In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the edge of Copenhagen via Roskilde, the chalk walls of Stevns and Møn, the bridge islands of Bogø and Farø, Falster and Lolland, by ferry to Langeland and Funen, across to Ærø and back over the Great Belt: around 740 kilometres through the Danish islands, with three ferry crossings and one of the longest bridges in Europe.
The spirit of the route
On the Danish islands the sea is never far away, but it is rarely loud. Between Zealand and Funen lie beech woods that run right up to white chalk cliffs, villages of thatched half-timbered houses, harbour basins full of wooden boats and fields in which church towers stand like sea marks. You drive over causeways and bridges from island to island, roll onto a ferry in the morning and drink your coffee on deck while the coast of Ærø draws closer. From the sliding door you see swans on the Bogø Strøm, in the evening the starry sky over Møn, darker than almost anywhere else in northern Europe, and on the last stage the pylons of the Storebæltsbroen in the haze. The distances are short, yet the days are full: chalk quarries, Viking ships, a moated castle, ships in bottles. Wild camping is not an option here – instead there are small harbour pitches where you fall asleep looking out over the water.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Copenhagen (outskirts) to Rødvig (Stevns) (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- Start at a site on the edge of the city, such as DCU-Camping København – Absalon in Rødovre to the west; avoid the city centre in the motorhome and explore it by S-train or bike. Take road 21 or the Holbækmotorvej to Roskilde (around 30 km), then head south on country roads and the E47/E55 to Køge and on along the coast via Strøby to Rødvig. Flat and well built; commuter jams around Copenhagen on weekdays from 7 to 9 am and from 3 pm. About two hours’ driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Roskilde Domkirke (UNESCO World Heritage Site): brick cathedral with the burial chapels of around 40 Danish kings and queens.
- Vikingeskibsmuseet on Roskilde Fjord: five Viking ships from the 11th century that were scuttled in the fjord, plus a boatyard where replicas are built.
- Køge: market square and half-timbered lanes of the old port town, a good stop for shopping and lunch before Stevns.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Rødvig Havn has a small autocamperplads at the harbour (around 15 pitches according to OpenStreetMap) with a view of the pier and fishing boats; check electricity and facilities on site, payment via the harbour. If you prefer a campsite, Roskilde Camping in Roskilde lies right on the fjord (seasonal, check opening dates) (electricity, toilets and showers, water/waste disposal) – Stevns then moves to the next morning.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Copenhagen and Køge, overnighting at the roadside is prohibited by signs in many places, and the nature campsites in the greater area (such as in Pinseskoven on Amager or near Hareskoven) are tent and shelter sites with no vehicle access. At night, park only on designated pitches or where parking without a time limit is allowed – without awning, table and chairs.
- Insider tip for campers
- Copenhagen and Frederiksberg have a low-emission zone that was extended to include further areas on 1 March 2025 (including Ørestad with Fields and Royal Arena); number plates are recorded by camera. Check your vehicle in advance on miljoezoner.dk and register it there if required. In Roskilde, don’t drive into multi-storey car parks; at the end of June/beginning of July, Roskilde Festival brings traffic to a standstill in the south of the town.
2Stage 2: Rødvig (Stevns) to Møns Klint (approx. 95 km)
- The drive
- From Rødvig, drive a few kilometres north to the cliff at Højerup, then via Store Heddinge and country roads to Præstø and Kalvehave. Cross the narrow Dronning Alexandrines Bro of 1943 onto the island of Møn, go through Stege and continue east on the country road to Klintholm Skov. Very quiet, in places narrow roads between fields; lots of cyclists on Møn. Around two hours’ driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Stevns Klint (UNESCO World Heritage Site): the chalk face shows the boundary layer from the impact that wiped out the dinosaurs 66 million years ago; the Klintevej path runs along the edge.
- Højerup Gamle Kirke: in 1928 its chancel fell into the sea with the cliff; today the secured church stands right at the edge of the drop.
