In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Tromsø over the Lyngen Alps and Alta, through the North Cape Tunnel to the cape, then via Porsanger and Tana to the Varangerfjord: around 1,400 kilometres through Finnmark, where fuel stops, reindeer and the light set the pace.
The spirit of the route
Beyond Tromsø the map stops promising order. The road follows fjords, climbs over bare plateaus where reindeer herds claim the carriageway for themselves, and dives into a tunnel that runs 212 metres below sea level. In summer the sun does not set: at two in the morning the light lies golden on the roof vents, and the coffee tastes of salt air and birch smoke. From the open sliding door you see the Lyngen Alps, skerry coast, tundra and, in the end, nothing but sea. The driving is unhurried, but the distances are serious: between towns there are often a hundred kilometres without a filling station, wind can close the mountain roads, and mosquitoes make no exception in July. If you plan ahead, you get a piece of Europe that still smells of open space.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Tromsø to Skibotn (via the Lyngen Peninsula) (approx. 180 km)
- The drive
- From Tromsø cross the bridge to the mainland and follow the E8 south to Breivikeidet, then take the ferry to Svensby on the Lyngen Peninsula. Continue on the Fv91 via Lyngseidet along the fjord and round the southern tip of the Lyngenfjord to Skibotn. The Fv91 is narrow, with passing places and winding sections; driving time alone is about 3.5 hours plus a ferry crossing of around 20 minutes (operator Norled). Check the timetable and ferry capacity in advance; in summer the waits are longest in the afternoon.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Tromsø: the Fjellheisen cable car up Storsteinen (around 420 m) with views over the city, the sound and the mountains, plus the Arctic Cathedral on the mainland side.
- Lyngen Alps: from the Fv91 between Svensby and Lyngseidet, the chain of peaks with Jiehkkevárri (1,833 m, the highest mountain in Troms) stands directly opposite the road.
- Skibotn: the valley mouth at the southern end of the Lyngenfjord is a trading place thanks to its closeness to the Finnish border, with a traditional market in January.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Skibotn Camping in the village by the fjord, with electricity, sanitary facilities and a kitchen; Olderelv Camping right next door is an alternative. In Tromsø itself: Tromsø Lodge & Camping in Tromsdalen with electricity, service facilities and sanitary block, good for the evening before, with a bus into the city. At most sites the season runs from about June to early September; check opening times in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Norwegian right of public access (Allemannsretten) applies to tents and walkers, not expressly to motorhomes. Overnighting in the vehicle is tolerated where parking is allowed, not on farmland, and at about 150 m from inhabited houses; signs take precedence. On the Lyngenfjord the lay-bys are small and often private: if in doubt, ask or switch to a campsite.
- Insider tip for campers
- Before leaving Tromsø, fill up with fuel, check your gas and buy supplies: prices and selection are much worse in Finnmark. Bad weather can delay the ferry at Breivikeidet; find out in advance from the operator whether ferry fares are graded by vehicle length. The Fv91 to Skibotn is used by motorhomes mainly in the summer holidays; start early so you do not end up behind coaches.
2Stage 2: Skibotn to Alta (approx. 225 km)
- The drive
- On the E6 along the Lyngenfjord via Olderdalen and Nordreisa to Storslett in the Reisa valley, then over the Kvænangsfjell with its moorland and reindeer pastures down to the Kvænangsfjord and via Alteidet and Langfjordbotn to Alta. Well built throughout, with the occasional tunnel and wind on the plateau. Driving time about 4 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Storslett in the Reisa valley: the village is the gateway to Reisa National Park; the river with the Mollisfossen waterfall can only be reached on foot or by boat.
- Kvænangsfjell: bleak plateau with lakes and reindeer herds in summer, viewpoint parking areas along the E6.
- Alta Museum: the rock carvings at Hjemmeluft are a World Heritage Site, with boardwalks through the site and the museum right on the fjord.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Alta Strand Camping and Camp Alta lie side by side on the Altafjord in the Alta Sentrum district, both with electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal; Alta River Camping on the Altaelva is quieter and popular with anglers. Solvang Camping Alta is a little outside, to the east. Reserve pitches before the July high season.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): There are numerous rest areas on the E6 intended for breaks; according to Statens vegvesen they are not meant for longer camping, and chairs and awning do not belong. Fines for improper camping vary by location; amounts are not documented. In Finnmark most of the land belongs to the landowner company Finnmarkseiendommen (FeFo); observe the rules there for tents and vehicles in advance.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up in Storslett or Sørkjosen and then again in Alta; over the Kvænangsfjell the supply is thin. Reindeer stand on the E6 and do not move aside: drive slowly, keep your distance, and report collisions to the police immediately (emergency number 112). Alta has a Vinmonopolet for wine and spirits; in supermarkets you can buy beer only during limited hours, not on Sundays.
