In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the ferry port at Portsmouth through the heath and oak woods of the New Forest, on the chain ferry to Purbeck and via Lulworth, Portland and Chesil Beach to Lyme Regis and Sidmouth: around 300 kilometres of south coast where the tide table matters more than the speedometer.
The spirit of the route
Just ten minutes off the motorway, everything changes: a cattle grid rattles under the tyres, and in the middle of the road stands a shaggy pony in no hurry at all. The New Forest is open grazing land among heather, gorse and ancient oaks, where animals have right of way. West of Poole the camper floats across the harbour mouth on a chain, and then the Jurassic Coast begins – 185 million years of Earth’s history, laid open in white chalk, grey shale and golden sandstone. In the morning you look out of the sliding door at mist over the lagoon behind Chesil Beach; in the evening the cliffs at West Bay glow orange. In between lie castle ruins, steep lanes between head-high hedges, fishing boats on the shingle beach at Beer and beaches where you can find ammonites at low tide. This coast calls for short stages, early starts and booked pitches for the night.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Portsmouth (ferry port) to Brockenhurst (New Forest) (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- From the Continental Ferry Port take the M275 onto the M27 heading west. You bypass Southampton on the motorway; at the Totton exit take the A326 towards Fawley. From Dibden the B3054 crosses open heath to Beaulieu, then the B3055 runs to Brockenhurst. A good hour of pure driving time. After the night on the ferry, these are your first kilometres on the left. The roundabouts on the M27 and at Totton are multi-lane and busy at rush hour. From Dibden onwards come cattle grids, and ponies and cattle on the road.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Beaulieu on the estuary of the Beaulieu River: mill pond, the ruins of the Cistercian abbey and the National Motor Museum on the estate.
- Bucklers Hard, the brick shipbuilding village on the river where warships were built for Nelson’s fleet – a short walk along the bank.
- Beaulieu Heath and Hatchet Pond: open heath with ponies and cattle, waterfowl on the pond and wide views over the forest.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: The Forestry England campsites in the New Forest are run under the “Camping in the New Forest” brand. Hollands Wood lies on the A337 just north of Brockenhurst under old oaks, with a toilet block and paths into the village and to the station. Roundhill lies on the B3055 towards Beaulieu on open heath and is large. On many forest sites electric hook-ups are the exception. The sites open from late March. When they close in autumn and where hook-ups and waste disposal are available, check when you book.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Wild camping is not possible in the New Forest. The Forest byelaws prohibit camping outside designated sites. The 129 Forestry England car parks charge a fee and are closed from 11 pm to 4 am. Anyone parked there overnight gets a Parking Charge Notice. There are also night patrols on verges and grassy areas, where parking damages the grazing.
- Insider tip for campers
- You pay via the RingGo app or at card machines, which only some of the larger car parks have. On the open roads the limit is mostly 40 mph. Ponies, donkeys and cattle have priority and must not be fed or petted. This is punished with fines. Drive especially slowly at night, because dark animals on the road are the most common cause of accidents in the Forest. Before the ferry: declare gas cylinders when booking and turn them off during the crossing.
2Stage 2: Brockenhurst to Christchurch (Holmsley) (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- From Brockenhurst take the Rhinefield Ornamental Drive north to the A35, continue on the other side along the Bolderwood Ornamental Drive to Bolderwood and return the same way. Both drives are narrow and shady; you drive slowly and pull into passing bays for oncoming traffic. If you want to see Lyndhurst with the New Forest Heritage Centre, take the short detour along the A35; the one-way system in the centre jams at peak times. Then take the A35 south-west and go via Burley, with its narrow village streets, to the site at Holmsley. Pure driving time around 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Bolderwood Deer Sanctuary: from a viewing platform you often see fallow deer in the clearing, and there are waymarked forest trails.
- Rhinefield Ornamental Drive with 19th-century giant redwoods and Douglas firs, starting point of the Tall Trees Walk.
- Christchurch Priory and Mudeford Quay; from Hengistbury Head you look out over Christchurch Harbour, the Needles and the Isle of Wight.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Holmsley lies on a former airfield on the south-western edge of the Forest between the A35 and Bransgore, around 8 km north of Christchurch. It is one of the larger sites in the New Forest, with a toilet block. Whether hook-ups are available and when the season ends, check when you book. If you need electricity and waste disposal, you will find several private touring parks near Christchurch and Bransgore.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the edge of the Forest and on the coast near Christchurch and Mudeford, overnight stays in car parks are also prohibited. BCP Council’s beach car parks have overnight bans and some have height barriers. Hengistbury Head is a nature reserve.
