In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
Around 460 kilometres from Williams Lake across the Chilcotin Plateau to the Bella Coola fjord: wide grazing land, the descent over “The Hill” and a valley where grizzlies hunt the salmon in autumn.
The spirit of the route
Highway 20 begins as an ordinary country road and ends in rainforest. Beyond Williams Lake it crosses the Fraser bridge onto the Chilcotin Plateau, wide grassland, poplars and pines, lakes with flocks of ducks and ranches that have been in family hands for generations. Beyond Anahim Lake the road climbs into the Coast Mountains, reaches about 1,500 metres on Heckman Pass and then drops on a steep section that locals call “The Hill” into the Bella Coola Valley within a few kilometres. There stand cedars, ferns and moss; the valley is damp and green, and the mountains rise right to the fjord. In autumn the rivers are full of salmon and the grizzlies that hunt them. The route is remote, with long stretches without mobile reception, but paved; it demands respect for the gradient, but not an off-road vehicle.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Williams Lake to Alexis Creek (approx. 115 km)
- The drive
- West on Highway 20 over the Fraser bridge and the steep ramp onto the Chilcotin Plateau, past Riske Creek and Hanceville to Alexis Creek. Paved, two-lane, speeds 90–100 km/h. Driving time about 1.5 hours, half a day with stops. Fuel stations in Williams Lake, possibly Riske Creek and Alexis Creek; rural opening hours shorter.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Farwell Canyon near Riske Creek: a gravel road (about 30 km) to the Chilcotin River with a bridge, sandstone hoodoos and dunes; the gravel access is not suitable for large motorhomes, check the condition beforehand.
- Chilcotin Plateau: grazing land and ranches, in summer horse herds and cattle by the road; wildlife (moose, coyotes, bald eagles) frequent.
- Alexis Creek: a small settlement with a shop and fuel station; the starting point for trips to the Chilcotin lakes.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Bull Canyon Provincial Park about 6 km west of Alexis Creek on Highway 20: a small, simple campground on the Chilcotin River (swimming is not recommended because of the cold, fast current); according to BC Parks the gate is locked roughly from 16 September to 14 May. Reservations at camping.bcparks.ca. Around Alexis Creek and Riske Creek there are also simple sites and Recreation Sites; access roads partly gravel.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In British Columbia, camping on Crown land is allowed for up to 14 days at the same place, outside parks, private land and reserves. The Chilcotin offers many simple spots at lakes and rivers; gravel access roads and washboard are common, and many areas belong to the Tsilhqot’in or to ranches, so watch for signs.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up in Williams Lake, fill your water and shop: in the Chilcotin there are only a few shops with a limited range. The ramp out of the Fraser Valley is steep; select your gear before the climb.
2Stage 2: Alexis Creek to Anahim Lake (approx. 200 km)
- The drive
- Continue west via Redstone, Chilanko Forks, Tatla Lake and Nimpo Lake to Anahim Lake. Highway 20 runs over a wide plateau with hills and short climbs, speeds 90–100 km/h, in settlements 50 km/h. Driving time about 3 hours, a full day with stops. Fuel stations in Tatla Lake, Nimpo Lake and Anahim Lake; check opening and stocks beforehand. Mobile reception only in individual places.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Puntzi Lake and Chilanko Forks: lakes and grazing land with good bird watching; anglers use the lakes for trout.
- Tatla Lake and the views of the Coast Mountains: in clear conditions glacier-capped mountains appear in the west.
- Nimpo Lake: a floatplane base (“floatplane capital”); sightseeing flights over Tweedsmuir North Park start from here; ask about prices and availability in advance.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Along the route there are simple sites at lakes: Recreation Sites at Puntzi Lake and Tatla Lake as well as private sites in Nimpo Lake and Anahim Lake; clarify operator, opening time and vehicle lengths in advance. No BC Parks campground directly on the highway between Hanceville and Anahim Lake.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Crown land and Recreation Sites are numerous in the Chilcotin; gravel access roads and soft tracks after rain. Do not overnight on reserves (Tsilhqot’in, Ulkatcho).
