In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Donostia/San Sebastián via Getaria, Zumaia and Gernika to Bilbao, then on via Vitoria-Gasteiz into Rioja Alavesa and to San Millán de la Cogolla: around 380 kilometres between cliffs, vineyards and monasteries, where city access roads and the choice of pitch shape the planning.
The spirit of the route
The Basque Country smells of salt, grill smoke and cider, Rioja of earth, oak barrels and wine – and between them lies a route that turns from coast to plateau within hours. In the morning fishing boats pass the quay walls in Getaria, above Zumaia the folded rock layers of the flysch drop vertically into the sea, and in the Urdaibai valley herons stand in the reeds. Bilbao shows titanium and steel beside working-class districts, Vitoria a medieval old town with green ring parks. Then the Sierra de Cantabria rises in front of the windscreen, and behind it begins a sea of vines: Laguardia on its hill, wine cellars beneath the lanes, adobe-red earth between the rows. From the sliding door you see waves, church towers and vine rows in turn. This route rewards short stages, patience with city access roads and one evening when the camper stays put.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Donostia/San Sebastián to Zarautz (approx. 20 km)
- The drive
- From Donostia take the toll AP-8 or the free N-634 west, via Orio to Zarautz. Mostly well built, with heavy traffic in summer and on rainy days; about 30 minutes of pure driving time. The Donostia bypass is slow at rush hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Playa de La Concha and the old town of Donostia: promenade, Monte Igueldo with its funicular and the view across the bay.
- Peine del Viento: sculpture group by Eduardo Chillida at the western end of the bay, especially impressive when the sea is rough.
- Zarautz: long sandy beach with a promenade, old town with the Palacio Narros.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Donostia, on Monte Igueldo, lies the campsite wecamp San Sebastián (formerly Camping Igueldo), about 5 kilometres from the centre and linked by city bus; check the season and the pitch availability for motorhomes with the operator in advance. In Zarautz, OpenStreetMap lists an área de autocaravanas (about 38 places) as well as Camping Talaimendi near the beach and the town centre, which is open in summer only (in 2026, according to the association, 19 June to 6 September). Book in summer and on public holidays.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Basque Country camping outside campsites and designated areas is not intended, and many coastal municipalities restrict overnighting in vehicles. Car parks at beaches and promenades are checked – do not rely on them. Night-time city traffic in Donostia is impractical for motorhomes anyway.
- Insider tip for campers
- Donostia is overcrowded in summer: leave the camper outside the city and go in by bus or train (the Euskotren suburban line reaches Zarautz and the coastal towns). Check the access restrictions (ZBE) in the city centre in advance and do not drive the camper into the old town.
2Stage 2: Zarautz to Lekeitio (via Getaria and Zumaia) (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- Take the coastal road to Getaria and on to Zumaia; beyond Zumaia follow the GI-638 via Deba, Mutriku and Ondarroa, then the BI-3438 to Lekeitio. Twisty, with short climbs and tunnels; narrow stretches in the harbour towns. About 1.5 hours without stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Getaria: fishing harbour, grilled dishes on the quay, museum of the fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga; all around grow the vines of Txakoli.
- Zumaia: flysch at the Playa de Itzurun – the folded layers of limestone and marl can be walked at low tide (check the tides in advance), plus the coastal walk towards Deba.
- Lekeitio: harbour town with a beach, the offshore island of San Nicolás and the Gothic church of Santa María.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Zumaia lies on the Basusta bidea in Zumaia, about 2 kilometres from the beach (open from mid-February to early December according to ACSI 2026). Near Lekeitio, in the municipality of Mendexa, are Camping Leagi (according to the portal, 1 March to 2 November in 2026; steep access road, check in advance for large vehicles) and the summer campsite Endai; in Lekeitio OpenStreetMap also lists a car park for motorhomes. Check facilities and opening times in advance. Full in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The coast’s geopark area and the cliffs are sensitive; overnighting in the coastal car parks is often prohibited in the towns or is checked. Legal alternatives are the campsites or the municipal pitches.
