In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 285 km from Trento via Lake Molveno and the Terme di Comano into the Val Rendena, to Madonna di Campiglio and over the Campo Carlo Magno into the Val di Sole and Val di Peio, then through the Val di Non with Castel Thun and San Romedio back to the Adige – the Brenta Dolomites, the Stelvio National Park and orchard country in a single trip.
The spirit of the route
Turn west from the Trentino Adige valley and you climb into another world: the Brenta Dolomites stand like a grey bulwark above Lake Molveno, glacier water thunders over waterfalls in the Val Genova, and in the Val di Peio a last remnant of snow still hangs on the Cevedale above the meadows. Brown bears live in the Adamello Brenta Nature Park again (reintroduced since the 1990s) – they are rarely seen, but the signs along the paths remind you who is at home here. In the villages the air smells of wood, hay and fried mushrooms, and on the high pastures cheese and polenta are served. In the evening you sit at the campsite on the lakeshore, the mountains turn pink, and from your sliding door you see only water and rock. Later, in the Val di Non, orchards lie like a sea of apples, with castles on the rocks and a pilgrimage church clinging to the gorge wall like a swallow’s nest.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Trento to Molveno (approx. 48 km)
- The drive
- From Trento on the SS43 through the Adige valley north to Mezzolombardo, then on the mountain road in hairpins up to the Paganella plateau (Fai della Paganella, Andalo) and on to Molveno on the lakeshore. Well built, but with several hairpins and a 25 to 30 minute climb from Mezzolombardo; without traffic about 1 hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Trento: Castello del Buonconsiglio, Piazza Duomo with the Neptune Fountain and MUSE, the science museum by Renzo Piano.
- Lake Molveno: a deep-blue lake beneath the Brenta Dolomites, with a lakeside promenade and boat hire.
- Andalo and Fai della Paganella: the cable car up the Paganella with a view of Lake Garda and the Brenta group.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Spiaggia Lago di Molveno lies right on the lake with electric hook-up, sanitary facilities and waste disposal; there is also the Area Sosta Lago di Molveno for motorhomes. In Fai della Paganella there is the Area Camper Orizzonti, and in Andalo several sites. The season usually runs from May to October; book in July and August.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Trentino, camping outside sites is forbidden and checked by the municipalities; a motorhome may only park and stay overnight where parking is allowed, without chairs, awning or levelling props. In Molveno the access roads to the lake are pay-and-display for motorhomes, and night-time bans apply.
- Insider tip for campers
- The centre of Trento is a ZTL with cameras; park on the edge of town or in a car park without a height limit and walk. The level of Lake Molveno fluctuates strongly with the season. For the climb to the Paganella plateau it is better to go early in the morning, because traffic backs up in Mezzolombardo in summer.
2Stage 2: Molveno to Pinzolo (Val Rendena) (approx. 58 km)
- The drive
- From Molveno on the SS421 (Strada dei Laghi di Molveno e Tenno) to San Lorenzo in Banale and down to Ponte Arche (Comano Terme), then on the SS237 del Caffaro into the Giudicarie to Tione di Trento and on along the SS239 through the Val Rendena to Pinzolo. A broad valley road, narrow higher up; the SS421 is prone to rockfall and has been closed several times in the past, so check the current status beforehand. About 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Terme di Comano: a thermal spa near Ponte Arche with soft, lightly mineralised water.
- Spiazzo Rendena: a church with frescoes, and Pinzolo with the church of San Vigilio and the 16th-century Danza Macabra fresco.
- Cascate di Nardis in Carisolo: a waterfall in a narrow gorge, a short walk from the car park.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Parco Adamello near Pinzolo/Carisolo lies on the floor of the Val Rendena close to the turn-off into the Val Genova, with electric hook-up, sanitary facilities and waste disposal; in Comano there is the Area sosta Camper Comano. Further sites lie in the Val Rendena near Pinzolo; the season is mostly summer, and winter for skiers, so check beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Val Rendena, car parks at the cable cars and walking trailheads are pay-and-display, and overnight stays are banned on most of them; the police and the municipalities check, and the fines are noticeable. You will find quiet places only on designated aree di sosta.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Val Genova is the region’s most water-rich valley: the path to the Rifugio Bedole runs past glacier waterfalls. The narrow access road is open only on a limited basis or by shuttle in summer – check the arrangements beforehand with the park administration or the municipality. The Rendena breed, an old cattle breed of the valleys, grazes on the high pastures; buy cheese (malga cheese) at the farm shop.
