In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Porto via Amarante, Peso da Régua and the N222 to Pinhão, through Vila Real and the Alvão mountains into Peneda-Gerês National Park, and on via Braga, Guimarães and Ponte de Lima to Viana do Castelo: around 520 kilometres on which terraced vineyards, oak forest and the Atlantic take turns.
The spirit of the route
The Douro Valley is built by people. Over generations, winegrowers stacked the schist into terraces until the slopes looked like contour lines, and down below the river winds in broad loops past quintas, railway tracks and rabelo boats. In September the air smells of fermenting must, tractors loaded with crates of grapes crawl along the N222, and in the evening the schist still gives off its warmth. From the sliding door you see vines to the horizon, white quinta façades and cypresses. Then the landscape tips over: beyond the Alvão it turns green and granite-grey, in Peneda-Gerês oaks stand over streams, garranos graze by the road, and Roman stones line the old Geira. At the end, the Lima valley opens out to the Atlantic. A route for people who like to drive slowly, taste in cellars and shop at markets.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Porto to Amarante (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- Out of Porto via the VCI onto the A4 towards Amarante; the Porto–Amarante section is tolled. After Valongo and Penafiel the landscape becomes hillier, and eucalyptus and vineyards (Vinho Verde) replace the suburbs. As a slower, toll-free alternative, the N15 runs via Penafiel with many village through-roads. A good 45 minutes of pure driving on the motorway, more like 1.5 hours on the N15; in Amarante the old town on the Tâmega is narrow and steep.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ribeira and Ponte Luís I in Porto: you walk across the upper deck of the double-decker iron bridge (next to the metro line) over to Vila Nova de Gaia; from the Serra do Pilar you see the old town on the hillside – best in the morning before you set off.
- Port wine cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia: the lodges of the big houses stand close to the riverbank, and tours with tastings usually last an hour; book ahead, as slots are scarce in season. The driver is better off tasting in the evening in Amarante.
- Amarante: the granite Ponte de São Gonçalo and the São Gonçalo monastery stand right on the Tâmega, next to the Museu Municipal Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso with works by the modernist painter from the region. The pastry shops sell the town’s convent sweets such as papos de anjo and lérias.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Amarante Camping lies north of the centre, about a 15- to 20-minute walk from the bridge; according to the operator and directories it has electric hook-ups and a sanitary block – check the season and motorhome service facilities in advance. If you put your Porto visit at the start, stay beforehand at the Parque de Autocaravanas of the Parque Biológico de Gaia (paid, with service point, few pitches) or at one of the campsites in Canidelo on the Gaia coast, such as Orbitur Canidelo.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Since the 2021 legal amendment (Art. 50-A Código da Estrada), Portugal allows overnight stays in a properly parked motorhome outside protected areas for a maximum of 48 hours in the same municipality, unless the municipality prohibits it. In Porto and Gaia this is not a good idea in practice: parking pressure, vehicle break-ins and municipal parking rules argue against it. In Amarante the local signs apply; riverside car parks are heavily used during the day.
- Insider tip for campers
- Don’t drive into Porto’s old town in a motorhome: the lanes are steep and narrow, parts of the historic centre have access restrictions with bollards, and multi-storey car parks have height limits. Metro and buses run from Gaia to the centre. Fill up and check your gas before leaving the Porto area – in the Douro Valley petrol stations are scarcer and rather more expensive.
2Stage 2: Amarante to Peso da Régua (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- From Amarante on the N101 over the foothills of the Marão mountains to Mesão Frio and down into the Douro Valley to Peso da Régua: winding, often without a hard shoulder, with gradients and narrow village through-roads, but well surfaced. If you want it faster, take the A4 through the Túnel do Marão (toll-free since 1 January 2025) and the A24 to Régua. In the evening, the detour to the Miradouro de São Leonardo de Galafura, around 12 km north of Régua, up narrow municipal roads. Pure driving time 1.5 to 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Descent to Mesão Frio: beyond the pass the first view of the terraces on the Douro opens up; this is where the legally demarcated wine region begins, whose upper part has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site as the Alto Douro Vinhateiro since 2001. Lay-bys are scarce – only stop where the motorhome leaves the carriageway clear.
