In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Ellsworth via Mount Desert Island and Schoodic to West Quoddy Head: five stages along the coast where the sun rises first.
The spirit of the route
Down East is what Maine calls the part of the coast that sails ‘down’ to the east with the wind: pink granite, spruce forest and fog that lies over the bays until noon. On Mount Desert Island the road climbs between lakes and mountains to Cadillac Mountain, on the Park Loop Road the surf crashes into rock clefts, and in the harbour at Southwest Harbor it smells of diesel and lobster bait. Further east the coast becomes emptier: Schoodic Point with its granite slabs, blueberry fields, small fishing villages, the Bold Coast Trail over cliffs, until the red-and-white striped tip of West Quoddy Head Light appears. From the sliding door you watch the tides come and go; in the Bay of Fundy the tidal range is more than five metres. The route is short in kilometres but slow, and in the high season campsites and parking spaces are scarce.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Ellsworth to Bar Harbor and Park Loop Road (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Ellsworth via ME-3 south onto Mount Desert Island, past Trenton and over the bridge. Two to four lanes, speeds 35–50 mph, dense traffic in summer, especially in the centre of Bar Harbor. Then on the Park Loop Road in Acadia National Park, with one-way sections and lay-bys; the road is not designed for very long or tall vehicles, so check restrictions and closures on the NPS site. Pure driving time is about 1 hour; with the loop, a full day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Cadillac Mountain: at about 1,530 ft (466 m) the highest point on the US Atlantic coast; from October to March the sun reaches the land here among the first. In the high season a Vehicle Reservation System (Recreation.gov) applies for access to the summit road; check dates, fees and the vehicle length limit at nps.gov before arrival. Alternatively on foot via the North Ridge Trail.
- Sand Beach and Thunder Hole on the Park Loop Road: a small sandy beach between granite rocks and a rock cleft into which waves boom at high tide; parking spaces are scarce and fill up early, and the water is very cold even in summer.
- Bar Harbor and Bar Island: the village has shops and restaurants at the harbour; at low tide a sandbar leads to Bar Island, and the return must be made before the tide comes in, so check the tide table.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Blackwoods Campground in Acadia National Park: forest on the south-east coast, sites for tents and motorhomes without hook-ups, sanitary facilities; check vehicle lengths, season and reservations on Recreation.gov. Lamoine State Park near Ellsworth offers a campground on Frenchman Bay with sanitary facilities; check length limits before booking. Reservations, as at all parks, several months ahead, booked out in summer and at leaf-colour time.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping on the island is not allowed: the national park and the municipalities prohibit overnighting in car parks, at viewpoints and on roads, and patrols check at night. When sites are booked out, fall back on private RV parks in Ellsworth, Trenton or Bar Harbor; there is no legal free-camping alternative.
- Insider tip for campers
- Acadia admission (park pass) is valid for the Park Loop Road and all areas; higher amounts may apply in 2026 for visitors without US residence, so check current amounts at nps.gov. The free Island Explorer shuttle (summer service, timetable according to the operator) links Bar Harbor with the main points, so the motorhome stays on the site. Visit summits and beaches early in the morning; fog can shroud Cadillac.
2Stage 2: Bar Harbor to Southwest Harbor and Bass Harbor (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Bar Harbor on the Park Loop Road to Jordan Pond, then via ME-3 and ME-102 around Somes Sound to the ‘quiet side’ of the island at Southwest Harbor and Bass Harbor. Two-lane, speeds 35–45 mph, winding, stop-and-go in the villages in summer. Pure driving time is just under 1 hour; with hikes, a full day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Jordan Pond: clear lake with a view of the Bubbles; the level loop trail runs about 3.3 miles around the lake, and the Jordan Pond House is known for its popovers. Parking spaces fill up quickly, so check opening times and reservations with the house.
- Bass Harbor Head Light: lighthouse on a cliff at the southern tip, photographable from the path on the rocks; the car park is small and unsuitable for large vehicles, so it is better to come by shuttle or car. The tower itself is operated by the Coast Guard and cannot be entered.
- Wonderland and Ship Harbor Trail: short, level trails through spruce forest to a rocky coast and tide pools; at low tide you can watch starfish and crabs, so heed the tide table.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Seawall Campground near Southwest Harbor in Acadia National Park: quiet side of the island, sites by the forest and near the coast, sanitary facilities; check length limits, hook-ups and season at nps.gov and Recreation.gov. Blackwoods Campground (see stage 1) lies a little further north. Both sites are booked out early in summer and autumn, so book several months ahead.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping on the island; overnighting is prohibited in the car parks at lighthouses and viewpoints. If you are left without a site, fall back on private RV parks on the mainland.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel and buy supplies in Southwest Harbor; shops on the island are dearer than in Ellsworth. Fresh fish is available right at the harbour from the lobster fisherman. The road around Somes Sound is winding with lay-bys, so keep an eye on your vehicle length; always carry the tide table for hikes on the coast.
