In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Adelaide through the vineyards of McLaren Vale to Encounter Bay, by ferry across Backstairs Passage and right across Kangaroo Island to the Remarkable Rocks: around 750 road kilometres, two 45-minute sea crossings and evenings when the kangaroos stand closer to the camper than the neighbours.
The spirit of the route
Beyond Adelaide the land quickly opens up: vines on red earth in McLaren Vale, then the green hills of the Fleurieu Peninsula, dropping steeply into the Southern Ocean. At Cape Jervis the camper rolls into the belly of the ferry, and three quarters of an hour later you reach an island that is larger than Saarland and has neither foxes nor rabbits. On Kangaroo Island you drive for hours through eucalyptus, sheep pasture and bushland that was black after the 2019/20 fires and today is growing back, with green shoots on charred trunks and flowering grass trees. From the sliding door you see Australian sea lions on the beach at Seal Bay, orange lichen on the granite boulders at the cape and pelicans over the lagoon. In the evening kangaroos graze at the edge of the campground, and the starry sky over the south coast is as dark as it can only be far from any town.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Adelaide to McLaren Vale (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- Out of the city southwards on South Road or the Southern Expressway, multi-lane as far as Old Noarlunga and slow in rush-hour traffic, then on country roads between vineyards into the little town of McLaren Vale. Just under an hour's driving – enough time for a detour to the coast at Port Noarlunga or Port Willunga.
- Highlights & must-sees
- d’Arenberg Cube: the winery's cube-shaped visitor centre with views over the valley.
- Shiraz Trail: a cycling and walking path on the old railway line between McLaren Vale and Willunga, flat and ideal for visiting the wineries without a vehicle.
- Port Willunga: sandstone cliffs, fishermen's caves cut into the rock and the wooden piles of the old jetty in the evening light.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: McLaren Vale Lakeside Caravan Park on the edge of town: powered sites, toilets and showers, camp kitchen and dump point, within walking distance of the town and the Shiraz Trail. Book at weekends and in the school holidays.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In greater Adelaide and in the City of Onkaparinga, sleeping in your vehicle in beach and street car parks is not permitted; the coast is patrolled. Book a caravan park for the first night – you have shopping and filling up with water ahead of you anyway.
- Insider tip for campers
- Stock up for several days in Adelaide or at the large supermarkets in the south of the city: on Kangaroo Island food and fuel are more expensive and the choice is smaller. At wine tastings the driver's limit is 0.5 ‰ – better to do the Shiraz Trail on foot or by bike.
2Stage 2: McLaren Vale to Victor Harbor (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- Via Willunga up Willunga Hill – a long, well-built climb with overtaking lanes – and south across the plateau with views of the gulf, then down in gentle undulations to Encounter Bay. Around 45 minutes, a little more with the loop via Port Elliot.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Granite Island: across the new causeway on foot or by horse-drawn tram (daily except Christmas Day, weather permitting) to the granite island, with a loop walk between rounded boulders.
- The Bluff (Rosetta Head) at the western end of the bay: a short, steep climb with views over the whole of Encounter Bay.
- Horseshoe Bay in Port Elliot with the rock path to Commodore Point; from June to September southern right whales pass close to the coast, and the South Australian Whale Centre in Victor Harbor has information on current sightings.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: NRMA Victor Harbor Beachfront Holiday Park right on the beach: powered sites, toilets and showers, dump point. Quieter and with views of the bay: the holiday park at Horseshoe Bay in Port Elliot.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The City of Victor Harbor does not allow camping on public land or in foreshore car parks; the Esplanade and the lookouts are patrolled. Plan a night at a caravan park here.
- Insider tip for campers
- Use the dump point and fresh water at the caravan park before heading for the ferry. In winter, when the whales are here, parking at The Bluff is tight; early in the morning you have the best chance with a camper.
3Stage 3: Victor Harbor to American River (Kangaroo Island) (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- Via Inman Valley and through the hills to Yankalilla onto Main South Road (B23), and along it to the ferry port of Cape Jervis – around 75 km, winding with short, steep climbs in the valleys. The ferry crossing over Backstairs Passage takes about 45 minutes and is rough in a south-westerly wind. From Penneshaw a good 35 km on the sealed Hog Bay Road to American River.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Second Valley and Rapid Bay: jetty and rocky cove; leafy seadragons live at Rapid Bay Jetty – one for snorkellers.
- Cape Jervis: southern end of the Heysen Trail, a short walk to the light with a view across to the island.