3Stage 3: Alta to Honningsvåg (Magerøya) (approx. 290 km)
- The drive
- From Alta take the E6 over the plateau to the Repparfjord, past Skaidi (turn-off to Hammerfest) to the Porsangerfjord, and join the E69 at Olderfjord. From there head north along the fjord, through several tunnels and through the 6.9 km North Cape Tunnel (up to 212 m below the sea, gradient around 9%) to Magerøya and on to Honningsvåg. The tunnel has been toll-free since 2012; the road is open all year but can be closed in storms. About 5 hours' driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Repparfjord and Skaidi: wide plateau with viewpoints, reindeer enclosures and small fishing villages; if you have more time, drive the 70 km from Skaidi to Hammerfest and back.
- Porsangerfjord: the long fjord coast of the E69 with driftwood beaches and the entrance to Stabbursdalen on the E6.
- Honningsvåg: fishing harbour and small church of 1885, one of the few buildings to survive the German troops' retreat in 1944.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Nordkapp Camping in the bay at Nordvågen just before Honningsvåg, with electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal. Hytte Camp Nordkapp and BaseCamp NorthCape lie further north near Skarsvåg. Along the route: Repparfjord Camping and Misjonssenter near Skaidi and Russenes Camping on the E6/E69. The season usually ends in late August or early September.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the E6 rest areas and on the fjords between Alta and Olderfjord you can usually stay in summer; take bans on site seriously. On Magerøya, space and wind are the bottleneck: open plateau car parks are exposed, no-parking signs are frequent, and night-parking times are not uniform.
- Insider tip for campers
- Drive this stage with a full tank: between Alta and Skaidi and between Olderfjord and Honningsvåg there are in places more than 100 km without a filling station. In the tunnel, use dipped headlights and keep a good distance, and because of the 9% gradient do not let the engine overheat when climbing against oncoming traffic. Honningsvåg has grocery shops and a gas bottle outlet; prices are higher than in Alta.
4Stage 4: Honningsvåg to North Cape and Skarsvåg (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- On the E69 from Honningsvåg north across the island to the fishing village of Skarsvåg and on over the open plateau to the North Cape plateau (307 m above the sea). It is around 34 km from Honningsvåg, about 45 minutes' driving time; the road is wide but exposed. In winter, traffic between Skarsvåg and the plateau runs only in convoy. The drive back to Skarsvåg for the night is around 14 km.
- Highlights & must-sees
- North Cape Hall on the plateau with globe monument, panorama cinema and chapel; check admission, prices and opening times in advance with the operator.
- Knivskjellodden: hiking trail over rock and moor to the northernmost point of Europe, which actually lies slightly further north than the cape; about 9 km one way.
- Skarsvåg: one of the northernmost fishing villages in Europe, with fish drying and small boats in the harbour.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Skarsvåg, Hytte Camp Nordkapp (formerly Nordkapp Caravan og Camping) and BaseCamp NorthCape lie right in the village; electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal vary. Other sites (such as “Kirkeporten Camping”) are known only from travel reports and need to be checked on the spot. At the start and end of the season check opening times in advance; outside summer only part of the facilities is often open here.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): According to reports, overnighting is not intended on the North Cape plateau and the parking stay is limited in time (check the duration on site); a pitch at the camp in Skarsvåg is the alternative. On Magerøya itself the general rules apply: parking allowed, camping not, distance to houses, no chairs or awnings in car parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- The midnight sun is visible at the North Cape from about mid-May (around 14 May) to the end of July; whether you can see the sun in fog is up to the weather. Choose a late-evening visit, when the coaches have gone, and avoid the plateau approach during a storm warning. In the winter half-year the weather decides on convoy operation; Statens vegvesen gave fixed convoy times for winter 2025/26 on the E69 between Skarsvågkrysset and the North Cape plateau (from Skarsvåg e.g. 8.30, 10.00, 12.00, 14.30 and 19.30); check current times before travelling in the “Vegvesen trafikk” app.
5Stage 5: Skarsvåg to Lakselv (Porsanger) (approx. 190 km)
- The drive
- Back on the E69 through the North Cape Tunnel to Olderfjord and east on the E6 along the Porsangerfjord to Lakselv. Mostly good road with long straights that reindeer herds cross. About 3.5 hours' driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Porsangerfjord: one of the longest fjords in Norway, the E6 follows the west shore with numerous lay-bys.
- Stabbursnes and Stabbursdalen: nature reserve with birdlife and a visitor centre near Lakselv, a short walk to the river mouth.