- Insider tip for campers
- You reach the car park at Hengistbury Head via the Broadway in Southbourne. A small land train runs to the headland and the beach huts on Mudeford Sandbank, but you can also walk. In Christchurch itself the car parks in the centre are tight and some have barriers. Avoid Lyndhurst at lunchtime at weekends: the one-way system in the village is often jammed then.
3Stage 3: Christchurch to Studland and Swanage (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- Through Bournemouth and Poole to the Sandbanks peninsula: heavy town traffic, many roundabouts, and in summer long queues on the Sandbanks Road. The Sandbanks Ferry chain ferry to Studland crosses the harbour mouth in about 4 minutes, normally every 20 minutes from 7 am until shortly after 11 pm, and also takes motorhomes; the fare depends on the vehicle. On the other side, Ferry Road runs through the dunes of the Studland peninsula, then via Studland to Swanage. Without the ferry it is a good 40 km more via the A35, Wareham and Corfe Castle.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Old Harry Rocks: from Studland village (car park at South Beach) you walk along the chalk path to the free-standing stacks – around 5 km there and back.
- Studland Bay with Knoll Beach, dune heath and Little Sea, a National Trust landscape with birdwatching.
- Swanage with its pier, seafront promenade and Durlston Country Park with the Great Globe and the lighthouse at Anvil Point.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Ulwell Cottage Caravan Park lies in a valley between Studland and Swanage, with pitches for motorhomes, toilets and electricity. Simpler and more rural are Acton Field near Langton Matravers, a field on an old quarry site with sea views, and Tom’s Field in the same village. Book in summer; out of season it is best to phone ahead.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The National Trust car parks at Studland charge by day (free for members) and are not open for sleeping at night. The heath and dunes are a nature reserve. Overnight stays in vehicles are not tolerated in the public car parks in Swanage either.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Sandbanks Ferry is occasionally out of service for several weeks for maintenance or breakdowns. Check its status on the ferry company’s website before you drive to Sandbanks – a detour back through Poole costs an hour in season. At summer weekends the queue for the ferry backs up deep into the peninsula. Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
4Stage 4: Swanage to Lulworth Cove (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- Take the A351 to Corfe Castle, then head south-west on narrow roads to Church Knowle and Kimmeridge. The access road to Kimmeridge Bay is a private toll road. Continue via Steeple towards East Lulworth: this road runs through the army training area (Lulworth Ranges) and is closed when firing is in progress, in which case the detour goes via Wareham and the A352. Finally take the B3070 down to West Lulworth. Steep sections, hedges right up to the edge of the road, short driving time, but you will need patience.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Corfe Castle: the shattered castle ruin on the hill above the stone village, plus the station of the steam-operated Swanage Railway.
- Kimmeridge Bay with flat shale ledges and rock pools at low tide; the Etches Collection museum in the village displays fossils from the cliffs.
- The abandoned village of Tyneham in the army ranges, accessible only on days without firing, usually at weekends and in the school holidays.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Durdle Door Holiday Park belongs to the Lulworth Estate and sits on the cliff above Durdle Door: touring area with hook-ups, toilets and waste disposal, open seasonally. Besides the touring pitches there are holiday homes and rental caravans. Book early in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Wild camping is out of the question around Lulworth and in the Ranges. The car park at the Cove belongs to the Lulworth Estate, charges a fee and is not meant for overnight stays. In the Ranges you must not leave the marked paths, because unexploded ordnance lies in the ground.
- Insider tip for campers
- Whether the range road and footpaths are open is shown on the Ministry of Defence’s Lulworth Ranges page. There are also signs on the road; red flags mean firing is in progress. The way through Corfe Castle is narrow. Park at Norden station north of the village, the Swanage Railway’s park-and-ride stop, and take the steam train or walk into the village. The road to Kimmeridge has single-track sections.
5Stage 5: Lulworth Cove to Weymouth and Portland (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From West Lulworth take the B3070 north, then the A352 and the A353 past Osmington, with its White Horse on the chalk slope, to Weymouth. Through the town to Ferrybridge and across the causeway to Portland, where the road climbs steeply to the plateau and continues to the lighthouse at Portland Bill. About 1 hour’s driving, considerably more in Weymouth in summer.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Durdle Door and Man o’War Cove: rock arch and bay below the Holiday Park, almost deserted early in the morning. The coast path to Lulworth Cove is short but steep.
