In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the ferry in Palma via Valldemossa, Sóller and Sa Calobra, Formentor, Alcúdia and Artà to Cala Mondragó and the salt pans of Es Trenc: around 500 kilometres on an island that tolerates campers more than it welcomes them – rewarding with a small van, wearing with a large motorhome.
The spirit of the route
Mallorca in your own vehicle is a journey at two speeds. On the Ma-10 the van crawls between holm oaks, dry-stone walls and olive trees older than any monastery on the island, and beneath the driver’s door the coast drops hundreds of metres into the sea. Goat bells, cyclists in columns, the scent of broom on Puig Major. In the morning in the Bay of Alcúdia the light lies low over the reeds of the Albufera, purple herons stand in the canal, and from the sliding door you see the mountains of Formentor like a ragged spine. In the south the air smells of salt and pine resin, and the water of the calas shifts from emerald to turquoise. But the island is tight, crowded and short of water and pitches. If you want to be happy here with a camper, travel in spring or autumn, drive small, plan your nights – and leave the vehicle parked at the most beautiful places.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Palma (ferry) to Platja de Muro via Valldemossa, Deià and Sóller (approx. 105 km)
- The drive
- From the ferry terminal take the Vía de Cintura (Ma-20) out of the city, then the Ma-1110 through almond and carob groves up to Valldemossa. From there follow the Ma-10 along the steep coast: narrow, twisting, with no hard shoulder, rock overhangs and many cyclists, through Deià and down to Sóller. Return through the toll-free Sóller tunnel (Ma-11) towards Bunyola, then via the Ma-13 to Inca and on into the Bay of Alcúdia. Pure driving time is around 2.5 hours; after a night ferry it is quite doable if you set off early.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Reial Cartoixa in Valldemossa, the Carthusian monastery where Chopin and George Sand spent the winter of 1838/39 – quietest at opening time in the morning.
- Deià, with the house of the poet Robert Graves (Ca n’Alluny) on the Ma-10 and the view across the terraces to the coast.
- Sóller: the square in front of the church of Sant Bartomeu, the wooden tram down to Port de Sóller and the citrus groves in the valley.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: As far as we know, there is no campsite for motorhomes and no official motorhome area in Sóller or anywhere in the Serra de Tramuntana – which is why the stage ends in the Bay of Alcúdia. Camping Platja Blava on the Alcúdia–Artà road near Platja de Muro is regarded as one of the very few regular campsites on the island that also accept motorhomes and caravans, close to the beach and the Albufera. Check facilities, opening seasons, vehicle lengths and availability directly with the site in advance; book early in high summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Serra de Tramuntana is a protected natural area and a UNESCO World Heritage Site; in Valldemossa, Deià and Sóller the few car parks are overloaded during the day, and overnighting at the roadside or at viewpoints along the Ma-10 is not tolerated. No wild camping on the coast below Deià – the access roads to the calas are too narrow for campers anyway.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Valldemossa use the large pay car parks at the edge of the village and do not drive into the centre. In Deià the Ma-10 runs through the village as a narrow through road – do not stop, do not turn. In Sóller leave the camper on the outskirts and take the tram to the harbour. The Ma-10 south of Valldemossa towards Andratx is only worthwhile with a small van: even narrower, with pinch points in Banyalbufar and Estellencs.
2Stage 2: Platja de Muro to Platja de Muro via Lluc and Sa Calobra (approx. 125 km)
- The drive
- Go via Alcúdia to Pollença and climb the Ma-10 in many bends to the Santuari de Lluc; continue past the Gorg Blau reservoir to the turn-off of the Ma-2141 to Sa Calobra. This dead-end road drops over about 12 kilometres from just under 700 metres to the sea, with dozens of hairpins and the famous 270-degree knot “Nus de sa Corbata”. Return by the same road to Lluc, then via Caimari to Inca and the bay. Allow 3.5 to 4 hours of pure driving time – a day to do only with a compact vehicle and on a dry road.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Santuari de Lluc, the island’s pilgrimage monastery in a high valley beneath limestone walls, with the boys’ choir of the Escolania.
- Walk from Sa Calobra through two rock tunnels to the mouth of the Torrent de Pareis, where the gorge meets the sea between 200-metre walls.
