In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the cherry country of Flathead Lake over the Continental Divide at Logan Pass to the prairie lakes of Two Medicine: a loop through the crown jewel of Montana, where you keep bear spray and coffee within reach at the same time each morning.
The spirit of the route
Flathead Lake lies under the haze like sheet metal in the morning, roadside stands along the shore are piled with cherries in summer, and beyond Kalispell the road climbs into a forest that smells of cedar and resin. In Glacier National Park the Going-to-the-Sun Road follows Lake McDonald, climbs in switchbacks up the Garden Wall and cuts through alpine meadows at Logan Pass, where mountain goats stroll across the path as casually as chickens in a village. From the sliding door you can see glacier remnants and waterfalls; on the east side the land suddenly turns wide, windy and treeless. Many Glacier is considered by many to be the park’s most beautiful valley, while Two Medicine is quieter. The route demands planning: vehicle lengths on the Sun Road, reservations, weather at the pass, bear rules. Take them seriously and you get Montana at its most concentrated.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Polson to Kalispell (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- From Polson at the southern end of Flathead Lake, take US-93 north along the west shore: two lanes, mostly 65–70 mph, with roadworks in places and heavy weekend traffic in summer. Apart from a few access points the lakeshore is private; views are available from pull-outs and in the state park sections. Fruit stands open at Lakeside and Polson from July to August, and cherries ripen from about mid-July to mid-August. Pure driving time is around 1 hour 15 minutes; with stops and a swim, allow half a day to a full day. Fuel stations in Polson, Lakeside, Somers and Kalispell.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Flathead Lake: the largest freshwater lake west of the Mississippi; the state park sections (Big Arm, West Shore, Wayfarers) have beach access, while Wild Horse Island can only be reached by boat. The water stays cold well into summer.
- Lakeside: small town on the west shore with shops and provisions, a good stop for shopping before the park. Roadside stands sell local cherries and berries (season and opening times vary).
- Kalispell: shopping town and the last major place to stock up before the park; supermarkets, propane, laundromats and workshops are easiest to reach here.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Big Arm State Park on the west shore of Flathead Lake: campground right on the water; check hookups, length limits and reservations with Montana State Parks. Alternatively Wayfarers State Park (Bigfork, east shore) or West Shore State Park. For the start of the national park leg, a private RV park in Kalispell with hookups is a good option if you need laundry and waste disposal.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Flathead Lake, overnighting on the lakeshore and in pull-outs is unwelcome and is patrolled. Dispersed camping is widespread in Flathead National Forest, usually with a maximum stay of 14–16 days in one place; check the rules with the Ranger District or on the map on the Forest Service website. On Flathead Indian Reservation land (Polson and the west shore), access and overnighting on tribal land are permitted only with permission or a permit.
- Insider tip for campers
- If you are travelling in cherry season, buy at the stand on the spot and early in the morning, before the stock sells out. Take care of water and waste disposal before the park: many campgrounds inside the park have no dump station, and waiting times at the few facilities on the edge can be long in high summer.
2Stage 2: Kalispell to West Glacier (Apgar) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- On US-2 north-east to Columbia Falls and on to West Glacier: wide, well-built road, driving time about 45 minutes. According to the NPS, no vehicle reservations are needed to enter the park in 2026; at Logan Pass, however, a shuttle with a ticket and a parking limit of three hours apply (from 1 July). The rules have changed several times in recent years, so check nps.gov/glac before your trip. Entry: for visitors without US residence, higher fees or surcharges sometimes apply in heavily visited parks; check current amounts on nps.gov.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Apgar Village and Lake McDonald: the lake is about 16 km long, the coloured pebbles on the shore are photogenic, and the water itself is ice-cold. Apgar has shops, a visitor centre and boat rental.
- Trail of the Cedars: short, accessible loop through cedar and hemlock forest near Avalanche Campground, plus a detour to Avalanche Lake (a hike with some elevation gain; take bear spray).
