In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
Six national parks in ten days: from the neon lights of Las Vegas via Zion, Bryce and Moab to the rim of the Grand Canyon.
The spirit of the route
Six in the morning, sliding door open: the rock walls in Zion glow orange before the sun has even cleared the canyon. This loop is a journey through the Earth’s history. You follow the Virgin River through red sandstone gorges, stand among the orange hoodoos of Bryce at 2,700 metres and balance along Byway 12 on a ridge with drop-offs to the left and right. In Moab, rock arches span the sky; in Monument Valley, the mesas seem to rise out of nowhere. In between lie endless dirt roads, pinyon pines, juniper and the smell of warm stone after a thunderstorm. At night it is so dark that the Milky Way casts shadows. This is desert camping in its purest form: up early, shade at midday, a campfire in the evening where allowed.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Las Vegas to Zion / Springdale (approx. 270 km)
- The drive
- Take the I-15 north-east through the Mojave Desert and the Virgin River Gorge, then from St. George the UT-9 to Springdale, finishing through the green valley of the Virgin River. About 2.5 hours without detours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Valley of Fire State Park: red sandstone and petroglyphs at Mouse’s Tank (about 1.5 hours as a detour).
- Kolob Canyons (exit 40 of the I-15): a short scenic drive into the less-visited northern section of Zion.
- Zion Canyon Scenic Drive – for most of the year accessible only by the free shuttle.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Watchman Campground or South Campground (NPS; reopened since late May 2026 after renovation), right at the park entrance by the river under cottonwoods. At Watchman some sites have electricity; toilets, dump station and water point, no showers. Reserve on Recreation.gov as soon as the booking window opens.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): BLM land around Hurricane and Virgin, for example the Hurricane Cliffs on Sheep Bridge Road with views of Zion’s peaks: camping only at the numbered sites (designated dispersed camping), a maximum of 14 days within 28 days, fires only in the steel rings, no facilities at all, pack out your rubbish. The gravel roads are not suitable for large motorhomes.
- Insider tip for campers
- Over 40 °C in summer: drive the desert stage early, check tyre pressure and coolant, and carry at least 20 litres of reserve water. Large parking spaces are scarce in Springdale – use the shuttle from town.
2Stage 2: Zion to Bryce Canyon (approx. 120 km)
- The drive
- Over the Zion–Mount Carmel Highway with its switchbacks and the 1.8 km tunnel from the 1930s, then up past Checkerboard Mesa, continuing on the US-89 and UT-12 through Red Canyon. About 2 hours. Since June 2026 large vehicles are no longer allowed on this road (see tip) and must take a considerably longer detour around the park.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Canyon Overlook Trail just beyond the tunnel: around 1.6 km there and back, with a view into the main canyon.
- The rock arches of the UT-12 in Red Canyon.
- Sunrise and Sunset Point, plus the Navajo Loop and Queen’s Garden down among the hoodoos.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: North Campground or Sunset Campground in Bryce Canyon National Park among ponderosa pines near the rim: toilets, no hookups, seasonal water and dump station. Outside the park: Red Canyon Campground (Dixie National Forest) with red rocks at your back.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Forest roads in the Dixie National Forest west of the park, for example along Tom Best Road: dispersed camping with a 14-day limit. The dirt roads turn muddy after rain.
- Insider tip for campers
- Since 7 June 2026 there are no more tunnel escorts: vehicles over 11'4" (3.45 m) in height, 7'10" (2.39 m) in width, 35'9" (10.9 m) in length or 50,000 lbs (22.7 t), as well as combinations over 50 ft (15.24 m) in total length (trailers over 26 ft from hitch to axle), are banned from the entire Zion–Mount Carmel Highway between Canyon Junction and the east entrance. They take the southern route via Hurricane, UT-59/AZ-389 and Kanab or the northern route via I-15, UT-20 and US-89 – check the exact dimensions of your rental vehicle (including roof fittings) beforehand. Bryce lies above 2,400 m: even in June it can freeze at night – protect your water tank and hoses.
3Stage 3: Bryce Canyon to Capitol Reef (approx. 200 km)
- The drive
- Scenic Byway 12 through Escalante, over the “Hogback” – a narrow ridge without guardrails – to Boulder and over Boulder Mountain at around 2,900 m to Torrey. 3.5 to 4 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Kodachrome Basin State Park: a short detour south of Cannonville to sandstone chimneys.
- Lower Calf Creek Falls: around 9.5 km there and back through a sandy canyon to a 38 m waterfall.
- Capitol Reef with Fruita: the Mormon settlers’ orchards (pick your own in season), Fremont culture petroglyphs and the Gifford Homestead.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Fruita Campground in Capitol Reef National Park, on grass between fruit trees and red rock walls: toilets, water, no hookups, reservation needed in season. The small Calf Creek Campground (BLM) is not suitable for long vehicles.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Fishlake National Forest above Torrey (for example Beas Lewis Flat), dispersed camping among the junipers is permitted.
- Insider tip for campers
- There are only a few filling stations on the UT-12 (Tropic, Escalante, Boulder, Torrey) – fill up wherever you can. Avoid the Hogback in crosswinds and after dark; if you are not good with heights, drive slowly and keep to the middle of the lane.