- Stevnsfort Koldkrigsmuseum: underground Cold War fortress with guns and tunnels, visits by guided tour only (check times in advance).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camp Møns Klint lies in the woods a few kilometres from the cliff, a large site with electricity, toilets and showers and water/waste disposal, open seasonally. Quieter and close to the harbour is the parking area in Klintholm Havn (just under 30 pitches according to OpenStreetMap), where the fishing boats come in in the evening; check facilities and price on site. Keldborg near Elmelunde also rents out motorhome pitches.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Møn and Nyord are designated as a dark-sky area, but the car parks at GeoCenter Møns Klint and at Klinteskoven are not overnight spots; the nature campsites in the woods (e.g. Lille Ørnebjerg) are for tents only. If you want to see the stars, take a walk from the campsite after dark.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Dronning Alexandrines Bro is narrow, and large vehicles come close to one another on it; if lorries are coming the other way, it’s better to wait briefly. If your vehicle is heavy or long, take the E47 via Farø instead and drive onto Møn from the west via Bogø. Stege has supermarkets and petrol stations; after that, supplies are thin until the cliff.
3Stage 3: Møns Klint to Gedser (Falster) (approx. 105 km)
- The drive
- In the morning walk to the cliff, then head west via Liselund and Stege through the fields of western Møn, over the causeway to Bogø and on to Farø, where the Farøbroerne carry the E47 from Zealand to Falster. Take the E47 to Falster, then country roads to Nykøbing and the E55 to Gedser. The bridge from Farø to Falster is unpleasant for empty trailers in strong crosswinds. A good two hours’ driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Møns Klint and GeoCenter Møns Klint: chalk walls more than 100 m high, fossil hunting on the beach; after rockfalls, several wooden staircases down to the shore are temporarily closed (including the descent at Røde Udfald), check the current status with the GeoCenter.
- Liselund: romantic landscape park from the late 18th century with a small thatched manor on the edge of the cliff woods.
- Bogø Mølle: windmill above the Bogø Strøm with views of the Farøbroerne and the islands in the Grønsund.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Østersøstrand Camping in Gedser, near Denmark’s southern tip, with electricity, toilets and showers and water/waste disposal. A little further north on Falster are Ulslev Strand Camping and several sites near Marielyst; check the season of the smaller sites in advance. Along the way, Bogø Havn and Stubbekøbing Havn have small harbour pitches.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The rest area on Farø is a state motorway rest area: short rest breaks are permitted, camping set-ups are not, and parking time is limited. At the Hesnæs bathing spot and in beach car parks near Marielyst, overnight parking bans often apply – the signs on site are what count.
- Insider tip for campers
- The small ferry “Ida” between Bogø and Stubbekøbing (around 12 minutes) also takes cars in summer, but has very little space; for motorhomes, the route via Farø and the E47 is the safe choice. Gedser Odde, Denmark’s southernmost point, lies at the end of a spur road with a small car park – better to come early in the evening or in the morning.
4Stage 4: Gedser to Svendborg (Funen) (approx. 150 km)
- The drive
- From Gedser to Nykøbing and over the Guldborgsund bridge to Lolland, through Nysted and on to Maribo. Take road 9 west towards Nakskov and the ferry port of Tårs. Take the ferry (around 45 minutes, check operator and timetable in advance) to Spodsbjerg on Langeland, then cross the island to Rudkøbing and continue over the Langelandsbroen, Siø and Tåsinge and the Svendborgsundbroen to Svendborg. Flat, empty country roads on Lolland; around 2.5 hours’ driving time plus ferry and waiting time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Middelaldercentret near Nykøbing (on the Lolland side of the Guldborgsund): reconstructed medieval trading town with trebuchets and a cog, open seasonally.
- Maribo: cathedral on the shore of Søndersø, with a lakeside path and views across the lake.