- Lake McDonald Lodge: historic lodge from 1913 on the east shore; allow time for the car park only; the boat tours and the lakeside promenade are worthwhile even without an overnight stay.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Apgar Campground at the west end of Lake McDonald: one of the largest campgrounds in the park, without hookups, with taps and toilets and some sites for larger vehicles; reserve via Recreation.gov and check the length limit and sites for motorhomes beforehand. Fish Creek Campground on the west shore of the lake: also reserved via Recreation.gov, very popular. Sprague Creek on the east shore is intended for smaller vehicles; the length limit is strictly enforced.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Inside the park, overnighting outside designated campgrounds is prohibited; backcountry trips require a permit. Before the entrance there are options for dispersed camping in Flathead National Forest, for example on forest roads in the Hungry Horse area; some access roads are narrow and unsuitable for large vehicles.
- Insider tip for campers
- Arrive early in the day if you need parking at Lake McDonald or the Trail of the Cedars: from late morning the car parks are full in summer. In the early morning the light on the mountains and the lake is also favourable for photos.
3Stage 3: West Glacier to St. Mary (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- Going-to-the-Sun Road: 50 miles (about 80 km) from West Glacier to the St. Mary Visitor Center, two lanes, narrow, with hairpin bends, retaining walls without guardrails and tunnels. Vehicles and combinations over 21 ft (6.4 m) in length or 8 ft (2.4 m) in width including mirrors may not travel between Avalanche Creek and Rising Sun; at heights over 10 ft (3 m) it can be tight under rock overhangs west of Logan Pass. After snow clearing the road is usually fully open only in June or July and closes in autumn with snow; check current opening and rules on nps.gov/glac. If you have a larger vehicle, take US-2 and Marias Pass to East Glacier instead and then head north to St. Mary (about 200 km, a good 3 hours).
- Highlights & must-sees
- Logan Pass at 2,026 m: Continental Divide, visitor centre and the Hidden Lake hike; mountain goats and marmots are common. The car park is usually full from late morning, parking is time-limited in 2026 (three hours) and a shuttle with a ticket can make getting there easier; check the current status beforehand.
- Weeping Wall and Garden Wall: waterfalls beside the road; during snowmelt water falls onto the carriageway; a viewpoint at the Big Bend shows the switchbacks from above.
- Wild Goose Island Overlook on St. Mary Lake: an island in the lake, a classic photo subject especially early in the morning with mist or in the evening with alpenglow.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: St. Mary Campground on the eastern edge of the park: one of the larger campgrounds, with some sites for larger vehicles, water and toilets, no hookups; reservations via Recreation.gov (check the length limit). Rising Sun Campground on St. Mary Lake is smaller and better suited to small vehicles. If you may not drive the Sun Road because of your vehicle’s dimensions, stay on the west side at Apgar or switch to the east side via US-2.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the park, camping is permitted only in designated campgrounds. Outside, on the east side, lie areas of the Blackfeet Indian Reservation: overnighting there is allowed only at approved sites with permission; ask about the rules at the Blackfeet Tribal Business Council or at the campgrounds themselves.
- Insider tip for campers
- Because of construction and weather the road is often reduced to one lane with traffic control; closures, avalanches and rockfall can shift schedules. Start early in the day, have a full tank (there is no fuel station on the Sun Road; fill up in West Glacier or Columbia Falls, or in St. Mary or Babb) and carry bear spray within reach.
4Stage 4: St. Mary to Many Glacier (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- On US-89 north to Babb, then west onto the Many Glacier Road: paved road, with poor surface and roadworks on some sections; in summer many visitors and sometimes traffic control. Driving time about 1 hour. Construction and weather can affect access; check the road condition and campground status on nps.gov/glac before driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Many Glacier Valley: Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine with Grinnell Glacier in the background; many hikes start at the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn grounds or at the Many Glacier Hotel.
- Grinnell Glacier Trail: long day hike with a large elevation gain; as an alternative, short walks at Swiftcurrent Lake or the boat trip to the start of the trail.
