In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Nelson over the marble mountain to Mohua, to the northern tip of the South Island at Wharariki and Farewell Spit, and on gravel roads into the Cobb Valley and up to Mount Arthur: around 575 km in seven stages where the tide table and a low gear matter more than speed.
The spirit of the route
Beyond Motueka, Tākaka Hill rises like a wall of marble against Tasman Bay, and when you step out of the sliding door at the top you stand among karst sinkholes, southern beech and grey rock ribs. On the other side lies Mohua, Golden Bay: a bay with its own rhythm, hippie cafés in Tākaka, spring water of unreal clarity at Te Waikoropupū and golden granite beaches as far as Tōtaranui. The further north-west you go, the rougher it gets – at Wharariki the westerly sweeps sand across the dunes, fur seals doze in the rock pools, and Farewell Spit curves out into the sea like a sickle. Behind it waits the backcountry of Kahurangi National Park: gravel roads to the Cobb Reservoir, tussock uplands and snow on Mount Arthur well into spring. This is not a route for people who eat up kilometres, but for those who plan around the weather, the tides and the evening light.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Nelson to Pōhara (Golden Bay) via Tākaka Hill (approx. 115 km)
- The drive
- From Nelson take SH6 to Richmond, then SH60 across the plain via Māpua and Motueka to Riwaka. This is where Tākaka Hill begins: around 25 km of pass road with numerous tight hairpins, long climbs and descents up to about 790 m, sealed throughout but narrow, with rock overhangs and few passing bays. On the Golden Bay side the road descends through forest into the Tākaka Valley and runs on the flat to Tākaka, from where it is 10 km to the coast at Pōhara. A good 2 hours of pure driving time; with stops, half a day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ngarua Caves near the summit on SH60: a marble cave with stalactites and moa bones, visitable only on a guided tour; check opening and tour times in advance.
- Hawkes Lookout near the summit: a short path through karst terrain to a platform with views into the Riwaka Valley and across Tasman Bay.
- Optionally, the narrow gravel Canaan Road to the start of the track to Harwoods Hole, a karst shaft around 180 m deep – with a large campervan only in dry weather and if your rental agreement allows gravel.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Pōhara Beach Top 10 Holiday Park right on the beach at Pōhara: powered sites, kitchen, toilets and showers, dump station for guests. Book well ahead in December and January. If you want to stop earlier: Motueka Top 10 Holiday Park in Motueka is a large park with power and waste disposal.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Responsible Camping Bylaw 2025 applies in Tasman District. Several areas are designated in Motueka – George Quay and Motueka Beach Reserve for certified self-contained vehicles, Decks Reserve on weeknights only; Motueka Beach Reserve also has a few sites for vehicles without certification. On Tākaka Hill, overnight stays in lay-bys and at lookouts are not permitted.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up in Motueka and shop for several days – in Golden Bay there are shops and petrol stations in only a few places, and they are more expensive. Drive down Tākaka Hill in a low gear and let trucks and logging trucks pass at the passing bays. In storms and heavy rain SH60 can be closed at short notice; check road status on NZTA Journeys.
2Stage 2: Pōhara to Tōtaranui via Wainui Bay (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- Take Abel Tasman Drive along the coast via Tata Beach and Ligar Bay to Wainui Bay, then over Pigeon Saddle to Tōtaranui. Sealed as far as Wainui; the last 12 km or so after that are narrow, winding, unsealed and steep in places over the saddle – drive slowly and wait in good time at passing places when there is oncoming traffic. A short distance, but allow at least 45 minutes' driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Wainui Falls: a track from the car park at Wainui Bay through nikau palms and rainforest, over a swing bridge to the largest waterfall in Golden Bay, around 40 minutes each way.
- Abel Tasman Memorial at Ligar Bay above the Tata beaches, with views over the bay where the first encounter between Europeans and Māori took place in 1642.
- Tōtaranui: a wide golden-sand beach at the northern end of Abel Tasman National Park; short coastal walks to Anapai Bay or on the Pukatea Walk. The south of the park around Mārahau and Kaiteriteri is covered in the CampingSpirit guide “Rainforest, surf and glacier ice” from Picton via the West Coast to Wānaka.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: DOC campground Tōtaranui directly behind the beach: a large site with several toilet and shower blocks (toilets, cold showers) and water taps, no powered sites; boil drinking water if in doubt, and ask on site about waste disposal facilities. No rubbish collection – take your rubbish away with you. Book in advance online via the DOC website; no sites are held back for walk-ins, and from December to February and on holiday weekends it is booked out far ahead. The gates are locked at night, so arrive in good time. On the coastal side of Golden Bay, Pōhara is the alternative.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Abel Tasman National Park and the access road to Tōtaranui are DOC land: overnight stays only at your booked campsite. Freedom camping is not permitted along Abel Tasman Drive or on the beaches of Tata and Ligar Bay.