- Miradouro de São Leonardo de Galafura: a viewpoint with a chapel on a mountain spur above the river, from which you look upstream and downstream over loops and terraces; the poet Miguel Torga dedicated a text to the spot, which you can read there. Most beautiful in the late afternoon, when the light falls sideways onto the slopes.
- Museu do Douro in Peso da Régua: the museum on the riverbank explains terrace building, the wine trade and the history of the rabelo boats that once carried the casks to Porto. One to two hours is enough – ideal on a hot afternoon.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Parque de Pernoita de Autocaravanas in Peso da Régua, right on the river beneath the road bridges: according to directories around 28 pitches, electricity, fresh water, grey and black water disposal, open all year, for a small fee; no showers and no shade. The bridge above carries traffic, and you hear it at night. Check conditions in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Galafura lies outside Natura 2000 areas, so an overnight stay at the viewpoint car park would in principle be conceivable under Art. 50-A, but the area is small, sloping and taken up by visitors in the evening; municipal signs take priority, and chairs and awnings are off-limits anyway. Many quintas in the valley are private land: overnight stays only with explicit permission.
- Insider tip for campers
- The access road to Galafura is narrow, with oncoming traffic and walls along the edge; with vehicles over about 7 m, drive it in daylight and don’t come back after sunset. In Régua, take care of water and cassette at the aire – the next stations along the river are few and far between.
3Stage 3: Peso da Régua to Vila Real (via Pinhão) (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- Across the bridge to the south bank and upstream on the N222 to Pinhão: around 27 km close to the water, with bends, short narrow spots at rock outcrops and village through-roads such as Folgosa; 50 to 70 km/h is realistic, and during the harvest you share the road with tractors and vans. Across the bridge to Pinhão, then up the slopes on the N323 to Sabrosa and on to Vila Real, passing the Palácio de Mateus along the way. Pure driving time around 1.5 hours, a whole day with a quinta visit.
- Highlights & must-sees
- N222 and a quinta visit: between Régua and Pinhão there are several quintas with visitor centres, such as Quinta do Seixo high above the road; tastings and tours by reservation only, and with a motorhome ask about parking in advance. During the harvest from mid-September to early October many estates are fully booked.
- Pinhão station and the river: the small station on the Douro line is clad in azulejo pictures of winegrowing and landscape; excursion boats leave from the quay, and short trips take about an hour. The village is small, and parking for long vehicles is scarce.
- Palácio de Mateus near Vila Real: a Baroque manor house with a reflecting pool and gardens, including a cedar tunnel; house and gardens can be visited for a fee – allow 1.5 hours. Many people know the façade from the label of a well-known rosé wine.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Parque de Campismo de Vila Real on the edge of the Corgo gorge, around a quarter of an hour on foot to the centre: according to the operator and OSM with electricity, showers, laundry facilities and its own Zona de Caravanas with service point. Check season and prices in advance. In Pinhão itself there is no campsite that can be recommended with confidence.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): By the river at Pinhão and in the lay-bys of the N222, overnight stays make no sense because of lack of space, traffic and municipal rules. If you want to experience the valley at night, ask about quintas that take in motorhomers in return for buying wine or a fee; the aire apps list individual offers – check the condition and access (often steep, gravelled) beforehand.
- Insider tip for campers
- The road up to the Miradouro de Casal de Loivos above Pinhão is very narrow and steep; with a large motorhome, stay at the bottom and walk (a good 4 km uphill) or take a local taxi. In summer the valley regularly reaches 40 °C: drive early, rest in the shade at midday and stock up on plenty of water.