- Viewpoint at the Coll dels Reis above the bends of the Ma-2141 – stop only briefly at the roadside because of the traffic.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Second night on the same site in Platja de Muro. The alternative is the municipal motorhome area in Son Serra de Marina (municipality of Santa Margalida), in operation since the end of July 2025: 21 pitches on a fenced, CCTV-monitored site, fresh water, waste water disposal and electricity, booking and payment by app, stay limited to ten consecutive nights. Check current operation and conditions before you travel.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Lluc lie the “zones d’acampada” of the Island Council – they are intended for tents with a permit, not for motorhomes. In Sa Calobra the car parks are pay-and-display and full from late morning; overnighting there is not an option.
- Insider tip for campers
- Numerous coaches use the Ma-2141 in season; in the bends they need both lanes, and reversing against the rock face is the most delicate situation for campers on the whole island. Drive down before 9 am and back up before 11 am. Whether length or time restrictions for coaches or large motorhomes apply at times on the Ma-2141 or the Ma-10 is discussed again and again – watch the signs at the turn-off and the traffic reports of the Consell de Mallorca. A comfortable alternative: the excursion boat from Port de Sóller to Sa Calobra.
3Stage 3: Platja de Muro to Platja de Muro via Port de Pollença, Formentor and Alcúdia (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- A short stage on wide coastal roads: via Alcúdia to Port de Pollença, up to Pollença and back to Alcúdia. In summer the Formentor peninsula is best experienced by bus. About an hour of pure driving time; the rest of the day belongs to walks and excursions.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Formentor peninsula with the Mirador Es Colomer, the beach of Formentor and the lighthouse at the cape above steep limestone cliffs.
- Pollença: the 365 steps of the Calvary up to the chapel, the view over the bay and the Roman bridge on the edge of town; market on Sunday.
- Alcúdia: the fully preserved medieval town wall and the excavations of the Roman city of Pollentia right outside the gate.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Third night in Platja de Muro or Son Serra de Marina. The municipality of Muro has announced a simple area with fresh water and disposal in the town of Muro (near the former Escola Graduada, not on the coast); check beforehand whether it is in operation and on what terms. In Pollença, Port de Pollença and Alcúdia there is no campsite for motorhomes.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Port de Pollença and Alcúdia have complained for years about campers on beach car parks and promenades; the Policía Local checks, and the parking rules on the coast are applied strictly. Since 1 October 2026 a motorhome may park wherever parking is allowed, but maximum parking times, zones and coastal rules of the municipalities still apply. Muro has also announced a ban on parking vehicles over 5 m in length and 2 m in height on the roads close to the sea at Platja de Muro – watch the signs. On the Formentor peninsula overnighting is taboo.
- Insider tip for campers
- For Formentor, in 2026 an access regulation by the DGT applies on the Ma-2210 from 15 May to 18 October between 10 am and 10 pm: cars may drive to the beach car park at km 8 only while spaces are free; the section to the lighthouse is open only to authorised vehicles, bicycles and the bus, and violations are fined. Take TIB line 334 (Alcúdia – Port de Pollença – lighthouse), which stops at the Mirador Es Colomer and at the beach. Outside the season the road is open, but narrow, and the car park at the lighthouse is too small for motorhomes. Check the DGT website in good time for the 2027 regulation.
4Stage 4: Platja de Muro to Son Serra de Marina via Artà (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- Along the bay past Can Picafort, then inland through fields with windmills and fig trees to Artà. From there a detour to Colònia de Sant Pere on the Bay of Alcúdia and back via Artà to Son Serra. Well-built country roads, narrow lanes in Artà itself. About 1.5 hours of driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Artà: climb from the old town to the walled pilgrimage church of Sant Salvador with views over the Llevant mountains; market on Tuesday.
- Ses Païsses on the edge of Artà, a Talayotic settlement from the Bronze and Iron Ages with a Cyclopean gateway among holm oaks.
- Parc Natural de s’Albufera near Platja de Muro: boardwalks and observation hides in the largest wetland in the Balearics, best in the early morning.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Municipal motorhome area Son Serra de Marina with fresh water and waste disposal and electricity, booking by app – this is the most reliable service point on the route. The fallback remains Camping Platja Blava.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the end of 2023 Santa Margalida banned by ordinance the parking and overnighting of motorhomes and caravans in the built-up areas of Can Picafort and Son Serra de Marina; the area in Son Serra is the official answer to this. The Parc Natural de la Península de Llevant north of Artà is a protected area: its tent zone s’Arenalet is reserved for hikers with a permit, and motorhomes have no business on the tracks to the coves.