- Insider tip for campers
- The road to Tōtaranui has at times been closed for months after severe weather – before driving, check its status with DOC and on the Tasman District Council road map. On the beach at Tōtaranui you will often see weka, which come curiously up to tents and open doors: don't leave food lying outside. No shop (the camp office sells only small items in season), no fuel beyond Pōhara.
3Stage 3: Tōtaranui to Collingwood via Tākaka and Te Waikoropupū (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- Back over Pigeon Saddle to Pōhara and on to Tākaka, then west on SH60. Just past the Tākaka River the access road to Te Waikoropupū Springs turns off. After that SH60 runs flat through pasture and along the coast, over several one-lane bridges, to Collingwood at the mouth of the Aorere. A good 1.5 hours without stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Te Waikoropupū Springs: New Zealand's largest freshwater springs, with exceptionally clear water; a loop walk with platforms above the main pool. The water is wāhi tapu to Māori – do not touch it, swim in it or fill bottles.
- Tākaka: a small main street with cafés, galleries and crafts – a good place for shopping and laundry.
- Labyrinth Rocks Park on Scott Road near Tākaka: a labyrinth of weathered limestone rocks with narrow passages, especially fun with children.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Collingwood Holiday Park on the water, with powered sites for campervans, a communal kitchen, toilets and showers; ten minutes north, Pākawau Beach Park right on the beach. On the way is Golden Bay Holiday Park on the beach at Tukurua, around 18 km north of Tākaka. Check season, facilities and waste disposal directly in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The only designated freedom camping area in Golden Bay is Motupipi Carpark near Tākaka, with a maximum of 11 sites, only for certified self-contained vehicles with a green warrant. Sleeping in your vehicle is not allowed at the springs, in Collingwood or on the beaches west of Tākaka.
- Insider tip for campers
- Tākaka has the last larger shopping opportunity and the most reliable petrol station before the north-west – stock up before you move on. According to the council there is no public, free dump station in Golden Bay; empty your tanks at the holiday park or before leaving Nelson.
4Stage 4: Collingwood to Wharariki via Puponga and Cape Farewell (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Collingwood north via Pākawau and Puponga to the base of Farewell Spit, then along Wharariki Road to the car park for Cape Farewell and Wharariki Beach; the last section is gravel. A narrow road with one-lane bridges and livestock on the road, about 45 minutes' driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Farewell Spit (Onetahua): the sandspit, around 30 km long, is a nature reserve. Only the base of the spit near Puponga is freely accessible on foot; further out and to the lighthouse you can go only on a guided tour with a concession operator – departure times depend on the tides.
- Cape Farewell: a short walk from the car park to the cliffs at the northernmost point of the South Island, with a rock arch and views down the West Coast.
- Wharariki Beach: around 20 minutes across pasture and dunes to a wild beach with the Archway Islands; at low tide, fur seals in the rock pools. DOC advises keeping at least 20 m away; do not swim – strong currents.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Wharariki Beach Holiday Park on Wharariki Road, a few minutes from the beach car park: open year-round, powered and unpowered sites for campervans (book powered sites in advance), kitchen, toilets and showers and a drinking water tap for filling tanks, but no dump station. Alternatively Farewell Gardens Holiday Park in Puponga, or back to Collingwood or Pākawau.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Puponga Farm Park, Cape Farewell and Wharariki are DOC land and working farmland: camping is not allowed in the farm park or in the Farewell Spit Nature Reserve, including in the car parks, and the Farewell Spit Nature Reserve may not be entered beyond the open area. No freedom camping in the north-west of Golden Bay.
- Insider tip for campers
- The tides decide this day: Wharariki shows its rock pools and arches best at low tide, and the spit tours depart according to the tide – so book the tour in advance and fit Wharariki in before or after. The wind here often carries sand; change lenses and handle cameras only in shelter. During lambing and calving or in extreme fire danger, DOC may close the farm park to visitors; then stay on roads and car parks. Follow the signs and leave gates as you find them.
5Stage 5: Wharariki to Tākaka via the Cobb Valley (approx. 150 km)
- The drive
- Back via Collingwood on SH60 to Tākaka and on up the valley to Upper Tākaka at the foot of Tākaka Hill. There Cobb Valley Road turns off: around 28 km to its end at the Cobb Reservoir, gravel from the Cobb Power House onwards, narrow, with steep drop-offs and difficult passing places. DOC rates the road as unsuitable for motorhomes and caravans, and large vehicles are not permitted – only with compact campervans and in dry weather. Allow about an hour each way on the gravel road. Then back to Tākaka. A long day – if you prefer a slower pace, split it and spend a night in Tākaka before the trip into the Cobb Valley.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Cobb Reservoir: a reservoir at around 800 m in the tussock and southern beech landscape of Kahurangi National Park, with views of the surrounding ridges.
