In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the upper town of Bergamo through Val Seriana and Val Brembana to Italy’s highest waterfalls and Lago d’Endine: just under 400 kilometres through valleys where you go easy on the brakes, check the pitches in advance and have earned your polenta by evening.
The spirit of the route
The Bergamo Prealps lie half an hour from one of northern Italy’s busiest airports and yet feel like another world. Above Bergamo the Venetian Walls rise out of the hill, and behind them two long valleys climb into the Orobie Alps. In Val Seriana, medieval villages such as Gromo cling to the slopes, and at the head of the valley the Serio plunges in three steps over a rock face. In Val Brembana the air smells of chestnut wood, the road follows the old Venetian Via Priula, and in San Pellegrino the Art Nouveau façades look as if someone had set the Belle Époque down in the forest. From your sliding door you see meadows, church towers and clouds snagged on the peaks. At Lago d’Endine the water lies still and greenish in the evening, and all you hear is frogs and the wind in the reeds.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Bergamo (lower town) to Bergamo Città Alta (approx. 10 km)
- The drive
- A short city day: from the pitch on the edge of town, go on foot, by bus or by shuttle to the lower town, then take the funicular up to the Città Alta. The motorhome stays put – the upper town is a restricted traffic zone (ZTL) with cameras, and the lanes are not meant for vehicles of your size. A whole day on foot, with plenty of cobblestones.
- Highlights & must-sees
- A walk along the Venetian Walls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017, with views over the Po Plain and – in clear air – as far as the Alps.
- Piazza Vecchia, the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore and the Colleoni Chapel; to finish, the second funicular up to San Vigilio with the castle and the panorama over the city.
- The Orto Botanico “Lorenzo Rota” at Colle Aperto: a small, quiet garden with alpine plants and views of the upper town and the Prealps; check opening times in advance.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Area camper “Città dei Mille” on the edge of Bergamo: according to directories it has service points, electricity and over 50 pitches, with a fee. A fallback on the west side of the city is the Conca d’Oro car park (Mozzo) with motorhome spaces; check facilities, fees and opening in advance. There are no campsites in Bergamo itself.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the lower town and around the upper town, overnighting on streets and car parks is practically impossible: paid zones, patrols, height barriers. The Parco dei Colli di Bergamo above the city is off limits for camping-style behaviour.
- Insider tip for campers
- Don’t drive the motorhome up to the upper town: the ZTL access is monitored by camera, and fines often arrive by post only months later. Fill up with water at the pitch before heading into the valleys, and try “polenta e osei” for dessert, the marzipan pastry that looks like a heap of polenta with little birds on top.
2Stage 2: Bergamo to Clusone (via Val Gandino) (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- On the SS671 through the lower Val Seriana via Alzano, Nembro and Albino (heavy traffic, industry, traffic lights), up to Gandino at Cene and back into the main valley, then on via Ponte Nossa to Clusone. Val Gandino is a small detour on narrower roads with tight village streets. A good 1.5 hours of pure driving time, better with a spare morning.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gandino: the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta with its museum and the village lanes; the area is known for “Mais spinato”, an old maize variety ground into flour for polenta.
- Clusone: the 16th-century astronomical clock tower on the main square, and an evening stroll through the old town.
- A view of the north face of the Presolana from the plateau near Clusone, best in the late afternoon.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Campeggio Clusone Pineta on the edge of Clusone, a large site with electricity, sanitary facilities and service points according to directories. Smaller motorhome pitches in Songavazzo and on the plateau; for details on Clusone, the Presolana and Val Camonica, see the CampingSpirit travel guide “Sparkling wine, rock carvings and a lake island – by motorhome from Brescia via Lago d’Iseo to Bergamo”.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Municipal bylaws apply on the Clusone plateau: overnighting at hiking car parks and by the roadside is usually prohibited. If you are staying only one night, a designated pitch is best.
- Insider tip for campers
- The village streets in Gandino are narrow and shared with buses – if you are over 7 m long, skip the detour or drive early. Fill up with fuel in Albino and Nembro: petrol stations are rarer and more expensive in the upper valley towns.
3Stage 3: Clusone to Valbondione (via Ardesio and Gromo) (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- On the SS671 and then provincial roads up the valley via Ardesio to Gromo and on through the narrow, winding upper valley to Valbondione at around 900 m. The valley floor narrows, and the road is tight in places, with tunnels and village streets where you have to manoeuvre if you meet oncoming traffic. Around 1 hour 15 minutes of driving, more in peak season.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gromo: the medieval hillside village, known as “little Toledo” for its metalwork, with Castello Ginami; it is on the list of Italy’s most beautiful villages.
- Spiazzi di Gromo: above Gromo, reached by a mountain road via Boario (check in advance whether and when a cable car runs), with the pilgrimage church of Madonna di Spiazzi, views into the valley and walking trails on the high plateaus.