3Stage 3: Southwest Harbor to Schoodic (Winter Harbor) (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- From Southwest Harbor back via ME-3 and the bridge to Ellsworth, then on US-1 and ME-186 via Gouldsboro to Winter Harbor on the Schoodic Peninsula. Two-lane, speeds 35–55 mph, hilly and winding between Ellsworth and Gouldsboro, hardly any traffic. Pure driving time is just under 2 hours. The Schoodic Loop Road is partly one-way.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Schoodic Point: granite slabs and waves at the southern tip of the Schoodic Peninsula, with a wide view of Mount Desert Island; the Schoodic Loop Road runs along the shore. The car park is small, so check opening times at nps.gov.
- Schoodic Education and Research Center: former naval station in the park with visitor information; check opening times with the operator.
- Winter Harbor and the lobster harbours: small fishing villages with shops and stands; lobster and mussels are available right on the harbour pier.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Schoodic Woods Campground in Acadia National Park on the Schoodic Peninsula: quiet site in the forest, sites for tents and motorhomes, some with electricity; check length limits, hook-ups and season at nps.gov and Recreation.gov. Reservations through Recreation.gov, booked out early in summer and autumn.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping on the peninsula; car parks at Schoodic Point and in the village are for day visitors only. Alternatively private RV parks near Winter Harbor and Gouldsboro.
- Insider tip for campers
- On the Schoodic Loop Road one-way traffic applies in parts; check vehicle length and height beforehand at nps.gov. Bicycle hire at the campground is a good alternative to the car. Fill up with fuel and buy supplies in Ellsworth before moving on.
4Stage 4: Schoodic (Winter Harbor) to Machias (approx. 100 km)
- The drive
- From the Schoodic Peninsula back onto US-1 east via Milbridge, Columbia Falls and Jonesboro to Machias. Two-lane, speeds 45–55 mph, long forest stretches with blueberry fields, little traffic, mobile reception partly patchy. Pure driving time is about 2 hours. In Milbridge and Machias there are petrol stations and shops, with little in between.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Blueberry fields near Columbia Falls and Cherryfield: Maine is the main producer of wild blueberries; in August the fields are red and blue, and farm shops sell fresh fruit.
- Jasper Beach in Machiasport: beach of round, polished stones that are moved by the waves and roll in the surf; very tide-dependent, so approach the shore only with caution.
- Machias: small village on the river with shops and cafés; from Cutler, boat trips start in season to Machias Seal Island, where puffins breed – landings are limited and must be booked early, so ask operators and times directly.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: There are only a few public sites on this stretch; the nearest state campground is Cobscook Bay State Park near Dennysville (about 55 km east, see stage 5). In Machias and Milbridge, private RV parks offer sites with electricity; check vehicle lengths and season directly beforehand. Lamoine State Park (stage 1) lies to the west near Ellsworth.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping in the car parks of beaches, viewpoints and villages; the coastal municipalities prohibit overnighting in vehicles, and on private land only with the owner’s permission. If you are left without a site, ask the operators of farms or RV parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- Before Machias there are only a few petrol stations; fill up in Milbridge or Ellsworth. Ticks are widespread in Maine, so avoid trails through tall grass and check yourself after every hike. Fog on the coast can hang until noon even in summer, and visibility is then severely restricted.
5Stage 5: Machias to West Quoddy Head (Lubec) (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- From Machias on US-1 east, at Whiting on ME-189 to Lubec and on to Quoddy Head Road; a detour to Cutler leads to the coast via ME-191. Two-lane, speeds 35–55 mph, winding and little travelled, wildlife crossings at dusk. Pure driving time is about 2 hours. In Lubec and Whiting there are petrol stations and small shops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- West Quoddy Head Light in Quoddy Head State Park: the red-and-white striped lighthouse stands at the easternmost point of the contiguous USA; a loop trail runs along the cliffs, and the visitor centre has a small exhibition. Check opening times with the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands.
- Bold Coast Trail near Cutler: coastal hiking trail on cliffs with a view of the Bay of Fundy, demanding and in places wet; there are basic tent sites along the trail, and the access is suitable only for small vehicles. Check rules and condition with the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands.