- Prospect Hill on Hog Bay Road near Pennington Bay: a steep staircase up the hill from which Matthew Flinders surveyed the island in 1802 – views over both coasts.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: American River Campground, run by the Kangaroo Island council, right on the sheltered bay: a basic site for self-contained campers, dump point at the Tangara Drive entrance; check facilities such as showers or power in advance. The council does not provide drinking water at its campgrounds. Numbered sites can be booked online via the Kangaroo Island Council booking system (Bookeasy).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping is not welcome on Kangaroo Island: the council directs campers to its seven campgrounds, and because of past environmental damage locals are sensitive about wild campers. Do not stay overnight in the car parks at the Penneshaw ferry terminal.
- Insider tip for campers
- Book the ferry early; in summer and in the holidays vehicle spaces are scarce. Fares depend on vehicle length (up to 5 m, 5.1–5.9 m, over 6 m), measured including bike racks and roof fittings. Vehicles over 5.9 m long or over 2.3 m high – that is, most high-roof campervans – cannot be booked online, only by phone with the operator. Biosecurity: honey, honeycomb, beeswax products, bees and beekeeping equipment are not allowed on the island (a sanctuary for the Ligurian bee), unwashed potatoes and seed potatoes are restricted, and fruit and vegetables count as risk items – check the current list from PIRSA before you set off. There are amnesty bins at the Cape Jervis ferry terminal.
4Stage 4: American River to Vivonne Bay via Kingscote and Seal Bay (approx. 120 km)
- The drive
- Around 35 km to Kingscote, then south on Birchmore Road or via Cygnet River through farmland and bush to Seal Bay Road; finally west along South Coast Road to Vivonne Bay. All sealed, but narrow and without shoulders, with animals on and beside the road. About 2 hours' driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Kingscote: Reeves Point with the site of the first settlement of 1836 and the old mulberry tree, pelicans at the wharf.
- Seal Bay Conservation Park: Australian sea lions on the beach – independently on the boardwalk or onto the beach on a ranger-guided tour; tickets at the visitor centre or online in advance.
- Little Sahara: white shifting dunes in the middle of the bush east of Vivonne Bay; sandboards can be hired on site.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Vivonne Bay Campground, run by the council, behind the dunes near the mouth of the Harriet River: a basic site with toilets and BBQ, check the facilities in detail in advance; bring your own drinking water. Book online via the Kangaroo Island Council.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Staying overnight in beach car parks and at lookouts on the south coast is not permitted. Seal Bay is a protected area with fixed opening hours; dogs and drones are not allowed there.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up, shop and use the dump point in neighbouring Brownlow while in Kingscote. On the way to Seal Bay, Clifford’s honey farm near Haines is worth a stop for Ligurian honey and honey ice cream. In Vivonne Bay the general store has a fuel pump.
5Stage 5: Vivonne Bay to Flinders Chase National Park (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- Around 55 km west on South Coast Road to the new visitor centre at the park boundary, then on the sealed park roads to the Remarkable Rocks and to Cape du Couedic with Admirals Arch (each a good 15 km from the visitor centre). A quiet drive through bush that has been growing back since the fires; be sure to drive slowly between dusk and night.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Remarkable Rocks: wind-hollowed granite boulders with orange lichen on a dome above the sea, at their best early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
- Admirals Arch at Cape du Couedic: a boardwalk down to the rock arch with a colony of long-nosed fur seals, and the 1909 lighthouse above.
- Platypus Waterholes Walk from the visitor centre: a loop through the regenerating forest to the waterholes on the Rocky River.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Rocky River Campground in the park, near the visitor centre: 21 sites, some for campervans and camper trailers, two drive-through sites for caravans, flush toilets and hot showers, no power. Bookable online only via National Parks and Wildlife Service SA; dogs not allowed. Alternative with power: Western KI Caravan Park on South Coast Road with a 24-hour fuel station.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the national park only at booked campgrounds; Snake Lagoon is suitable only for tents and small camper trailers, West Bay only for 4WD, Harvey’s Return depending on track conditions. Campfires are heavily restricted at national park campgrounds, and collecting firewood is prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- Park entry is charged per person and must be paid before you enter – online or at the visitor centre with “The Rocks Café”. In severe storms the Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch are closed. The fires in the summer of 2019/20 swept across almost the entire west of the island, and the old visitor centre burned down; the boardwalks have been rebuilt and the ecosystem is recovering – stay on the paths to protect young plants.