3Stage 3: Pinzolo to Madonna di Campiglio (approx. 18 km)
- The drive
- From Pinzolo on the SS239 in hairpins through larch forest up to Madonna di Campiglio (about 1500 m). Short but winding, with some tight bends; a quiet 30 minutes, and in winter snow chains or winter tyres.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lago Nambino: a small mountain lake in the forest, about an hour on foot from the village, with a view of the Brenta group.
- Cascate di Vallesinella: waterfalls in spruce forest on the edge of the Brenta group, a circular path from the car park.
- Cable car to Grostè: a high plateau with a panorama over the nature park; walking trails to rifugi.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Madonna di Campiglio itself has little room for motorhomes; campsites and aree di sosta lie down in the valley near Pinzolo and Carisolo, from where buses run in summer. Ask beforehand whether motorhome parking is permitted in Madonna di Campiglio and whether charges apply.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Madonna di Campiglio and at the Campo Carlo Magno, overnight stays in public car parks are prohibited; in the nature park a camping ban applies outside the sites, and the administration checks in season.
- Insider tip for campers
- In summer, access to the walkers’ car parks in Madonna di Campiglio is at times restricted or regulated by shuttle; arrive early in the morning. The Brenta Dolomites belong to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Dolomites – take good walking boots and check the weather forecast, as thunderstorms build up in the afternoon.
4Stage 4: Madonna di Campiglio to Cogolo (Val di Peio) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Madonna di Campiglio over the Campo Carlo Magno (1682 m) on the SS239 down into the Val di Sole to Dimaro, then on the SS42 to Malé and on the provincial road into the Val di Peio to Cogolo and Peio. A broad, well-built road, winding only on the pass. About 1 to 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Dimaro and Mezzana: a rafting and kayaking stretch on the Noce, a cycle path through the Val di Sole.
- Val di Peio: the village of Peio, thermal springs (Terme di Peio) and the Stelvio National Park with a view of the Cevedale (3769 m).
- Malé: the main town of the Val di Sole with the Trenino (railway Trento–Malé–Mezzana).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Cogolo lies Camping Val di Sole; further down the valley, at Fucine (Ossana), Camping Cevedale and Camping I Larici, each with electric hook-up and sanitary facilities. There are also agricampeggi and, in the Val di Sole, aree di sosta; clarify facilities and waste disposal beforehand. The season is mostly May to October; book in high summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Stelvio National Park and in the Val di Sole, camping outside the sites is not allowed; parking in public places is often limited in time or to guests at the valley stations and walkers’ car parks. Administrative fines are usual.
- Insider tip for campers
- The cable car from Peio Fonti (Doss dei Cembri) takes walkers into the high-mountain zone; go by camper only as far as Cogolo, then take a bus or shuttle. The advice about brown bears applies here too: do not leave rubbish and food outdoors, and put waste in the containers provided.
5Stage 5: Cogolo to Cles (Val di Non) (approx. 52 km)
- The drive
- From Cogolo back to Malé, then on the SS43 via Mostizzolo on the Santa Giustina reservoir to Cles in the Val di Non. Well built, without major gradients; about 1 hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lago di Santa Giustina: a reservoir with steep banks and the high arch dam, with a view from the bridge at Mostizzolo.
- Castel Thun near Vigo di Ton: the castle of the Thun family, with a museum and a panoramic view of the Val di Non.