- Insider tip for campers
- The road through the harbour towns is narrow, and the car parks on the quay often have height or length limits. It is best to leave the camper on the edge of town. Do the flysch walk only as the tide is going out and keep an eye on the clock; boat trips from Zumaia are an alternative.
3Stage 3: Lekeitio to Bermeo (via Gernika and Urdaibai) (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Lekeitio take the BI-3238 (via Ispaster) inland to Gernika-Lumo, then through the Urdaibai valley to Mundaka and Bermeo. Narrow side roads alternate with wide valley stretches; about 1 to 1.5 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gernika-Lumo: Casa de Juntas with the Gernika tree, the symbol of Basque self-government; also the Peace Museum.
- Urdaibai: the estuary of the Oka, a biosphere reserve with marshes, birdwatching and circular trails.
- Mundaka and Bermeo: the surf wave at the harbour mouth of Mundaka and the fishing harbour of Bermeo.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Bermeo OpenStreetMap lists the Parking de la Pérgola for motorhomes (about 19 places); there are also campsites in the area around Urdaibai, including Arketa and Portuondo near Mundaka. Ask in advance about facilities, season and permitted length of stay; according to the operator’s website, travellers must register for the motorhome pitch.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Urdaibai is a biosphere reserve; camping is prohibited there, and coastal protection and municipal ordinances apply. At the Bermeo motorhome pitch, observe the municipality’s conditions.
- Insider tip for campers
- Access to the hermitage of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (near Bermeo) is possible on heavily visited days only with a free online reservation (high season, public holidays, individual weekends; free on other days). The official reservation calendar of the Diputación de Bizkaia shows the days affected; from October to December 2026 there are only a few. The path involves more than 200 steps, so bring sturdy footwear. The car park by the path is small; leave the motorhome in Bermeo if possible.
4Stage 4: Bermeo to Bilbao (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Bermeo take the BI-631 via Mungia to Bilbao; from Mungia it is built as an autovía. The approach into the city is congested at rush hour. About 45 minutes with a clear road.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Guggenheim Museum Bilbao on the bank of the Ría, with the giant dog “Puppy” and the sculpture “Maman” in front.
- Casco Viejo: the seven streets of the old town with the Mercado de la Ribera and pintxo bars.
- Puente de Vizcaya (Puente Colgante) between Portugalete and Getxo: transporter bridge on the World Heritage List, which can be crossed on foot or by gondola.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Bilbao offers, with Kobeta autokarabanen parkea (about 80 places according to OpenStreetMap), a large motorhome site above the city with a city bus stop next door; according to the operator, the length of stay is limited to a few days and the site is closed during festival periods (in 2026 late June to mid-July). There are also smaller options such as the motorhome pitch in Zamudio (about 16 places). Check the conditions in advance. For the coast near Sopelana, OSM lists Camping Sopelana and a car park for motorhomes.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Bilbao and the surrounding area, overnighting on the city’s streets and car parks makes no sense: checks are frequent, and many areas carry prohibition signs. The low-emission zone (ZBE) in the Abando district is in force on weekdays; vehicles without an emissions sticker and with sticker B may not enter, and foreign vehicles must register, according to the city – check the current status with the city before travelling.
- Insider tip for campers
- Do not take the camper into the city centre: travel in by metro and tram from the motorhome site or from the surrounding area. Multi-storey car parks in the centre have height restrictions. For Portugalete/Getxo the Bilbao metro is the best choice.
5Stage 5: Bilbao to Vitoria-Gasteiz (approx. 65 km)
- The drive
- From Bilbao take the AP-68 (toll) or the free N-240 over the Barazar pass to Vitoria-Gasteiz. The N-240 is slower but toll-free. About 1 to 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Vitoria-Gasteiz: Plaza de la Virgen Blanca and the late Gothic old town on the hill with the cathedral of Santa María.
- Anillo Verde: the green belt around the city with cycling and walking paths; Vitoria-Gasteiz was European Green Capital in 2012.