- Asbestos Cottage Track: around 4.5 km each way to the cottage where Henry Chaffey and Annie Fox lived in seclusion for decades.
- Cobb Valley Track from the road end: an easy valley track to the huts of the upper Cobb Valley; even the first hour is worthwhile.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Back on the coast, Pōhara Beach Top 10 Holiday Park or a site near Tākaka. At the western end of the reservoir is the basic DOC campsite Cobb River: free, no booking, long-drop toilet only, water from the river (boil it) – because of the road conditions only for small vehicles and tents, not for motorhomes.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The only freedom camping option in Golden Bay remains Motupipi Carpark near Tākaka, for self-contained vehicles only. DOC rules apply in Kahurangi National Park; outside the Cobb River campsite, overnight stays at the roadside and in car parks are not permitted.
- Insider tip for campers
- Cobb Valley Road was impassable due to slips after the 2025 storms and has since reopened – check its status with DOC before driving. In winter DOC recommends 4WD because of ice and snow. Many rental agreements exclude gravel roads from insurance cover; this applies to exactly this route. On the way back, top up water and food in Tākaka for the drive over the Hill.
6Stage 6: Tākaka to Ngātīmoti via Flora Car Park (Mount Arthur) (approx. 115 km)
- The drive
- Back over Tākaka Hill to Riwaka, then up the Motueka Valley to Ngātīmoti and Pokororo. There Graham Valley Road begins: a steep, narrow mountain road, gravel in its upper part, climbing to Flora Car Park at just under 950 m. Not suitable for large campervans and vehicles towing trailers; with compact vehicles drive slowly and only in dry conditions. Then back down into the Motueka Valley. A good 3 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Flora Track to Flora Hut: a wide, almost level track through southern beech forest, for a first impression of Kahurangi in a little over an hour.
- Mount Arthur (Wharepapa): the climb via Mount Arthur Hut to the 1,795 m summit, with views as far as Golden Bay – a long, demanding day walk, exposed to the weather above the bushline.
- Motueka River: clear swimming spots and gravel bars in the valley between Ngātīmoti and Pokororo.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Alexander Bluff Road Reserve near Ngātīmoti is a designated Tasman District area for up to 40 vehicles which, according to the council, may also be used by vehicles without self-contained certification – basic, no power. For more comfort: Motueka Top 10 Holiday Park in Motueka.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Sleeping in your vehicle is not permitted at Flora Car Park or along Graham Valley Road; DOC rules apply in the national park, with overnight stays only in huts or at designated campsites. Tent camping on public land in Tasman District is generally not allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- Graham Valley Road was closed for a long time after storm damage and has now reopened – check its status with DOC before driving. DOC describes the road as a steep, narrow alpine road, suitable only for 4WD in winter and requiring chains in snow and ice. Set off early for the walk and pack for changes in the weather – the car park lies higher than anywhere else you drive to on this route.
7Stage 7: Ngātīmoti to Nelson (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- Out through the Motueka Valley and over the hills of the Moutere region, or back via Motueka and the coastal road SH60 to Richmond and Nelson. Well-maintained country roads, winding in the Moutere hills. About an hour's driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Upper Moutere: a small village with a settlers' church and inns from the era of German immigration in the 19th century.
- Rabbit Island (Moturoa) near Māpua: a long beach with pine forest and cycle paths of the Great Taste Trail – open during the day only.
- Nelson: Christ Church Cathedral on Church Hill and the Saturday market in the centre.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Nelson, Nelson Tahuna Beach Holiday Park in Tahunanui near the beach, with powered sites, kitchens and a dump station. In Richmond, Tasman District designates a small freedom camping area on Fittal Street.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Nelson City Council allows freedom camping only in a few areas with stay limits; overnight stays are prohibited on the beaches of Tahunanui and on Rabbit Island. Check current areas in CamperMate and on the council website.
- Insider tip for campers
- Empty your tanks before returning the vehicle or travelling on: the public dump station in Nelson is on St Vincent Street (NPD petrol station) and can be used by everyone. Clean sand and gravel off the vehicle – rental campervans are checked for underbody damage on return.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Self-Contained Motor Vehicles Legislation Act 2023: freedom camping in a vehicle on council and other public land requires a certified self-contained vehicle with a green warrant, unless a council expressly designates areas for other vehicles. For rental vehicles this has applied since 7 December 2024, for private vehicles since the end of the transition period on 7 June 2026. A fixed toilet is required; a portable one is not enough. The fine is NZ$400; for rental vehicles it is passed on with an administration fee.
