Navarre Pyrenees: gorges, the Irati forest and Roncesvalles

Route description

Leave Pamplona east on the A-21 and turn off for Lumbier, about 45 km. The Foz de Lumbier is an easy flat walk along an old railway bed through two tunnels; bring a torch for the longer one. From Lumbier the NA-178 heads north up the Salazar valley. Further north, stop at the Foz de Arbayún viewpoint near the Iso pass, where griffon vultures nest in the cliffs below the road.

The NA-178 continues past stone villages to Ochagavía, with its medieval bridge, stone houses and a forest visitor centre. From here a narrow paved road climbs over the hills to the Casas de Irati, at the heart of the Irati forest. In season there is a parking charge. Easy trails lead to the Irabia reservoir and the Cascada del Cubo waterfall, and the forest is at its finest in October.

Back at Ochagavía, cross west through the Aezkoa valley to Burguete, then turn north on the N-135 to Roncesvalles, the first stop in Spain on the Camino Francés, with a Gothic collegiate church and the pilgrims’ hostel. From here the N-135 goes over the Ibañeta pass towards France; instead return south and cross the Belate pass on the N-121-A, then turn off on the N-121-B into the green Baztan valley.

Elizondo is the main town of the Baztan valley, with fine stone manor houses along the river. From there a minor road leads north via Urdax to Zugarramurdi, right by the French border, where you can walk through the witches’ cave and visit the witch museum. To reach San Sebastián, rejoin the N-121-A and follow it north through Bera to Irún, or go via France along the coast, about 70 km.