6Stage 6: Flinders Chase to Stokes Bay (approx. 95 km)
- The drive
- Back east on South Coast Road and north on West End Highway to Playford Highway, then via connecting roads to North Coast Road and down to Stokes Bay. Playford Highway is now sealed all the way, but many connecting roads and spur roads to the north coast are gravel – check the state of the tracks and your rental conditions beforehand. About 1.5–2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary near the park boundary: koalas in the manna gums, visits only on a tour booked in advance.
- Stokes Bay: a narrow passage through the rocks leads you to a hidden beach with a large natural rock pool – safe for swimming at low tide.
- Snellings Beach: a lookout on North Coast Road above the wide bay at the mouth of the Middle River.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Stokes Bay Campground, run by the council, right behind the beach: sites for campers and caravans, toilets, BBQ, no power, no showers and no drinking water – arrive with a full tank. Book via the Kangaroo Island Council.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Western River Cove is a council campground, but the access road is steep and unsealed and not suitable for caravans and motorhomes. If you want to camp there, you need a small 4WD camper. Free camping on the north coast is not allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- In the west of the island fuel is available only at Western KI Caravan Park and in Parndana – fill up before the north coast. Parndana also has a dump point at the Lions Park. On gravel, adjust your speed and tyre pressure: corrugations and loose bends are tricky in a tall camper.
7Stage 7: Stokes Bay to Deep Creek National Park via Emu Bay and the ferry (approx. 140 km)
- The drive
- Around 40 km east on North Coast Road to Emu Bay, then via Kingscote and Hog Bay Road back to Penneshaw (around 80 km in all). After the crossing, a good 20 km from Cape Jervis over the hills to Deep Creek National Park, the last few kilometres on gravel. A long day with a fixed ferry time – allow a buffer.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Emu Bay: kilometres of white sandy beach with a jetty, sheltered and shallow – one of the calmest swimming beaches on the north coast.
- Kangaroo Island Spirits near Cygnet River: a small distillery making gin from native plants, on the way to Kingscote (the driver doesn't taste).
- Penneshaw: Frenchman’s Rock on the shore, with the replica inscription from the 1803 Baudin expedition.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Stringybark Campground in Deep Creek National Park: sites in eucalyptus forest, some for campervans, camper trailers and caravans, flush toilets, hot showers, fire pits (seasonal fire bans). Fee per site per night, park entry included; book online. The park's other campgrounds lie on steeper tracks and are better suited to tents.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the Fleurieu Peninsula between Cape Jervis and Victor Harbor, beach and lookout car parks are off-limits for overnight stays; the national park campgrounds are the legal alternative, close to nature. If you haven't got a site, plan your return towards Normanville and Yankalilla to the caravan parks there.
- Insider tip for campers
- Emu Bay Campground (toilets, BBQ, no water) is suitable if you spread the return over two days. Use the dump point in Penneshaw before the ferry; Penneshaw gets its water from a desalination plant. At the terminal vehicles wait in lanes, drivers stay with their vehicle and passengers board on foot.
8Stage 8: Deep Creek to Adelaide (approx. 105 km)
- The drive
- Via Delamere back to Main South Road, through Yankalilla and Normanville north along the gulf coast, then over Sellicks Hill and through Aldinga into the southern suburbs. The climb at Sellicks Hill is long, otherwise it's relaxed. A good 1.5 hours without stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Deep Creek Waterfall Hike or the section of the Heysen Trail to Blowhole Beach: steep but rewarding walks to the wild south coast with views back to Kangaroo Island – in the morning before you leave.
- Normanville: a long sandy beach and jetty, with room on the dune paths for a lunch stop.
- Sellicks Beach: views from the cliff road across Gulf St Vincent to the Adelaide coast.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: For a last night before returning the vehicle, a caravan park in Adelaide is a good choice, for example in West Beach near the airport, with power, fresh water and waste disposal, toilets and showers – handy for clearing out and cleaning.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Within the Adelaide metropolitan area, staying overnight in public car parks is not allowed; there are no rest areas on this short stage.
- Insider tip for campers
- Emptying the cassette, draining the grey water and filling up the tank are usually part of the return conditions for rental vehicles – WikiCamps and CamperMate show dump points. In Deep Creek, western grey kangaroos graze right next to the sites in the evening: leave food in the vehicle and don't feed them.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- South Australia has no statewide free-camping permission: on council land the councils decide by by-law, and in national parks and conservation parks the National Parks and Wildlife Service SA does. On the Fleurieu Peninsula and in greater Adelaide, staying overnight in beach, foreshore and town car parks is prohibited practically everywhere.