- The Serio waterfalls near Valbondione: with a drop of around 315 m in three steps, they are among the highest in Italy.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Valbondione in the village, electricity and sanitary facilities according to directories. Also the Camperplatz Sabiunet on the edge of the village with service points and electricity; in Ardesio there is the Area Orobie motorhome area with around ten pitches. Check season and opening in advance, the sites are small.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The area lies within the Parco delle Orobie Bergamasche. Outside the sites, camping-style behaviour is prohibited, and the municipalities patrol the hiking car parks and trailheads. At the waterfall itself there is no legal way to stay overnight.
- Insider tip for campers
- The waterfalls run only on a few fixed dates a year, usually between early summer and autumn and only for about half an hour each time, because the water is released from the reservoir only then. On these days a parking ticket is compulsory for cars and motorhomes, and if you want to be sure of a space, arrive early in the morning. Dates, parking rules and access are available from the Valbondione tourist office; the rest of the year the falls carry hardly any water. To view the falls, take the path towards Rifugio Curò (Maslana viewpoint, a good hour to an hour and a half from the village). The full climb to Rifugio Curò and the Barbellino reservoir (around 1,000 m of ascent, roughly three hours uphill) is a day in itself, with sturdy shoes and water.
4Stage 4: Valbondione to San Pellegrino Terme (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- Back down the valley on yesterday’s route as far as Bergamo, through the conurbation and then on the SP470 up into Val Brembana via Villa d’Almè and Zogno to San Pellegrino Terme. The longest driving day: winding at the top, sluggish at the bottom. Allow a good 2 hours, more on weekdays in rush-hour traffic.
- Highlights & must-sees
- San Pellegrino Terme: Art Nouveau buildings such as the Casinò Municipale (inside usually only on a guided tour, dates from the tourist office) and the Palazzo della Fonte, plus the thermal baths by the river.
- The Brembo riverside promenade in San Pellegrino, a quiet walk after the driving day.
- Museo della Valle in Zogno, if you arrive earlier: on the history of the valleys, costumes and crafts.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In the town itself, ask about a pitch and check the directories in advance; a small motorhome area in Val Brembilla (Area sosta camper Brembilla) with a few pitches, service points and electricity. Alternatively the site further up the valley in Piazza Brembana, right at the start of the next stage.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Brembo valley, signs along the river and at car parks apply; camping on the riverbank is fined. Municipal car parks often charge for day parking, with overnighting only where signs allow it.
- Insider tip for campers
- Traffic on the SP470 backs up downvalley in the morning and upvalley in the evening – journey times in the opposite direction are shorter. Fill up with water and gas in Bergamo; in the upper valley the choice gets thin.
5Stage 5: San Pellegrino Terme to Piazza Brembana and Mezzoldo (Via Priula) (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- On the SP470 up the valley via Lenna to Piazza Brembana, then on to Mezzoldo at the foot of the Passo San Marco. The road follows the Via Priula, which Venice had built as a trade route at the end of the 16th century. Two lanes, many bends and village streets, narrower in the upper valley. About 1 hour of driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Cornello dei Tasso near Camerata Cornello: the car-free village of the Tasso family, who helped shape Europe’s postal routes in the Middle Ages, with a museum of postal history.
- Passo San Marco (around 1,990 m) as an excursion from Mezzoldo, an ascent up tight hairpins; the road is narrow throughout, so check in advance whether you can cross into the Valtellina by motorhome.
- Walks from Mezzoldo and San Simone into the Orobie Alps, with alpine huts and cheese dairies along the way.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Lenna the “CampToGo” motorhome area offers, according to directories, a few pitches with electricity and service points. In Piazza Brembana and in Mezzoldo there are municipal motorhome areas with service points; higher up are Camping San Simone and Camping Piazzatorre. Check order, season and length limits in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The upper Val Brembana is part of the Parco delle Orobie Bergamasche. At the Passo San Marco and on the alpine access roads, overnighting outside designated sites is not permitted; the pass is closed in winter because of snow.
- Insider tip for campers
- The best time to drive up the pass road is early in the morning, before the motorcycle groups are out; water at the sites higher up is not always marked as drinking water. Cheeses such as Branzi and Formai de Mut are available directly at the dairies, cheaper than in the shops in the valley.
6Stage 6: Mezzoldo (Val Brembana) to Lago d’Endine (Endine Gaiano) (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- Down through Val Brembana to Bergamo, best to cross the city by the bypass, then on the SS42 east through Val Cavallina via Trescore Balneario and Casazza to the lake. The second long driving day, mostly valley and industrial roads. A good 2 hours of driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Trescore Balneario: the Oratorio Suardi with the frescoes by Lorenzo Lotto, one of the region’s major works; visits only on a guided tour, ask the tourist office (Pro Loco) for dates in advance.
- Lakeside path and cycle path at Lago d’Endine near Piangaiano and Monasterolo del Castello, an easy walk on a level track.
