In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 450 kilometres from the spa town on the Oos along the Schwarzwaldhochstraße, through the Kinzig valley to Triberg, past Titisee and Feldberg to the Schluchsee and down into the Markgräflerland: a route with plenty of climbing, tight village streets and pitches that are worth clarifying in advance.
The spirit of the route
The Black Forest is no place for high average speeds. The route starts up on the ridge: from Baden-Baden the B500 runs through spruce forest and across grinden (moorland heath), bogs and cirques, past the Mummelsee, the Hornisgrinde and the national park at Ruhestein. Then it drops into the valleys of the Kinzig and the Gutach, where half-timbered houses, the Black Forest railway and an open-air museum lie close together, and climbs again via Triberg onto the uplands of the Baar. In the High Black Forest, Titisee, Feldberg (1,493 m) and Schluchsee lie between roughly 850 and 1,450 m; snow can fall as early as October, and at the popular car parks overnighting is banned almost everywhere. The way back leads over Todtnau and the Münstertal to Staufen, then to Freiburg and the vine terraces of the Kaiserstuhl in the Upper Rhine plain, where the grape harvest is under way in October. Keep the stages short, get to waterfalls and viewpoints early, and use the motorhome pitches on the edge of the villages, and you will see a Black Forest beyond the coach parks.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- From Baden-Baden via Lichtental and Geroldsau onto the B500, the Schwarzwaldhochstraße, then via Sand, Hundseck, Mummelsee, Ruhestein and Kniebis to Freudenstadt. The road climbs from about 170 m to over 1,000 m with long gradients and hairpins, but it is wide and easy to drive in a motorhome. Several sections have speed limits, many motorcyclists are out at weekends, and speed cameras are frequent. Two hours of pure driving, a full day with stops; in snow or ice the road may be closed or passable only with chains, so check road conditions beforehand.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Baden-Baden: Lichtentaler Allee, the Friedrichsbad in the style of a Roman-Irish bath, Kurhaus and Trinkhalle – since 2021 part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing of the Great Spa Towns of Europe.
- Mummelsee (about 1,030 m) below the Hornisgrinde (1,164 m, highest mountain of the northern Black Forest): a cirque lake with a circular path and refreshments; from the lake a trail leads up onto the Hornisgrinde with its grinde bog and lookout tower.
- Ruhestein (about 915 m): national park centre with an exhibition, plus the Lothar Trail through the windthrow area of 1999 – it shows how a forest renews itself.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In and around Baden-Baden there are motorhome pitches and campsites on the edge of town; check location, prices and opening times in pitch apps and on the town's website before you arrive. In Freudenstadt (about 740 m) the Natur-Camping Langenwald lies in the woods on the edge of town and, according to the town, is open roughly April to November – confirm in advance. The town also lists a motorhome pitch at the Panorama-Bad (per the town five spaces, free of charge, with fresh water and disposal, no electricity) – check the current status beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Along the B500, car parks such as those at the Mummelsee or Ruhestein charge fees and are not meant for overnight stays; the grinden and bogs of the Hornisgrinde and the area of the Black Forest National Park are protected. In the national park, visitors must stay on marked paths, and overnighting in a vehicle outside the pitches is prohibited. A single night to restore fitness to drive on a regular car park remains possible where no sign forbids it – on the ridge road, with cold, wind and fog, not a good idea.
- Insider tip for campers
- Mummelsee and Ruhestein fill up early at weekends; arrive before 9 am or late in the afternoon for peace. The ridge is often in fog or cloud – the best long views come in cool, clear weather after a cold front. In Freudenstadt the market square is worth a visit: at about 216 × 219 m it is the largest enclosed market square in Germany, with arcades and an angled town church; the centre is tight, so the camper is better left on the edge of town. Refuel and top up gas in Baden-Baden before the ridge road: prices up there are no better.
2Stage 2: Freudenstadt to Triberg (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- From Freudenstadt via Alpirsbach and Schiltach into the Kinzig valley to Wolfach and Hausach, then on the B33 via Gutach and Hornberg up to Triberg. The Kinzig valley is broad and quick, but tight with 30 km/h limits in the villages (Schiltach, Wolfach). The climb from Hornberg to Triberg rises about 300 m over roughly 12 km, with bends and lorry traffic. About 1.5 hours without stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Alpirsbach: Romanesque Benedictine monastery with cloister and the Klosterbräu brewery; in Schiltach the market square with steep half-timbered façades and the history of log rafting on the Kinzig.
- Vogtsbauernhof in Gutach: the Black Forest Open-Air Museum with farmsteads from several centuries, open in 2026 from 22 March to 1 November, daily 9 am to 6 pm (last admission 5 pm) – check admission and any changes beforehand.