- Reversing Falls near Pembroke and the tidal landscape of Cobscook Bay: at high and low tide the water streams through narrow passages; the tide table shows the best times.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Cobscook Bay State Park near Dennysville: sites on the shore of Cobscook Bay with toilets and showers, some sites for larger vehicles; check length limits, electricity and season with the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands. Reservations through the Bureau’s portal, booked out early in summer. In Lubec, private RV parks offer alternatives.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping at the lighthouse, at viewpoints and in villages; sleeping in a vehicle is prohibited on public land, and the municipalities patrol at night. The basic tent sites on the Bold Coast Trail can be reached only on foot.
- Insider tip for campers
- The bridge from Lubec to Campobello Island (Canada) leads to the Roosevelt Campobello International Park; check your passport and entry requirements beforehand, as the return requires a border check. Fill up with fuel and buy supplies in Lubec. The tides in the Bay of Fundy have a range of more than five metres: take beach walks and tidal crossings only by the table.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Sleeping in a vehicle outside designated sites is largely prohibited in Maine in car parks at beaches, lighthouses and viewpoints and by the roadside; Acadia National Park and the municipalities patrol at night. Fines are possible.
- Dispersed camping practically does not exist on the Down East coast: the coast is largely private land or park; camping on Public Reserved Lands is possible only at designated spots, mostly unsuitable for motorhomes. On private land only with the owner’s permission.
- Rest areas on the motorways usually allow only time-limited parking; camping is not allowed there. Supermarket car parks vary, so ask in the store.
- Firewood: Maine regulates the transport of firewood because of pests; buy wood at the campground or obtain it heat-treated and labelled, and heed the rules of the Maine Forest Service.
- Wildlife: moose occur in Maine, on the roads especially at dusk; black bears are rare. Ticks (Lyme disease) are widespread in Maine, so plan on repellent and checking yourself.
- Useful apps and sites: Recreation.gov (Acadia sites), maine.gov (Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands), nps.gov/acad, iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations are available in individual State Parks and private RV parks according to the operator, often for campers only; on Mount Desert Island they are limited, so check the status beforehand. sanidumps.com gives an overview.
- Tap water in Maine is drinkable; fresh-water points at campgrounds according to the operator. Filter or boil stream water before use.
- Never discharge grey water onto the ground or into streams; empty chemical toilets only at dump stations.
- Propane at petrol stations and from dealers in Ellsworth, Bar Harbor and Machias. European gas cylinders need adapters and usually are not refilled; rental motorhomes have permanently fitted US tanks.
- Fuel and shopping: supermarkets in Ellsworth, Bar Harbor and Machias; on the island and in the east prices are higher and shops small. Fill up completely in Ellsworth or Milbridge.
- Electricity: sites with hook-ups offer 30 and 50 A (120 V); many sites in Acadia National Park and in the State Parks have no hook-ups at the site.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in mph: interstates 65–75, US-1 and state highways mostly 45–55, towns 25–35, Park Loop Road 35–45. Using a mobile phone while driving is allowed in Maine only hands-free; open alcohol containers in the vehicle are prohibited.
- Tolls: the Maine Turnpike is a toll road (E-ZPass or payment by licence plate); the route itself needs no toll roads. Rental companies often charge service fees.
- Admission and fees: Acadia National Park charges an entrance fee (vehicle pass); for visitors without US residence higher amounts partly apply, so check current amounts at nps.gov. A Vehicle Reservation System (Recreation.gov) applies at times for the Cadillac Mountain summit road; check beforehand at nps.gov/acad whether and in what period it applies in 2026.
- Dimensions: legal maximum height in most states is 13 ft 6 in (4.11 m); on parts of the Park Loop Road and the summit road, length restrictions apply for vehicles, so check current details at nps.gov. Check the length limits of sites when booking.
- Reservations: sites in Acadia National Park through Recreation.gov, State Park sites through the portal of the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands; summer and autumn are booked out early, so allow several months’ lead time.
- Weather and season: July to September is the high season; fog on the coast, in autumn leaf colour from the end of September, in winter many sites and roads in the park are closed. Summer temperatures are 15–25 °C, cool at night.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception patchy on the coast. Never underestimate surf and tides: waves at Thunder Hole and on the rocks can sweep visitors away, so heed the barriers.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Warm layers, windproof jacket and rain jacket: on the coast the temperature falls to 10–12 °C in the evening even in summer, and fog is frequent.
- Tide table (app or paper): Bar Island, tide pools and Reversing Falls are dangerous without knowledge of the tides.
- Binoculars for seabirds, puffins, seals and the sunrise from Cadillac Mountain.
- Tick protection (repellent, tick tweezers) for hikes in spruce forest and tall grass.
- Bicycles or a folding bike: on Mount Desert Island the carriage roads are built for cyclists, and the motorhome stays on the site.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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