- Salinas de Añana: the salt valley with the terraces of salt production, west of Vitoria, as a detour.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Área de Lakua in Vitoria-Gasteiz (about 48 places in OSM), municipal motorhome site; according to city information from 2024, with booking and payment via the PVerde app and a maximum stay of 72 hours. Check the fee and conditions with the city in advance. For Salinas de Añana, OSM lists a motorhome site.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Overnighting on the streets of Vitoria makes no sense; the city has its own motorhome site. In the old town a low-emission zone with camera monitoring has applied since 15 September 2025 (no entry without an emissions sticker).
- Insider tip for campers
- The old town is largely traffic-free and easy to reach by bike or on foot. Vitoria is the centre of Basque cuisine; market days in the morning are worthwhile. Fill up with fuel in advance before continuing to Rioja.
6Stage 6: Vitoria-Gasteiz to Laguardia (Rioja Alavesa) (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- From Vitoria head south across the plain of Álava, then down over the Sierra de Cantabria into Rioja Alavesa to Laguardia. The climb to the sierra has hairpins, and the last kilometres are well built; a good hour. Choose the route (Ebro route or mountain crossing) according to the weather and the size of your vehicle.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Laguardia: ring of walls on the hill, the church of Santa María de los Reyes with its portal, wine cellars beneath the houses.
- Bodega Ysios (architect Santiago Calatrava) and bodegas on the edge of the town: tours mostly by registration only.
- Viewpoint at the Puerto de Herrera or Sierra de Cantabria: view over the vineyards to the Ebro.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: For Laguardia itself, please ask in advance about a motorhome pitch or campsite at the Rioja Alavesa tourist office. The Rioja Alavesa tourism website lists motorhome car parks in Labastida and Elciego; in Labastida a maximum of 48 hours is allowed according to the town of Vitoria, and tables and chairs are not permitted there. During the grape harvest in September and October demand is high.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Rioja Alavesa there is no right to camp freely; overnighting at the roadside and on vineyard tracks is generally not permitted. Vineyard tracks belong to the winegrowers – do not drive on them.
- Insider tip for campers
- Bodegas almost always require appointments in advance – book early for September/October. The lanes of Laguardia are narrow, so park on the edge of the town. Appoint a driver: the alcohol limit is 0.5 ‰, and checks are carried out in Spain.
7Stage 7: Laguardia to Logroño (via Elciego) (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Laguardia via Elciego and the side roads of Rioja Alavesa to the Ebro, then via Fuenmayor to Logroño. A short stage on regional roads; under an hour without stops, a day with bodega visits.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Elciego: Marqués de Riscal winery with the building by Frank Gehry, plus the old town above the Ebro.
- Logroño: old town with Calle del Laurel and Calle San Juan, the well-known pintxo streets.
- Cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda and the Camino de Santiago, which runs through the city.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Área de autocaravanas Elciego (near the town centre, also mentioned on the Rioja Alavesa tourism website); in Logroño the Área de Autocaravanas de Logroño (according to OSM) as well as Camping Navarrete and Camping de Fuenmayor in the surrounding area (Fuenmayor open all year according to the operator). Check opening times, fee and maximum stay on site.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): As throughout La Rioja, wild camping is not permitted; car parks in the towns are checked. For Logroño, better choose the designated motorhome site; the low-emission zone in the city centre (area from Madre de Dios to Avenida de la Paz) was due to start in 2026 – check the current status in advance.
- Insider tip for campers
- During the day Calle del Laurel is overcrowded; go on the pintxo tour after 8 pm or from midday. Do not park in the old town (pedestrian zone), but at the motorhome site or use the bus.
8Stage 8: Logroño to San Millán de la Cogolla (via Haro) (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- From Logroño take the N-232 or the AP-68 (toll) to Haro, then via Casalarreina and Badarán to San Millán de la Cogolla (about 38 kilometres from Haro). First a wide road in the Ebro valley; the last stretch to the monasteries is narrower and twisty. About 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Haro: Barrio de la Estación with the historic bodegas of López de Heredia, CVNE, Muga and La Rioja Alta; old town with the Plaza de la Paz.
- Monasterio de Yuso: monastery with ivory carvings, UNESCO World Heritage; visit with a guide.