- Lakselv: administrative centre of the Porsanger region, starting point of the road to Karasjok (Sámi centre with parliament).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Fjordutsikten Motell & Camping near Lakselv on the fjord, with motorhome pitches, and Stabbursdalen Resort at the entrance to Stabbursdalen National Park. Both with electricity and sanitary facilities; check opening times outside summer in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Along the E6 there are numerous rest areas and lay-bys where people stay in summer; access to river and beach is allowed in many places, but restrictions apply on private land and in the national park. Wild camping is not regulated for motorhomes but tolerated: keep your distance, leave no rubbish, and do not empty grey water.
- Insider tip for campers
- Lakselv is the last larger town with a supermarket, filling station and pharmacy before East Finnmark; fill up here. The road to Karasjok branches off here; if you want to visit Sápmi, plan a day for it. With dusk in autumn the risk from wildlife crossings rises; in summer reindeer are on the road during the day.
6Stage 6: Lakselv to Tana bru (approx. 195 km)
- The drive
- On the E6 from Lakselv through uninhabited country, on across the plateau, along the Tana region with birch and river landscapes down to the bridge at Tana bru. Well built, but with few settlements, reindeer on the carriageway and rare filling stations. Driving time about 3.5 to 4 hours. On this stage there is occasional storm and fog on the plateau.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Børselv and the plateau beyond: plateau with long views to the Barents Sea coast; reindeer in summer, and in autumn the herds on the move.
- Tana valley: the River Tana (Deatnu) forms the border with Finland over long stretches; salmon fishing with a licence, river with sandbars.
- Tana bru: bridge over the river and Sámi craftspeople (duodji), knitwear and markets in the village.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Tana Hotel og Camping and Tana Familiecamping in Tana bru, both with electricity and sanitary facilities. Into Finland along the Tana (Utsjoki, about 50 km) there are further sites such as Nivajoen camping; the Finnish right of public access (jokamiehenoikeus) applies there to tents, not to motorhomes.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On this stretch lay-bys are rare and exposed to the wind; camping in the vehicle is only tolerated where it does not disturb, and not on the pastures of reindeer herders. On the River Tana and on the Finnish bank fishing and access rules apply; do not fish without a licence.
- Insider tip for campers
- Lakselv to Tana bru: fill up in Lakselv and check the few stations along the way (not all are open around the clock). Finland, like Norway, belongs to the Schengen area, and spot checks are possible; Norway is not an EU member and customs import limits apply to meat, dairy products, alcohol and tobacco. If you drive a little way into Finland, fuel is usually cheaper there.
7Stage 7: Tana bru to Vestre Jakobselv (near Vadsø) (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- On the E6 from Tana bru to Varangerbotn, there join the E75 and follow the Varangerfjord east via Nesseby, then across flat coastal land to Vestre Jakobselv. Well built coastal road with wide views and few bends, about 2 hours' driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Varangerbotn: Varanger Samiske Museum with an exhibition on Sámi history, at the head of the fjord.
- Nesseby: wooden church of 1858 on the fjord, one of the few churches in Finnmark to survive the war.
- Ekkerøy near Vadsø: bird cliff with kittiwakes, walking paths across the island with its rocky coast.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Vestre Jakobselv Camping with electricity, sanitary facilities and a kitchen, beside the river, with motorhome pitches; a good base for the Varanger days. In Varangerbotn itself there is Varjjat, a guesthouse with pitches.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Along the E75 there are many lay-bys; overnighting is tolerated as long as vehicles do not set up camp. In Vadsø and Vardø the municipalities restrict camping on public sites; observe the signs at harbours.
- Insider tip for campers
- Vadsø has supermarkets and filling stations; supplies there are much better than on the way between Tana bru and Vardø. The coastal air is raw, wind and fog arrive quickly, and the Barents Sea stays cold even in July.
8Stage 8: Vestre Jakobselv to Vardø (round trip) (approx. 170 km)
- The drive
- Continue on the E75 through Vadsø and along the coastal road with the undersea tunnel to Vardø on the island of Vardøya. About 70 km one way from Vadsø, then back to Vestre Jakobselv or as far as Vadsø. About 1.5 hours out; the road is good, but there are only a few settlements; wind load by the sea.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Vardøhus Fortress: the northernmost fortress in the world, from the 18th century, with walls and casemates by the sea.
- Steilneset Memorial for the victims of the witch trials of 1600–1692, a work by Peter Zumthor and Louise Bourgeois.
- Hornøya bird cliff: boat trips to puffins, common guillemots and razorbills in summer.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: For Vardø, pitches at the harbour are known only from apps and travel reports; check availability and facilities in advance in park4night or Campercontact. The drive back to the site near Vestre Jakobselv or Vadsø is the reliable option. If you go on to Kirkenes, you will find sites near Neiden, for example; there the border area with Russia begins, with restrictions.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Vardø parking in the village is possible; whether overnighting in the vehicle is allowed, clarify in advance with the municipality or on site. By the sea car parks are often windy and open. Near the Russian border (Kirkenes, Pasvik) access and photography restrictions apply: observe the signs and drive in the border area only on public roads.