- Wildlife: bighorn sheep, mountain goats, grizzlies and black bears are common in the valley; keep your distance (bears at least 100 yards, 91 m) and do not leave bear spray in the car.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Many Glacier Campground (NPS): popular campground, tent sites and sites for smaller motorhomes, no hookups; check the length limit and book via Recreation.gov, often full months in advance. Alternatives: St. Mary Campground or Rising Sun. In earlier years the campground was at times restricted because of bear-risk locations; follow the notices.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No free camping in the park. On the east side there are only a few legal options outside the park; the areas to the left and right of the road between Babb and Many Glacier belong partly to the Blackfeet Reservation or to private land.
- Insider tip for campers
- In the Many Glacier Valley strict bear discipline applies: never leave food and odours in a tent or an open vehicle, and use bear boxes for food where available. Keep a safe distance and form groups when you hike; carry bear spray and know how it works.
5Stage 5: Many Glacier to Two Medicine (approx. 135 km)
- The drive
- Back to Babb, then south on US-89 through Browning and on to East Glacier Park; from there take the Two Medicine Road into the park. Open prairie with wind, wide skies and views of the Rocky Mountain Front; driving time about 2 to 2.5 hours. Fuel stations in Babb, Browning and East Glacier Park. The route passes through the Blackfeet Indian Reservation: photograph people and ceremonies only with permission.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Browning: Museum of the Plains Indian (Blackfeet culture), crafts and conversations with local people; opening times depend on the season, check before visiting.
- Two Medicine Lake: quiet lake with Sinopah Mountain, excursion boat and several hikes, including the trail to Twin Falls; much less busy than Many Glacier.
- East Glacier Park Village: historic station and lodge on the Empire Builder line, shops and restaurants; the village lies at the park’s south-east entrance.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Two Medicine Campground in the national park: sites with water and toilets, basic facilities, motorhomes only up to the length given in the reservation system; check Recreation.gov and the status of the season and the road beforehand. In the village of East Glacier Park there are private campgrounds (sites with hookups) if you need electricity and waste disposal.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the Blackfeet Reservation, overnighting outside designated campgrounds is allowed only with permission. In the adjacent areas of Lewis and Clark National Forest south of Marias Pass there is dispersed camping; check the rules and road condition with the Forest Service.
- Insider tip for campers
- On the east side the wind is often strong, and the road to Two Medicine Lake is narrow and partly in poor condition: drive calmly. If you come in the shoulder season, expect closed campgrounds and road closures in cold weather.
6Stage 6: East Glacier Park to Kalispell (approx. 150 km)
- The drive
- On US-2 over Marias Pass (about 1,590 m, the lowest crossing of the Rocky Mountains in Montana) along the southern edge of the park, then rivers, forest and mountains as far as West Glacier and Kalispell. Two lanes, well built, driving time about 2.5 hours. For vehicles over 21 ft this is the recommended east–west connection. Fuel stations in East Glacier, Essex (seasonal) and West Glacier; mobile coverage is patchy in places.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Marias Pass: memorial to the crossing of the Continental Divide, with a monument to Theodore Roosevelt at the pass and a monument to John F. Stevens, the railway engineer who found the pass.
- Walton and Essex: railway villages on the Middle Fork of the Flathead River where the Empire Builder stops; the Goat Lick Overlook (mountain goats on the mineral cliffs, seasonal) is right on US-2.
- Hungry Horse Reservoir: dam and lake in Flathead National Forest, only a few kilometres from Columbia Falls; there are campgrounds and boats along the road.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Several smaller Forest Service campgrounds (Flathead National Forest) along the Middle Fork of the Flathead River beside US-2: basic facilities; check lengths and status on Recreation.gov or with the Forest Service. In Kalispell a private RV park for water and waste disposal, laundry and shopping.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Flathead National Forest dispersed camping is permitted on many forest roads, usually for up to 14–16 days; observe the rules on fires and distance from water, and in wildfire season fire bans are frequent.