- Portland Bill with its red-and-white lighthouse, Pulpit Rock and quarries; plus Tout Quarry with sculptures carved into the rock.
- Chesil Beach Centre at Ferrybridge: this is where the 29 km shingle bank begins, with the Fleet lagoon behind it.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: East Fleet Farm Touring Park near Chickerell lies right on the Fleet lagoon with views of Chesil Beach: hook-ups, toilets, shop and waste disposal, good for motorhomes. Several other farm sites, such as Bagwell Farm, are nearby. Please book in season.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Weymouth and on Portland the parking regulations of many seafront car parks prohibit overnight stays; Dorset Council patrols and issues Penalty Charge Notices. The car parks at Portland Bill are also off-limits at night. Do not plan a night off-site here.
- Insider tip for campers
- Avoid the Esplanade and the centre of Weymouth in a motorhome: pinch points, one-way streets and multi-storey car parks with height barriers. Park on the edge of town or come in by bus from the campsite. On Portland there is a large car park at the lighthouse. Keep away from the cliff edges at Portland Bill: there is surf and no railings.
6Stage 6: Weymouth to Lyme Regis (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- Via Chickerell and Portesham on the B3157, a hilly coast road with wide views over Chesil Beach, to Abbotsbury. In the village the main street is narrow between thatched cottages. Beyond Abbotsbury the road climbs steeply, then continues via Swyre and Burton Bradstock to West Bay and Bridport. Carry on along the A35 to the Charmouth roundabout, then take the A3052 to Lyme Regis. The drive takes a good hour; beyond Bridport there are short, steep climbs.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Abbotsbury: the swan colony of Abbotsbury Swannery on the Fleet and St Catherine’s Chapel on the hill, from which you can see the full length of Chesil Beach.
- West Bay: the harbour and the sheer golden sandstone cliff of East Cliff, a popular photo subject in the evening light.
- Charmouth: on the beach and at the Charmouth Heritage Coast Centre you learn where and how to collect fossils safely.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Hook Farm Caravan & Camping Park near Uplyme lies in a quiet valley just under 2 km above Lyme Regis and has hook-ups and toilets. The access road via Uplyme is narrow; large vehicles should call ahead. Near Charmouth on the A35 there are further touring parks, including Wood Farm.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The beach and clifftop car parks on the coast from Bridport to Lyme Regis are off-limits to motorhomes at night. There are patrols in West Bay, Charmouth and Lyme Regis. Farm stopovers via Britstops and the clubs’ Certificated Locations are legal alternatives.
- Insider tip for campers
- Do not drive into the centre of Lyme Regis: Broad Street is steep and narrow, and there is no room to turn at the bottom. Use the Holmbush car park at the top of the town or walk down from the site at Uplyme. Only hunt for fossils on a falling tide and never directly below the cliffs – between Charmouth and Lyme they slip regularly, and the tide cuts off sections of beach. Check the tide table.
7Stage 7: Lyme Regis to Beer and Sidmouth (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- Take the A3052 over the border into Devon and on to Seaton. The turnings down to Beer and Branscombe are steep, narrow and lined with hedges. Continue along the A3052 to Sidford, then down to Sidmouth. The shortcuts over Salcombe Hill and Peak Hill are very steep and unsuitable for larger motorhomes. Driving time under 1 hour, but you should allow plenty of time for the day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Beer: fishing boats on the shingle beach between white chalk cliffs, and in the village the underground Beer Quarry Caves dating from Roman times.
- Seaton Tramway: a narrow-gauge tram runs along the Axe estuary to Colyton, with plenty of waterfowl.
- Sidmouth: Georgian seafront, the red cliffs and the Jacob’s Ladder steps; from here you walk the coast path to Ladram Bay with its sandstone stacks.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Salcombe Regis Camping & Caravan Park lies east of Sidmouth on the plateau above the sea and has hook-ups and toilets. Above Beer is Beer Head Caravan Park. You will find further touring parks near Weston and Branscombe.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In East Devon, too, overnight stays in public car parks are largely prohibited. East Devon District Council regulates this through parking orders and patrols, especially in summer. The car parks at Beer Head and in Sidmouth are not an option at night.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Beer, park in the large car park at the top of the village, not down by the beach. In Sidmouth the car parks on the seafront are tight. From here the route can be extended into the CampingSpirit guide to the coast of Cornwall and Devon. Before heading west: empty your tanks and fill up with water before the sites close in autumn.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- England has no right to roam for camping. Wild camping and sleeping in your vehicle require the landowner’s permission. Parking is allowed where it is not prohibited, but on the coast of Dorset and East Devon many parking orders ban sleeping in vehicles, and councils such as Dorset Council and BCP Council issue Penalty Charge Notices.