- Insider tip for campers
- The road from Artà to the Ermita de Betlem is narrow and unsuitable for large vehicles; better to go on foot or by bike. In Artà park on the edge of town – the old town is a maze of one-way streets. Before driving south, empty all tanks and fill up with fresh water: as far as Palma there is no public station that we can name with certainty.
5Stage 5: Son Serra de Marina to Cala Mondragó via Porto Cristo (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- Via Artà and the Ma-15 to Manacor, then to the east coast at Porto Cristo and along the Ma-4014 and the coastal roads via Cales de Mallorca and Portopetro south to the Mondragó natural park. Well built, with many roundabouts and speed bumps in the urbanisations. Just under 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Coves del Drac in Porto Cristo: stalactite cave with the underground Llac Martel and a short boat concert – timed-entry tickets.
- Parc Natural de Mondragó: the bays of S’Amarador and Caló des Burgit with pines and sandy beach, linked by a short coastal path.
- Portopetro, a small fishing and yacht harbour with limestone rocks and boat moorings.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In the south and east of Mallorca there is no campsite that accepts motorhomes and no public motorhome area that we can reliably recommend. A few fincas and agroturismos offer pitches via pitch platforms, some without disposal – check availability, permits and facilities in advance. If you would rather not, do this stage as a day trip from Son Serra or Platja de Muro.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Mondragó natural park is a protected area: its car parks are intended for day visitors, are pay-and-display in season and are not meant for overnighting. On the beach and in the coastal strip the Spanish Coastal Law (Ley de Costas) also prohibits any camping. In towns the rule is: sleep in the vehicle only where parking is allowed according to local signs, without awning, chairs or levelling supports.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Porto Cristo the car park at the Coves del Drac is the most convenient place for large vehicles. Do not drive to Cala Varques or other calas without paved car parks: the access roads end on farm tracks, and roadside parking leads to towing and trouble with residents. At Mondragó arrive early – the car park at S’Amarador fills up in summer by mid-morning.
6Stage 6: Cala Mondragó to Es Trenc via Santanyí and Cap de ses Salines (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- To Santanyí, then south to Cap de ses Salines and via Ses Salines and Colònia de Sant Jordi to the flat coast of Es Trenc. Country roads through dry-stone walls, almond trees and wind turbines; a narrow dead-end road at the cape. About an hour of driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Santanyí: old town of honey-yellow marès sandstone, the church of Sant Andreu and the weekly market on Wednesday and Saturday.
- Lighthouse at Cap de ses Salines, the island’s southern cape, with a view of Cabrera – footpaths in both directions along the rocky coast.
- Es Trenc and the Salobrar de Campos: a kilometres-long, undeveloped sandy beach with dunes and behind it salt pans where flor de sal is harvested and flamingos rest.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Here too, no campsite for motorhomes. Possible are private finca pitches in the hinterland of Campos and Ses Salines (check in advance) – or the way back to the Bay of Alcúdia, about an hour’s drive via the Ma-19 and the Ma-13.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Es Trenc belongs to the Es Trenc–Salobrar de Campos natural park; overnighting on the beach car parks and at the access roads to Ses Covetes and Sa Ràpita is unwelcome and monitored. The municipality of Campos has complained about caravans and campers parked uncontrolled in the coastal area – expect fines. At Cap de ses Salines the small car park is often full during the day, and overnighting there is out of the question.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Santanyí do not drive into the centre on market days – the lanes are then taken up by stalls. The pay-and-display beach car parks of Es Trenc (Ses Covetes, Sa Ràpita, Ses Salines) are usually usable by motorhomes only at the edge; it is emptier in the late afternoon, and the light over the salt pans is most beautiful then. Cala Figuera and Cala Llombards have narrow access roads – only with a small van.
7Stage 7: Es Trenc to Palma (ferry) (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- Via Campos and Llucmajor on the Ma-19 to Palma, then via the Vía de Cintura to the port. Expressway, heavy traffic towards evening. Just under an hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- The cathedral La Seu above the Parc de la Mar, most beautiful in the evening light seen from the water.