- Triberg: the waterfalls in seven steps with a drop of well over 160 m, plus the pilgrimage church Maria in der Tanne and the Black Forest Museum; the Offenburg–Konstanz railway winds through dozens of tunnels along the slope.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Triberg and the neighbouring municipality of Schonach operate car parks and pitches for motorhomes on the edge of town; clarify location, fee and opening in a pitch app or at the tourist office beforehand; the regional tourist board lists, for example, the Schwendistraße motorhome pitch in Triberg (six spaces, no electricity, water or disposal). In the Kinzig valley (Wolfach, Hausach, Gutach) there are small municipal motorhome pitches and campsites by the river; prices and season vary.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Kinzig and Gutach valleys, hiking car parks and village edges often carry no-overnighting signs; forest tracks are closed to motor vehicles under the Baden-Württemberg state forest law (Landeswaldgesetz). The car park at the Triberg waterfalls is for daytime parking only. A single night without a sign remains possible, camping (chairs, awning) does not.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Triberg waterfalls charge admission (2026 according to the town: 9 euros in summer, 7 euros in winter for adults; in winter only the first platform is accessible) and are busy from early morning; the quietest times are early in the morning and shortly before closing. In rain the path gets slippery. For the open-air museum in Gutach, two to three hours is a good allowance. The main street through Triberg is tight and steep – motorhomes up to about 3.5 t get through, but with longer vehicles it is better to park at the edge of town and walk.
3Stage 3: Triberg to Titisee-Neustadt (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- Via Schönwald to Furtwangen, then on minor roads across the plateau between the Baar and the High Black Forest to Titisee-Neustadt. Gentle heights between about 800 and 1,000 m, few climbs, many villages with 30 km/h limits. Snow and fog in winter, plenty of excursion traffic at Titisee in summer. A good hour and a half.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Furtwangen: the German Clock Museum with one of the largest collections on the history of timekeeping – a place for technology, not souvenirs; the Breg, regarded as a source river of the Danube, rises nearby.
- Hexenlochmühle near Neukirch: the mill in the narrow valley of the Hexenlochbach, one of the best-known hiking destinations in the central Black Forest – a short walk from the car park.
- Titisee: an ice-age glacial lake at about 850 m with a lakeside promenade, boat hire and a circular path – quiet in the morning, very crowded during the day.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: At Titisee lies the Terrassencamping Sandbank (Seerundweg 9, also run as Überland Camping Sandbank), open in 2026 from 20 March to 1 November according to the operator; clarify prices in advance, as pitches fill quickly in summer. Titisee-Neustadt also has motorhome pitches, for example on the large car park P1 (reportedly about 30 spaces, year-round, most recently 19 euros per night including Kurtaxe); check location, facilities and fees beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At Titisee, parking on the Seestraße is expensive and scarce, and overnighting on ordinary car parks is not allowed; the municipality refers visitors to campsites and designated pitches. Outside the villages, driving on forest tracks is prohibited (Baden-Württemberg Landeswaldgesetz), and several bogs and stream valleys are nature reserves.
- Insider tip for campers
- Titisee-Neustadt and other municipalities in the High Black Forest levy a Kurtaxe (visitor tax) per person per night. With the KONUS guest card issued by participating places, guests ride buses and trains in the network free of charge – useful for leaving the camper at Titisee. If you stay on campsites or motorhome pitches, ask at reception whether and how you get the card. Visit Titisee early in the day or after 5 pm.
4Stage 4: Titisee-Neustadt to Schluchsee (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Titisee on the B317 via Bärental and the Feldberg pass to Feldberg-Ort, then via Altglashütten and Aha to the Schluchsee. From about 850 to over 1,200 m on a steady gradient, a wide road with views of the Feldberg; descents and bends on the east side. About 1 hour of pure driving; in snow the B317 at the Feldberg may require chains or be closed.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Feldberg (1,493 m): highest summit of the Black Forest and of all German uplands; the cable car from Feldberg-Ort goes up to the Seebuck (1,448 m), with a circuit walk there, views of the Feldsee and, in clear conditions, the Alps.
- Feldsee, a cirque lake at about 1,100 m below the Seebuck, reached on a footpath from Bärental or Feldberg-Ort in about an hour.