- Kangaroo Island: the council runs seven campgrounds (American River, Brown Beach, Duck Lagoon, Emu Bay, Stokes Bay, Vivonne Bay, Western River Cove), bookable online in advance (Bookeasy). They are basic sites for self-sufficient campers, not caravan parks, and none of them provides drinking water; camping outside them is not welcome. From October to April, book ahead or arrive early in the day.
- National parks such as Flinders Chase and Deep Creek: camping only at booked campgrounds, with bookings and park fees online via National Parks and Wildlife Service SA. Dogs are not allowed at national park campgrounds, but they are at the island's council campgrounds.
- Rest areas on highways are for driving breaks; stay overnight only where it is not signposted as prohibited – on this route they hardly matter. For finding sites and dump points and for current user tips, WikiCamps and CamperMate are standard in Australia.
- Fire: the CFS sets a Fire Danger Season for the Kangaroo Island and Mount Lofty Ranges districts, usually from around November to April. Open fires are then prohibited; on days of “Catastrophic” fire danger, council and national park campgrounds close. Collecting firewood in parks is prohibited, and at the roadside only with council permission.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump points on Kangaroo Island: American River Campground (Tangara Drive entrance), Brownlow, Parndana and Penneshaw. On the mainland mostly at caravan parks. Never empty into public toilets or drains.
- Drinking water: Kingscote and Parndana have mains water, Penneshaw water from the desalination plant. The council campgrounds do not provide drinking water; boil water from rainwater tanks before drinking; arrive with a full fresh-water tank and 20 litres in reserve.
- Gas: Australian cylinders today mostly have an LCC27 valve, older ones a POL fitting. You can swap empty cylinders at service stations and shops on the mainland through the swap system; on the island the supply is limited – cross over with full cylinders. European cylinders are not refilled.
- Fuel on the island only in Penneshaw, Kingscote, Parndana, Vivonne Bay and at Western KI Caravan Park (24 hours). Prices are higher than on the mainland; fill up before the west and the north coast. On the mainland, fuel in Adelaide and Victor Harbor is cheaper than in Cape Jervis.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Drive on the left. The limit is 50 km/h in built-up areas and 100 km/h outside them unless signposted otherwise; 110 km/h on designated highways. On Kangaroo Island watch the signs and drive considerably slower on gravel. When passing stationary emergency vehicles with flashing red or blue lights and stationary breakdown vehicles with flashing yellow lights, South Australia requires 25 km/h. There are no toll roads in South Australia – the ferry is the only toll on the route.
- Animals on the road: kangaroos, tammar wallabies, echidnas and goannas cross mainly at dusk and at night. On the island drive only in daylight if possible, and if there are animals on the road brake in a straight line rather than swerving.
- Rental campervans: taking the vehicle to Kangaroo Island often has to be approved by the rental company in advance; many contracts exclude or restrict insurance cover for driving on unsealed roads or after dark. For the ferry booking, give the exact length and height including racks.
- Unsealed roads: many access roads to the north coast, to West Bay and to some Deep Creek campgrounds are gravel, some of them steep (Western River Cove). After rain, West Bay Road and Shackle Road are closed. Drive slowly, keep your distance and expect stone chips.
- Blood alcohol limit 0.5 ‰, zero for novice drivers. Using a phone while driving is prohibited without a hands-free kit, and cameras also check seatbelt and phone use. A German driving licence is only valid together with an International Driving Permit or an official translation.
- Park fees: Flinders Chase charges entry per person, payable online or at the visitor centre before you enter; Seal Bay charges entry or a tour fee; at the Deep Creek campgrounds park entry is included in the site fee. Multi-park passes are available – check current conditions before your trip.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Collapsible 20-litre water container: the island's council campgrounds and the national park sites have little or no drinking water.
- Tape measure and photos of the vehicle with rack: the ferry charges by length, and vehicles over 5.9 m or 2.3 m high must be booked by phone.
- A second full gas cylinder with LCC27 fitting – on the island swapping is only possible to a limited extent.
- Seasickness tablets: Backstairs Passage is rough in a south-westerly wind.
- Head torch with red light for watching wildlife in the evening without dazzling the kangaroos.
- Windproof jacket and hat: at Cape du Couedic and on the south coast a cold wind blows off the Southern Ocean even in summer.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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