- Tåsinge: Bregninge Kirke with a tower view over the island sea, and the baroque Valdemars Slot near Troense.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Svendborgsund Camping lies on the Svendborg side of the sound with a view of Tåsinge (electricity, toilets and showers, check season). On the western edge of town, Rantzausminde Lystbådehavn has an autocamperplads (around a dozen pitches according to OpenStreetMap) with water views. On Lolland, in case the ferry is cancelled: Maribo Sø Camping by the lake, fully equipped.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Lolland and Langeland too: overnighting in vehicles only on motorhome pitches or campsites, or where parking is allowed without restriction; beach car parks on the Baltic are frequently closed at night. The waiting area at the ferry port is not an overnight spot.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Tårs–Spodsbjerg ferry runs frequently, but book in advance anyway in summer and on Fridays; the price depends on length (and in some cases height) – give the real length including bike rack. Fill up cheaply on Lolland; petrol stations are rare on Langeland. In Svendborg, don’t drive the motorhome into the old-town lanes by the harbour.
5Stage 5: Svendborg to Søby (Ærø) (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- In the morning take the Ærø ferry from Svendborg to Ærøskøbing (a little over an hour’s crossing; book and pay for the vehicle ticket in advance). On Ærø, follow narrow, winding island roads to Marstal in the east and then across the middle of the island via Bregninge to Søby in the north-west. Lots of cyclists, tight village through-roads; the island is only just over 30 km long.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ærøskøbing: cobblestones, hollyhocks and colourful 18th-century houses, plus Flaske-Peters Samling with hundreds of ships in bottles.
- Marstal Søfartsmuseum: ship models, figureheads and the story of a town that once had one of Denmark’s great fleets of sailing ships.
- Voderup Klint: terraced, slumped cliffs in the south of the island with views of the sea.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Søby Strand Camping is close to the ferry port, ideal for the morning ferry to Faaborg; Søby Havn also has a small autocamperplads. If you want to stay in the island’s main town: Ærø Strandcamping on the beach at Ærøskøbing, or in Marstal, Marstal Camping and the autocamperplads at the harbour.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Ærø, the nature campsites (such as at Voderup Klint or in Kleven Havn) are for tents only; motorhomes stay overnight on harbour pitches or campsites. Overnighting is not intended in the small car parks at beaches and cliffs.
- Insider tip for campers
- Don’t drive through Ærøskøbing in the motorhome: park on the edge of town or at the harbour and walk. Ærøfærgerne require all tickets to be booked and paid for in advance (online or at the machines in Svendborg and Ærøskøbing); the stated length determines the fare. For the return to Funen, Søby–Faaborg is the right line; a third route goes to Fynshav on Als.
6Stage 6: Søby (Ærø) to Kerteminde (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- Take the ferry from Søby to Faaborg, then head north-east over the hills of the Fynske Alper to Egeskov near Kværndrup and on road 9 to Odense. Beyond Odense, take road 165 to Kerteminde on the east coast. Hilly, winding country roads south of Odense, otherwise well built; around 1.5 hours without the ferry.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Faaborg: harbour, bell tower and the Faaborg Museum with paintings by the Funen Painters.
- Egeskov Slot: moated castle from 1554 built on oak piles, with gardens, mazes and a large collection of vintage cars and other vehicles.
- Odense: Sankt Knuds Kirke with the crypt of King Knud, slain in 1086, plus a walk along the Odense Å.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Kerteminde, the autocamperplads at Kerteminde Marina has electricity and water/waste disposal (about a dozen pitches according to OpenStreetMap), a few steps from the harbour and old town. Kerteminde Camping lies to the north on the beach; further out on Hindsholm is Camp Hverringe. For a detour to Odense, Tarup Campingcenter on the edge of the city has a very small motorhome area – ask in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): According to the castle, overnighting in a motorhome in the Egeskov visitor car park is permitted for one night at most in the marked area (around row 6), only with a valid overnight parking ticket (80 DKK, 5 pm–10 am, at the ticket office or online); this may be suspended during major events. Odense has a low-emission zone; overnighting at the roadside there is not advisable.