4Stage 4: Capitol Reef to Moab (approx. 230 km)
- The drive
- Take the UT-24 through the lunar landscape near Caineville to Hanksville, north to the I-70 and via the US-191 to Moab. Lots of straights, ribbons of hot tarmac, about 3 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Goblin Valley State Park: thousands of mushroom-shaped rocks that you are free to wander among.
- Arches National Park: Delicate Arch at sunset and the Windows area. In 2026 no timed entry reservation is required (in previous years it applied in season); when car parks are full, rangers temporarily close individual areas – check the rules on nps.gov every year.
- Dead Horse Point State Park and Island in the Sky (Canyonlands) with Mesa Arch at sunrise.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Devils Garden Campground in Arches National Park among the rock fins (books up fast). The campgrounds in Dead Horse Point State Park have electricity, washrooms and canyon views. Along the Colorado River on the UT-128 there are several BLM campgrounds, such as Goose Island, with river views.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Moab, dispersed camping is only permitted at designated sites, for example on Willow Springs Road north of the Arches entrance (numbered sites). Your own toilet is mandatory; fires only in rings or fire pans.
- Insider tip for campers
- Hanksville is the last filling station for a long way. Fill up with water and empty your tanks in Moab before heading into the Navajo Nation, where facilities become sparse.
5Stage 5: Moab to Monument Valley (approx. 250 km)
- The drive
- Take the US-191 south via Monticello and Blanding to Bluff, then the US-163 via Mexican Hat into Monument Valley. Wide plateaus, later red mesas; about 3 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Wilson Arch right beside the US-191, a few minutes’ walk away.
- Goosenecks State Park: the San Juan River has carved meanders 300 m deep into the rock.
- Forrest Gump Point on the US-163 (around mile marker 13) with the classic road view of Monument Valley.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: The View Campground in Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park with views of the Mittens (basic facilities, fee paid to the Navajo). Or Goosenecks State Park: simple pitches right at the rim, toilets, no water, fee.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Valley of the Gods (BLM; outside the monument boundaries since Bears Ears National Monument was reduced in July 2026): a gravel loop between rock towers, free camping permitted – not for large motorhomes or in wet conditions. Wild camping without a permit is prohibited on Navajo Nation land.
- Insider tip for campers
- Alcohol is prohibited on Navajo land, and the Navajo Nation switches to daylight saving time while the rest of Arizona does not – times can differ by an hour. The 27 km Valley Drive is unpaved and unsuitable for motorhomes; book a tour with a Navajo guide.
6Stage 6: Monument Valley to Grand Canyon South Rim (approx. 290 km)
- The drive
- Via Kayenta on the US-160 to Tuba City, south on the US-89 and via the AZ-64 to the Desert View east entrance. Wide Navajo highlands, pine forest at the end; about 3.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Navajo National Monument: a short path to the viewpoint over the Betatakin cliff dwelling.
- Little Colorado River Gorge (Navajo Tribal Park) on the AZ-64, a narrow, deep gorge.
- Desert View Watchtower and the viewpoints along Desert View Drive as far as Mather Point.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Mather Campground (NPS) in the pine forest by Grand Canyon Village, no hookups, showers and laundry nearby. Full hookups at Trailer Village RV Park inside the park; quieter and seasonal: Desert View Campground.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Kaibab National Forest south of Tusayan, for example along Forest Road 688, dispersed camping with a 14-day limit is permitted – a few minutes from the park entrance.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up in Tuba City or Tusayan; there are only a few pumps in the park. Free shuttles run from Grand Canyon Village to the viewpoints on Hermit Road, most of which is closed to private vehicles.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In Utah, Arizona and Nevada, dispersed camping is largely permitted on BLM and national forest land, usually with a 14-day limit; around Moab and in popular areas only at designated sites.
- In the national parks, overnight stays outside the campgrounds are prohibited, including in car parks – rangers do check.
- The Navajo Nation only permits wild camping with a permit.
- Apps: iOverlander, Campendium, Recreation.gov and the NPS app with offline maps.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations in the parks (Zion Watchman, Bryce, Fruita seasonally, Grand Canyon), in Moab and at many filling stations.
- Water is the main issue: there is little of it along the way, and it is warm. Top up in every town and allow 5 litres per person per day.
- Never discharge grey water into the desert; around Moab your own toilet is mandatory in many places.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Zion–Mount Carmel Highway with tunnel: no more escorts since June 2026, vehicles over 11'4" in height, 7'10" in width, 35'9" in length (combinations 50 ft) or 50,000 lbs are banned.
- Speed: Utah allows up to 80 mph on interstates, Arizona up to 75 mph; on gravel, drive according to conditions.
- Park entry: since 2026, visitors without US residency need the more expensive Non-Resident Annual Pass instead of the regular “America the Beautiful” annual pass. Without an annual pass, non-US citizens aged 16 and over pay a per-person surcharge on top of the entrance fee in heavily visited parks such as Zion, Bryce Canyon and Grand Canyon; the annual pass covers this and is therefore almost always worth it on this route. Check current amounts on nps.gov.
- No tolls on this route.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- An extra water container (20–40 litres) and a supply of electrolytes – often 150 km without a source between towns.
- Reflective sunshades for the windscreen and a 12 V fan.
- Tyre compressor and pressure gauge for gravel roads (Valley of the Gods, Goosenecks).
- Head torch with red light for stargazing and sunrise hikes.
- Portable toilet or WAG bags – mandatory at many dispersed sites around Moab.
- Printed park reservations and annual pass – often no signal in the canyons.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