- New Forest: the Forest byelaws prohibit camping outside designated sites. The Forestry England car parks charge a fee and are closed from 11 pm to 4 am – anyone parked there at night gets a Parking Charge Notice. Driving onto grass areas and verges is also prohibited.
- The National Trust (Studland, Golden Cap) and private estates such as the Lulworth Estate do not allow overnight stays in their car parks. Many car parks at beaches and in towns have height barriers of around 2 m.
- You can stay overnight legally on campsites, on Certificated Locations (Caravan and Motorhome Club) and Certificated Sites (Camping and Caravanning Club), and at farms and pubs via Britstops. park4night, Campercontact and the two clubs’ apps help with searching.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Empty toilet cassettes at Elsan points, and grey water only at designated places. You will find both almost exclusively on campsites; there are hardly any public service points on this coast.
- The Forestry England sites in the New Forest are basic: plenty of space, but often no hook-up. Plan your waste disposal at a touring park before or after.
- Tap water is drinkable. A short hose with a universal tap connector helps with British taps.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not swapped. Calor Gas and Campingaz are available with a deposit from dealers and at some sites. Refillable cylinders can be filled at autogas (LPG) filling stations with an adapter. On the ferries from France, gas cylinders must be declared and turned off.
- Electricity on British sites comes via blue CEE plugs (16 A); household sockets are Type G. A long cable pays off on large fields.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Entry: the United Kingdom is not in the EU. German citizens need a passport and, in advance, an Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA), which costs £20 and is valid for two years. Apply only via the official app or gov.uk. There are border checks at the ferry ports.
- Customs and animals: meat and dairy products from the EU may not be brought in your luggage. Dogs need a microchip, a valid rabies vaccination and the EU pet passport, which is recognised in Great Britain. In addition, a vet must treat the dog for tapeworm 24 to 120 hours (1 to 5 days) before arrival and record this in the passport. The rules are on gov.uk. Carry your vehicle registration document, driving licence and proof of insurance; check with your insurer whether a Green Card is required.
- Driving on the left: on roundabouts you drive clockwise and give way to the right. Tape or adjust your headlights. On the lanes in Purbeck and East Devon, whoever is closer to a passing place pulls in; reversing is part of it, so a reversing camera helps.
- Speed limits (mph, check on gov.uk before you travel): motorhomes up to 3,050 kg unladen weight 60 on single carriageways, 70 on dual carriageways and motorways; heavier motorhomes 50 on single carriageways, 60 on dual carriageways, 70 on motorways; car and caravan combinations 50 on single carriageways, 60 on dual carriageways and motorways. In built-up areas mostly 30, on the open roads in the New Forest mostly 40.
- Dimensions: vehicles over 3 m high must display a notice of the vehicle height in the cab; foreign vehicles should show the height in feet and metres, because bridges and barriers are signed in feet.
- Low-emission zones: Portsmouth has a Clean Air Zone in which only non-compliant buses, coaches, taxis and HGVs pay; private cars and vans do not. If you have a heavy motorhome over 3.5 t, check it in advance with the online vehicle checker. Southampton has no charging zone. On this route, tolls apply for the Sandbanks Ferry and the private road to Kimmeridge; the Dartford Crossing only affects you if you arrive via Dover and London.
- Alcohol: in England the limit is 0.8 per mille in the blood, or 35 µg per 100 ml of breath. You must not hold your phone while driving. Winter tyres are not compulsory.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Tide table (app or printout) – on the Jurassic Coast the tide decides when fossil hunting, beach walks and the path to Man o’War Cove are possible.
- Magnifying glass, bags and newspaper for fossils: there is no hammering at the cliffs, and the best finds lie loose on the beach after storms.
- Reversing camera or a good guide outside: on the lanes in Purbeck and around Beer you often have to back up to the last passing place.
- Height notice in the cab showing the vehicle height in feet and metres – barriers and bridges in Britain are mostly signed in feet.
- Hose with a universal tap connector and a long CEE cable for the large forest sites in the New Forest.
- Windproof and waterproof jacket and sturdy shoes: the coast path is steep, and the weather on the Channel coast changes quickly.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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