- Tasman District (Responsible Camping Bylaw 2025): tent camping on public land is prohibited throughout the district. Designated areas are few and separated by vehicle type – in Golden Bay only Motupipi Carpark near Tākaka (self-contained, 11 sites), in the Motueka area George Quay, Motueka Beach Reserve, Decks Reserve (weeknights only) and Alexander Bluff Road Reserve near Ngātīmoti, in Richmond Fittal Street. Prohibited zones are marked red on the council's responsible camping map, which also shows the stay limits.
- DOC land: in Abel Tasman and Kahurangi National Parks you stay overnight only at campsites and huts; Tōtaranui must be booked online in advance, as many DOC campsites now must. Beyond the base of the spit, the Farewell Spit Nature Reserve is accessible only on a guided tour. Farmland and marae are off limits.
- Apps: CamperMate shows council areas, dump stations and road notices; WikiCamps adds user reports. Bylaws and areas change – if in doubt, open the Tasman District Council map; signs on site take precedence.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations: according to Tasman District Council there is no free public station in Golden Bay; holiday parks such as Pōhara Beach Top 10 offer disposal for guests only, and Wharariki Beach Holiday Park has no station. The station on St Vincent Street in Nelson is free to use. Drive over Tākaka Hill with empty tanks and plan on holiday parks. Never empty grey water or cassettes into drains, rivers or the countryside – this too can bring fines.
- Drinking water: generally drinkable in towns and at holiday parks; at DOC campsites follow the notices and boil if in doubt. No water may be taken from Te Waikoropupū Springs.
- Gas: 9 kg LPG bottles are standard and are swapped or refilled at petrol stations and hardware stores, only with a valid test date. European bottles and fittings do not fit. The widest choice is in Nelson, Richmond and Motueka.
- Fuel: fill up in Motueka and Tākaka; in the north-west (Collingwood, Puponga, Wharariki), at Tōtaranui, in the Cobb Valley and in the Motueka Valley above Ngātīmoti supply is sparse or non-existent. Diesel rental vehicles usually include Road User Charges in the bill – clarify in advance.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Driving on the left: roundabouts clockwise, give way to traffic from the right. Golden Bay has many one-lane bridges – the large white arrow shows who has right of way, the small red arrow means wait.
- Speed limits: 100 km/h outside towns, 50 km/h in towns, with many sections of 80, 60 km/h or less on Tākaka Hill and along the coast. Vehicles over 3.5 t and those towing trailers a maximum of 90 km/h. There are no toll roads on this route.
- Steep roads: Tākaka Hill (SH60), Pigeon Saddle to Tōtaranui, Cobb Valley Road and Graham Valley Road call for low gears downhill and patience. Graham Valley Road is unsuitable for large campervans and vehicles towing trailers, and according to DOC suitable only for 4WD in winter; chains may be needed. Road status on NZTA Journeys and with DOC, weather at MetService.
- Animals: sheep, cattle and stock movements on the road have right of way; weka walk on the roads to Tōtaranui and in the backcountry, possums at night. At Wharariki and Cape Farewell, DOC advises keeping at least 20 m from fur seals.
- Rental campervans and insurance: many rental agreements exclude gravel roads wholly or partly from insurance cover – here this affects parts of the road to Tōtaranui, Wharariki Road, the Cobb Valley and Graham Valley Road. Foreign driving licences are valid for up to twelve months if they are in English or presented with an approved translation or an International Driving Permit.
- Alcohol and phones: 0.05% blood alcohol for drivers aged 20 and over, zero below that. Phones only in a fixed mount; seatbelts compulsory in all seats. Emergency number 111; mobile coverage is largely absent at Pigeon Saddle, in the Cobb Valley and at Flora Car Park.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Tide table (app or printout) for Golden Bay and Farewell Spit: tours, rock pools and beach walks at Wharariki depend on low tide.
- Sandfly protection with DEET or picaridin and tight-fitting fly screens: on the beaches of Tōtaranui and Wharariki and in the Cobb Valley, sandflies are persistent at dusk.
- Warm, windproof and waterproof clothing, hat and gloves: at Flora Car Park and on Mount Arthur it can snow even in summer, and at Wharariki a constant westerly blows.
- Full fresh water and empty waste tanks plus a 20-litre reserve container: there is no public dump station in Golden Bay and no water on the way into the Cobb Valley.
- Offline maps and a saved DOC booking for Tōtaranui: there is hardly any reception at Pigeon Saddle, in the Cobb Valley and on Graham Valley Road.
- Brakes and tyres checked before the trip, plus wheel chocks: the route includes three steep mountain roads and long gravel stretches.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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