Alpilles and Montagne Sainte-Victoire

Route description

From Avignon it is 20 km south to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, a market town with plane-tree boulevards; the Wednesday market is the busiest. Just south of the centre lie the Roman arch and mausoleum known as Les Antiques, the ruins of Glanum, and the asylum of Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, where Van Gogh painted many of his best-known works in 1889 and 1890.

The D5 climbs through the Alpilles to Les Baux-de-Provence, a village and ruined castle on a limestone spur. All parking is paid and fills quickly, so come early or late. The quarries below the village house a digital art show. Olive oil mills in Maussane and Fontvieille sell the local oil, which has its own protected name.

Descend towards Arles on the D17 to Montmajour Abbey, a fortified monastery on a hill that Van Gogh drew many times. Climb the tower for the view over the old marshes, then take the motorway via Salon-de-Provence east to Aix-en-Provence, about 80 km. Aix makes a good base, with the Cours Mirabeau and Cézanne’s studio.

The Montagne Sainte-Victoire rises 15 km east of Aix. The D10 runs along its north side past the Bimont dam, where marked trails climb towards the ridge and the Croix de Provence. The southern D17 passes Le Tholonet with views of the cliffs. In summer access to the massif may be closed when fire risk is high; check the daily map before walking.