4Stage 4: Vila Real to Gerês (Peneda-Gerês National Park) (approx. 125 km)
- The drive
- From Vila Real on the N304 over the Alvão mountains to Mondim de Basto: a narrow mountain road with hairpins, granite boulders and heathland – go slowly in fog. Continue via Cabeceiras de Basto and Vieira do Minho on minor roads to the Caniçada dam and along the reservoir to Gerês (Vila do Gerês). The faster variant runs via the A24 and A7; the A7 is tolled. Pure driving time around 2.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Fisgas de Ermelo in Alvão Natural Park: the River Olo plunges in several cascades over quartzite steps which together rank among the highest waterfalls in Portugal. From the viewpoint above Ermelo the view takes half an hour; the paths down to the pools are steep and often dry in late summer.
- Lamas de Olo: a granite village on the Alvão plateau with thatched roofs and watermills, a short stop along the way; leave the motorhome on the edge of the village.
- Caniçada reservoir: the long, green reservoir between the Gerês and Cabreira mountains is the gateway to the national park, with bathing spots and boat hire near Rio Caldo. In the evening, haze lies over the water.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Parque de Campismo de Cerdeira in Campo do Gerês, around 5 km north-west of Vila do Gerês as the crow flies but considerably further by road, on the edge of the national park, with pitches under oaks, a restaurant and bungalows; according to directories with service point – check the season in advance. Closer to the village, the Parque de Campismo do Vidoeiro lies in the woods north of Vila do Gerês, with basic facilities. Mondim de Basto has a municipal campsite as a stopover.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Peneda-Gerês National Park is a protected area and a Natura 2000 site: overnight stays and leaving motorhomes outside expressly permitted sites are prohibited under Art. 50-A, with fines of €120 to €600 for the overnight stay. The car parks on the Caniçada shore and at the waterfalls are day car parks and are checked. The ban also applies in the Alvão (natural park).
- Insider tip for campers
- The N304 over the Alvão and the roads around the Caniçada are narrow and winding; with long vehicles, go slowly and sound your horn before blind bends. Fill up and shop in Vieira do Minho or Rio Caldo – in Vila do Gerês the choice is limited and parking is scarce in season.
5Stage 5: Gerês to Braga (via Mata da Albergaria) (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- From Vila do Gerês on the N308-1 up to the Portela de Leonte and through the oak forest of the Mata da Albergaria to the Spanish border at the Portela do Homem; back the same way (a good 25 km there and back, narrow, partly cobbled, with few passing places). Then via Campo do Gerês to the Vilarinho das Furnas dam and via Terras de Bouro and Amares to Braga. Pure driving time around 2 hours, a long day with a hike on the Geira.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Mata da Albergaria and the Geira: through one of the oldest oak forests in the country runs the Roman Via Nova (Geira) from Braga to Astorga; numerous milestones stand along the road and near the Portela do Homem. A hike on the cobbled section takes one to two hours; for this the vehicle stays in the car park at the Portela do Homem, as you may not stop in the forest itself.
- Portela do Homem: at the border crossing the Rio Homem tumbles over granite steps into a pool; in summer it is crowded, in September quieter. Swim at your own risk – the rocks are slippery.
- Vilarinho das Furnas: beneath the reservoir lies a communal village flooded in 1972; when the water is low at the end of summer, walls and lanes reappear. A museum in Campo do Gerês tells its story.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Parque de Campismo e Caravanismo Municipal de Braga at the Parque da Ponte south of the centre, around 20 minutes on foot to the old town; check facilities, season and condition with the city in advance. Alternatively the Parque de Caravanas de Barcelos (municipal aire, around 20 km west) or go straight on to the campsite at the Penha near Guimarães (stage 6).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Mata da Albergaria overnight stays are of course off-limits, and within the forest stopping and parking along the road are also prohibited; you park at the Portela do Homem. In Braga, overnight stays within the city are not recommended; the large car park at Bom Jesus is a day car park at a pilgrimage site – observe the signs.