- Monasterio de Suso: older hermitage with the Glosas Emilianenses, the earliest written evidence of Spanish; visit with a guide.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping de Haro in Haro (Avenida de Miranda, open from late January to early December according to the portal). Near San Millán is Camping Berceo in the neighbouring village of Berceo; check opening times, facilities and season in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the area around the monasteries and in the Sierra de la Demanda wild camping is not permitted; avoid open fires in the countryside. In the town of Haro and in San Millán overnighting outside designated places is not intended.
- Insider tip for campers
- Yuso and Suso are visited separately and should be reserved in advance (Suso: day and time, visit with a guide); check opening times and ticket rules on site and online. Private vehicles may not drive to Suso; the trip is by shuttle from Yuso. On 29 June the Wine Battle takes place in Haro – places are then scarce.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Spain distinguishes between “pernocta” (sleeping in a properly parked vehicle) and “acampada” (awning, table, chairs, levelling supports, grey water): the former is generally allowed where parking is allowed, the latter is prohibited. Municipalities and regions may restrict this by ordinance.
- The Basque Country (Euskadi) and Rioja regulate camping strictly: outside campsites and designated areas camping is not intended, and many coastal municipalities, nature reserves and biosphere reserves (Urdaibai) prohibit or monitor overnighting. The exact legal situation differs from municipality to municipality – check signs and municipal websites.
- Fines and towing are possible; if in doubt, rather move to a campsite or a designated motorhome site.
- Helpful apps: park4night, Campercontact, Áreas AC, Camping-Car Park. Check user reports for up-to-dateness.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service and waste disposal is called “área de autocaravanas” or “punto de vaciado”; many stations charge a fee, often by coin machine or app. Empty grey water and the cassette only at the station.
- Tap water in villages and towns is mostly drinkable; look for “agua potable”.
- Gas: Spanish cylinders (for example Repsol) are exchanged only in the country; German cylinders cannot be exchanged or refilled. You fill refillable cylinders or gas tanks at LPG filling stations, often with a dish adapter; check the adapter before the trip.
- Fill up with fuel and shop in Bilbao, Vitoria and Logroño; in the wine villages of Rioja Alavesa the choice is small.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 120 km/h on motorways and autovías; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas, 90 km/h on motorways. Caravan combinations 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 90 km/h on motorways. In built-up areas 30 km/h applies on roads with one lane in each direction, otherwise 50 km/h.
- Since 1 January 2026 the connected V16 warning light has been mandatory for vehicles registered in Spain. For foreign vehicles, according to the DGT, the warning triangle under the law of the home country is sufficient; the high-visibility vest is part of this when leaving the vehicle on the road.
- Low-emission zones (ZBE): Donostia (since December 2024), Bilbao (Abando district) and Vitoria-Gasteiz (old town, since 15 September 2025) monitor by camera according to the DGT emissions sticker; vehicles without a sticker are excluded, in Bilbao also sticker B. Logroño plans its zone for 2026. Check the current status with the city before travelling.
- Tolls: AP-8 (Irun–Bilbao) and AP-68 (Bilbao–Vitoria–Logroño) are toll roads; alternatively the N-634 and N-240 without tolls. The A-8 west of Bilbao is free. In Álava the AP-68 concession expires in November 2026; according to press reports the toll remains; check the conditions in advance.
- Alcohol 0.5 ‰; using a mobile phone at the wheel is prohibited. In autumn it can rain on the coast; mountain roads and the Sierra de Cantabria in winter with chains or winter tyres.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Warning triangle and high-visibility vest – for foreign vehicles the law of the home country applies; the connected V16 requirement applies since 2026 to vehicles registered in Spain.
- Spanish gas adapter or propane refillable cylinder with dish adapter – German cylinders cannot be exchanged.
- Rain jacket and waterproof shoes – Atlantic weather with sudden rain, plus sturdy shoes for the flysch walk and the steps to Gaztelugatxe.
- Tide table or app – the flysch at Zumaia can be walked safely only as the water goes out.
- Reservations for winery tours, monasteries and (on reservation days) Gaztelugatxe – without an appointment there is often no entry.
- Folding bike or bike hire for city visits – Bilbao, Vitoria and Logroño are easy to reach by bike from the motorhome site.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
