In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the Kaibab Plateau with aspens and bison down to the Colorado bridge, and past condor cliffs to Page: a route for campers who want to experience the Grand Canyon without the crowds.
The spirit of the route
The North Rim is the quiet edge of the Grand Canyon: 1,000 ft higher than the South Rim, cooler, greener, with fewer visitors and just one road up. Beyond Jacob Lake the forest of ponderosa pines, aspens and spruce closes in around AZ-67, meadows open up, and in autumn the foliage glows yellow against the dark conifers. At Bright Angel Point the ground suddenly falls away; below lies Transept Canyon, and on the horizon the rock cathedrals. Then it goes down into the desert: US-89A clings to the edge of the Echo Cliffs, the Vermilion Cliffs glow red in the evening light, and California condors circle over Navajo Bridge. At Lees Ferry the rafting through the canyon begins. Page finally brings Horseshoe Bend, Lake Powell and Glen Canyon Dam. In 2026 the north feels different from before: after the Dragon Bravo fire the historic Grand Canyon Lodge is destroyed, but the rim remains accessible.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Kanab to North Rim (Grand Canyon) (approx. 140 km)
- The drive
- From Kanab take Fredonia and US-89A to Jacob Lake, then AZ-67 (Kaibab Plateau–North Rim Parkway, National Scenic Byway) for 43 miles through high forest and across meadows to the rim. Well-built, hardly any traffic, deer and bison crossing; speed mostly 45–55 mph. Driving time is about 2.5 hours; fuel stations in Kanab, Fredonia and Jacob Lake; at the rim, according to the NPS, closed since 19 September. The road is closed in winter when snow falls (usually from the end of November to May); according to the NPS operations end on 30 November or at the first major snowfall.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Jacob Lake Inn and Kaibab Plateau Visitor Center: cookies, information on the Forest Service and the park status; fuel station and supplies for the route.
- Bright Angel Point Trail: a short, secured path onto a narrow ridge with a view into Transept Canyon; evening light is the most rewarding.
- Cape Royal Scenic Drive and Point Imperial: the highest point on the rim (about 2,680 m); according to the NPS both scenic roads are closed in 2026 from sunset on 15 October to sunrise on 3 November because of road works.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: North Rim Campground (NPS) in pine forest near the rim: according to the NPS open until 15 October 2026, reservations via Recreation.gov; basic sites, water and toilets, no electric or sewer hook-ups at the site; check facilities and the dump station with the NPS beforehand, after the fires. In addition DeMotte Campground (Kaibab National Forest, about 7 miles north), according to the NPS from 18 September to 31 October, first-come, first-served. Jacob Lake Campground (Kaibab NF) as a seasonal site; check dates.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Kaibab National Forest dispersed camping is allowed outside the campgrounds and park boundaries (usually up to 14 days, distance from water and road), not in the national park itself. Access via forest roads impassable after rain; only with a suitable vehicle. Check the fire-ban stages in autumn.
- Insider tip for campers
- After the Dragon Bravo fire of July 2025 the Grand Canyon Lodge and the visitor centre at the North Rim are destroyed; accommodation is lacking in 2026, only camping and limited services. Check weather and road status before departure at nps.gov/grca/northrimstatus; wildfire scars increase the risk of flash floods in thunderstorms. For visitors without US residence, higher fees have in some cases applied since 2026; check amounts at nps.gov.
2Stage 2: North Rim to Lees Ferry (approx. 150 km)
- The drive
- Back to Jacob Lake, then east on US-89A: the road drops in long switchbacks from 7,900 ft into the foreland of the Kaibab Plateau, with views over the red desert and the Vermilion Cliffs. At Marble Canyon the Lees Ferry Road branches off to the Colorado, while US-89A itself crosses the river on Navajo Bridge. Driving time is about 3 hours, with steep gradients in the lower part; use engine braking. Fuel stations in Jacob Lake and Marble Canyon (lodge and fuel station, higher prices).
- Highlights & must-sees
- Vermilion Cliffs National Monument: a red escarpment at House Rock Valley; California condors are released here and often fly over Navajo Bridge.
- Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center (NPS) at Marble Canyon: two bridges over the Colorado, the historic one of 1929 for pedestrians only; from spring to autumn with ranger information on condors; check opening hours.