- Insider tip for campers
- Driving through the Mata da Albergaria is subject to a fee in summer: on behalf of the ICNF, ADERE Peneda-Gerês charges €1.50 per vehicle per day from June to September, daily from 11 am to 6 pm, regardless of vehicle type; in 2025 the rule ran from 14 June to 14 September, with checkpoints at Portela do Homem, Bouça da Mó and Portela de Leonte. The exact dates change from year to year – check with ADERE or the ICNF in advance. Driving before 11 am saves waiting at the checkpoints; hikers and cyclists come along in the opposite lane.
6Stage 6: Braga to Guimarães (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Braga on the N103-3 up to Bom Jesus do Monte and on to the Sameiro, then via minor roads to the Citânia de Briteiros and to Guimarães; the mountain road is steep but wide. The direct connection runs via the tolled A11. Pure driving time around one hour; allow half a day for Guimarães.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Bom Jesus do Monte: the Baroque stairway with the fountains of the five senses leads up to the church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2019. The funicular from 1882 runs on water ballast; walking up or down takes half an hour.
- Citânia de Briteiros: an Iron Age hilltop settlement with the foundations of round houses, streets and a bathhouse on a hill between Braga and Guimarães; the circuit takes an hour, with little shade and access via a narrow road.
- Old town of Guimarães: castle, Paço dos Duques de Bragança and the squares Largo da Oliveira and Praça de Santiago with granite houses and wooden balconies; the centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, since 2023 including the old tanners’ quarter of Couros. Two to three hours on foot.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Parque de Campismo da Penha on Guimarães’ local mountain among granite boulders and pines, reached via a steep mountain road; the cable car (Teleférico da Penha) runs down to the centre. Check the season, motorhome facilities and the cable car’s operating hours with the operator.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the Penha and at the Sameiro the car parks are day car parks at pilgrimage sites, not intended for the night; in Guimarães itself the centre is unsuitable for motorhomes. As a rule, the 48-hour rule of Art. 50-A applies unless the municipality signposts otherwise.
- Insider tip for campers
- Don’t drive into the historic centre of Guimarães in a motorhome; take the cable car from the campsite or park on the edge of town. In Braga and Guimarães, large supermarkets on the outskirts have car parks with enough headroom – good for stocking up before the Minho.
7Stage 7: Guimarães to Ponte de Lima (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- From Guimarães via the A11 to Braga and north on the A3 to Ponte de Lima (both tolled, with toll barriers on the A3), or on the N101 through the Minho’s vineyard and smallholder country with many roundabouts and villages. Around 45 minutes on the motorway, 1.5 hours on the country road.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Roman-medieval bridge of Ponte de Lima: the long stone bridge over the Lima is the landmark of the town, which describes itself as the oldest town in Portugal with a charter (1125). The Portuguese Way of St James leads north over the bridge, and pilgrims cross here almost every day.
- Riverside market: the traditional market takes place on the sandy bank of the Lima every other Monday, with several hundred stalls for food, clothing, pottery, tools and baskets. Check the date in advance in the municipal calendar; in mid-September there are also the Feiras Novas, which draw big crowds.
- Ecovia do Lima: the cycle and footpath follows the river between Ponte de Lima and Viana; a section under plane trees and willows can be explored by bike in one to two hours.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Parque de Campismo da Quinta de Pentieiros a few kilometres west of Ponte de Lima in the rural hinterland; check facilities and season with the operator. Aire apps also list parking areas for motorhomes near the riverbank in Ponte de Lima; check service facilities, fees and closures on market days in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Lima floodplains are partly a Natura 2000 area, where the overnight ban of Art. 50-A applies. The sandy bank in Ponte de Lima is cleared on market days – observe signs and dates.
- Insider tip for campers
- On market Mondays the town is full from early morning, and the riverbank and access roads are taken: arrive the day before or only come in the afternoon. The A3 toll stations have barriers with cash and card payment; keep your ticket safe.