- Castell de Bellver, the round Gothic castle above the bay – the access road is narrow, so better on foot or by bus.
- Mercat de l’Olivar for a last shop of cheese, sobrassada and olives before the ferry.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: There is no campsite and no official motorhome area in Palma; plan the city as half a day before an evening ferry. If you need a night, drive back to the Bay of Alcúdia and visit Palma by train: the SFM trains run from Sa Pobla, Inca and Manacor to the Estació Intermodal in the centre.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Palma’s civic ordinance (Ordenanza Cívica, final text adopted in April 2025) tolerates sleeping in the vehicle but prohibits anything that looks like camping: supports, awning, tables, chairs or a grill next to the vehicle, noise and smells spreading outside; the same vehicle may stay at the same place for at most ten days in a row. Maximum parking times and zones apply in addition. Overnighting in Palma is still not a good idea – parking space is scarce, and the city checks.
- Insider tip for campers
- Palma’s low-emission zone (ZBE) in the centre is monitored by camera. Vehicles with foreign plates are not recognised automatically: they must be registered online with the city (Mobipalma) at least five calendar days before entering, with ID, vehicle registration document, proof of Euro standard and proof of arrival on the island such as the ferry booking; the permit is valid for 30 days. Until the end of 2026 petrol vehicles from Euro 3 and diesels from Euro 4 are sufficient, from 2027 petrol vehicles need Euro 4 and diesels Euro 6 – the end for many older motorhomes. Easiest: park outside the ZBE and go into the centre by bus or on foot.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Basic Spanish principle: sleeping in a legally parked vehicle is allowed, but camping with anything that goes beyond the vehicle’s outline is not. Since 1 October 2026 Real Decreto 518/2026 (new Art. 92.4 of the Reglamento General de Circulación) expressly regulates when a motorhome is correctly parked: no parts extending beyond the vehicle outline, standing only on the tyres (safety wedges allowed), no discharge of liquids. Municipalities may still regulate parking times, zones and maximum duration, but after the reform may not penalise solely because of the vehicle type; rules for protected areas and coasts apply regardless.
- On Mallorca Balearic tourism law applies as well: camping is allowed only on approved campsites and in designated zones, free camping is not. The tent zones of the Island Council (for example near Lluc or s’Arenalet) are intended for hikers with a tent and a permit, not for vehicles.
- Municipal bans you should know on this route: Santa Margalida prohibits parking and overnighting of motorhomes in Can Picafort and Son Serra de Marina, Muro has announced something similar for the roads near the sea at Platja de Muro, Palma in its civic ordinance prohibits camping on public land and limits standing at the same place to ten days, and many coastal towns such as Pollença, Alcúdia and Campos check beach car parks. How these rules are enforced since Real Decreto 518/2026 may change – signs on the spot are decisive.
- Protected areas on the route: Paratge Natural Serra de Tramuntana, natural parks s’Albufera, Península de Llevant, Mondragó and Es Trenc–Salobrar de Campos. There, car parks are day car parks; overnighting, barbecues and fires are taboo. In the coastal strip the Ley de Costas also prohibits any form of camping.
- Infrastructure is thin: one regular campsite with motorhome pitches (Platja Blava near Platja de Muro), the municipal area in Son Serra de Marina and a simple area in the town of Muro announced by Muro. Other municipalities have floated similar areas – check the current situation on park4night, Campercontact or Caramaps and take comments about evictions seriously.
- The rental camper debate: as the number of rented vans on the island grows, so do complaints about waste water, rubbish and occupied beach car parks. Ibiza and Formentera already limit vehicle entry in season, and Menorca initiated in 2025 a limit on motorhomes without a campsite booking. In June 2026 the Consell de Mallorca approved a bill intended to limit the entry of vehicles of non-residents and introduce a fee from the 2027 season; the Balearic parliament still has to agree, and the cap and fee are not yet fixed – check before booking the ferry whether new rules apply.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Supply and disposal are the island’s bottleneck: reliable only at Camping Platja Blava (for guests), at the area in Son Serra de Marina (after booking) and possibly in Muro. Plan your tanks so that you return there every two to three days; in the south there is, as far as we know, no public station.