- Insider tip for campers
- Fuel stations are rare: check Anahim Lake or Tatla Lake, and never drive with less than a third of a tank. If you arrive towards evening, watch for livestock and wildlife on the road.
3Stage 3: Anahim Lake to Hagensborg (approx. 130 km)
- The drive
- From Anahim Lake west into the Coast Mountains: through forest and parkland to Heckman Pass (about 1,500 m), then over “The Hill” with a gradient of around 18% on the steepest section down into the Bella Coola Valley within a few kilometres. The road is paved but narrow, with switchbacks and undulations. Driving time about 2.5 hours. Heavy motorhomes and combinations: select a low gear, spare your brakes, use the pullouts. For vehicles with a high braking load and trailers, check the gradient in advance.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Heckman Pass: the highest point, with a view of the mountain ranges; in spring and late autumn there can still be snow here.
- The Hill: The descent is an experience in itself; let the vehicle cool down in the pullout at the top.
- Tweedsmuir South Provincial Park: The road crosses the park near the Atnarko Valley, with short trails to salmon spots; in autumn bears on the river.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Tweedsmuir South Provincial Park (Atnarko Campground and Fisheries Pool Campground) on Highway 20 in the valley by the Atnarko River; according to BC Parks the Atnarko Campground is closed in the main bear season from 1 September to 15 October, and restrictions also apply to Fisheries Pool. For a trip in September, clarify with BC Parks (camping.bcparks.ca) in advance what is open. In Hagensborg there are additional private sites.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the park and at salmon rivers free camping is prohibited; on Crown land outside the park the usual BC rules apply, but sites are rare in the Bella Coola Valley. Do not overnight on Nuxalk land.
- Insider tip for campers
- On the descent be sure to select a low gear; never load the brakes continuously. If possible have the brakes checked before the climb. The weather can change completely between the plateau and the valley: continuous rain there, sun here.
4Stage 4: Hagensborg to Bella Coola (approx. 20 km)
- The drive
- The Bella Coola Valley runs flat and green from Hagensborg west to the harbour of Bella Coola. Paved, with moderate traffic, speeds 50–80 km/h. Driving time under an hour, but a full day with stops. Fuel stations and shops in Hagensborg and Bella Coola.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Thorsen Creek Petroglyphs: ancient rock carvings in the forest; a visit is only possible with a Nuxalk guide, clarify an appointment in advance.
- Bella Coola: The harbour on the fjord is the starting point for tours; the Nuxalk settlement, crafts and totem poles shape the place. The visit should be respectful.
- Bear watching: grizzlies in the valley in late summer and autumn; guided tours are safer than going alone on the river.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Back in Tweedsmuir South Provincial Park (Atnarko, Fisheries Pool; restricted or closed in the bear season 1 September to 15 October) or on a private site in Hagensborg or Bella Coola; check operator, opening times and vehicle lengths in advance. Sites in the valley are in high demand in high summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Bella Coola Valley there are hardly any legal free-camping spots; the harbour and settlement are off limits. Heed signs at reserves.
- Insider tip for campers
- The BC Ferries connection Bella Coola–Port Hardy (“Discovery Coast”) runs only seasonally, roughly from mid-June to mid-September; the crossing takes about 10 hours with calls such as Bella Bella. It does not run after the end of the season; check the timetable, reservations and vehicle restrictions in advance at bcferries.com. Without the ferry, the way back is over the same Highway 20 to Williams Lake (pure driving time over 6 hours, better spread over two days).
5Stage 5: Bella Coola to Anahim Lake (return) (approx. 150 km)
- The drive
- Back through the valley and the steep climb over The Hill to Heckman Pass, then onto the plateau to Anahim Lake; the return to Williams Lake is the same route (about 460 km). The climb demands a lot of engine power; keep an eye on coolant and temperature. Driving time to Anahim Lake about 3 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Viewpoints on Heckman Pass: on the way back the valley looks quite different with mist and light.
- Anahim Lake: the settlement of the Ulkatcho and the Anahim Lake Stampede in July; check cultural events in advance.