- Insider tip for campers
- The trip to Vardø is a remote outing: fill up in Vadsø, and in autumn return before dusk. If you want to go further, drive from Varangerbotn to Kirkenes (E6, around 140 km) or back via Karasjok; the Norway–Finland border area only at the edge; for the return journey south the route via Karigasniemi (Finland) is an alternative, so check road condition and fuel options in advance.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Norwegian right of public access (Allemannsretten, friluftsloven): camping in a tent is allowed for one night on uncultivated land, at least 150 m from inhabited houses. For motorhomes this does not apply automatically: parking is allowed where it is not prohibited, overnighting in the vehicle is tolerated, camping (chairs, tables, awning) is not. Off-road driving is forbidden.
- From 15 April to 15 September a nationwide ban on open fires in and near forest applies; forest and moor fires are rarer in the north, but possible. Nature reserves, national parks (Reisa, Stabbursdalen, Øvre Anárjohka) and bird cliffs have their own rules. In Finnmark most of the land belongs to FeFo; tent rules apply there, so check access and harvesting rules briefly in advance.
- Hotspots such as Tromsø, Lyngen, Alta, Magerøya and the North Cape plateau have parking bans, time limits or checks; violations can lead to fines; amounts are not documented. Reindeer herders (Sámi) graze their herds beside roads too: do not split or startle herds, and close gates.
- Apps: park4night, Campercontact, the pitch guides and “Tømmestasjoner i Norge” for disposal points. In October most campsites in the north are closed; clarify alternatives in advance.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Disposal is called “tømmestasjon” in Norway; there are around 400 public points nationwide, in Finnmark only at a few filling stations, rest areas and campsites. Empty grey water and cassette only there, not into road drains.
- Drinking water in Norway is of good quality almost everywhere, with taps at filling stations and rest areas. In winter pipes and hoses freeze; keep antifreeze ready.
- Gas: Norway uses pure propane in AGA and Linde bottles; German exchange bottles are not swapped. Options are full bottles from home, refilling through providers with an adapter, or a Norwegian bottle plus adapter. Autogas (LPG) is hardly available; clarify refillable bottles with the adapter in advance.
- Filling stations are thinly spread in Finnmark: between Alta and Skaidi, Olderfjord and Honningsvåg, and Lakselv and Tana bru there are in places over 100 km without a station, and some pumps are card-only or closed at night. Top up when the tank is down to three quarters. Alcohol: wine and spirits are sold only at the Vinmonopolet (Tromsø, Alta, Honningsvåg), beer in supermarkets only at fixed times.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: outside built-up areas 80 km/h is the rule, 90 km/h on expressways, up to 110 km/h on motorways; for motorhomes over 3.5 t and combinations 80 km/h. Dipped headlights are compulsory day and night. Alcohol limit 0.2 per mille, no mobile phone at the wheel.
- Dimensions: width 2.55 m, height 4.00 m, length for single vehicles up to about 12 m; combinations are restricted. On narrow side roads and ferries length is decisive; ferry fares are usually based on vehicle length, so check the bands with the operator.
- Tolls: no vignette; AutoPASS toll rings (Tromsø and individual road sections) read the number plate. Foreign vehicles under 3.5 t register online (for example via Epass24), otherwise surcharges or an invoice by post follow. Separate rules apply to vehicles over 3.5 t; clarify with AutoPASS in advance. The North Cape Tunnel has been toll-free since 2012.
- Winter: winter tyres or snow chains are required in snow and ice; in the north the weather is wintry from October. Studded tyres are allowed only in a set period; different dates apply in the north than in the south, so check the current position in advance. In winter the E69 to the North Cape plateau is driven only in convoy; times are published by Statens vegvesen.
- Wildlife: reindeer by the road everywhere in summer, moose in the forest, in autumn dusk and darkness. Collisions must be reported to the police (112). Warning triangle and high-visibility vest compulsory; Norway is a non-EU country, so observe customs rules for food, alcohol and tobacco.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Insect screens and mosquito spray for windows, door and head – in July it is mosquito season on the plateau, with screens for roof vents and the driver's cab.
- Blackout material (insulation mats, sleep mask) for the midnight sun: if you want to sleep, you need opaque curtains for the windscreen and roof vents.
- Spare jerrycan and jerrycan holder – filling stations in Finnmark are in places more than 100 km apart, and an extra 20 litres in reserve spares you stress.
- Gas adapter (GOK D2) and two full bottles on entry; refilling or exchanging is possible only with specialist providers.
- Winter equipment from autumn: snow chains for the drive axle, ice scraper, hand brush, water bags against frost, warm sleeping bags.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