8Stage 8: Ponte de Lima to Viana do Castelo (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- On the N202 along the north bank of the Lima to Viana do Castelo, through villages with maize fields and vine pergolas; some village through-roads are narrow. The faster A27 is tolled. In Viana, cross the iron bridge to the south bank to the Cabedelo. Pure driving time around 40 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Santa Luzia: the basilica on the town’s local mountain overlooks the Lima estuary and the Atlantic; the view is widest from the dome. Access via a winding mountain road or by funicular from the centre – the motorhome can stay below.
- Old town and Gil Eannes: Praça da República with a Renaissance fountain and the Misericórdia, plus the former hospital ship Gil Eannes, which accompanied the cod fleet off Newfoundland and now lies in the harbour as a museum. Walking tour two hours.
- Iron bridge over the Lima: the road and railway bridge by the Eiffel company, opened in 1878, connects the centre and the south bank; a short walk with views of the shipyard and the estuary. On Cabedelo beach a strong north wind often blows, and kitesurfers and windsurfers meet here.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Orbitur Viana do Castelo lies on the south bank in the pine forest behind Cabedelo beach, with sanitary facilities and electricity; check the season, service facilities and length limits in advance. The former VianaCamping site in the same pine forest is being converted into a facility with glamping and motorhome pitches, with opening only announced for 2027; the status of the Inatel site at the Cabedelo is unclear. OSM also lists a motorhome area at the Cabedelo – check its status on site.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The coast between Caminha and Espinho is subject to a coastal management plan (POOC); beach car parks and dunes are off-limits for overnight stays, and the police also check at the Cabedelo. In built-up areas away from the coast, the 48-hour rule only applies where the municipality does not signpost otherwise.
- Insider tip for campers
- Diesel is often cheaper in nearby Spain (Tui, via the A3 at Valença) – if you are continuing to Galicia, fill up there. The A28 has been toll-free between Neiva and Darque since 2025, other sections have not; on purely electronic routes without a device or registration you risk a fine.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Legal situation: Art. 50-A of the Código da Estrada, as amended by Lei 66/2021, distinguishes between parking (estacionamento), overnight stays with occupants at night (pernoita) and aparcamento, i.e. occupying more space than the parking bay provides. Overnight stays are permitted outside protected areas for up to 48 hours in the same municipality, unless the municipality prohibits them; this limit does not apply at designated sites.
- Overnight stays and leaving vehicles outside permitted sites are prohibited in Natura 2000 areas, protected areas and coastal areas with a coastal management plan (POOC). On this route that affects Peneda-Gerês National Park, Alvão Natural Park, parts of the Lima valley and the coast near Viana. Fines: overnight stays €60 to €300, in Natura 2000 and protected areas €120 to €600.
- Camping behaviour is off-limits everywhere outside campsites: awning, table, chairs, barbecue and extended parts count as aparcamento or camping; waste water may only be emptied at service stations. In the Douro Valley many areas are private property of the quintas – overnight stays only with permission.
- Wildfires: during the critical fire period set each year (usually 1 July to 30 September, extended if necessary) and when fire danger is high, open fires, barbecues outside approved facilities and fireworks are prohibited in rural areas. After the fires of recent summers, trails in Peneda-Gerês may be closed; check warning levels with the IPMA and closures with the ICNF, emergency number 112.
- Legal overnight stays: parques de campismo (campsites), the municipalities’ Áreas de Serviço de Autocaravanas (ASA) and private aires. Useful resources are park4night, Campercontact and the Portuguese aire directories; many municipal sites are free or cheap but have few pitches.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service points are called “Área de Serviço de Autocaravanas” (ASA); in the Douro Valley and in Gerês the stations are far apart, and good points are Régua, the Vila Real campsite and the sites near Gerês and Viana. Empty cassette and grey water only there.