- Insider tip for campers
- Allow a whole half-day for Egeskov; the car park is large enough for motorhomes. Don’t cross Odense; take the ring road around it and reach the church via a park-and-ride site. In Kerteminde it’s worth buying fish straight from the harbour; do your shopping for the evening beforehand in Odense.
7Stage 7: Kerteminde to Korsør (Zealand) (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- Short detour to the Ladbyskibet, then along the coast to Nyborg and onto the E20 over the Storebæltsbroen: the West Bridge to Sprogø, then the Østbro suspension bridge with its pylons of a good 250 m, a crossing of around 18 km in total. Toll station on the Zealand side at Halsskov, then down to Korsør. Under an hour’s driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ladbyskibet: Denmark’s only Viking ship grave, under a burial mound at Ladby near Kerteminde.
- Fjord&Bælt in Kerteminde: marine centre with harbour porpoises and seals, good with children.
- Nyborg Slot: medieval royal castle where the first Danish charter (Handfæstning) was signed in 1282; closed for major rebuilding (reopening planned for 2028 according to the museum), the royal wing and ramparts can only be seen from outside.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Lystskov Camping east of Korsør with electricity, toilets and showers and water/waste disposal; right in town, Korsør Lystbådehavn has an autocamperplads with a view of the bridge. On the Funen side, Nyborg Strandcamping and the motorhome pitches at Nyborg Marina would be alternatives.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The car parks by the bridge and on Sprogø are not overnight spots, and Sprogø itself is not freely accessible to visitors. The Naturstyrelsen nature campsites in the woods near Korsør are tent and shelter sites; vehicles stay outside.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Storebælt toll depends on vehicle type and length (motorhomes and combinations over 6 m fall into higher classes; for motorhomes, weight also counts), payment at the station in cash, by card or with a toll box (e.g. BroBizz); current rates on storebaelt.dk. From 15 m/s crosswind, wind-sensitive vehicles – caravan combinations, trailers, and vans and motorhomes under 3.5 t – are banned, and from 25 m/s the whole bridge is closed; check the bridge’s traffic service before setting off.
8Stage 8: Korsør to Copenhagen (outskirts) (approx. 115 km)
- The drive
- From Korsør via Slagelse to the Trelleborg Viking ring fortress, then country roads to Sorø and the E20 (Vestmotorvejen) towards Copenhagen. Heavy traffic from Køge Bugt; get to the site on the edge of the city before the evening jams begin. A good 1.5 hours’ driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Trelleborg near Slagelse: circular Viking fortress from the time of Harald Bluetooth, with rampart, reconstructed longhouse and museum.
- Sorø: abbey church and the academy on Sorø Sø, a walk along the lakeshore under old beeches.
- Copenhagen by bike or S-train: Nyhavn, the harbour baths and the canal side of Christianshavn.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: DCU-Camping København – Absalon in Rødovre to the west (open all year, electricity, toilets and showers, water/waste disposal, S-train connection) lies outside the Copenhagen municipal boundary. To the north: Charlottenlund Fort Camping right on the Øresund, small, seasonal, book early. In the city itself, the Svanemøllehavnen harbour and Urban Camp Copenhagen in the South Harbour offer motorhome pitches – both in the low-emission zone.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Copenhagen and the surrounding municipalities, overnighting at the roadside is practically ruled out: parking time limits, residents’ zones and paid parking apply almost everywhere. Use the motorhome pitches and campsites on the outskirts.
- Insider tip for campers
- At the Absalon site or in Charlottenlund, leave the motorhome parked and go into the city by S-train or bike; bikes travel free on the S-train. If you use the Storebæltsbroen again in the other direction, bear in mind that the toll is charged per direction.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Wild camping is prohibited in Denmark. Resting or sleeping in a motorhome is tolerated on areas where parking is allowed without a time limit or overnight ban – as long as nothing looks like camping: no awning, chairs, table or barbecue, no lowered jacks. Municipalities on the islands (e.g. Vordingborg with Møn, Guldborgsund, Svendborg) frequently signpost beach and harbour car parks with overnight bans.