- Schluchsee (930 m): at just over five square kilometres the largest lake in the Black Forest, dammed in 1932, with a circular path of about 18 km, bathing spots and a sailing school.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: At the Schluchsee there are several campsites and a municipal motorhome pitch near the village (Faulenfürster Straße; per the municipality 22 spaces, year-round, most recently about 12 euros per night plus Kurtaxe); clarify location and opening in a pitch app or with the spa administration beforehand. At the Feldberg itself, pitches are rare; Bärental and Feldberg-Ort have car parks with fees, but no areas for overnighting. Designated pitches do exist in the municipality, for example the motorhome pitch by the Dreiseenbahn at Falkau/Altglashütten (reportedly 16 spaces, year-round, Kurtaxe for two people included, KONUS card against the receipt at the town hall or tourist office).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At about 4,200 hectares the Feldberg is one of the oldest and largest nature reserves in Baden-Württemberg (protected since 1937): stay on marked paths, keep dogs on leads; tents, fires and overnighting in vehicles are prohibited. Overnighting is not intended at the Feldberg car parks, and the same applies to the lakeside car parks at the Schluchsee. Using the campsites and pitches in the villages is the only reliable option.
- Insider tip for campers
- Refuel and fill up with water before the Feldberg: supplies are thin up there. The cable car stops in fog or wind, so check operating times beforehand; if you climb on foot, allow about 1 to 1.5 hours from Feldberg-Ort to the summit. From October the first snow often lies on top – Alpine-symbol tyres are then mandatory, chains sensible. At the Schluchsee the circular path is worth doing by bike or e-bike; bathing spots are on the shore, for instance in Schluchsee and Seebrugg.
5Stage 5: Schluchsee to Todtnau (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From the Schluchsee to St. Blasien, then via Menzenschwand and Bernau on minor roads on to Todtnau (check the exact route in your satnav beforehand; in winter mountain roads are occasionally closed). Many bends, crests and village streets, some of them narrow; expect oncoming buses. About 1.5 hours with short stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- St. Blasien: the cathedral with one of the largest domes in Europe (36 m in diameter), built after the fire of 1768, plus the Jesuit college – a surprisingly monumental place in the narrow Alb valley.
- Menzenschwand waterfalls in the Krunkelbach valley: cascades in rugged mountain forest, a short walk from the edge of the village.
- Todtnau waterfall: a drop of about 97 m in steps, well signposted, reached on foot from the car parks in a few minutes.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Todtnau and the neighbouring municipalities there are municipal motorhome pitches and campsites; check names, prices and opening times in a pitch app or at the tourist office beforehand. St. Blasien and Bernau also have pitches on the edge of town.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Alb valley and the Krunkelbach valley are steep, and forest and slopes are largely protected area or Bannwald (strict forest reserve); driving on forest tracks is prohibited under the Baden-Württemberg Landeswaldgesetz. Overnighting is not intended at the waterfall car parks. If you spend a night on a regular car park, keep a low profile – there are often wild animals in the forest, and forestry work starts early in the morning.
- Insider tip for campers
- Churches such as the cathedral in St. Blasien are open during the day; note concert and service times. The Todtnau waterfall is at its best after rain or during snowmelt; in frost the path is icy. The roads towards Todtnau are steep – drive downhill in a low gear and spare the brakes. Todtnau is a winter-sports town; in autumn the weather on the heights can turn quickly.
6Stage 6: Todtnau to Staufen im Breisgau (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- From Todtnau via Utzenfeld and Aitern to Wieden, over the Wiedener Eck into the Münstertal and via Untermünstertal to Staufen; if you like, make a detour near Aitern to the Belchen (1,414 m). The roads are winding, the descents in the Münstertal steep but well built; tight village streets in the valley. About 1.5 hours without the detour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Münstertal: St. Trudpert monastery, one of the oldest monasteries in the Black Forest, and the Teufelsgrund show mine, where silver and lead were once mined.
- Belchen (1,414 m): one of the finest viewpoints of the southern Black Forest with views of the Vosges and the Alps; according to the region the summit area has been car-free since 2001: the Belchenstraße ends at the valley station in Multen (car park at about 1,100 m), from where the cable car runs up to about 1,356 m, or take the Belchenbus from Schönau – check operating times beforehand.
- Staufen: old town beneath the castle ruin, where according to tradition the alchemist Johann Faust died around 1539; in the centre you can see cracks in buildings that appeared after a geothermal drilling in 2007.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Staufen and the Münstertal there are motorhome pitches and campsites near the villages; clarify location and opening in a pitch app or with the municipality beforehand. In the Markgräflerland some wineries offer pitches for guests – ask the winery directly about availability and conditions.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Münstertal and the mountain slopes are nature and landscape conservation areas where visitors must keep to marked paths; driving on forest tracks is prohibited. Overnighting is not intended at the car parks at the Belchen. A single night to restore fitness to drive is possible on regular village car parks without a prohibition sign, camping is not.
