In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Red Lodge in switchbacks to 3,337 metres, through the tundra of the Beartooth Mountains, via Cooke City and the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway to Cody.
The spirit of the route
The road out of Red Lodge starts harmlessly, with poplars and horse paddocks in the Rock Creek Valley, and suddenly the valley floor drops away while the hairpins wind up the wall. After the first bends the air gets thin, the spruces are left behind, and at Beartooth Pass at 3,337 metres the tundra lies like a carpet under the sky, with snowfields into summer and lakes that glow steel blue in the light. Marmots whistle, and from the window you see peaks to the horizon. Beyond Cooke City the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway strikes a different note: red gorges, Sunlight Gorge and the high plain of the Absaroka Range, then the long descent to Cody, into Buffalo Bill country. The route is short but demanding: it needs good weather, careful driving and early hours.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Billings to Red Lodge (approx. 100 km)
- The drive
- From Billings on I-90 to Laurel and on along US 212 south to Red Lodge. The road is two-lane, flat to hilly, through pasture and fields, with wind from the mountains. Driving time about 1.5 hours. The Beartooth Highway starts in Red Lodge. The rest of the day is for the town, supermarkets and preparing for the pass.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Red Lodge: a Western town with a historic main street, cafés, a small museum and trails; the town lies at the foot of the Beartooth Mountains.
- Rock Creek: a river with trails and fishing spots, viewpoints along the road to the west.
- Rock Creek Valley and Greenough Lake: quiet side valleys, opportunities for walks and photo stops.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Custer Gallatin National Forest: Parkside Campground and Greenough Lake Campground south of Red Lodge in the Rock Creek Valley, simple campgrounds with toilets and in part water; check opening, length and reservations on Recreation.gov. In Red Lodge there are also private RV parks with hookups.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Custer Gallatin National Forest, dispersed camping is allowed in many places, usually with a time limit (often 14 to 16 days); observe distance from water and roads and fire bans. In Red Lodge itself, overnighting on streets and in car parks is prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- Before the pass, fill up with fuel and water in Red Lodge and buy food for 2 to 3 days; there is hardly any supply between Red Lodge and Cooke City. Bear rules in Custer Gallatin: secure food and rubbish at night.
2Stage 2: Red Lodge to Cooke City (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- On US 212, the Beartooth Highway, from Red Lodge over switchbacks and hairpins to Beartooth Pass (10,947 ft / 3,337 m), then through Wyoming and back to Montana as far as Cooke City. The road is about 68 miles long, two-lane, with tight hairpins, climbs and in places no guard rails; wind gusts and fog come quickly. It is open in summer only, according to the Yellowstone park authority from about the Friday of Memorial Day weekend until mid-October; weather can close it at short notice. Driving time about 2.5 to 3 hours; with stops, a whole day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Beartooth Pass and Top of the World: a viewpoint on a high plain with tundra, lakes and glacier remnants; cool and windy even in summer.
- Beartooth Lake and Island Lake: lakes at the foot of the rocks with trails and quiet lakeside spots, photo stops in morning light.
- Rock Creek Vista Point and hairpins above Red Lodge: viewpoints over gorges and forest, with golden aspens in autumn.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Shoshone National Forest (Wyoming side): Beartooth Lake Campground, Island Lake Campground, Fox Creek Campground and Crazy Creek Campground lie along the road; mostly simple campgrounds with toilets, water only in part, open in summer only; check length and reservations on Recreation.gov. In Cooke City there are campgrounds such as Colter Campground (Custer Gallatin NF); check the status.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Shoshone and Custer Gallatin National Forest, dispersed camping is allowed in many places, mostly for 14 to 16 days; observe lakeshores and closed areas, read the bear rules. On the pass road, overnight parking at viewpoints is prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- Check brakes and coolant; use a low gear downhill. Motorhomes should start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms. Cooke City is small, and filling stations and food are expensive; shop beforehand.
3Stage 3: Cooke City to Clark (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- From Cooke City east back on US 212 to the junction for the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway (WY 296), about 21 km south-east of Cooke City, then via Sunlight Basin and Dead Indian Pass (2,460 m) to WY 120 about 17 miles north of Cody, near Clark. The byway is paved, has steep sections, hairpins and tight bends, especially at Dead Indian Hill; caution is needed for long motorhomes and combinations. According to the Yellowstone website, the section near Cooke City is closed to wheeled vehicles in winter and in summer is mostly open from mid-May to early November. Driving time about 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Dead Indian Pass: a viewpoint with views of Sunlight Basin and the Absaroka Range; aspens and wildlife in autumn.
- Sunlight Gorge and Sunlight Bridge: a deep gorge with a bridge, short trails to viewpoints; the bridge is among the highest road bridges in Wyoming.
- Clarks Fork Canyon: a narrow rock gorge with a river, trails and photo stops.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Shoshone National Forest: Hunter Peak Campground and Dead Indian Campground along the road; simple campgrounds with toilets and in part water; check length, opening and reservations. In Clark there are small private pitches; ask about selection on the spot.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Forest Service land in the Absaroka Range, dispersed camping is allowed in some places; access roads are in places steep and gravelly. Observe fire bans and bear rules.
