In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the houseboat lake at Sicamous past the dry slopes of Kamloops to the 141-metre Helmcken Falls: a camper region where you brew your morning coffee in lake mist and watch waterfalls in the evening backlight.
The spirit of the route
Here the Trans-Canada Highway is not a transit corridor but a slow-motion change of scenery. Beyond Sicamous, Shuswap Lake spreads out with its four branching arms, houseboats lie on the water, cedars and Douglas firs stand along the shores, and the camper is often only a stone’s throw from the beach. Further west the light changes: around Kamloops there are sun-scorched hills of sagebrush and ponderosa pine, and the air smells of dry resin and dust. To the north the route turns into the Cariboo Mountains, where the road leads into the Clearwater Valley and, in Wells Gray, ends in a ring of volcanic cones, glacial rivers and waterfalls. In October the sockeye salmon spawn in the Adams River, in 2026 in a strong dominant-run year, and the valley turns red. At night you hear only water, wind and the occasional owl. If you have time, you will find a mix of lake camping, desert atmosphere and wilderness here, without the high-season crowds of the Rockies.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Sicamous to Salmon Arm (approx. 65 km)
- The drive
- From Sicamous, the main houseboat town, Trans-Canada Highway 1 follows the south shore of Shuswap Lake westwards: a wide, well-built road, usually 90–110 km/h, with gentle hills and views of lake arms and orchards. Salmon Arm lies at the far tip of the bay and is the largest town in the area, with petrol stations, supermarkets and garages. The pure driving time is under an hour, but with the lake access points it makes half a day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Salmon Arm Wharf: The long wooden pier juts far out into the bay, with the bird sanctuary in front of it, home to grebes and egrets; a walk takes about an hour.
- Haney Heritage Village in Salmon Arm: open-air museum with historic buildings of the region. Check opening times and season beforehand.
- Herald Provincial Park near Tappen: a short hiking trail to Herald Falls through cedar forest, good for a morning.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Herald Provincial Park (Tappen) is a BC Parks campground in cedar forest on Shuswap Lake; campers and motorhomes will find simple sites here without hook-ups, with reservations through the BC Parks portal. Check the length limit and opening times before booking. As a second choice, there are campgrounds in and around Sicamous; availability is tight in high season, so book months ahead in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In provincial parks and on beaches, overnighting outside designated sites is prohibited. On Crown land, recreation sites with simple pitches are available; special rules apply to visitors from abroad, which you should check locally with Recreation Sites and Trails BC.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel and buy groceries in Salmon Arm; north of there along the lakeshore, supplies get thin. If you want to watch houseboats, do it from Sicamous at dusk. Late in the year it can cool to below 0 °C at night, so test the camper’s heating beforehand.
2Stage 2: Salmon Arm to Chase and Adams River (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- Continue on Trans-Canada Highway 1 westwards via Tappen and Sorrento, later through Squilax with a view of the Little River. The highway is well built, has few bends and is mostly signed at 90–100 km/h. At the Little River and near Chase lies the gateway to the Adams River, where the sockeye salmon spawn. The pure driving time is under an hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Roderick Haig-Brown Provincial Park: The Adams River is the site of the famous sockeye run. 2026 is a strong spawning year (the dominant cycle repeats every four years); the peak is roughly in October, so check current dates on the Salmon Society website. Keep your distance on the riverside paths.
- Shuswap Lake Provincial Park near Scotch Creek: wide sandy beaches and a family area, also good for paddling. The detour from Squilax is short.
- Chase Creek Falls: a small waterfall right in the town of Chase, a short stopover.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Shuswap Lake Provincial Park near Scotch Creek: over 100 sites under trees on the lakeshore, showers, drinking water and washroom buildings; there are no hook-ups at the sites. Check the length limit on the BC Parks portal before booking; reservations open up to four months ahead, and the park is booked out very early for the salmon run. Roderick Haig-Brown Provincial Park on the Adams River has no campground and is for day visits only.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): There are recreation sites around the lake; many should be used with caution by foreign visitors or have restrictions. During the salmon season, rangers and wardens enforce the rules strictly, and the riverbanks are sensitive.
- Insider tip for campers
- During the salmon season, head for the access road to Roderick Haig-Brown Park early in the morning; traffic backs up in the afternoon. Dogs are not allowed on the spawning channels. Top up your water supplies as soon as you reach Chase.