- Lees Ferry: historic ferry landing, starting point for rafting in the Grand Canyon and fishing in the Colorado; Lonely Dell Ranch (NPS).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Lees Ferry Campground (Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, NPS): on the edge of the river valley, basic sites without hook-ups; according to the NPS the campground is being renovated, the upper loop is closed and only the lower loop is open. The NPS does not take reservations there (payment in advance online is possible but does not secure a site); check length limits with the NPS beforehand; in high season the sites fill quickly. As an alternative, the private lodges near Marble Canyon, whose sites count only as an emergency solution.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the BLM land of Vermilion Cliffs National Monument (House Rock Valley Road) dispersed camping is allowed, but the road is closed or impassable after rain; mostly unsuitable for motorhomes. Entering Coyote Buttes North (The Wave) requires a lottery permit; do not drive to the Wire Pass trailhead without a suitable vehicle.
- Insider tip for campers
- Navajo Bridge: on the footbridge of the old bridge, 140 m above the Colorado, take a few minutes and look out for condors. Marble Canyon has mobile reception only in parts; download offline maps beforehand. Summer heat: drive early in the day.
3Stage 3: Lees Ferry to Page (approx. 145 km)
- The drive
- From Lees Ferry back to Marble Canyon, then US-89A over Navajo Bridge, and at Bitter Springs onto US-89 north along the Echo Cliffs; wide views of the edge of the Colorado Plateau, flat sections, little traffic. Before Page the road runs across a high plain; fuel stations in Marble Canyon, Bitter Springs (limited) and Page. Driving time is about 2 hours; with stops, until the afternoon.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Horseshoe Bend: a viewpoint high above the loop of the Colorado; the car park of the town of Page is chargeable (according to the operator US$10 for cars and motorhomes, NPS passes are not accepted) and often full in summer; parking on US-89 is prohibited, drones are not allowed. The light is best in the late afternoon.
- Glen Canyon Dam and Carl Hayden Visitor Center (NPS): the 710 ft high dam wall of Lake Powell, with a view of the bridge and the river; check opening hours and tours.
- Antelope Canyon: accessible only with authorised Navajo guides (Upper, Lower and other slot canyons); book early, motorhomes have little room at the meeting points.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Wahweap Campground & RV Park (Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, run by a concessionaire): sites on Lake Powell, also with electricity, water and sewer; check details with the operator. Lone Rock Beach (also Glen Canyon NRA, Utah side): beach camping without hook-ups, fee payable; access on sand only with four-wheel drive, the water level of the lake affects access. Private RV parks in Page as a reserve.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the Navajo Nation and around Page, staying overnight outside designated campgrounds is not allowed (Navajo Nation land requires permits). On BLM land in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument dispersed camping is possible, but further north in Utah.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Navajo Nation observes daylight saving time, the rest of Arizona does not; with booked tours always check the time zone of the reservation (daylight saving time ends on the first Sunday in November). At Horseshoe Bend, never take photos with your back to the drop.
4Stage 4: Page to Lake Powell and Lone Rock (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- A day for Lake Powell: from Page over the Glen Canyon Bridge and US-89 into Utah, from Wahweap and Antelope Point to boat ramps and viewpoints. Short drives on well-built roads; parking at ramps for large vehicles is limited. Driving time only a few hours, the rest of the day for the lakeshore and hikes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lake Powell: boat tours and kayaking from Wahweap Marina (concessionaire); the water level fluctuates greatly, and access points and beaches change.
- Rainbow Bridge National Monument: reachable only by boat or on foot with a Navajo permit; for a day trip from Wahweap, book a tour.
- Lone Rock Beach: a designated beach site with a view of the Lone Rock monolith in the lake; sunset from the camper.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Stay on at Wahweap (see stage 3) or Lone Rock Beach. Alternatively Antelope Point; check reservations, season and hook-ups with the operator in each case. Page-Lake Powell Campground and other private sites as a reserve.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Outside designated campgrounds no camping is allowed at Lake Powell; only at beach sites with a permit (Lone Rock). Lakeshores are partly reserved for boats.
- Insider tip for campers
- Water level and sand access fluctuate greatly; at Lone Rock Beach check the condition beforehand and never drive heavy vehicles into soft sand, as recovery is expensive. Gusts of wind sweep across the water in spring and autumn; bring in the awning.
5Stage 5: Page to Kanab (approx. 125 km)
- The drive
- From Page on US-89 north and west, via Big Water and the Paria valley to Kanab. Red and white rocks, sand and hoodoos; two lanes, speed 55–65 mph. Driving time is about 2 hours. Fuel stations in Page, Big Water (limited) and Kanab.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Big Water Visitor Center (Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument): fossils and an exhibition on Lake Powell and the region; check opening hours.