- Insider tip for campers
- On clear autumn days the Belchen is a very good viewpoint, but it is busy at weekends. The silver mine is visited on guided tours at fixed times – check visiting times and tickets beforehand; it is cool inside the mountain, so bring warm clothing. In Staufen the centre is tight, so the camper stays on the edge of town.
7Stage 7: Staufen im Breisgau to Freiburg im Breisgau (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Staufen via Kirchhofen and Ehrenkirchen along the foothills of the Black Forest to Freiburg; a detour to the Schönberg (about 645 m) is possible. Flat and well built, but with commuter traffic around Freiburg. About 45 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Freiburg Minster: the 116 m openwork tower is regarded as a masterpiece of Gothic architecture; on the Münsterplatz there is a market daily except Sundays – fruit, vegetables and the Freiburg „Lange Rote“ sausage.
- The Freiburg Bächle (little streams), Schwabentor and Martinstor; from the old town the Schlossbergbahn takes you to a view over rooftops, the Rhine plain and, in clear weather, the Vosges.
- Vauban and Rieselfeld: districts with a solar estate and car-free streets – examples of sustainable urban planning.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Hirzberg in Freiburg (Kartäuserstraße) lies on the eastern edge of the city and, according to the operator, is open all year (reception hours vary by season) – confirm in advance; the city centre is reachable from here by bus and tram. For motorhomes without a campsite there are further pitches on the edge of the city; check their location and fees beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Freiburg is a big city: on streets and car parks, parking is allowed, camping is not. Overnighting in a vehicle outside the pitches is checked; the city steers motorhomes to pitches and campsites. In the surrounding area, anyone staying on the edge of a village must expect fines in protected areas (Schauinsland, Rhine floodplain).
- Insider tip for campers
- Freiburg's low-emission zone (Umweltzone) was abolished on 2 May 2025; a green sticker is no longer needed there. If you arrive via Stuttgart, check with the city beforehand on the status of its low-emission zone and any driving bans (Karlsruhe already abolished its zone in 2023). In the old town parking is difficult for motorhomes; use bus and tram.
8Stage 8: Freiburg im Breisgau to Kaiserstuhl (Endingen) (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- From Freiburg via Breisach am Rhein to Ihringen and on through the wine villages of the municipality of Vogtsburg (Achkarren, Oberrotweil, Bickensohl, Oberbergen, Burkheim) to Endingen. Flat by the Rhine, then bends and climbs on the vineyard slopes; in the winegrowing villages very narrow lanes and farm tracks that are unsuitable for motorhomes. About 1.5 hours without stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Kaiserstuhl: a volcanic upland of basalt and loess with vine terraces, sunken lanes and dry grassland, the Totenkopf (557 m) its highest point; Ihringen is regarded as the warmest place in Germany.
- Breisach: St. Stephan's Minster with the high altar by Master H. L., the Rhine bank and a view of Neuf-Brisach, Vauban's fortress on the Alsace side (UNESCO World Heritage).
- Burkheim and Endingen: Burkheim with a medieval townscape near the Rhine, Endingen with market square, half-timbering and winegrowers' cooperatives.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Breisach there is the municipal motorhome pitch on the Rhine bank below the Münsterberg (per the town up to 80 motorhomes, no caravans, most recently 14 euros per night including Kurtaxe for two people) and the Münsterblick campsite (open from late March to late October according to the operator) – check details beforehand. In Endingen and the Kaiserstuhl villages there are municipal motorhome pitches; check details beforehand. Some wineries offer pitches for guests – ask directly, often combined with buying wine.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The vineyards on the Kaiserstuhl are private land and farm tracks are closed; overnighting outside pitches and campsites is prohibited. Parts of the Kaiserstuhl (Badberg, Haselschacher Buck) are nature reserves where visitors must stay on marked paths. If you spend one night on a village car park without a sign, keep quiet and do not set up camp.
- Insider tip for campers
- In autumn it is harvest time: tractors and harvest trailers occupy farm tracks and village streets; drive early in the day and show consideration. Wine tastings on the estates only make sense with a sober driver – 0.5 per mille. For the journey back across the Rhine plain: A5 towards Karlsruhe or Basel; if you continue to Stuttgart, check its low-emission zone.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In Germany a motorhome on public roads and car parks counts as a parked vehicle if it is only there to “restore fitness to drive” – in practice one night, without camping behaviour (no chairs, tables, awning, levelling legs or wedges, no grey water on the ground). Anyone who stays several nights or sets up is camping – and outside campsites and pitches that is not allowed.