3Stage 3: Chase and Adams River to Kamloops (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- Trans-Canada Highway 1 runs through the Thompson Valley: beyond Chase it gets drier, the slopes are covered with sagebrush and grass, and to the south you can make out the peaks of the Monashee Mountains. The road is four-lane and in good condition, with speeds of 100–110 km/h. Around midday you reach Kamloops at the confluence of the North and South Thompson Rivers. The pure driving time is about an hour, with petrol stations and supermarkets on the edge of town.
- Highlights & must-sees
- BC Wildlife Park Kamloops: bears, wolves and elk in natural enclosures, only a few kilometres east of the city; good for half a day. Check opening times beforehand.
- Secwépemc Museum & Heritage Park in Kamloops: information on Secwépemc culture and reconstructed winter houses. Check admission and opening times beforehand.
- Paul Lake Provincial Park: a quiet lake north of the city with hiking trails on the hills, good for an evening walk.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Paul Lake Provincial Park (about 25 km north-east of Kamloops): BC Parks campground on the lake, showers and water on site, no electric hook-ups; check the length limit and opening times beforehand. Lac Le Jeune Provincial Park south-west of the city is a good alternative, also with reservations. Both campgrounds fill up quickly in high summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Crown land around Kamloops is hill-walking country with forest roads; camping there is generally possible under certain conditions, but fire bans often apply in late summer. Be aware of the fire risk; rangers carry out checks.
- Insider tip for campers
- Kamloops has good infrastructure: you will find dump stations, propane and garages in the urban area. This is the place for the big shop before the climb into the Clearwater Valley, because supplies become very thin from there to the lake.
4Stage 4: Kamloops to Clearwater (approx. 125 km)
- The drive
- From Kamloops, Highway 5 follows the North Thompson River northwards, known as Yellowhead South: two lanes, well built, speeds of 90–110 km/h, later through meadows, forest and ranchland. Along the way there are several rest areas with views of the river. The pure driving time is just under 1.5 hours. Clearwater is the last larger supply centre before Wells Gray: petrol station, supermarket, visitor centre.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Little Fort to Barriere: viewpoints on the North Thompson River, right on the way and little visited.
- Dutch Lake in Clearwater: a lake on the edge of town, ideal for an evening walk and for swimming on warm days.
- Wells Gray visitor centre in Clearwater: maps, weather, road conditions; you can ask about access status here.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Dutch Lake Resort & RV Park and other campgrounds in Clearwater are privately run; at the entrance to Wells Gray there are provincial park campgrounds such as Hemp Creek and Dawson Falls. Reserve through the BC Parks portal or the operators’ booking systems, and check lengths. Booked out very early in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Along the North Thompson River there are recreation sites on Crown land. Restrictions apply to foreign visitors; check the rec-site rules. Overnighting in car parks within the town is not allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel and stock up on supplies in Clearwater; there are no petrol stations in Wells Gray. Highway 5 is affected by snow and avalanches in winter; in October, check your tyres and chains. Mobile reception almost completely disappears in the park.
5Stage 5: Clearwater to Helmcken Falls and Wells Gray (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- The Clearwater Valley Road branches off Highway 5, paved deep into the park, then gravel. It leads through spruce forest, to waterfalls and volcanic landscapes. The road is winding, with climbs; on clear stretches 50–80 km/h is usual, with wildlife crossings and potholes. With stops it takes a whole day, with the return trip on the same day or an overnight stay in the park. According to BC Parks, the section to Clearwater Lake is closed from mid-December to mid-May.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Spahats Creek Falls: a viewpoint above the gorge, a short walk from the car park, with lovely photos in the morning.
- Helmcken Falls: a 141-metre free fall of the Murtle River into a volcanic gorge, with short paths to several viewing platforms; in winter an ice cone forms. Check access for larger vehicles beforehand.
- Clearwater Lake: canoes and boats, hiking trails and views of the mountains; the road goes this far.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Wells Gray there are the BC Parks campgrounds Clearwater Lake Campground, Pyramid Campground, Falls Creek Campground, Hemp Creek Campground and Dawson Falls Campground. Water and toilets are usually available, showers and hook-ups are not; reserve through the BC Parks system, or by phone on 1-800-689-9025. Check lengths and opening times for each campground in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping is prohibited in the park itself; outside it you will find recreation sites on forest roads. Restrictions apply to foreign visitors, so clarify the rules locally; fire bans are widespread in late summer.
- Insider tip for campers
- Bring water, as drinking-water taps are seasonal. In rain the gravel stretch can become slippery, so drive slowly and defensively in a camper. Be prepared for bears: keep bear spray within reach and never keep food in the tent.