- Rainbow Range (Tweedsmuir South Provincial Park): colourful volcanic mountains; access on foot, and in clear weather the view from the road is also worthwhile.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Private sites in Anahim Lake and Nimpo Lake; clarify operator and opening times in advance. Alternatively Recreation Sites at the lakes of the plateau.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Crown land and Recreation Sites on the plateau; access roads gravel, heed fire bans.
- Insider tip for campers
- On the way back start early to drive the switchbacks in cool morning air; check brake fluid and the cooling system. Top up fuel in Anahim Lake if supplies are low.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In British Columbia, camping on Crown land is generally permitted without a permit for up to 14 days at the same place; excluded are private land, First Nations reserves, parks and protected areas. The Chilcotin has many simple sites at lakes, Recreation Sites (Recreation Sites and Trails BC) with a fire pit and toilet.
- In the Bella Coola Valley and in Tweedsmuir South Provincial Park free camping is practically not possible; overnight only on designated sites.
- Wildfire season: heed fire bans and area closures of the BC Wildfire Service (bcwildfire.ca); in late summer smoke and road closures are possible. Gas stoves are mostly allowed, open fires are not.
- Bears: Grizzlies and black bears are numerous in the Bella Coola Valley, especially in late summer at the salmon rivers. Bear spray is legal in Canada and belongs within reach in the camper; keep food and rubbish in the vehicle at night; keep your distance from bears and from the river when salmon spawn.
- Apps: iOverlander, Campendium, Park4Night; mobile reception exists only in individual places, so download maps offline. Respect for the land of the Tsilhqot’in, Ulkatcho and Nuxalk: heed signs, and do not photograph without permission.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations: in Williams Lake, occasionally in Anahim Lake and Bella Coola; BC park campgrounds mostly have none. Empty and fill your water in Williams Lake before departure.
- Drinking water: tap water in the settlements is in some cases drinkable only after treatment; heed boil water advisories and filter river water. Carry at least 40–60 l in reserve.
- Propane in Williams Lake, Anahim Lake and Bella Coola; European bottles need adapters, and rental motorhomes have fixed tanks.
- Fuel: fuel stations in Williams Lake, Alexis Creek (check opening), Tatla Lake, Nimpo Lake, Anahim Lake, Hagensborg and Bella Coola; distances up to 100 km. Never below a third of a tank.
- Shopping: supermarket in Williams Lake, smaller shops in Anahim Lake, Hagensborg and Bella Coola; prices high, range limited.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: Highway 20 mostly 90–100 km/h, in settlements 50 km/h; on the ramp and on the gradient (The Hill) reduce speed sharply, heed the signs. From 1 October to 30 April winter tyres or snow chains are required on designated routes; Heckman Pass can have snow and ice early.
- Vehicle dimensions in BC: height up to 4.15 m, width up to 2.6 m. For heavy vehicles and combinations on the gradient: select a low gear, do not overheat the brakes; heed the instructions on the signs.
- Fees: Provincial parks charge camping fees; BC Parks takes reservations around four months in advance at camping.bcparks.ca. There is no toll on Highway 20.
- Wildlife: moose and wildlife collisions are common, especially at dusk; watch for livestock (cattle, horses) on the road, as ranch land is often unfenced. In an accident call 911 or the RCMP.
- Traffic law: turning right on red after stopping is permitted where not prohibited; using a phone while driving is forbidden. A German driving licence is enough for tourists; child seat and seat belt rules apply in motorhomes.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception is missing over long stretches. Carry a satellite communicator or Starlink, and check DriveBC (drivebc.ca) for closures.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Bear spray with a holster: in the Bella Coola Valley grizzlies are present in salmon season; legal in Canada, but cannot be carried on a plane.
- Extra reserve for brakes and cooling system: coolant, brake fluid and a temperature sensor for the steep section at Heckman Pass.
- Rain jacket and rubber boots: the Bella Coola Valley is rainy, while the plateau is dry and hot in summer.
- Offline maps and a satellite communicator: mobile reception is missing over long stretches, and breakdown assistance is far away.
- Spare fuel can and water canister (20 l): fuel stations and water points are rare, so carry a reserve as a precaution.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