- Lago di Tovel: a lake in the Adamello Brenta Nature Park, once coloured red by algae, with a walking path and visitor centre (approach from Cles via Tuenno).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Caldes in the Val di Sole there is the Area sosta camper Caldes; in and around Cles there are aree di sosta and small campsites, and the facilities vary – check the season and electricity/waste disposal beforehand. Lago di Tovel has no camping permission; overnight stays are banned.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The same rules apply in the Val di Non and at the reservoirs: parking yes, camping no. At Lago di Tovel the access road is often restricted or pay-and-display in high season; overnight stays are not allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Val di Non is Trentino’s largest apple-growing area (Mela Val di Non); in autumn there are farm sales and harvest festivals, in spring the blossom. The approach to Tovel is heavily used at weekends in summer – start early and use the bus shuttle if one is running.
6Stage 6: Cles to Trento (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Cles on the SS43 through the Val di Non, past the Santuario di San Romedio near Sanzeno (a detour into the gorge), then via Mezzolombardo back on the SS43 to Trento. A broad road with short passages in gorges; about 1 to 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Santuario di San Romedio near Sanzeno: a pilgrimage church on a 70 m rock with a staircase approach and an attached hermitage.
- Rio Sass canyon near Fondo: a gorge with a walkway and waterfall, open to visitors for an admission fee.
- Mezzolombardo and Mezzocorona: the wine estates of the Teroldego Rotaliano.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: On the edge of Trento lies the Area Camper di Garniga Terme on the heights above the city; there are also agricampeggi around Mezzolombardo and on the Paganella. Check facilities and opening beforehand; in late summer the sites are full at weekends.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the end of the route too: parking yes, camping no. In Trento and Mezzolombardo the access roads to the centres have ZTLs or height limits; check the multi-storey car parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- The approach to San Romedio is on a narrow little road with a car park at the end of the valley; for long motorhomes the footbridge and the last section cannot be driven. Teroldego wine estates near Mezzolombardo offer tastings – arrange dates beforehand.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law (Codice della Strada, Art. 185) distinguishes parking (“sosta”) from camping: a motorhome may stand, and also stay overnight, wherever parking is allowed, as long as it touches the ground only with its wheels – no chairs, table, awning, levelling props or grey water drained.
- The Autonomous Province of Trento and the municipalities expressly forbid camping outside sites; many municipalities issue ordinances for lakes, walkers’ car parks and cable cars. Fines are possible, and checks by the Polizia Locale and parking wardens are frequent in season.
- In the Adamello Brenta Nature Park and the Stelvio National Park (Val di Peio, Rabbi), protection rules apply: do not leave the paths, no fires, no camping; in bear country secure rubbish and food.
- Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact and CamperOnline (Italian). Aree di sosta in the valleys are not all open in winter; check beforehand.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Water supply and waste disposal is called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. In the valleys there are stations on campsites and some aree di sosta; in the high mountains they are missing, so empty your tanks before the climb at Madonna di Campiglio or Peio.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at the station; wild dumping is the main reason for new bans.
- Tap water in the municipalities is mostly drinkable; look for “acqua potabile”; use mountain streams only with a filter or after boiling.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Italy. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks can be filled at GPL petrol stations with the Italian adapter; often only the staff do the filling. Arrive with two full cylinders.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on the motorway; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on the motorway. Caravan combinations: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on the motorway. Dipped headlights are required outside built-up areas even by day.
- ZTLs (Zona a Traffico Limitato) with cameras exist in Trento and in individual towns; fines arrive by post, often months later.
- Winter: from 15 November to 15 April, winter tyres or snow chains on board are compulsory on many mountain routes; the Campo Carlo Magno and the Val Rendena are affected. Heed avalanche and snowfall warnings.
- Tolls: the A22 (Brenner motorway) is a toll road; the routes in the valleys are free. Some access roads (e.g. car parks at lakes) are charged.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, such as bicycles on a rear carrier, the red-and-white warning board (50 × 50 cm) is compulsory. Blood alcohol limit 0.5, 0.0 for novice and professional drivers; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Walking boots with ankle support and poles for the Val Genova, Vallesinella and the paths in the nature park.
- A rain jacket and hat – in the Brenta area thunderstorms build up in the afternoon, even in high summer.
- A second fresh-water canister and a reserve in the tank for stretches without a station in the high valley.
- Winter tyres or snow chains from mid-November, plus a small snow shovel and gloves.
- Sealable food containers and rubbish bags: in bear country, waste belongs in the containers – leave nothing lying outdoors.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
