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DN17

Bicaz Gorges and the painted monasteries of Bucovina

From Piatra Neamț through the Bicaz Gorges and Lacu Roșu to Neamț Citadel and the painted monasteries of Voroneț, Humor, Moldovița and Sucevița.

Distance
312 km (194 mi)
Driving
4 h 18 min
Suggested days
5
Stops
9
Countries
Romania
Updated
June 4, 2026

At a glance: 5-day road trip of about 312 km (194 mi) with 9 stops, from Piatra Neamț to Suceava. About 4 h 18 min of driving in total.

More road trips in Romania

Route description

Leave Piatra Neamț west on the DN15 along the Bistrița to Bicaz and its dam across Lake Izvorul Muntelui. Then turn onto the DN12C into the Bicaz Gorges, where the road squeezes between limestone walls several hundred metres high. The tightest section is called the Neck of Hell. Stop only in the lay-bys, as trucks use this road too.

At the top of the gorges lies Lacu Roșu, a lake formed in 1837 by a landslide, with the stumps of drowned trees standing in the water. Walk the shore or take a rowing boat. Then return through the gorges and drive north past Bicaz and the monasteries of Agapia and Văratec to Târgu Neamț, where Neamț Citadel stands on a wooded ridge.

Continue north via Fălticeni to Gura Humorului, the best base for the painted monasteries of Bucovina, all listed by UNESCO. Voroneț, just south of town, is famous for its deep blue Last Judgement. Humor, a few kilometres north, has red-toned frescoes. From there, the road west over the hills leads to Moldovița, with its yellow and blue walls behind strong fortifications.

From Moldovița, a scenic road climbs over the Ciumârna pass to Sucevița, the largest of the monasteries, with its Ladder of Virtues on the north wall. End in Suceava, about 50 km east, where the ruined fortress of Stephen the Great overlooks the city. Dress modestly at the monasteries, with covered shoulders and knees; small fees are charged for photography.

Stop-by-stop itinerary

In driving order. Distances are estimates between consecutive stops.

  1. 1

    Piatra Neamț

    Romania
    Start
  2. 2

    Bicaz Gorges

    NatureBicaz-Chei, Romania

    A narrow limestone gorge where the DN12C road squeezes beneath overhanging cliffs several hundred metres high. The tightest part is called the Neck of Hell; stop only in the lay-bys, as the road is busy.

    54 km
  3. 3

    Lacu Roșu

    NatureLacu Roșu, Romania

    A lake formed in 1837 when a landslide dammed the valley, with the stumps of drowned trees still sticking out of the water. Walk the shore path or rent a rowing boat; car parks by the resort.

    5 km
  4. 4

    Neamț Citadel

    HistoryTârgu Neamț, Romania

    A 14th-century fortress on a wooded ridge above Târgu Neamț, strengthened by Stephen the Great and reached over a long arched bridge. Park below and walk up the short paved path.

    78 km
  5. 5

    Voroneț Monastery

    HistoryGura Humorului, Romania

    The best known of the painted churches of Bucovina, founded in 1488, whose Last Judgement on the west wall is painted in a deep blue. A UNESCO site; dress modestly and go early to avoid the tour groups.

    61 km
  6. 6

    Humor Monastery

    HistoryMănăstirea Humorului, Romania

    A painted church from 1530 with red-toned outer frescoes, including the Siege of Constantinople, inside a walled courtyard. It is a few kilometres north of Gura Humorului and much quieter than Voroneț.

    11 km
  7. 7

    Moldovița Monastery

    HistoryVatra Moldoviței, Romania

    A painted church of 1532 inside strong walls, with well-kept exterior frescoes in yellow and blue. It is on the road over the hills from Sucevița; parking is by the gate.

    27 km
  8. 8

    Sucevița Monastery

    HistorySucevița, Romania

    The largest of the painted monasteries, a fortified complex from the late 16th century whose north wall shows the Ladder of Virtues. The road from Moldovița crosses a scenic pass with a viewpoint.

    21 km
  9. 9

    Suceava

    Romania
    54 km

FAQs

How long is Bicaz Gorges and the painted monasteries of Bucovina?

5-day road trip of about 312 km (194 mi) with 9 stops, from Piatra Neamț to Suceava. About 4 h 18 min of driving in total.

How many days do you need for Bicaz Gorges and the painted monasteries of Bucovina?

We suggest 5 days: about 4 h 18 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

Where does Bicaz Gorges and the painted monasteries of Bucovina start and end?

It starts in Piatra Neamț and ends in Suceava.

Which countries does Bicaz Gorges and the painted monasteries of Bucovina pass through?

Romania.