- Toadstool Hoodoos (BLM): a short walk to mushroom-shaped sandstone figures, trailhead on US-89, a hike of a few kilometres; watch for heat and thunderstorms.
- Paria Contact Station and Paria Movie Set Area: gateway to the Grand Staircase; unpaved roads not for motorhomes.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park (Utah State Parks) near Kanab: campground among pink dunes, basic sites, water and toilets, reservations via Utah State Parks; check the length limit before arrival. Alternatively private RV parks in Kanab and BLM land.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and on BLM land near Kanab dispersed camping is allowed (usually 14 days); access roads partly unpaved and impassable after rain. Follow the advice of the BLM Kanab Field Office.
- Insider tip for campers
- Central Kanab offers supermarkets, propane and dump stations; before Zion or Bryce, fill up and shop here once more. Thunderstorms in autumn can fill washes in a short time; never drive through flowing water.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Free camping is generally allowed in Arizona on National Forest and BLM land, usually up to 14 days; in Grand Canyon National Park and on Navajo Nation land it is prohibited. Kaibab National Forest north of the park is the most important legal option at the North Rim.
- Fire bans are common in Arizona and Utah (Stage 1 or 2); gas and charcoal fires are in part allowed, in part prohibited; check the advice with the Forest Service or NPS. Wildfire season in high summer, monsoon July to September.
- Wildlife: bison on the Kaibab Plateau, deer, coyotes and snakes; keep at least about 25 yards from bison, seal food at night, do not feed animals.
- Apps and maps: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, Recreation.gov for NPS and Forest Service campgrounds, Utah State Parks for state parks; MVUM maps of the Kaibab NF.
- Navajo Nation: camping and hiking outside designated sites require permits; drones are prohibited; do not leave the roads.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Fresh water: drinking water at NPS locations partly restricted after the fires; bring canisters and a filter. In Jacob Lake, Kanab and Page there is water at fuel stations and campgrounds.
- Dump stations: Jacob Lake, Kanab, Page and in some State Parks and campgrounds; sanidumps.com helps. At the North Rim, check the dump status beforehand.
- Fuel: Kanab, Fredonia, Jacob Lake, Marble Canyon, Page; at the North Rim no fuel station since 19 September according to the NPS, next fuel at Jacob Lake or the North Rim Country Store.
- Propane in Kanab, Page and Fredonia; European bottles need an adapter.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Kanab and Page; on the Kaibab Plateau only small shops with high prices.
- Electricity: sites with hook-ups (Wahweap, private RV parks) offer 30 or 50 A; the North Rim has no hook-ups at the site.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in mph: highways 55–65, mountain roads much lower, towns 25–35; drive AZ-67 carefully because of animals crossing. Trailers and lorries sometimes lower.
- Fees: Grand Canyon National Park charges an entrance fee; the America the Beautiful Pass is valid for national parks. For visitors without US residence, higher fees or surcharges have in some cases applied since 2026; check current amounts at nps.gov. Horseshoe Bend, Antelope Canyon and Navajo areas charge their own fees.
- Dimensions and lengths: campgrounds in the Kaibab NF and at Lake Powell partly limit vehicle length; the legal maximum height in Arizona is about 13 ft 6 in.
- Reservations: North Rim Campground via Recreation.gov, Antelope Canyon tours and the Wave lottery weeks to months beforehand; Lees Ferry takes no reservations according to the NPS.
- Season: according to the NPS the North Rim is open until 30 November or until the first big snowfall; in winter AZ-67 is closed. Check road status with ADOT (AZ511).
- Time: Arizona does not switch to daylight saving time, the Navajo Nation and Utah do; daylight saving time ends on the first Sunday in November.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception patchy at the North Rim and in Marble Canyon.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Warm layers and hat: at the North Rim, at about 2,500 m, it freezes at night in autumn, even when the desert below is 25 degrees.
- Binoculars and a telephoto lens for condors, bison and the canyon view.
- 20 l fresh-water canister, water filter and cool box: at the rim and at Lees Ferry there are only basic supplies.
- Offline maps and a paper map; Lees Ferry and Marble Canyon have hardly any reception.
- Level 2–3 levelling ramps and a tyre inflator for forest roads and sandy sites.
- A copy of your reservations (Recreation.gov, tour bookings) and small change for fee machines.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