- In the Black Forest, no-overnighting signs and signs with a crossed-out motorhome are common at viewpoints, waterfalls, hiking car parks and lake shores. In forest, national park and nature reserves (Black Forest National Park, Feldberg, Hornisgrinde), visitors must keep to paths and driving off the roads is prohibited; under the Baden-Württemberg Landeswaldgesetz, driving and parking in forest outside public roads and car parks is forbidden. Fines are set by municipalities and districts.
- Municipal pitches in the Black Forest are mostly on the edge of the village, often open only seasonally or small, and quickly full in high season and during the autumn grape harvest. Alternatives are winegrowers, farms and inns with their own pitch (ask on the spot).
- Useful aids: park4night, Campercontact, pitch apps and the printed German Stellplatz guides; user information on fees, opening and facilities is often out of date – check the current status on the spot.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service stations (fresh water and waste) exist at many municipal pitches and campsites; some run on coins or tokens, others on cards. Fresh water usually comes in portions for a fee.
- Empty grey water only at the station, and the chemical toilet only into the marked disposal points – not into drains or public toilets. Formaldehyde-based sanitary additives are unwelcome at many stations.
- Tap water in Germany is drinking water; heed “Kein Trinkwasser” signs at cemeteries, fountains and springs. On farms in the High Black Forest water often comes from springs – observe the notices.
- Gas: grey 11 kg and 5 kg exchange cylinders are available at many filling stations, DIY stores and campsites; refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at autogas (LPG) stations, which in Germany use ACME connectors – bring a suitable adapter if you come from a country with a different system. Foreign exchange cylinders are not swapped. In the High Black Forest filling stations and shops are few – stock up before the climb to the Feldberg.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t drive like cars – 50 km/h in built-up areas, 100 km/h outside, no general limit on the Autobahn (recommended speed 130 km/h). Motorhomes over 3.5 t up to 7.5 t: 80 km/h outside built-up areas, 100 km/h on the Autobahn; over 7.5 t: 60 km/h outside, 80 km/h on the Autobahn. Caravan combinations: 80 km/h, 100 km/h on the Autobahn only with a 100 km/h approval. On the B500 and in the Black Forest, many sections have much lower limits, often also at night or for motorcycles.
- Environmental sticker: in designated low-emission zones all motor vehicles need the green sticker, foreign ones too. Freiburg abolished its zone on 2 May 2025 and Karlsruhe in 2023; as things stand, no zone is known on this route. If you arrive via Stuttgart (A81), check with the city or the Federal Environment Agency whether a zone still applies there.
- Tolls: there is no vignette for cars and motorhomes. The lorry toll applies to goods vehicles over 3.5 t; according to the operator Toll Collect, motorhomes are generally not liable. For very heavy vehicles over 7.5 t, especially with lorry registration, clarify the classification before the trip.
- The Sunday and public-holiday driving ban and the holiday-travel driving ban on July and August Saturdays apply to lorries over 7.5 t; motorhomes registered as motorhomes are generally not affected, but those with lorry registration are – check the vehicle registration document.
- Winter tyres apply situationally: in black ice, snow, slush or frost, tyres with the Alpine symbol (mountain pictogram with snowflake) are mandatory; M+S-only tyres are no longer enough. On the high ground of the Black Forest (Feldberg, Schwarzwaldhochstraße) snow can lie from October; carry snow chains and check road conditions beforehand.
- Rear carriers: a warning plate as in Italy or Spain is not required, but number plate and rear lights must remain visible (otherwise use a light bar with plate). Alcohol: 0.5 per mille, 0.0 for novice drivers and under-21s. Mobile phone at the wheel only hands-free – fine and a point in Flensburg.
- Kurtaxe: many Black Forest municipalities levy a Kurtaxe (visitor tax) per person and night, usually charged directly at the campsite or pitch; in return many places issue the KONUS guest card for free bus and train travel in the region – clarify participation and conditions at reception.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Green environmental sticker only if your journey leads through a low-emission zone that still exists (e.g. Stuttgart); Freiburg no longer requires one since May 2025.
- A stock of euro coins: many pitch and parking machines in the Black Forest do not accept cards.
- A long power cable (at least 25 m) with CEE plug and adapter to Schuko – on smaller sites the posts are often far apart.
- Snow chains and Alpine-symbol tyres for October and later: the heights of the Feldberg and the Schwarzwaldhochstraße lie above 1,000 m.
- Weatherproof clothing and sturdy shoes for wet paths, waterfalls and hikes; in the High Black Forest it is often 10 to 15 degrees cooler than on the Rhine plain.
- Folding bike or e-bike: the Schluchsee circuit, the Kinzig valley cycle path and routes through the Markgräflerland link pitches with village centres without a search for parking.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