- The nature campsites, shelters and “fri teltning” areas of Naturstyrelsen and the municipalities (directory: udinaturen.dk, some bookable via bookenshelter.dk) are exclusively for tents, hammocks and hikers; vehicles may not stay overnight there. The same applies to woods and dunes.
- State motorway rest areas such as Farø may be used for resting, but parking time is limited. Protected nature areas at Stevns Klint, Møns Klint and Voderup Klint are off limits to vehicles away from the car parks.
- You are on legally safe ground at campsites and the numerous harbour autocamperpladser, which are often paid for by machine, app or at the harbour master’s office. Useful: park4night, Campercontact and the DCU site list; many harbour sites have only a few pitches – arrive in the afternoon.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Campsites almost always have service points for fresh water, grey water and cassette toilets, some also for passing visitors for a fee. Harbour pitches vary in their facilities: some only have electricity, others water and waste disposal – check in the apps in advance.
- Tap water is drinking water everywhere. Never drain grey water into drains, harbour basins or onto grass.
- Gas: Danish cylinders (Kosan) are issued against a deposit and have their own connections; foreign cylinders are not exchanged. Arrive with two full cylinders or bring a refillable gas cylinder; LPG pumps are rare in Denmark, so look up locations in advance.
- On Langeland and Ærø the network of petrol stations is thin; fill up on Lolland or Funen before the ferries. Card payment works almost everywhere; some harbour machines only accept Danish apps or coins.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: cars and motorhomes up to 3.5 t 50 in built-up areas, 80 outside built-up areas (90 on some stretches), motorways 130 km/h (110 on some sections). Motorhomes over 3.5 t: 70 outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on motorways. Combinations: 80 km/h outside built-up areas and on motorways; 100 km/h on motorways requires a 100 km/h approval under Danish rules – if in doubt, drive at 80. Dipped headlights are compulsory during the day too.
- Low-emission zones in Copenhagen and Frederiksberg (extended in 2025) as well as in Odense, Aarhus and Aalborg. Diesel cars and vans up to 3.5 t need a particulate filter, which is deemed met with Euro 5; vehicles over 3.5 t need Euro VI or an approved particulate filter. There is no sticker; number plates are checked by camera. Foreign diesels must register on miljoezoner.dk on the day of entry at the latest if they are older (cars first registered before 2011, vans before September 2016, heavy vehicles before 2015) and their data cannot be retrieved automatically. Fine according to Øresundsbro information: 1,500 DKK for cars and vans, 12,500 DKK for lorries and buses.
- Tolls: on this route only the Storebæltsbroen is tolled, rate by vehicle type and length, payment by card, in cash or with a toll box (e.g. BroBizz). Bridges to Møn, Farø, Falster, Langeland and Tåsinge are free. The Tårs–Spodsbjerg ferry and the Ærø lines also charge by length; book in advance.
- Dimensions: max. 2.55 m wide, 4 m high, single vehicle 12 m long. Load projecting far beyond the rear must be marked; bikes on the rear rack must not obscure lights and number plate.
- Blood alcohol limit 0.5; mobile phone at the wheel only hands-free. Carry a high-visibility vest and warning triangle; Denmark also has strict rules on stopping on cycle paths – never use cycle paths for parking or unloading.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Bikes with locks – Copenhagen, Ærøskøbing and Odense are best explored from the outskirts by bike or bike plus S-train, and many island roads are signposted cycle routes.
- Tape measure and vehicle data (length including rear rack, height) to hand – ferries and the Storebæltsbroen charge by length, and you are asked precisely when booking.
- Sturdy shoes with good tread – the steps and beach paths at Møns Klint and Stevns Klint are steep, slippery after rain and covered with loose flint.
- Red-light head torch and star chart – in the Møn and Nyord dark-sky area the night sky is exceptionally dark, and red light protects your night vision.
- Cool box or cool bag – smoked fish from the harbour smokehouses and cheese from farm shops will then keep until dinner at your pitch.
- Coins and a Danish parking app on your phone – harbour machines, showers and car parks at sights are often paid for this way.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