- Insider tip for campers
- If you may not drive the Sun Road, plan this variant as a stage of its own: Marias Pass is well built throughout, but receives a lot of snow in winter. Take care of waste disposal and water in Kalispell.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In Glacier National Park, overnighting outside designated campgrounds is prohibited; backcountry overnight stays require a permit, and frontcountry campgrounds are reserved via Recreation.gov. Parking overnight at viewpoints and in pull-outs is not permitted; rangers patrol.
- Dispersed camping is widespread in Flathead National Forest, Lewis and Clark National Forest and on BLM land, usually with a maximum stay of 14–16 days in one place. The maps and rules of the relevant Ranger District apply; observe wildfire season with fire bans and road closures.
- On the Flathead and Blackfeet Indian Reservations, access and overnighting on tribal land are allowed only at approved sites or with a permit; ask about the rules at the tribal office or at the campground, and do not photograph ceremonies and people without permission.
- Bear safety: carry bear spray (not allowed on aircraft; buy or rent it locally), store food, rubbish and anything with an odour out of reach at night and during the day, never in the tent. Hike in groups, make noise and heed rangers’ advice.
- Walmart and truck-stop car parks in Kalispell and Columbia Falls can often be used only with permission or not at all; if in doubt, ask in the store, otherwise switch to a campground.
- Useful apps and sites: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, Recreation.gov (NPS and Forest Service), Montana State Parks, nps.gov/glac for road and campground status.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Hookups and dump stations: inside the national park there are only a few dump stations (in Apgar or at St. Mary Campground depending on the year; check the current status); fresh water from taps at the campgrounds. Be prepared to empty your tanks and refuel before the park in Kalispell or Columbia Falls.
- Drinking water at NPS campgrounds comes from taps; filter or boil stream water before drinking. The same applies to water sources in Forest Service areas: filter only.
- Propane in Kalispell, Columbia Falls and Polson at filling stations and dealers; European cylinders need adapters, and rental vehicles have permanently installed US tanks.
- Fuel: there are hardly any fuel stations in the park, so fill up in Columbia Falls, West Glacier, St. Mary or Browning. On the east side prices are higher and opening times seasonal.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Kalispell, Whitefish and Polson; inside the park only small shops with a limited range. Fill your cool box in Kalispell.
- Electricity: campgrounds in the park have no hookups; private RV parks in Kalispell and East Glacier Park offer 30/50 A. Generators in the park only at set times, observe the rules.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in mph: highways mostly 65–70, in built-up areas 25–35, in the national park usually 25–45 mph; watch for wildlife and cyclists on the Sun Road.
- Vehicle dimensions on the Going-to-the-Sun Road between Avalanche Creek and Rising Sun: maximum 21 ft in length and 8 ft in width including mirrors; heights over 10 ft are critical west of Logan Pass; larger vehicles take the bypass via US-2.
- Entry and reservations: national park pass or America the Beautiful Pass; for visitors without US residence higher fees or surcharges may apply, check current amounts on nps.gov. In 2026 no vehicle reservations are needed to enter (Logan Pass: shuttle with ticket, three hours’ parking); rules change, so check nps.gov/glac before your trip.
- Season: the Sun Road is usually fully open from June or July to October; snowfall in autumn can lead to closures. Wildfire season July to September with smoke and road closures.
- Traffic law for travellers: right turn on red after stopping, unless a sign prohibits it; mobile phone use while driving is not regulated statewide in Montana, so for safety use hands-free only; open alcohol containers in the passenger compartment are prohibited; seat belts for all occupants.
- Emergency: 911; there is no mobile coverage in large parts of the park; heed bear and weather notices at the visitor centres, snow and thunderstorms can occur at Logan Pass at any time.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Bear spray (buy or rent locally) with a holster on your belt – not in the rucksack, not in the car.
- Warm layers and a rain jacket: at Logan Pass the temperature is often only a few degrees even in July.
- Binoculars and a telephoto lens for mountain goats, bighorn sheep and bears from a safe distance.
- Water filter and canisters: many campgrounds have only a single tap, and in backcountry areas only stream water.
- Offline maps and printed reservations: on large stretches inside the park there is no mobile coverage.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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