- Reed belt on the shore with birds, loveliest in the early morning.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping La Tartufaia near the lake, according to directories with electricity and sanitary facilities. There are only a few pitches directly on the shore; check in the apps in advance whether a municipality designates a motorhome car park. Sites on Lago d’Iseo are about 40 minutes away.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the lake, car parks are mostly signposted with restrictions; overnighting on the shore and on the cycle path is not tolerated. The reeds are protected – entering them and disturbing them is off limits.
- Insider tip for campers
- The lake is small, shallow and reedy – more a place for walking, cycling and birdwatching than a classic swimming lake like Iseo; ask locally in advance about bathing spots and water quality. Buy your groceries in Casazza or Trescore; in the village by the lake the shops are small.
7Stage 7: Lago d’Endine to Bergamo (via the edge of Franciacorta) (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- Down Val Cavallina to Trescore, then via Credaro to Capriolo and Adro on the western edge of Franciacorta. On via Rovato to the A4, which takes you back to Bergamo. Mostly flat country roads between vineyards, industry and roundabouts; the motorway charges a toll. Just under 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Monte Orfano near Adro and Rovato: a hill with vineyards and paths above the rows of vines, with views over Franciacorta.
- Wineries on the edge of Franciacorta that offer tastings and in some cases have spaces for motorhomes.
- To finish, a last evening in Bergamo or one more look at the illuminated walls of the upper town.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Back in Bergamo, the Città dei Mille motorhome area is an option; alternatively agricampeggi and winery pitches on the edge of Franciacorta (ask about facilities in advance). More on Franciacorta, Torbiere and Lago d’Iseo in the CampingSpirit travel guide “Sparkling wine, rock carvings and a lake island – by motorhome from Brescia via Lago d’Iseo to Bergamo”.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Franciacorta, free camping is practically impossible: vineyards are private land, farm tracks are closed, and the municipalities patrol. At wineries, overnighting is possible only by arrangement.
- Insider tip for campers
- The A4 Brescia–Bergamo charges a toll; if you want to save on tolls, take the country roads through Franciacorta. During the grape harvest in autumn, traffic on the minor roads is heavier; expect tractors and trailers. Empty the motorhome at the service point before heading home.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law (Codice della Strada, Art. 185) distinguishes between “sosta” and “campeggio”: a motorhome may park, and stay overnight, wherever parking is allowed. Camping-style behaviour is prohibited – chairs, tables, awning, extended levelling legs, grey water on the ground.
- In Lombardy, municipalities also regulate motorhome parking: many places in the Bergamo valleys have prohibition signs or height barriers at car parks, especially at hiking car parks, lakesides and near waterfalls.
- The upper part of both valleys lies in the Parco delle Orobie Bergamasche, and parts of Bergamo in the Parco dei Colli di Bergamo; camping-style behaviour is prohibited there, and fines can run to three figures.
- You can stay overnight legally at campsites, municipal motorhome areas (“aree di sosta camper”) and farm or winery pitches. Useful apps: park4night, CamperOnline, Campercontact.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service points are called “camper service” or “carico e scarico” in Italy; many stations work with coins or tokens, and some are only for guests of the motorhome area.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at the station – wild dumping has led to closures of motorhome areas in many municipalities.
- Tap water in Lombardy is mostly drinkable; at fountains and motorhome areas, look out for “acqua potabile”.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not swapped in Italy, and Italian cylinders have different connections. You fill refillable cylinders and gas tanks at LPG (GPL) stations using the Italian adapter, and at many stations only through the staff. In the upper valleys, stations with LPG are rare – fill up beforehand.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on motorways; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on motorways. Caravan combinations: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on motorways. Dipped headlights are compulsory by day outside built-up areas.
- Tolls: the A4 Brescia–Bergamo is a toll road, charged by vehicle class (axles and height above the front axle, threshold 1.30 m); payment by cash, card or Telepass. The valleys themselves are toll-free.
- If a load projects beyond the rear of the vehicle – for example bicycles on a rear carrier – the red-and-white reflective warning panel is compulsory.
- Low-emission zones: Lombardy restricts older diesel vehicles in many municipalities, including Bergamo and Brescia, all year round and, in the winter half-year (1 October to 31 March), additionally when particulate pollution is high; stricter rules for Euro 5 diesels have been announced or postponed. Check your Euro class and the region’s current rules in advance. The Città Alta is a ZTL monitored by camera.
- Winter equipment (winter tyres or snow chains on board) applies on many roads from 15 November to 15 April; pass roads such as the Passo San Marco are closed in winter. Using a mobile phone while driving is prohibited, and the limit is 0.5 per mille (0.0 for novice drivers).
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Levelling ramps, step 2–3 – the small pitches in the valleys are often sloping and uneven.
- Hiking boots with good tread, a head torch and enough water for the trail to Rifugio Curò and Barbellino: springs are rare along the way, and the weather changes quickly.
- Red-and-white warning panel for the rear carrier, in case bikes or boxes project beyond the vehicle.
- Italian gas adapter for LPG stations and two full cylinders – the choice is thin in the upper valleys.
- A map of Bergamo’s ZTL zones (offline on your phone): it saves you a fine if the satnav steers you towards the upper town.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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