6Stage 6: Wells Gray to Kamloops (approx. 190 km)
- The drive
- Return via the Clearwater Valley Road and Highway 5 southwards. The route is just as easy to drive as on the way out, and impressive in the evening light. The pure driving time is about 2.5 hours, plus breaks. In Kamloops the route can end, or lead back to the Shuswap area via Highway 1.
- Highlights & must-sees
- A second look at the waterfalls in daylight: Dawson Falls and Spahats Creek are lovely stopovers.
- Kamloops Lake: Beyond the city the lake opens out with views of hills and rocks; a photo stop is worthwhile.
- North Thompson River: rest areas along Highway 5 invite you to a picnic.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Paul Lake Provincial Park or Lac Le Jeune Provincial Park (both near Kamloops) for the last night, with reservations on the BC Parks portal. Check lengths and access roads before booking; booked out early in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Outside the provincial parks, recreation sites are possible on Crown land. Restrictions apply to foreign visitors; clarify locally with Recreation Sites and Trails BC.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Kamloops fill the water tank, empty the waste water and mind the conditions of your rental motorhome. Drive early in the morning; traffic in high season is heavier at weekends.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In British Columbia, camping on Crown land (public land) is usually possible for up to 14 days in one place for Canadians. Special rules apply to visitors from abroad, which you should ask about at Recreation Sites and Trails BC. In provincial parks, on beaches and in car parks, overnighting outside designated sites is not allowed.
- Recreation sites (simple, often free sites on forest roads) are an alternative; check road conditions and fire bans beforehand. Fire bans are frequent in the region in late summer, and violations carry heavy penalties.
- Water and nature protection: do not discharge grey water into lakes or streams, and never pollute rivers and lakes with soap. Salmon rivers are sensitive; do not enter riverbank areas where barriers are in place.
- Wildlife: black bears, grizzlies and moose live in the area; carry bear spray within reach, lock food and rubbish away securely at night, and keep your distance.
- Useful apps: iOverlander, Campendium, Park4Night, the BC Parks portal and the Recreation Sites and Trails BC app; for current fire and road status, DriveBC and the BC Wildfire Service.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations are available at many RV parks in Salmon Arm and Kamloops; often for a fee for non-guests. sanidumps.com provides an overview. Provincial parks do not always have a dump station.
- Drinking water: tap water in Canada is drinkable; in Wells Gray, water points are often seasonal, so bring canisters. Filter or boil water from streams and lakes before use.
- Empty grey water and chemical toilets only at dump stations, never on the ground or in a body of water.
- Propane is available at petrol stations and from dealers in Salmon Arm, Kamloops and Clearwater; European gas cylinders are not compatible, and rental motorhomes have permanently installed tanks.
- Fuel: petrol stations in Sicamous, Salmon Arm, Kamloops and Clearwater; none in the park. Fill up before Wells Gray.
- Shopping: larger supermarkets in Salmon Arm, Kamloops and Clearwater; smaller shops in Chase and Barriere.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in km/h: highways mostly 90–110, in towns 50, on gravel roads in the park 50–80 or lower depending on signage. Motorhomes drive according to the signs, with care on gravel.
- There are no tolls in the region; the Trans-Canada Highway and Highway 5 are free to use. No low-emission zones.
- Dimensions: the legal height in Canada is usually 4.15 m, width 2.6 m; check the length restriction at campgrounds in advance.
- Reservations: BC Parks up to four months ahead through the booking portal; book early for high season and for the salmon run in October. Booking by phone is possible on 1-800-689-9025.
- Weather and season: summer warm and dry, October cool with frost; in winter snow, and the access road to Clearwater Lake is closed from mid-December to mid-May. Wildfire season runs from July to September, with possible closures.
- Traffic law: right turn on red after a stop is allowed unless a sign prohibits it; mobile phones at the wheel only hands-free; seat belts and child seats are compulsory in motorhomes too. A German driving licence is sufficient for tourists.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception largely disappears in Wells Gray, so an emergency plan and an offline map are sensible.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Bear spray with a holster – bears are common in Wells Gray and on the salmon rivers, and the spray must be within reach.
- Water canisters and a filter – some campgrounds in Wells Gray have water only seasonally.
- Warm layers and a rain jacket – nights are frosty in October, and the weather changes quickly in the Cariboo Mountains.
- Binoculars and a telephoto lens – for eagles, salmon and wildlife on the shore.
- Offline map and paper map – there is no mobile reception in Wells Gray.
- Levelling wedges and small change – lakeside sites are often sloping, and showers and dump stations sometimes take coins.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