- Insider tip for campers
- If you have a long or heavy vehicle, check the byway beforehand with WYDOT and at the visitor center and, if necessary, choose the alternative back via Red Lodge to Billings. In Clark there is only little supply, so fill up with fuel beforehand.
4Stage 4: Clark to Cody (approx. 105 km)
- The drive
- From Clark on WY 120 south to Cody, through farmland and dry hills, with wind and wide views. The road is two-lane and mostly straight, speed 55 to 65 mph. Driving time about 45 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Heart Mountain: a distinctive mountain near Cody; on the site lies the Heart Mountain Interpretive Center on the Second World War internment camp.
- Buffalo Bill Center of the West in Cody: a museum complex on Western history and natural history; check opening times in advance.
- Buffalo Bill Reservoir and Dam: a reservoir with viewpoints and gorges west of Cody, suitable for short outings.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Buffalo Bill State Park (Wyoming State Parks): campgrounds such as North Fork and North Shore Bay on the reservoir west of Cody, with electricity at some sites, water and a dump station; reservations via Wyoming State Parks, check length in advance. In Cody there are also private RV parks.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Shoshone National Forest west of Cody, dispersed camping is allowed in some places; observe signage and fire bans. In Cody itself, overnighting on streets and in car parks is prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- In summer the Nite Rodeo takes place daily in Cody; check dates beforehand. Cody has supermarkets, filling stations, dump stations and launderettes, a good place to restock.
5Stage 5: Cody to Billings (approx. 230 km)
- The drive
- From Cody via US 14A and Powell to Lovell, on along US 310 north via Belfry and Bridger to Laurel and on I-90 to Billings. A flat to hilly route through the Bighorn Basin and prairie, speed 55 to 70 mph, with strong wind in late summer. Driving time about 3.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area near Lovell: a deep gorge and reservoir, viewpoints and trails; access from Lovell.
- Pryor Mountains and wild horses: wild mustangs live in the Pryor Mountains; access on gravel roads, check the status in advance.
- Laurel and Yellowstone River: viewpoints and small parks on the river.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area offers simple campgrounds, such as Horseshoe Bend and Afterbay; check opening, length and facilities on nps.gov. In Billings there are private RV parks with hookups.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On BLM land in the Pryor Mountains, dispersed camping is allowed in some places; access roads are in places unpaved. Prohibited in cities.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel, empty your tanks and fill with water in Billings. If you want to go on to Yellowstone, you reach the north-east entrance via Cooke City; check the road status with the park authority.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Dispersed camping in Montana and Wyoming is mostly allowed on National Forest and BLM land for 14 to 16 days at the same spot, but not in national parks and towns. In areas with many bears, rules on securing food apply.
- Fire bans often apply to entire forest districts in late summer; campfires only in fire rings and at a permitted level. Check the current rules with the Forest Service.
- Apps: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt; reservations via Recreation.gov and the state park websites. Road status at Montana 511 and WYDOT.
- Wildlife: grizzlies and black bears in the Beartooth and Absaroka area; carry bear spray, and secure food and rubbish at night in bear-proof containers or in the vehicle. Marmots, moose and elk.
- Weather: it can snow on the pass even in summer; the road and trail are closed at short notice in a storm.
Waste disposal & supplies
- There are dump stations in Red Lodge, Cody, Lovell and Billings and on some campgrounds; check location and fee beforehand.
- Drinking water: tap water is drinkable; along the highway only a few taps, so fill canisters.
- Empty grey water and chemical toilets only at disposal points.
- Propane in Red Lodge, Cody and Billings; European bottles need adapters.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Red Lodge, Cody and Billings; in Cooke City and Clark small shops with high prices.
- Electricity: private and state park campgrounds offer 30 and 50 A; Forest Service campgrounds mostly do not.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in mph: highways mostly 55 to 70, on the Beartooth Highway lower values with warning signs; interstates in Montana up to 80.
- According to the Yellowstone website, the Beartooth Highway is open in summer only, from about the end of May to mid-October; weather can close the road at any time; check the status with Montana DOT.
- Tolls: none on the route.
- Dimensions: Montana and Wyoming allow up to 14 ft in height; check campground lengths in the range of 30 to 40 ft before booking.
- Reservations: Forest Service campgrounds via Recreation.gov, state park campgrounds via Wyoming State Parks.
- Weather: snow and fog on the pass, afternoon thunderstorms, strong wind.
- Traffic law: a right turn on red after stopping is allowed where not prohibited; open alcohol containers prohibited; seat belt and child seat rules apply.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Warm layers, a hat and gloves: at 3,337 m temperatures are often below 10 °C in summer, and lower in autumn.
- Bear spray and bear-proof containers: grizzlies live in the Beartooth and Absaroka area.
- Brake check: the gradients and hairpins at Beartooth Pass and Dead Indian Hill put a strain on the brakes.
- Binoculars for marmots, elk and mountain goats; sun protection for the altitude.
- Offline maps and printed reservations: there is no reception on the pass and in Sunlight Basin.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