- Never empty grey water and cassettes into drains, at the roadside or into public toilets on beaches – this is the main reason for bans on Mallorca, and since Real Decreto 518/2026 discharged liquid turns parking into camping officially.
- Water is scarce on Mallorca: many municipalities rely on desalination plants and depleted aquifers, and saving rules apply in dry years. Tap water is often hard and salty in taste; for drinking most islanders buy bottled water. Fill the fresh water tank only at official points, not at beach showers.
- Gas: Spanish butane cylinders are available at many filling stations, but they need their own regulator; foreign exchange cylinders are not swapped. LPG (autogas) pumps are rare on the island and found mainly in the Palma area – arrive with full tanks and a suitable adapter.
- Electricity: only at the campsite and at a few points of the municipal areas. For longer tours plan sufficient solar capacity and battery capacity; absorption fridges struggle with the heat in summer.
- Ecotasa: the Balearic tourist tax (Impost sobre estades turístiques) is charged per person and night in tourist accommodation – this includes campsites. There it currently amounts to €1 in high season (May to October) and €0.25 in low season (November to April), each plus VAT; children under 16 are exempt, and from the ninth night at the same place the amount is halved. If you sleep in a legally parked vehicle or arrive by ferry, you do not pay it; ask the operator whether municipal motorhome areas levy it. Increases are discussed again and again – check the current situation.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Ferry: Baleària, Trasmed and GNV connect Barcelona and Valencia with Palma, Baleària also Dénia with Palma (partly with a stop in Ibiza); Trasmed also sails from Maó (Menorca) to Palma. Alcúdia is served mainly from Menorca (Ciutadella); check mainland connections there seasonally. Motorhome fares depend on length and height – state the exact dimensions including rear carrier and roof box, otherwise you risk extra charges at the port. Close gas cylinders during the crossing; staying on the vehicle deck during the voyage is not allowed, so book a cabin or reclining seats for night ferries. Pets in kennels or pet-friendly cabins, depending on the shipping line.
- Speed limits under Spanish law: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 120 km/h on autovías and 90 km/h on country roads, over 3.5 t and combinations 90 and 80 km/h respectively. In built-up areas with one lane in each direction the limit is 30 km/h. On Mallorca the Ma-13 (Palma–Alcúdia) and the Ma-19 (Palma–Llucmajor) are expressways, everything else is country roads.
- No motorway toll and no vignette on Mallorca; the Sóller tunnel (Ma-11) is toll-free.
- Low-emission zone: Palma has a camera-monitored ZBE in the centre; vehicles with foreign plates must be registered in advance (at least five days beforehand, valid for 30 days), otherwise a fine of €200 threatens. From 2027 the requirements rise to Euro 4 for petrol and Euro 6 for diesel.
- Access rules: Formentor (Ma-2210) is restricted in the 2026 season from 15 May to 18 October between 10 am and 10 pm; for Sa Calobra (Ma-2141) and the Ma-10 there is, as far as we know, no general length or time restriction, but for motorhomes over about 7 metres in length they are an ordeal for everyone involved. Overtake groups of cyclists only with 1.5 metres of clearance – this is mandatory in Spain and on the Tramuntana often possible only after kilometres.
- Equipment and conduct: overhanging rear carriers require the V-20 warning plate, a high-visibility vest is mandatory when getting out on the carriageway, and the connected V16 warning light is sensible for breakdowns. Alcohol limit 0.5 (novice drivers 0.3), mobile phone only hands-free.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- A second toilet cassette – disposal stations are so rare on Mallorca that a spare makes the difference between a relaxed tour and a daily detour to the Bay of Alcúdia.
- Printout of the ZBE registration for Palma, of the ferry booking and of the vehicle papers with Euro standard – the city requires proof of arrival on the island, such as the ferry booking.
- Solar panel or charging booster plus a battery reserve, because electricity is hard to come by outside the only campsite.
- Red-and-white warning plate V-20 and, if you bring bikes, a folding lock: cycle paths along the Bay of Alcúdia and to the Albufera are ideal for leaving the camper behind.
- Snorkel mask and water shoes for the rocky entry points at Cala Mondragó, Formentor and Cap de ses Salines.
- Compact binoculars for the birds of the Albufera and the Salobrar de Campos – purple herons, flamingos and Eleonora’s falcons.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
