Eastern Finland: Koli to Oulanka

Route description

From Kuopio it is about two and a half hours east to Koli, crossing forest and lake country. Koli National Park sits on a ridge above Lake Pielinen; drive up to the car park and walk or take the small funicular to the Ukko-Koli summit, where the view over the lake and islands has inspired Finnish painters and composers. Marked trails lead down to the lakeshore.

Follow the western shore of Pielinen north to Nurmes, a wooden town on a ridge between two lakes. The road north then runs through long stretches of forest towards Kuhmo and Suomussalmi, with few villages. Around Suomussalmi, the Raate Road memorials recall the Winter War battles of 1939–40. Keep your fuel tank topped up and watch for reindeer and elk on the road.

From Suomussalmi continue north towards Kuusamo and turn off to Hossa, a national park of pine ridges, clear lakes and the Värikallio rock paintings. The visitor centre has trail maps and there are lean-to shelters with firewood along the paths. Kuusamo is the regional centre, with supermarkets and fuel. Oulanka lies about 50 km north, close to the Russian border, which is closed.

In Oulanka, the Kiutaköngäs rapids are a short walk from the visitor centre, and hanging bridges cross the river on the Karhunkierros trail. Ruka is a fell resort just south of the park with walking in summer and skiing in winter. From Ruka it is around three hours west on road 81 to Rovaniemi. Summer brings mosquitoes to the forests, so pack repellent, and in winter, drive only with studded or Nordic winter tyres.