neither your neighbours’ eyes nor the wildlife.
- Passport and entry documents in a folder within easy reach – for the Border Patrol checkpoints and the Boquillas crossing.
- Satellite messenger or emergency beacon: there is no mobile signal in Lost Maples, along US 90 or in most of the national park.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