- Water: tap water in Portugal is generally drinkable (“água potável”); fountains in villages and at pilgrimage sites often bear the notice “água não controlada” – then don’t drink it. In high summer, drive into the Douro Valley with a full tank.
- Gas: Portuguese exchange cylinders (Galp, Repsol, Rubis and others) are only available in exchange for Portuguese cylinders with their own connector. Autogas (GPL Auto) is offered by many petrol stations on motorways and in towns; for refillable cylinders carry an adapter set – in Portugal the dish adapter is usually needed.
- Shopping and fuel: large supermarkets with car parks without height barriers can be found in Amarante, Vila Real, Braga, Guimarães and Viana; in Pinhão, Gerês and the mountain villages there are only small shops. Diesel is often cheaper across the border in Spain.
- Climate: in the Douro Valley summer temperatures around 40 °C are common; in Gerês and the Minho it rains considerably more than in the south, and nights get cool. Plan for ventilation, a shady spot and water reserves.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 50 km/h in built-up areas, 90 outside built-up areas, 100 on expressways (vias reservadas a automóveis) and 120 km/h on motorways. Car-and-caravan combinations: 70 outside built-up areas, 80 on expressways, 100 on motorways. Motorhomes over 3.5 t are subject to the lower limits for heavy vehicles (usually 80 km/h outside built-up areas) – check the vehicle category in your papers. Alcohol limit 0.5 ‰ (novice and professional drivers 0.2 ‰); mobile phones at the wheel only with a hands-free kit.
- Tolls: Portugal has routes with barriers (e.g. A3, A4 Porto–Amarante) and purely electronic routes with gantries (“Electronic toll only”). Since 1 January 2025, among others the A4 Transmontana with the Túnel do Marão, the A24 and the A28 sections Esposende–Antas and Neiva–Darque are toll-free; the A7, A11, A27 and other sections remain tolled. For foreign vehicles: Easytoll at selected border crossings (the number plate is linked to a credit card), registration with Via Verde Visitors or a rented Via Verde device; some EETS and Spanish Via-T devices also work – check with the provider.
- Vehicle classes: class 1 applies to two-axle vehicles with a height of less than 1.10 m above the front axle, class 2 to two-axle vehicles from 1.10 m, class 3 to three-axle vehicles. Most motorhomes fall into class 2 and pay considerably more than cars; for certain vehicles with a Via Verde device there are special rules for billing as class 1, which among other things require a height above the front axle of under 1.30 m; most motorhomes do not meet this – clarify individual cases with Via Verde in advance.
- Low-emission zones: there is no sticker-based low-emission zone on this route; in the historic centres of Porto, Guimarães and Braga, however, access is restricted by bollards, cameras or residents-only rules. Park outside with the motorhome.
- Equipment: a warning triangle is mandatory, a high-visibility vest strongly recommended; mark loads protruding from rear carriers, and number plates and lights must not be covered. In Gerês and the Alvão, brake carefully on wet granite cobbles and leaves; fog comes in quickly – use dipped headlights in poor visibility. Emergency number 112.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Via Verde device or Easytoll/Via Verde Visitors registration with a credit card – on purely electronic toll routes there is no barrier where you can pay.
- Reflective thermal screens for the windscreen and side windows – in the Douro Valley, 40 °C heats up the living area, and awnings are not allowed outside campsites.
- Gas adapter (dish) for GPL stations and two full cylinders when you enter the country – Portuguese exchange cylinders don’t fit.
- Sturdy hiking boots with a good tread – the Geira, Fisgas de Ermelo and stream paths in Gerês are cobbled or rocky and slippery when wet.
- Binoculars – in Gerês you can see garranos, golden eagles and, with a bit of luck, Iberian ibex; in the Douro Valley it pays to look across at the quintas opposite.
- Small change and a credit card to hand – for barrier tolls, the summer fee in the Mata da Albergaria and coin machines at service points.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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